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Cosmograph Daytona Rolex

The Rolex chronograph born on the racetrack. History, references and specs.

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Datejust Rolex

The first self-winding waterproof wristwatch with a date window - and the reference Rolex.

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Submariner Rolex

The 1953 Rolex diver. James Bond's watch and the template every dive watch copies.

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Hans Wilsdorf

Founder of Rolex (1905) and Tudor (1946). Invented the Oyster case and the Perpetual rotor.

Hands-On With the New Rolex Daytona Worn & Wound
Rolex Daytona Change Mar 30, 2023

Hands-On With the New Rolex Daytona

Change is hard, as they say. Particularly when the thing that requires it, wasn’t exactly broken in the first place. Rolex has found themselves in a near impossible situation of updating the near universally lauded 1165XX generation of the Daytona. A watch that’s recently found itself in a position it never really asked to be in, serving as the barometer of the second hand watch market and subsequently the subject of ire to many lamenting availability issues writ large at boutiques the world over. The watch itself, though? When considered at its initial MSRP upon introduction in 2016, which was $12,400 (or even its MSRP last year, which was $13,500), is pretty awesome. Not without fault, certainly, but a mighty fine chronograph to be sure and a total sweetheart on the wrist.  But of course, the Daytona was a rare bird to score at retail pricing, and judging it at aftermarket prices was a far murkier proposition. Still, there’s no doubting that this watch tapped into something deep, serving as the veritable poster child of the meteoric rise of the hype watch, and for good reason: it’s a great all around watch sitting on a load of heritage that includes some of the coolest figures of the past 50 years helping to inadvertently build the watch’s lore to unhealthy levels in today’s climate. While things have mercifully cooled off over the past 12 months, this is still largely the context in which Rolex is tasked with creating a new generation of Daytona, which they...

Rolex Introduces the Daytona Ref. 126500 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Daytona Ref. 126500

For the 60th anniversary of the Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex has given the collection a subtle refresh with both technical and aesthetic improvements. The upgrades are fairly significant considering the outgoing 116500 was only seven years old, having debuted at Baselworld in 2016, and is still one of the most sought-after watches on the market. At launch, there are five key references and 11 total variations. Topping the range is a new platinum model that offers a transparent case back – a first for a Daytona. The platinum model benefits from a transparent caseback and a gold oscillating weight Initial thoughts The outgoing Daytona ref. 116500 was arguably the best chronograph in its category, and inarguably difficult to buy at retail price. Not content with this success, Rolex has made a great watch even better. The upgrades are subtle, but there are numerous changes inside and out. Starting with the dial, the sub-dial rings and dial markers have grown thinner, as has the ceramic bezel which now features a protective outer ring crafted from the same material as the middle case. The new Daytona has a slimmer case, under 12 mm for the first time. Note the gold ring around the edge of the ceramic bezel. Reduced thickness seems to be something of a theme for Rolex this year, and the Daytona is no exception, shedding 0.5 mm for a new total thickness of 11.9 mm. The outgoing Daytona was already quite thin relative to its peers, and the sleeker dimensions of the new model only m...

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Gets Full RLX Titanium Treatment Worn & Wound
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Gets Full Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Gets Full RLX Titanium Treatment

In what may have been the most predicted move by Rolex in years, the use of their newly introduced RLX grade 5 titanium has taken a step into the Yacht-Master collection, something teased years ago by Sir Ben Ainslie in the form of a dateless prototype. We saw the first official use of the material in this Deepsea Challenge Sea-Dweller revealed earlier this year. The latest release welcomes the stuff within the Yacht-Master collection in the new 42mm reference 226627, and a few of the features we noticed in the Sea-Dweller have returned, tipping what may be titanium exclusive details.  Titanium is having some of a moment in recent years. We’ve seen its use spread from small independents and micro-brands like Boldr and Autodromo, now to the likes of Rolex. It may not be as exotic sounding as it once was, but we’re seeing it used in more inventive ways across the board, predominantly in how it’s finished. Just this year, while attending Watches & Wonders, we’ve learned of two particularly high end titanium watches that have had their production experience delays due to the difficult nature of finishing it to a certain standard. The finishing of this particular titanium watch is very Rolex, with relatively uniform satin brush graining throughout the 42mm case and bracelet, with a chamfer running the length of the lug line. That chamfer on the lug is one of the key details we noted on the titanium Deepsea as well, leading one to believe it could become a detail reserv...

