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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green Fratello
Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta Sep 4, 2024

Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green

We were all quite excited here at Fratello when Longines announced a new 39mm version of the Legend Diver last November. Not only did we love the new dimensions, but the omittance of the date was also met with applause here. With a denim-like blue and a black version on offer, something told us more […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Legend Diver Goes Terracotta, Gray, And Green to read the full article.

Can I Swim With My Omega Speedmaster Professional? Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional? Every once Sep 3, 2024

Can I Swim With My Omega Speedmaster Professional?

Every once in a while, we see comments and questions on the Speedmaster that need to be addressed. One of them is about the water resistance of the Speedmaster. It’s often mocked for the lack of water resistance, but what many don’t seem to know is that, according to Omega, it’s safe to swim while […] Visit Can I Swim With My Omega Speedmaster Professional? to read the full article.

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Sep 2, 2024

The Breathtaking Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

One of the things I will absolutely never tire of when it comes to attending watch shows like Watches & Wonders and Geneva Watch Days is the opportunity to handle watches that would be simply impossible to view at any other time. These events are important for networking purposes and to see and learn about new releases from mass market brands as early as possible so we can share them with our readers, but let’s be honest: even the “rare” watches from brands that are part of the big luxury groups are relatively easy to see if you’re in New York City and connected to the watch media or collector world. But there are some watches that when they’re brought out, you understand immediately that you’re probably getting your one, last look. That’s the impression I got at my Girard-Perregaux meeting when they showed me the La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey.  I saw lots of cool stuff over three very busy and sweaty days taking meetings in the Beau Rivage and other hotels that lack American style air conditioning during Geneva Watch Days, but if you asked me to narrow things down and pick just one watch that is simply the most beautiful object I saw during my time there, the Esmerelda gets my vote. Beauty, as we know, is in the eye of the beholder, so I won’t speak in absolute terms here. It would be perfectly reasonable to prefer the Garrick S3 or the Armin Strom Dual Time Resonance, or virtually any number of other great watches. But the Esmerelda ...

Konstantin Chaykin Claims Title for Thinnest Mechanical Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille outdoing each other Aug 29, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Claims Title for Thinnest Mechanical Watch

The race towards nothingness in ultra-thin watches has picked up in the last years, with brands like Bulgari and Richard Mille outdoing each other in the thinnest-watch stakes. Now Konstantin Chaykin wins the race with his ThinKing, a prototype that comes in at a staggering 1.65 mm in back-to-back thickness - making it the thinnest mechanical timepiece today. Currently the ThinKing is a concept watch in its second prototype stage, constructed and executed by the Moscow-based independent watchmaker, with three pending patents linked to its development.  Initial thoughts While the technical merits are impressive, the watch seems bland on its face, or at least face-on. It appears to be a large, flat piece of steel with a dull finish, sporting twin eye-like registers for the hours and minutes. The ThinKing doesn’t have the visual flair of Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari or Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra. But it is easily recognisable as a Wristmon, the brand’s signature collection of “rolling eye” watches. Since it is only a prototype and the aesthetics are not yet refined for commercial production, the ThinKing’s appearance can be overlooked. The brand name engraved in an arc resembling a smile The ThinKing is absurdly thin at 1.65 mm. This makes it 0.05 mm thinner than the previous record holder for the thinnest mechanical watch, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Mark II. Although imperceptible to the naked eye, the minute reduction is amazing from a technical point...

