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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

The Breitling Navitimer Evolves into a No-Frills GMT SJX Watches
Breitling Navitimer Evolves into Apr 1, 2024

The Breitling Navitimer Evolves into a No-Frills GMT

To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling is launching the Navitimer Automatic GMT 41. Zooming into the watch, the signature slide-rule bezel is still present, although this Navitimer omits the chronograph and replaces it with a GMT function. Featuring a 41 mm case in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold, it retains the classic Navitimer style, albeit with a cleaner look without the chronograph sub-dials. Initial Thoughts After revamping the Navitimer in 2022, Breitling gave its trademark aviator’s chronograph more vintage-inspired aesthetics, including more compact cases. Given that the Navitimer is synonymous with the chronograph, it’s not unreasonable to criticise the GMT has having lost some of the spirit of the original. However, I dig the cleaner aesthetics without the pushers and the triple registers. And this is also more affordable. Most Navitimer chronographs are equipped with the in-house B01 movement, resulting in an hefty entry price of US$9,600. The Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 is equipped with an ETA calibre, resulting in a slightly more affordable price that starts at US$6,200 on a stainless steel bracelet. Many other brands in this price bracket now utilise in-house or heavily improved movements, which puts this at a disadvantage in terms of mechanics. That puts it in the middle of the pack for accessible GMT watches: not as affordable as a Longines or the same value proposition as a Tudor, but it has the advantage of the classic Navitimer look th...

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Thor’s Picks From Seiko, Orient, And Farer Fratello
Seiko Orient Mar 29, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Thor’s Picks From Seiko, Orient, And Farer

It may seem like an odd starting point, but with this €1,000 budget, I’m making a concerted effort to put myself in the shoes of a budding watch lover. And to be honest, I have a lot of baggage with my value-driven collecting focus. Seiko watches still represent great value, so one of those will […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Thor’s Picks From Seiko, Orient, And Farer to read the full article.

Introducing: The Orient Star M Collections - A Different Take On Japanese Top-Shelf Horology Fratello
Orient Mar 28, 2024

Introducing: The Orient Star M Collections - A Different Take On Japanese Top-Shelf Horology

If you’re already into watches, Japanese brands have a different design mindset and offer big value. Orient Star is a brand you’ll think of if you’re a seasoned watch geek like me, especially if you actually remember watch forums (ask your dad or an uncle). Most brands have a lot to offer, but with microbrands […] Visit Introducing: The Orient Star M Collections - A Different Take On Japanese Top-Shelf Horology to read the full article.

Breitling Superocean and Superocean Heritage: The Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Mar 27, 2024

Breitling Superocean and Superocean Heritage: The Ultimate Guide

Historically, Breitling is a watchmaker known for two horological specialties: aviation watches and chronographs. In its most famous timepieces, in fact, like the Navitimer and Chronomat, the two genres elegantly merge into an iconic whole. While this is still largely the case today, Breitling has also staked out for itself a successful and impactful niche in the category of dive watches; its robust and stylish Superocean collection, introduced in 1957 during the early heyday of recreational diving, continues to command a large and avid audience today. Now divided into two distinctively different yet historically related families - the Superocean and Superocean Heritage - and offering both three-hand and chronograph models in a steadily growing array of sizes, materials, and colorways, Breitling’s seaworthy fleet offers a sporty option for just about everyone. Here is a brief history of the Superocean and a guide to the modern collection. 1957: Ref. 1004 Diver and Ref. 807 Chronograph The launch of the original Superocean, Breitling’s first purpose-built divers’ watch, in 1957, was timed to commemorate 25 years at the helm of the company for Willy Breitling, the only son of founder Gaston Breitling and the inventor of such enduring classics as the Chronomat and Navitimer. Commercially, it was also driven by the growing popularity of scuba diving as a hobby and the subsequent market desire for wristwatches that could be worn underwater. Several of that genre’s p...

Five Excellent Vintage-Inspired Watches For Modern Collectors Worn & Wound
Mar 27, 2024

Five Excellent Vintage-Inspired Watches For Modern Collectors

It’s hard to overstate the role vintage watches have played in the rise of watch enthusiasm over the last few years. Watch brands continue to tap into their archives as they reimagine yesterday’s hits with today’s modern technology. That combination of classic design with robust engineering is one of the reasons retro-inspired watches continue to be so popular, and today we take a look at five examples of vintage-inspired watches done right. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s hard to overstate the role vintage watches have played in the rise of watch enthusiasm over the last few years. Watch brands continue to tap into their archives as they reimagine yesterday’s hits with today’s modern technology. That combination of classic design with robust engineering is one of the reasons retro-inspired watches continue to be so popular, and today we take a look at five examples of vintage-inspired watches done right. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. The post Five Excellent Vintage-Inspired Watches For Modern Collectors appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers Fratello
Mar 27, 2024

Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers

Dear watch fans, it’s time to take a breather. Just sit back, relax, and listen to the 8-track - and you can do that while listening to Me’shell Ndegéocello’s song “I’m Diggin’ You (Like an Old Soul Record).” The reason I’m writing this is that the fast-paced digital world seems to be taking its toll […] Visit Dear Watch Fans, Pace Yourselves And Beat The FOMO - A Watch Is Not A Pair Of Sneakers to read the full article.

