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Tokyo 2021: 6 of the most compelling Japanese Watches for your consideration
In this week's article, we travel to Japan and take a look at six incredible Japanese watches, some of which are hidden gems within the scene.
Results for Lug-to-Lug
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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)
Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.
Wiki · Guide
Lug-to-Lug
The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
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SJX Watches
Recommended Reading: Visiting with Remy Cools
A specialist retailer of independent watchmaking, Watch4moi recently published its first feature article – and it’s worth a look. Watch4moi founder Shawn Mehta paid a visit to Remy Cools, the 20-something French watchmaker who made his debut last year with a tourbillon of his own creation. Now based in Annecy, a town in France just an hour from Geneva by car, Mr Cools is in the process of finishing his first batch of wristwatches, with much of the work being done the old-fashioned way, with manual tools. The Remy Cools Tourbillon Souscription. Image – Remy Cools Mr Mehta took a look at the machines, processes, and craft that go into one of Mr Cools’ tourbillons, the first of which will reach clients later this year. He describes, for instance, the process of finishing the raw wheels Mr Cools obtains from a supplier: first the teeth are cut individually on a lathe, followed by a dozen or so hours of hand finishing. Read the story on Watch4moi.com.
Time+Tide
Until we get more Oysterflex, these are our preferred Rolex rubber strap options on the market
Like Romeo and Juliet, the Rolex Submariner and the Oysterflex bracelet were meant to be together. The iconic diver’s watch and (probably) the world’s best rubber strap are the beautiful couple never allowed to marry due to draconian family rules. So what are the DIY alternatives to speed up this matrimony? After all, despite what … ContinuedThe post Until we get more Oysterflex, these are our preferred Rolex rubber strap options on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Olympic Wristwatch Stories In Honor Of Tokyo 2020
Sports fans, ahoy! The Olympic Games have just started, making it a perfect time to look back on a few Olympic-sized sports-and-watch stories. The Olympic Games are always a fun focus time for watch sponsorships, and Elizabeth Doerr loves to keep an eye on what athletes might potentially be wearing. Here are some from past games.
Time+Tide
WATCHSPOTTING: A recovering Conor McGregor and a pre-show Biebs are making 36mm gold Rolex great again
It’s been nearly two weeks since The Notorious MMA, Conor McGregor, suffered a gruesome leg injury at UFC 264. After a successful three and a half hour surgery, you may have expected him to be bed-ridden, quietly recovering at home. Well, you’d be wrong. Properly wrong. Here is Conor living the Cabana life with Justin … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: A recovering Conor McGregor and a pre-show Biebs are making 36mm gold Rolex great again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
“I lost my grandad’s Rolex. Can I replace it with a knock-off?”
“Moral Money” is a page in the British newspaper, The Telegraph that’s a bit like an Agony Aunt for the financially vexed. Readers submit their monetary dilemmas and then experts weigh up their best course of action. This week’s head-scratcher was a particularly curly one. A desperate reader called KB from Manchester wrote in to … ContinuedThe post “I lost my grandad’s Rolex. Can I replace it with a knock-off?” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki
At this stage in my collection I look for variety. Truth be told, I have already ticked a lot boxes: a stainless-steel professional Rolex, a high-horology watch with exquisite hand-finishing, divers, GMTs, chronographs etc, so it is hard for me to justify buying more and more of the same. One example: I love the new … ContinuedThe post OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Limited Edition
The movement is obviously a huge aspect of any timepiece and something you should look into at length. It is, after all, the heart of a watch and what makes it, quite literally, tick. But I think, if we are all being honest about what draws us to a particular watch, the external looks that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches?
In soccer, sorry football, players can make obscene sums of money and like any superstar athletes use their salaries to acquire some very expensive timepieces. With the UEFA 2020 tournament reaching its climax this weekend, we will finally have a winner after the tournament was delayed for a year due to COVID. But as watch … ContinuedThe post The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther: Fun Or Fail? (Video)
Can a serious watch manufacture get away with producing such a “gimmicky” timepiece as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther? Serious and gimmicky are not mutually exclusive, but they were posed as two different questions in the same breath by Marc André Deschoux of The Watches TV in a special video taking a look at the first timepiece to emerge from the collaborative energy between Audemars Piguet and Marvel Studios. What's your opinion?