#TBT A Suspiciously Familiar Pontiac Jumping Chronograph Fratello
Aug 29, 2024

#TBT A Suspiciously Familiar Pontiac Jumping Chronograph

I liked the Pontiac Jumping Chronograph instantly. I remember spotting Pontiac watches multiple times, but I never had an urge to jump on any. So I took this as an opportunity to also look briefly into this sonorous-sounding brand’s history. It took me some time to realize why the Pontiac Jumping got my attention so […] Visit #TBT A Suspiciously Familiar Pontiac Jumping Chronograph to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces a New Blue Black Bay Chronograph on the Eve of Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Aug 28, 2024

Tudor Introduces a New Blue Black Bay Chronograph on the Eve of Geneva Watch Days

The watch world descends upon Geneva this week for Geneva Watch Days, which means new releases, which have been on a slow drip all summer, are suddenly on a more aggressive clip. While several dozen brands are official participants in Geneva Watch Days, like Watches & Wonders, other brands tend to jump in on the fun and coordinate releases and even take meetings outside the official program. Tudor is never one to let an opportunity like this pass, and even though they aren’t officially on the docket, they’ve dropped a new release on the eve of the festivities.  The Black Bay Chronograph “Blue” Boutique Edition is exactly what it says on the tin. Here we have a blue panda rendition of the brand’s premier chronograph model, with a deep blue dial and silvered subdials at 9:00 and 3:00. And yes, availability is said to be limited to “select Tudor boutiques.”  This release comes just a few months after Tudor surprised us with an extremely limited pink edition of the Black Bay Chrono. That watch has proven to be among the most sought after new releases of the year, and while the pink dial is certainly the star, the secret weapon is the inclusion of the fantastic five-link bracelet, which saw it’s debut in the chrono lineup on the pink edition. It’s back for the “Blue” Boutique, and based on Tudor supplied imagery alone, I’m prepared to say this is the correct bracelet for this watch, full stop.  In terms of specs, all the key data is carried over from ...

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration Aug 27, 2024

Zenith Introduces their Third Collaboration with Artist Felipe Pantone

Over the past few years, Zenith’s limited edition releases made in collaboration with Felipe Pantone have been a highlight among the deluge of collaborative limited editions that have become so popular as of late. The Zenith x Pantone pieces tend to feel like little pieces of art, which is appropriate when the collaborate is a visual artist. These collaborations also seem to be right at home within the Defy line, a collection that has embraced a flair for color and the avant-garde as long as it has been in existence. The latest release from the pair is perhaps their most ambitious yet, and marks the first time Pantone has had a hand in a watch in the current Defy Skyline collection.  The Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone takes what is almost certainly the brand’s most exotic Defy and gives it a blast of the chromatic and optical touches that Pantone is known for. The tourbillon, of course, is the literal centerpiece of the design, and the bridge has been refashioned here as a lightning bolt, a motif found throughout Pantone’s work. Its colorful gradient and metallic finish is reminiscent of the finishing that made the first Pantone collaboration such a standout.  While the previous Felipe Pantone collaborations have featured dials that are largely skeletonized, a different approach was taken with the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon. The dial is a large sapphire disc and has been micro-engraved with a pattern of concentric circles. This “moire” effect is anothe...

Introducing: The IFL Watches × Fratello CasiOak “Moonlander” Fratello
Casio ak “Moonlander” Here Aug 27, 2024

Introducing: The IFL Watches × Fratello CasiOak “Moonlander”

Here at Fratello, we have a soft spot for things like G-Shocks, handcraft, and everything related to space exploration. It sounds like a weird combination, but it all came together perfectly well in the IFL Watches × Fratello CasiOak “Moonlander” watch. This video is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings […] Visit Introducing: The IFL Watches × Fratello CasiOak “Moonlander” to read the full article.

Introducing – Four New Blancpain Villeret References with Sunburst Green Dials Monochrome
Blancpain Villeret References Aug 27, 2024

Introducing – Four New Blancpain Villeret References with Sunburst Green Dials

The Villeret Collection of Blancpain comprises the brand’s most classic and elegant timepieces. They offer a wide range of functions, from the basic time-only models to more complex complications like the minute repeater, perpetual calendar, dual-time zone, chronograph, and more. Recognizable by their distinctive double-stepped case design, these watches are a testament to aesthetic excellence. […]

