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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Nov 7, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition

With a collection name like Big Bang, the word “discrete” usually would not come to mind. But the Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey and its monochromatic look provides a stealthier aesthetic within the collection.     As an industry leader in material innovation, we often see bold colours and designs from Hublot. But with … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Essential Grey Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin” SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Nov 4, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”

An Australian rules football player who’s a Zenith ambassador, Lance “Buddy” Franklin recently scored his 1000th goal and is now ranked fifth amongst the all-time highest scorers of the Australian Football League (AFL). To celebrate the occasion, Mr Franklin turned to Zenith to create something special, resulting in the two-piece limited-edition Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”. Mr Franklin will keep one watch while the other example is going under the hammer at online auctioneer Loupe This with all proceeds going to the Australian Literacy and Numeracy Foundation, a national charity that brings education to marginalised communities. The auction is now live on Loupe This and ends on on November 7, 2022 at 2:00 am GMT-5 (New York) or 3:00 pm GMT+8 (Singapore). Registration for bidding and full lot details can be accessed here. Lance “Buddy” Franklin Initial thoughts A larger and more rugged version of the Defy 21, the Defy Extreme is a big, sporty watch with an open-worked dial – a seemingly familiar formula. But the Buddy Franklin edition is different with its two-tone case and red dial. It moves away from the typical design of such watches and instead has a more restrained aesthetic that helps tame the 45 mm case size. The only downside of the watch is the fact that only one will be publicly available, and at an auction rather than for a fixed priced. But with the estimate being the retail price of the regular production model, the Buddy Franklin editio...

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Nov 1, 2022

Rado Captain Cook Automatic Chronograph Bronze Hands-on Review

Pros: Bold rugged designContrasting golden bronze case with the deep blue dial and bezelNumerous strap options as standard to interchange the look  Cons: The Nato strap makes it wear higher on the wrist, as not as flush as we would likeIt’s a larger watch so not for the faint of wrist Date wheel in white, not blue to blend in with the dial Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 Rado is one of those brands that does fly a little under the radar, in this writer’s opinion. They have always had good watches, and when it comes to different design materials, like ceramic, they’re up there with the best. I bought my wife a white Rado True Thinline in full ceramic about ten years ago, and it still looks as new as the day I bought it. She loves it and wears it all the time, and is quartz and keeps perfect time (until the battery goes dead, that is!) Which makes me think, why then do guys not think about Rado as they do other mainstream Swiss brands? Maybe it’s because they don’t put giant amounts into marketing with celebrities. Or maybe we’re all too caught up on the hype watches to look elsewhere? In any case, I’ve had the good fortune to try on a few Captain Cook variants this year, and I think Rado is a winner with this model line.   A Watch Line Named After An Adventurer For those that don’t know, the Captain Cook line goes back to 1962 and was aimed at doctors, engineers, athletes, deep sea di...

Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause Time+Tide
Zenith Nov 1, 2022

Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause

The prices of luxury watches make collecting an expensive hobby. But the cost of these objects also have potential to help charitable causes as a result. Whenever I talk to high-end collectors – men like Kevin O’Leary from Shark Tank, for example – what they really want are things that are one of a kind. … ContinuedThe post Zenith and AFL superstar Buddy Franklin deliver a Defy Extreme watch for a very good cause appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Oct 30, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways

Panerai is a brand that has successfully riffed off the same formula since their inception, producing an impressively diverse portfolio considering the tightly focused design of their watches. That being said, the Luminor and Radiomir cases that their entire offering are based on have become somewhat of a limiting factor, so Panerai had to look … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel is green in multiple ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67 Deployant
Oct 29, 2022

New Release: Polo Ralph Lauren Polo Vintage 67

The petite seconde configuration and flat case with stepped bezel is a stylistic homage to vintage timepieces. It echoes the era of fixed lugs monobloc cases that were once made from nickel plated brass. The spade hands and arabic numerals are flanked by a railroad minutes track which matches the classic look. While this may have to do with branding, a simpler logo without the large POLO font could have added more balance to the dial which favors the more subdued look. Otherwise, we welcome Polo Ralph Lauren's new Vintage 67 which acts as an avenue to initiate fashion lovers to the world of watchmaking, starting with the fine handwinding La Joux Perret movement. The watch is priced at US$2,700.

Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets Time+Tide
Louis Erard Oct 29, 2022

Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets

Louis Erard is no stranger to collaboration, having released some of their most successful pieces in partnership with the likes of Massena LAB and legends like Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Another on the long list of associates is Romaric André of seconde/seconde/, working together to produce a brilliant take on the brand’s regulator design, … ContinuedThe post Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 28, 2022

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk. Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants. The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge A brief history Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking. Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera. And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes,...