Deployant
The two hand watch: We make six recommendations for the essence of a dress watch
In this week's article, we take a look at some two-hand dress watches that are extraordinary with some nice designs and incredible touches to it.
Quill & Pad
RGM Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel: Traditional Timelessness Bridging Past, Present, And Future - Reprise
When brands look to the past to find the absolute best details to combine into a killer timepiece, the result can be a terrific diver, a classy chronograph, or, in the case of American watchmaking company RGM, a fantastic pocket watch-inspired, enamel-dialed wristwatch like the Pennsylvania Series 801 Classic Enamel. Joshua Munchow feels this watch stands apart as a culmination of the brand's ideology.
Time+Tide
Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser
One debate that continues to rage within the watch community is whether or not sports models are considered kosher with formalwear. On the one hand, the suave spy James Bond popularised the dynamic, wearing watches like the Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster with a tuxedo. But the question remains whether or not the combination truly … ContinuedThe post Adrien Brody proves sporty and elegant are not mutually exclusive with an IWC Portugieser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon
An inventive watchmaker based in Russia, Konstantin Chaykin has combined two of his most notable timepieces to create a unique wristwatch for Only Watch 2021. Bearing a face that resembles his signature Joker, the Martian Tourbillon tells the time on Mars, just like the Mars Conquerer he debuted last year. More intriguingly, the watch is equipped with a tourbillon regulator that makes one revolution every Martian minute – or 61.65 seconds. Initial thoughts Konstantin never fails to impress with his unorthodox approach to watchmaking. The Martian Tourbillon lives up to that reputation. It is quirky, odd, and thoroughly interesting. Given that it indicates time on Mars, its utility here on Earth will be limited, but the Martian Tourbillon encapsulates Konstantin’s versatile and comprehensive approach to a unique timepiece for Only Watch (which was very much the case for his 2019 creation). The Martian Tourbillon even incorporates a literal Martian tourbillon regulator, while having a case made of medieval Russian steel. The only images available of the watch for now are renderings, but I very much look forward to seeing this in person. Martian face The face of the watch indicates the hours on the left sub-dial, while minutes are within the right sub-dial. Just below the “nose” is a half-month indicator for the Darian calendar, invented by aerospace engineer Thomas Gangale for future human colonisers of the Red Planet. And the “smile” indicates sols, or Martian...
SJX Watches
Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”
F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...
Time+Tide
A Chrome Hearts Rolex? What the hell did Drake just gift Lil Baby?
Rolex is known for what I like to call robust elegance, designs built on the classic Oyster Perpetual format that manage to be both dressy and sporty at the same time. So when I saw reports that Drake had gifted Lil Baby a Chrome Hearts Rolex watch I was immediately confounded by its aesthetic. Admittedly, … ContinuedThe post A Chrome Hearts Rolex? What the hell did Drake just gift Lil Baby? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Pierce Brosnan really loves a dress watch and is fed up of Bond
Getting frustrated wondering if you’ll ever get to see the endlessly delayed new James Bond film, No Time To Die? Well, count yourself lucky that you’re not Pierce Brosnan. The actor who stepped into 007’s shoes to play Bond from 1995 to 2002, admitted last week that he’s fed up of getting quizzed as to … ContinuedThe post Pierce Brosnan really loves a dress watch and is fed up of Bond appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Next-Generation El Primero A386
Though Zenith celebrated the 50th anniversary of its iconic chronograph movement in 2019, it took a while longer for the long-awaited successor to the original El Primero. Looking like yet another remake on the surface – the design is almost a dead ringer for the A386 of 1969 – the retro styling of the new Chronomaster Original belies the latest-generation El Primero, the all-new cal. 3600 that boasts a lightning seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Chronomaster Original essentially repackages the vintage A386, preserving the distinctive design while installing a modern movement. As a result, the watch is familiar and appealing in broad strokes, but has a few surprises in its details. Take the dials for instance, which are offered in two guises. One is the traditional “tri-colour” from 1969, while the other is an unusual and gorgeous “panda” dial that stands out from its counterparts. Ironically, the black-and-silver dial looks more retro, in part due to the faux-vintage lume, despite not having the original colour palette. The case is a compact 38 mm, identical to the vintage original. It’s heartening – but surprising – to see the return of the 38 mm case, which was ostensibly retired not too long ago. The move back to the 38 mm case makes sense, since it accommodates enthusiasts who prefer a size true to the vintage original, as well as catering to prevailing fad for classical, elegant style. Despite the case being the same diameter as it was in 1969, t...