REVIEW: Hands On With The King Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461 WatchAdvice
Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461 Aug 24, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The King Seiko KSK Burgundy – SPB461

We love a watch with colour, so we were happy to go hands-on with the new King Seiko SPB461 with the burgundy “grape” coloured dial for a week. What We Love The burgundy dial pops The bracelet’s look and feel Easy to wear, set, and forget watch What We Don’t The size may be a little small for some wrists Accuracy could be greater at the price point Darker coloured dial adds more light reflection compared to the lighter dials Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 King Seiko in its modern form hasn’t been around all that long. Having been re-launched in 2021 as a limited-edition re-creation of an original design, it was so successful among watch enthusiasts is was then subsequently launched as a regular lineup in 2022. Interestingly, each model in the King Seiko range is based on an original model from 1965, and when you look at the design codes, style, and sizing, you can see these ’60s vibes coming through. The original King Seiko from 1965. When you compare the original to the modern version, coloured dial aside, you can see exactly where all the design cues originated from. We covered a little bit of the history of King Seiko in our Hands On Review of the blue dial King Seiko KS1969 that Sameera wrote a week ago, and if you’ve not read it yet, then I suggest you check it out here. But in a nutshell, King Seiko started in 1961 when Daini Seikosha (Seiko), having concentrated on ladies pieces star...

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen Worn & Wound
Tissot connect Aug 23, 2024

Collector Profile: Finding a Community of Independents with Niels Pedersen

How does a vintage Tissot connect to Felipe Pikullik and some of the watch world’s most exciting and dynamic young independent watchmakers and brands? If you said through Dutch collector Niels Pedersen, you’d be very much on the right track. Take a quick look over at Niels’s Instagram (@nielsmpe) and you’ll be greeted by a genuinely envy-inducing assortment of watches. Even more remarkable? That each and every watch feels totally at home in Niels’s feed, whether he’s posting a one-of-a-kind piece from an under-the-radar indie, or his latest pickup from Seiko. So what does a collector like Niels look for in a watch? Well, it turns out it’s a pretty simple recipe. “Basically, I’m design-driven, so it has to be aesthetically pleasing. So that’s the first… and I want something that’s simple, fixable, and reliable because I’ve been sending watches back and forth to the manufacturer so many times,” he told me. “Design-driven and something that’s reliable, I’d say.”   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Niels Pedersen (@nielsmpe) Just because it’s easy to express doesn’t mean this simple philosophy wasn’t a lesson learned over time. The path that transformed Niels into the collector he is today started at a young age, with a little help from his mother. “When I was a kid, my mom used to travel to Asia all the time for work, and every time she would come home, she would have some kind of knockoff watch, either with Porsche o...

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Citizen Watches Fratello
Citizen Watches Another Friday another Aug 23, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Citizen Watches

Another Friday, another list! Last week, we concluded our series of articles covering the best watches of the first half of 2024. Now it’s time to move on to something different. This week, we’ll look at our five favorite currently available Citizen watches. Over the past couple of years, this longstanding Japanese maker has shown […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Citizen Watches to read the full article.

The Seiko 7559-5010: Admiring the Brand’s First Backlit Analog Movement in its Most Unique Form Worn & Wound
Seiko 7559-5010 Admiring Aug 22, 2024

The Seiko 7559-5010: Admiring the Brand’s First Backlit Analog Movement in its Most Unique Form

In this hobby of ours, there constantly exists the urge to dive down new rabbit holes and subgenres of watch collecting, awaiting the next reason for us to open our wallets and find a reason to justify purchasing another piece. While this typically takes the form of a unique color combination or bezel insert, what about a function like backlights? Sure, Timex’s Indiglo has most certainly found mainstay within the watch industry––as has Casio’s Electro Luminesce technology and of course lume––but what others are out there? For those who haven’t had the pleasure, I now have the honor of introducing you to the fairly forgotten Seiko 7559 movement, utilized here in its most unique application: the 5010 model.  A Brief History of the Cal. 7559 and its Applications As is the story with most watches I tend to develop an interest in, little is known about the design process behind this movement or model outside of repair manuals, blog posts, and owner photographs. The information included here is based on my own research, and I invite anyone interested in this model or movement to include any additional material they may know in the comments section below. Though I’ve attempted to collect as much information on the subject as possible, I would be delighted to hear that more pictures or materials of any kind exist elsewhere.  Production of the cal. 7559 began somewhere in the summer months of 1978 and continued until the late 1980s. The quartz movement itself is a...

Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Wishes And Predictions Fratello
Aug 22, 2024

Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Wishes And Predictions

Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! If you’re listening to this latest episode on the day of its release, then Geneva Watch Days 2024 is just a week away. Today, Nacho, Lex, and Thomas gather around the mics to discuss the event and make some wishes and predictions about what they’d like to see from […] Visit Fratello Talks: Geneva Watch Days 2024 - Wishes And Predictions to read the full article.

Unimatic Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Unimatic Aug 21, 2024

Unimatic Watches Guide

Like so many of the modern breed of start-up, independent watchmaking companies, Unimatic traces its origin to a pair of friends with a shared passion for timepieces and an entrepreneurial spirit. Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato met as industrial design students at Politecnico di Milano, Italy’s largest technical university. Moro’s father had been a watch collector, and after designing his first watch as a lark while working at a furniture company, Moro connected with Nunziato to collaborate on the watch that became the Modello Uno U1-A, which launched in 2015 and essentially became the foundation of the Unimatic brand, its name a portmanteau of the Latin “unico” for unique, and “matic,” for willing or able. The Unimatic U1-A from 2015 The U1-A, which quickly sold out, was a classical dive watch with a 40mm round case, a flat, black dial; simple shaped indexes; a black bezel insert with a 60-minute scale and a lumed dot; and a Seiko movement. Its follow-up, the U1-B, was even more streamlined, dropping the minute scale from the bezel. Both the original models set the parameters for every one that followed: each Unimatic watch is pressure-tested to 300 meters of water resistance and designed and cased in Italy; each watch is individually numbered, and the design ethos driving them all is a function-forward, tool-oriented aesthetic. Today, Unimatic watches comprise dozens of models and include not only the divers that brought the brand to the table but also fie...

Introducing – The Complex Urwerk EMC Gets A Stealthy SR-71 ‘Blackbird’ Makeover Monochrome
Urwerk EMC Gets Aug 21, 2024

Introducing – The Complex Urwerk EMC Gets A Stealthy SR-71 ‘Blackbird’ Makeover

Flying higher, longer and faster than any aircraft that came before it, the Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird is a legendary marvel of engineering. So much so, that it still inspires people to this day. People like Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, the gifted duo behind the hyper-technical independent watchmaker Urwerk. Their latest is the EMC SR-71, […]

Speedy Tuesday: Unraveling The Mysteries Of My Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White Fratello
Omega Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White Aug 20, 2024

Speedy Tuesday: Unraveling The Mysteries Of My Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White

Owning a vintage watch can be an enriching experience. It can also be frustrating and unforgiving when someone brings up an issue or inconsistency. Today’s story is positive, but there were instances of concern. Thankfully, luck entered the picture and produced a happy ending with this Omega Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White. First, it’s important to […] Visit Speedy Tuesday: Unraveling The Mysteries Of My Speedmaster 105.003-65 Ed White to read the full article.

Introducing: The Ming 20.01 Series 3 In Rose Gold Fratello
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Introducing: The Ming 20.01 Series 3 In Rose Gold

It’s easy to fall in love with the dials in Ming’s watches. They’re often multilayered and offer unique material applications. The brand’s use of luminescent materials and simple, modern designs has me wondering what’s next after each release. Today’s 20.01 Series 3 delivers the answer, and this might be my favorite look yet. We’ve discussed […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 20.01 Series 3 In Rose Gold to read the full article.