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Time+Tide
It’s that time of year where we can look back and be astounded at the sheer quality and quantity of microbrand releases yet again, with our weekly Micro Mondays segment seemingly full to bursting with fantastic options. I have personally written at least 24 of this year’s Micro Mondays reviews, and even among those it’s … ContinuedThe post Our favourite Micro Mondays from 2022: Part 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
How a life of adventure made me look to the funky past via a vintage Aquadive Time-Depth Electronic.
Time+Tide
One Sunday morning, I was sitting on the couch having a New York Times mini-crossword race with my brother. It was a pretty close battle, luck of the prompts really, where he got caught up on one of the clues allowing me to come from behind and complete it before him. But in the silent … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword 2022 recap part one (#1-14) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Erotic watches have long been a controversial topic. Some praise the individuality, artistry and taboo nature of these pieces, impressed by the intricately painted scenes or complex automata depicting them. Others, however, denounce them completely for their tackiness despite the connection to the historical tradition of erotic art – something Luke Benedictus shared his thoughts … ContinuedThe post NSFW! Holiday Hentai from a historic Swiss brand? Merry Christmas, I guess appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
By staying true to its original inspiration, our Revival Of The Year made a statement like no other.
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SJX Watches
A horological influencer in the Middle East, Hassan Akhras is behind the magazine Arab Watch Guide and Arab Watch Club (AWC), a community of collectors in the region. Like other regional clubs, the AWC has its share of limited editions made for its members, with the latest being the Piaget Polo Chronograph “Hope” Arab Watch Club Edition. Made to celebrate the seventh anniversary of the club, the edition is Mr Akhras’ first project with Piaget. Initial thoughts Special editions made for the Middle East usually intrigue me because they often have elements specific to the region, including the familiar Hindu-Arabic numerals on the dial. The Polo “Hope” takes a more subtle approach instead of the more overt styling often found on watches for the region. While the dial is eye-catching in its colour, the Hindu-Arabic numerals are found only on the chronograph registers and date wheel. Aside from the Hindu-Arabic numerals, the palette makes the Polo “Hope” an attractive watch. It’s distinctly different from the variants of the model to date. And even in its original form, the Polo S Chronograph has appealing dimensions at 42 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm in height. It’s a large, sporty watch but slim enough to slip underneath a cuff. Sadly, this timepiece is exclusive to its membership of the Arab Watch Club, and all 30 pieces have been sold out. First of many While Piaget has done limited editions for specific countries, the brand had not teamed up with a c...
Time+Tide
This has been a long year for those of us who write about watches. More than any year I can think of, it has provided what felt like an endless parade of new watch releases. So much so, that it’s easy for a brand or watch to get lost in the shuffle. Before you start … ContinuedThe post The top 3 Alpina releases of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Solid gold watches can be wildly expensive, and this is partly why the consumer base largely focuses on stainless-steel references. But those who are willing to do the leg-work can track down some really interesting vintage gold watches that, in the scope of what they offer, can be had for quite a bargain. As a … ContinuedThe post Gold rush: Three discontinued gold watches you can have for a bargain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This trio of novelties from the Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase collection encompasses the brand’s incredible attention to detail and gem-setting savoir-faire. The first is a more simple, possibly even everyday, piece with a brand new bracelet, touted to fit like a second skin. The other two share a case and dial covered in diamonds, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moon Phase stuns with its diamond-studded designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Hautlence is a brand that has always done things a little differently. And its latest model, the Linear Series 1, is no exception: it features a normal minute display with a jumping hour indication that appears to move in a straight (linear) line. Joshua Munchow dives in for a closer look.
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Quill & Pad
GaryG was unable to attend the November 2022 Geneva watch auctions, but like many of his friends he followed online. Here he takes a look at the results from the “big three” auction houses – Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s – to discern some patterns and provide knowledgeable commentary.
Hodinkee
World timers used to be the realm of the super-wealthy, but brands like Frederique Constant are out to change that.
Time+Tide
As the World Cup gathers momentum in Qatar, FIFA has repeatedly displayed a breathtaking lack of tact and political awareness. The decision by football’s governing body to award the World Cup to Qatar was already wildly contentious even before it was decided the country’s heat required the tournament to be moved to the winter month … ContinuedThe post Did Harry Kane just make a cheeky Rolex protest at the Doha World Cup? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...
SJX Watches
Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...
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SJX Watches
Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...
SJX Watches
With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...