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Presage Studio Ghibli with an Enamel Dial
Seiko has long incorporated Japan’s unique pop culture into its watches – from Gundam to Street Fighter – and now it’s turned to the legendary anime film studio behind hits like Spirited Away. The Presage Studio Ghibli Castle In The Sky is inspired by the 1986 anime film about a pair of children protecting a magic crystal from government agents. Despite the cartoon inspiration, the new Presage has a classical design with Breguet hands, a fired-enamel dial – and no date window. Initial thoughts The Castle in the Sky edition gets a few things right. It combines a few specialties of Seiko – the fired enamel dial, Japanese pop culture, and a modern, workhorse movement – all for under US$1,500. That said, the mid-range price is novel for a collaborative model in this vein, since the brand’s earlier crossover editions were either priced substantially higher (as a Grand Seiko) or lower (a Seiko 5). Also notable is the no-date dial. While Seiko has long offered enamel dials in affordable watches, it usually installs a date function on the three-hand models, perhaps a concession to the brand’s focus on fuss-free practicality for its watches. Leaving out the date is not only significant from a philosophical standpoint – perhaps it’s an admission the design matters more than its utility – but the omission of a date aperture makes for a higher quality look. The date window never looked good, especially since the aperture revealed the relatively rough edges...
Quill & Pad
Deeper, Further, Faster: Why Some Dive Watches Have Helium Escape Valves - Reprise
Humans have long had a fascination with the depths of the ocean, striving to go ever deeper, ever further, and ever faster by pushing the limits of the human body, technology, and advancing modern science. But like all things, we are often faced with limits. Enter the helium escape valve.
Time+Tide
Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more?
Just like the Fast and Furious franchise, the Baselworld watch fair is refusing to die. That’s right, Baselworld 2022 is back, but it’s unlikely to be better than ever, or even a shadow of its former self. If you’re just joining the story now, it’s important you know the history behind the slow and agonising … ContinuedThe post Baselworld 2022 is back, but does anyone care any more? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Father time: Our dads and their watches
Editor’s note: To celebrate Father’s Day in the northern hemisphere we asked three Time+Tide writers to reflect on their father’s watches. None of them are particularly flashy or valuable. Yet each watch offers an intimate clue into the men behind them, commanding a special resonance for each writer on that basis alone. Luke Benedictus My … ContinuedThe post Father time: Our dads and their watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection
There’s a fresh breeze blowing through the world of watch design and floating on that breeze like a clump of gossamer goodness is Oris’ latest confection: the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. The case is the familiar and popular Divers Sixty-Five bronze, clocking in at a versatile 38mm across, domed sapphire crystal, rated to 100 metres and with a stainless steel caseback concealing the automatic calibre Oris 733 inside. The dial comes in three super sweet flavours, complemented by the use of bronze for the case and bracelet. What remains to be seen is how bronze - famous for how it tends to patina - will interplay with the dial. Will a hint of verdigris make the dials seem that much more delicious? Only time will tell.