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gear And H2O Fratello
Chronoswiss Mar 26, 2024

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gear And H2O

With Watches and Wonders 2024 just around the corner, it’s time to let the releases begin! Today, we have news of two new Chronoswiss watches. The Strike Two Golden Gear and the Strike Two H2O are meant to pave a new direction for the brand. There’s no denying these are Chronoswiss watches, but look closely, […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Strike Two Golden Gear And H2O to read the full article.

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Daan’s Picks From Baltic, Seiko, Vero, And Autodromo Fratello
Baltic Seiko Vero Mar 22, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Daan’s Picks From Baltic, Seiko, Vero, And Autodromo

As RJ said at the start of his “best watches under €1,000” article, it’s not easy to make a list like this at all. That’s not because there aren’t any options to choose from; actually, the opposite is true. Sure, the fact that they have to be new and available watches limits the range somewhat. […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €1,000 - Daan’s Picks From Baltic, Seiko, Vero, And Autodromo to read the full article.

Five Great Titanium Sports Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Rolex Mar 21, 2024

Five Great Titanium Sports Watches Under $5,000

Sports watches have been produced primarily in stainless steel throughout their history, with the occasional special release of precious metal variants. Recently though, titanium has taken the spotlight as an improved alternative to even high-end stainless steel alloys like 904L used by Rolex. Titanium is touted as lighter, stronger, more corrosion and scratch resistant – but is it aesthetically as attractive as stainless steel? This would depend on personal taste, and it would also come down to many aspects that can only be judged from a watchmaker’s viewpoint. Some watch brands, and specific models of watches from these brands, are going to vary greatly in the quality of titanium they choose and the level of detail and craftsmanship they’re going to dedicate to a titanium sports watch variant. It is indeed possible to make a titanium watch a work of art in its own right in comparison to stainless steel, but it will always have a darker more tool-like luster to it than our favourite tried and true metal. Titanium is also harder to work with, and requires more time and precision to shape into a watch case, bracelet, or even a small part like the crown – with these challenges comes the average watch collector’s largest obstacle: an increased price point.  Someday, if it’s lucky, this titanium could become a watch There’s a few common grades of titanium watchmakers have been working with, with Rolex always setting the premium standard and using a special alloy...

The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Régulateur Tourbillon, Now in Black Worn & Wound
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Mar 21, 2024

The Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Le Régulateur Tourbillon, Now in Black

Years from now, someone will look back on this period and write about rise of affordable independent watchmaking. We are truly in a golden age if you happen to favor small brands who are inclined to do adventurous, experimental things. I wonder if anyone will identify Louis Erard’s collaborations with Alain Silberstein as a defining moment in this era of watch enthusiasm. From my perspective, it certainly seems like this relatively small Swiss brand and niche designer (who many thought, mistakenly, had reached a peak in terms of his popularity and influence) stand at the center of a lot of what’s happening in our world today. Limited edition collaborations, the mixing of the high and low, and a focus on accessible watches that are still undeniably special in some way are a huge focus of what’s driving interest in the hobby right now, and while Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein didn’t get there first, it’s hard to deny that their continued relationship isn’t one of the key stories of the last several years.  That relationship continues this week with the launch of the Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Black. This is the same tourbillon that we saw as part of a limited edition triptych back in October of last year. That watch, and the others in the set, featured an olive green dial, and it was notable that the tourbillon could only be purchased as part of the set, while the other watches were available separately. At the time, the thinkin...

Blancpain Launches 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique Watches In The Regular Collection - Have Your Wishes Been Granted? Fratello
Blancpain Launches 42mm Fifty Fathoms Mar 21, 2024

Blancpain Launches 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique Watches In The Regular Collection - Have Your Wishes Been Granted?

Many fans of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms have been yearning for a non-limited edition in a smaller case - a watch like the 42mm Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 limited edition of last year. Well, steel stays limited, but red gold and titanium iterations are now unlimited, meaning 14 possible variations made their way […] Visit Blancpain Launches 42mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique Watches In The Regular Collection - Have Your Wishes Been Granted? to read the full article.

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - Celebrating The Collection’s 80th Anniversary Fratello
Mido Mar 21, 2024

Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - Celebrating The Collection’s 80th Anniversary

To celebrate the Ocean Star’s 80th anniversary, Mido introduces a new GMT Special Edition. It doesn’t take much inspiration from a specific reference from the past, but it certainly looks inspired by vintage watches. And, just like the other Ocean Star GMT models, it features a so-called “flyer GMT” movement. Even though more and more […] Visit Introducing: The Mido Ocean Star GMT Special Edition - Celebrating The Collection’s 80th Anniversary to read the full article.