Time+Tide
When you think of iconic Formula 1 liveries, the John Player Special hues of black and gold gracing Lotus’ cars through the ’70s and ’80s must surely come to mind. While the boosted, turbo monsters like Ayrton Senna’s 98T roared the streets of Monaco, Heuer was the name of the game in terms of wristwear. … ContinuedThe post The new TAG Heuer Carrera in yellow gold is a gentleman’s racing chrono appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched to mark 50 years since the original was created by the jeweller’s London workshop, the Cartier Pebble was also perfectly timed to ride the wave of interest in vintage Cartier form watches that began during the pandemic. Looking much like the original but with enough tweaks to set it apart as a modern timepiece, the Pebble reissue is the second commemorative reissue after the Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary from two years ago. With only six large-size Pebbles made by Cartier London in the 1970s, the original Pebble was long a peculiar watch known only to a few Cartier aficionados. The reissue has changed that, but it is a limited edition of only 150 pieces, a small enough number that it will leave some would-be buyers disappointed. Initial thoughts A hair’s larger than the vintage original, the reissue is a smallish watch by modern standards at 36 mm in diameter but feels larger than that due to the form. In fact, 36 mm is probably the largest it can go without changing the shape; any larger and it will resemble a dinner plate. On the wrist it cuts a striking figure and unlike other vintage remakes, the new Pebble might pass for a modern watch thanks to its novel form. Minor adjustment have been made to the design of the reissue that give it a more refined appearance than the original. The Roman numerals, for instance, have tighter lines. The result is a watch that looks thoughtfully designed. Everything about the reissue is executed well, case to dial to cr...
Time+Tide
As a brand of both honoured heritage and cutting-edge design, we’re quite used to seeing a mix of looks from Ball. Generally, they have a sharp and sophisticated look, giving the impression that their watches could survive a year in the wilderness but still make it to dinner reservations in a respectable form. The latest … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer M Skindiver III Beyond combines slick looks with rugged swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
The new Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum is a more classic design with Starwalker, Meisterstuck design cues like the onion crown and step lugs. It is an alternative to the Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum that uses sharper lines on its case with less chamfered edges. The watch is priced at US$7000.
Quill & Pad
“The Holy Trinity,” as any watch nerd knows, refers to the triumvirate of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Colin Smith takes a look at what we mean – or think we mean - when we describe PP, AP, and VC as the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and when we describe a timepiece as our “grail watch.”
Quill & Pad
CB thought it was a great idea to add a legendary platinum bracelet to his A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen. At first it looked like it would be easy, but then there were a few unforeseen "issues." GaryG tells the up-and-down story of one man's search (and willingness to fight) for his dream grail.
Teddy Baldassarre
For watch enthusiasts and collectors, nothing beats discussing the world of timepieces with like-minded folks who share their horological passion. Opportunities to engage in such sessions in person, however, can often be difficult to arrange in our modern, increasingly overscheduled lives. This is where online watch forums come in handy, offering platforms for watch nerds all over the world to connect - whether they want to share opinions on the latest models or industry news, delve deep into a specific brand, ask a question about a vintage model, find expert advice on a repair or refurbishing, or buy, sell, and trade watches. Here we’ve compiled a list of the best online watch forums in several categories. Brand Specific rolexforums.com "The Internet's Finest Rolex Community," where members worldwide can post photos, communicate privately, and gain access to classified ads. omegaforums.net Omega fans discuss vintage and modern models, buy and sell watches, and seek advice on all manner of enthusiast topics. seikoforum.com A community for fans of Japan's most storied watchmaker, with threads on watches, clocks, and all of Seiko's subsidiary brands including Credor. enicarforums.com Proving a historic but under-the-radar brand can still inspire passion, this forum welcomes Enicar owners to buy, sell, post and discuss. tapatalk.com/groups/vintagerolexforum This site is dedicated to vintage Rolex watches and those who refurbish them, with tons of member-generated con...
SJX Watches
Founded by a group of watch enthusiasts from Singapore and Malaysia, Boldr Supply Co. first got off the ground on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter like many of its peers. Now best known for its affordable sports watches, the brand’s latest has a titanium case containing Seiko movement, but the highlight is something else, or more specifically, nothing else. The Venture Singularity has a dial of infinite blackness thanks to a coating of Musou Black, which absorbs 99.4% of incident light. Made by a Japanese company, Musou Black is similar to better known Vantablack in being blacker than black. Initial thoughts Boldr nails it again with another affordable and fun watch, but the Singularity stands out for its value proposition, one that’s arguably better than Boldr’s other offerings. As watches with ultra-black dial go, this has little competition – comparable watches usually cost much, much more. Boldr isn’t the first microbrand offering such a dial at a modest price but the Singularity is an unusually complete package with its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, along with a useful 200 m water resistance. Granted, the Singularity still looks and feels like it price aside from the dial, but it is something novel amongst watches that are very accessible. Priced at US$445, the Singularity unsurprisingly sold out quickly when the first batch went on sale. But it’s not a limited edition and pre-orders for the second batch are now open with delivery starting in...
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