SJX Watches
Living With: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda”
Tudor was founded in 1946 expressly to offer good value, specifically, its founder Hans Wilsdorf (who’s better known to establish Rolex) wanted Tudor watches to offer the trademark dependability of its bigger brother, but at a more accessible price. Seventy-five years later that remains true, with watches like the Black Bay 58 being amongst the best dive watches in its price segment. When I covered the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” at its launch earlier in the year, I wrote it is “likely the best-value sports chronograph one can find under US$5,000”. So I naturally jumped at the opportunity to test drive the watch for a week. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Chrono “Panda” is, on its face, a more accessible alternative to the Rolex Daytona, now virtually impossible to get at retail. The similarities between the two are obvious: a “Panda” dial with one line of red text, screw-down pushers, and a black tachymetre bezel. Yet to simply pigeonhole the Black Bay Chrono “Panda” as a more affordable Daytona would do it a disservice. The Black Bay Chrono possesses enough character to stand on its own. It’s instantly recognisable as a Tudor with the signature “snowflake” hands matched with round indices. Though the new Black Bay Chrono is near identical visually to the first-generation model, it has been refined with a slightly thinner case. Nevertheless, the watch is still relatively thick on the wrist, slightly beefier than the Breitling Premier B01 wh...
Time+Tide
EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID
The best way to describe 2020 is that it was a black hole. Obviously there were far more serious casualties and situations, but the watch community sorely missed being able to get together and share our love for watches. Fortunately, the rising social media platform Clubhouse filled the void, but as we like to say … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Rado hosts the first brand sponsored meetup in NYC since COVID appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watch vs Wild - Epic photo essay of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic on the wrist in rugged Tasmania
There was a moment during the all-action Tasmanian launch of the Rado Captain Cook in high-tech ceramic that neatly summed up how this launch was different to others. It was an awkward one if I’m completely honest. Because after diving into the six-degree temperature water of a lake at Derby, in the north east of … ContinuedThe post Watch vs Wild – Epic photo essay of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic on the wrist in rugged Tasmania appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
History Of Ferrari Watches: Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari
In this non-chronological multipart series called “History of Ferrari Watches,” Elizabeth Doerr takes us through a comprehensive look into the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari collaboration, which took place between 1993 and 2004 and culminated in the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Tribute to Enzo Ferrari Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges perpetual calendar chronograph.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts on Show in Geneva
Patek Philippe has made it a tradition to stage an annual exhibition of the year’s unique and limited edition watches decorated using fine artisanal techniques, some of which are distinctive to the brand. This year’s Rare Handcrafts Exhibition will take place June 16 to July 3 at its usual venue, the historical Patek Philippe Salon along the ritzy Rue du Rhone, just at the edge of Lake Geneva. The year’s Rare Handcrafts lineup is made up of 75 timepieces, encompassing pocket- and wristwatches as well as clocks – all of which will be on display. But the exhibition will be twice as large, thanks to the 70 timepieces of the 2020 collection that were never showcased as last year’s exhibition was cancelled. And the exhibition will also include some of this year’s newly launched wristwatches. One of this year’s Rare Handcrafts, the pocket watch ref. 995/122J “Panda” decorated with wood marquetry on the back, engraving on the case, and flinqué enamel on the dial Visitors can expect to see a wide-ranging array of traditional decorative techniques on the watches and clocks, including a variety of enamelling methods, such as cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, fauré, miniature and Limoges painting, as well as unusual Longwy enamelling that’s named after the French town where it was invented. Gem-setting and wood marquetry will also be on show. And there will be also be artisans on hand to demonstrate their craft – including enamelling, engraving, marquetry an...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrity watch spotting and a watch designed by the people who’ll wear it
Despite living in Melbourne’s lockdown 4.0, it was another busy week at Time+Tide, where we took a look at a few of the watches of the rich and famous. From Drake and Travis Scott to LVMH founder Bernard Arnault, when you’ve got more money than you can ever possibly spend, what are the watches you … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Celebrity watch spotting and a watch designed by the people who’ll wear it appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!)
Editor’s note: As part of his ongoing column, David thumbs his nose at high horology to rummage through the bargain bin and unearth some mind-boggling bang for your buckaroos. While it may sound like a ski run in the Alps, the Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is actually a rather handsome timepiece with a distinct Bauhaus aesthetic and … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Tapferkeit ‘Furchtlos’ is a Bauhaus beauty for $183(!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.