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908 Worn & Wound
Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509

Due to its enviable position as the leading Swiss watch brand by revenue, Rolex tends to dominate headlines for even the smallest changes to its collections. So it’s even bigger news when the brand launches an entirely new collection, the Perpetual 1908, as it has on the opening day of this year’s Watches & Wonders. Named for the year that Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex trademark in Switzerland, the Perpetual 1908 is a slim, time-only watch with a display back that signals a renewed focus on the dress watch category for the giant of Geneva. Initial thoughts The Perpetual 1908 is a worthy replacement for the outgoing Cellini collection, which to me always felt like the forgotten child of the Rolex portfolio. Forced to use movements from their sportier siblings, the Cellini watches were never able to achieve the right proportions to be taken seriously as dress watches. The Perpetual 1908 debuts in four references in yellow and white gold, with the option of white or black satin finish dials; the black dials look especially good. The designs are atypical for Rolex, featuring a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, and a new handset. “Superlative Chronometer” drapes over the sub-seconds dial, calling to mind the Rolex Veriflat of the 1950s. Speaking of the Veriflat, the 1908 case measures just 9.5 mm thick thanks to the new cal. 7140. This is a big improvement over the Cellini watches, which were over 12 mm thick. The 1908’s dress watch credentials are bolstered fur...

Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models Time+Tide
Rolex takes off Mar 27, 2023

Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models

The Rolex Sky-Dweller sees three new releases for Watches & Wonders 2023. A brand new blue-green dial colour is a first for any Rolex model. The movement gets an update, too, with the introduction of the calibre 9002. Rolex’s most complicated timepiece, the Sky-Dweller, has dropped three new versions for 2023’s Watches & Wonders, featuring … ContinuedThe post Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone Time+Tide
Rolex reintroduces Mar 27, 2023

Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone

The Rolex GMT-Master II is reintroduced in yellow gold and two-tone for Watches & Wonders 2023. Brand new is a bicolour black and grey Cerachrom bezel. The beloved Jubilee bracelet gets the Midas touch. The Pepsi. The Rootbeer. The Batman. Can I suggest “Goldfinger” as the latest Rolex GMT-Master II variant nickname? Honor Blackman wore … ContinuedThe post Gold rush: Rolex reintroduces the GMT-Master II in solid yellow gold and two-tone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Rolex Redesigns Mar 27, 2023

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary

Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference.  At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40 Worn & Wound
Rolex Milgauss Mar 27, 2023

(Hands-On)The Genta IWC Ingenieur Era Returns With New Automatic 40

The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case.  The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...

The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master Mar 27, 2023

The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium

After much anticipation, Rolex releases the first production Yacht-Master in RLX titanium The 42mm case is totally brushed, save for some wide, polished lug chamfers Powered by the 3235 calibre, the Yacht-Master RLX Titanium has a power reserve of 70 hours First spotted on the wrist of Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex has finally released the … ContinuedThe post The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer 40 showcases Mar 27, 2023

The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case

The discontinuation of the 39mm Rolex Explorer was a surprise, and its 36mm replacement, though a return to original sizing, left many wondering what Rolex had up its sleeves. Naturally, the crown had a plan, and it has now come to light in form of the new Rolex Explorer 40. Its simplicity remains untarnished, offering … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Explorer 40 showcases a new 40mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas Time+Tide
Rolex treats us Mar 27, 2023

Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas

Rolex has finally revealed their new releases for Watches & Wonders 2023, and the Cosmograph Daytona is certainly among the most anticipated. Without further ado, let’s get right into the new features and the five new models that mark the model’s 60th anniversary. The new features The biggest new upgrade to the Daytona line-up is … ContinuedThe post Rolex treats us with FIVE new Daytonas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model Time+Tide
Rolex Air-King Mar 24, 2023

The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model

When you think of Rolex, you don’t exactly think of quirky or unusual watches. Nowadays, the massive brand is known for its simple, surgically measured designs. Only one model remains the odd one out. The Air-King is probably the quirkiest Rolex piece currently in production, along with the Milgauss. It is one of the oldest … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!? Time+Tide
Rolex just leak their own Mar 23, 2023

Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!?

Rolex is notoriously secretive about their releases, keeping their novelties completely under lock and key until the moment the embargo lifts. Sure, people constantly put together prediction videos or claim to have leaks in social media posts. But these often turn out to be figments of the imagination rather than reality. It is quite ironic … ContinuedThe post Did Rolex just leak their own Watches & Wonders 2023 releases?!? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.