How A Colorful Watch Strap Can Lift Your Timepiece Game Fratello
Mar 19, 2024

How A Colorful Watch Strap Can Lift Your Timepiece Game

Watch enthusiasm is often marked with periods of restlessness. A desire to expand a watch collection can lead to either a sense of achievement or sometimes regret. Before taking the plunge, it is also worth considering a colorful watch strap to mix up the look of your existing collection. It could save you thousands. It […] Visit How A Colorful Watch Strap Can Lift Your Timepiece Game to read the full article.

Reinventing The Micro-Rotor: Renaud Tixier Makes A Mechanically Innovative Debut Fratello
Mar 18, 2024

Reinventing The Micro-Rotor: Renaud Tixier Makes A Mechanically Innovative Debut

Some 25 kilometers north of Geneva, on the shore of the city’s eponymous lake, lies the town of Nyon. This is the place that Renaud Tixier, the latest Swiss independent watch brand launching today, calls its home. It’s the latest collaborative effort between Dominique Renaud - the renowned watchmaker and co-founder of Renaud & Papi […] Visit Reinventing The Micro-Rotor: Renaud Tixier Makes A Mechanically Innovative Debut to read the full article.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Sketch” is Back Worn & Wound
Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Sketch” Mar 15, 2024

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Sketch” is Back

Back in 2022, Bulgari released the “Sketch” version of the Octo Finissimo to equal shares of acclaim and, well, the opposite. Those watches celebrated the Octo’s tenth anniversary, and this year they’re doubling down with new sketches that take the idea to the next logical step on the occasion of Bulgari’s 140th anniversary. We like to poke fun at the anniversaries here as a somewhat craven excuse for brands to sell us new stuff that we certainly don’t need, but in the case of the Octo it’s really worth celebrating. This watch has a profoundly unusual design within a subset of watches that grew in esteem by orders of magnitude over the last several years, while existing in a larger context within an industry that put more value on classic, vintage inspired designs than bold, contemporary ones during the same time period. For the Octo to rise during this period was somewhat unpredictable, and speaks to the enduring quality of the design and of the watch itself. The follow up to the original Sketch watches is sure to garner plenty of attention, and would seem to put most of it on the caliber that makes the Octo possible.  Like the first Sketch LEs, the watches seen here are likely to be somewhat divisive. The original watches, both a chronograph and time-only version, had dials that appeared to be sketched by hand. They took the familiar layout of the Octo but presented it in an illustrated format. These new references (time only models in steel and rose gold,...

REVIEW: Hands On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Mar 15, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

IN PARTNERSHIP: Zenith has gone back to their vintage roots with a faithful re-creation of the intended design from the 70’s, and we’ve road-tested it to see if the 1970’s works in 2024! What We Love Vintage styling that doesn’t look out of place todayPracticality of the chronograph and calendar functionsThe subtle green colour that’s not in your face What We Don’t The 38mm size is a touch on the small sideLeather strap could be more detailed to suit the watchThickness when compared to the case size with the raised lugs Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Zenith came out of the blocks strong for 2024 where at LVMH Watch Week in January they went strong on their Chronomaster line. Part of these launches was the re-introduction of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in three colourways, which we covered here. The commentary and feedback from these releases were overall positive, especially amongst the collector community where vintage and sub 40mm pieces are received incredibly well. Just look at the below Instagram post from ChampsG with the comments on this. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) So when we agreed to do this hands on review, I was curious as to how I would like the green boutique edition, as quite frankly it’s not a watch I would generally gravitate towards – the Chronomaster Sport is a little more my style. But that’s what I love about havi...

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Worn & Wound
Venezianico Mar 14, 2024

[VIDEO] Mail Time: Unboxing Watches from Gavox, Venezianico, and Ardio

Here at the Worn & Wound office, watches arrive at our doorstep everyday. So many watches are coming in, not everyone in the office can possibly see all of them. It’s a nice problem to have, and presents an opportunity for members of the team to give us their immediate, honest reactions to new watches they’ve never seen before. In this Surprise Unboxing, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan look at a selection of watches they’ve never seen before, have varying levels of familiarity with, and give you their honest first impressions.  In this episode, Zach Weiss takes a look at a pair of new sports watches from Ardio (recently reviewed by Meg Tocci right here), one of which has a surprisingly detailed textured dial that punches well above its weight class. Zach Kazan struggles with the pronunciation of a diver from Italian brand Venezianico, but is truly impressed by its aventurine dial. And then they look at a pair of watches from Gavox, an old-school microbrand that recently upgraded their Avidiver with a GMT movement.  The post [VIDEO] Mail Time: Unboxing Watches from Gavox, Venezianico, and Ardio appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch Fratello
Mar 13, 2024

Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch

Besides my passions for music and watches, I also greatly love architecture. It takes a unique talent and ability to create buildings that seem like they have an actual soul. But what if you combine architecture and watch design? Does that work? The answer came in the spring of last year. The Lebond Siza explored […] Visit Introducing: The Lebond Souto Moura - An Architect’s Take On The Classic Driver’s Watch to read the full article.