The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711 which Oct 25, 2022

The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s

“Anticipation, I suppose, sometimes exceeds realisation,” Amelia Earhart once said. Ever since the final swan song of the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, which, at times felt like a never-ending Elton John farewell tour, the rumour mill instantly began swirling. Everybody had predictions – a 6711 in titanium perhaps, or a return to a two-handed … ContinuedThe post The new 5711 successor – the 5811/1G Nautilus – is a bit of a letdown. But it is our fault, not Patek’s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2022

The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City

It’s a Saturday morning in New York City. For years, I’ve enjoyed the comfort and privacy of driving around the city as my form of transportation. But this Saturday I want to avoid having to pay the prices of a parking garage. So for the first time in what feels like forever, I’m about to … ContinuedThe post The changing reality of wearing a watch in New York City appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera “Cortina Watch” with a Green Gemstone Dial SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 21, 2022

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera “Cortina Watch” with a Green Gemstone Dial

Singapore watch retailer Cortina continues with its roll-out of special watches to mark its golden jubilee. Following limited editions from Blancpain, Patek Philippe, and H. Moser & Cie. comes the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Cortina Watch. While it might sound like yet another vintage-inspired chronograph, the latest Carrera is unlike anything TAG Heuer has done before. Instead of the usual steel, the case is 18k yellow gold, while the dial is made of maw sit sit, a little-known green gemstone found only in the northern parts of Myanmar. And the hour markers and hands are of course 18k yellow gold to match. Initial thoughts The base-model Carrera powered by the in-house Heuer 02 calibre is an appealing watch to begin with, especially in steel where it’s an affordable proposition with a historical design. But it is primarily a practical, everyday watch, which is arguably what it should be given its history as a motorsports chronograph. The Cortina edition, however, is the opposite. It is pricey, very much so in fact, but it is special. Green is the fashionable colour in watchmaking now, so you might be forgiven for feeling weary when faced with yet another dial in the colour. But green dials certainly capture the zeitgeist of today, and perhaps personify the “hype” watch culture exemplified by the famous olive-dial sports watch. The new Carrera, in contrast, runs counter to that. It is definitely green, but the natural stone dial means it is a intrinsically v...

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Oct 20, 2022

Interview: Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director at TAG Heuer

A Briton who has been the Heritage Director at TAG Heuer since March 2021, Nicholas Biebuyck is in charge of the brand’s museum and archives. Like his peers at other brands, Mr Biebuyck’s role goes beyond historical papers and vintage watches. He participates in product development and marketing, while being a brand ambassador, especially in bringing the brand to enthusiasts and collectors. But Mr Biebuyck also experienced a swathe of the watch industry prior to his role at TAG Heuer. He was previously a watch specialist at Bonhams and then Christie’s before joining Blackbird Watch Manual, a specialist magazine based in Hong Kong. Mr Biebuyck, who now lives in Switzerland with his family, also gained an insight into the art of managing clients with earlier stints as a “Genius” in an Apple Store and then marketing private-jet charters in Africa. The hand-finished movement in the one-off Monaco Only Watch 2021, a hint of where TAG Heuer might be headed And so Mr Biebuyck was wearing several hats when he was in Singapore recently during the Formula 1 Grand Prix weekend, when TAG Heuer staged an exhibition dedicated to its history in motorsports. We got the opportunity to quiz him on several topics, including where TAG Heuer is headed and how the brand balances its glamorous motorsports history with its avant-garde innovation. And we also gain his thoughts on the vintage Heuer market, especially after the high watermark of the Heuer thematic auction in 2017. SJX: ...

The many drawbacks of watches and why they make us love them even more Time+Tide
Oct 19, 2022

The many drawbacks of watches and why they make us love them even more

One of life’s great ironies is that the pursuit of perfection often leads to disappointment, even when it is achieved. Your average smartphone may have perfected the art of timekeeping, but a watch enthusiast could never be satisfied with that alone. Digital watches like G-SHOCKs may also have that functionality, but we still wouldn’t wear … ContinuedThe post The many drawbacks of watches and why they make us love them even more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono Oct 17, 2022

The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap

Chopard has long produced complicated and/or highly decorated pieces in their L.U.C collection as well as sport-oriented watches like the Mille Miglia, but a space was open for a model to bridge the gap between the two. This is where the Chopard Alpine Eagle steps in. Following in the footsteps of the 1980s St. Moritz, … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono is more eye-catching than ever on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin ‘The Anatomy of Beauty’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin The Anatomy Oct 17, 2022

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin ‘The Anatomy of Beauty’ in Singapore

To mark the reopening of its boutique within the same complex, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just inaugurated The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition taking place in the ArtScience Museum of Marina Bay Sands from now to November 2, 2022. Open to the public with free admission, the exhibition is an all-encompassing showcase of the brand’s watchmaking split into three sections, starting with its historical timepieces and culminating in its modern-day grand complications like the Tour de l’lle. The first section, Our Heritage: A Legacy as Precious as Time, presents a selection of the brand’s notable timepieces from its earliest years – the oldest watch on show is exactly 200 years old – continuing into the present day with the landmark Tour de l’lle launched in 2005 to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary, an impressive double-faced watch with 16 complications. A pocket watch dating from 1822 with an engraved case set with amethysts The Tour de l’lle Following that comes The Anatomy of Beauty dedicated to the brand’s traditional and artisanal decorative techniques. Amongst the highlights is the Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations”, a quartet of watches unveiled just earlier this year at the Louvre. Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations” Finally Science and Complications explores the five most important complications for VC, namely the tourbillon, split-seconds chronograph, retrograde display, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater. The key exh...

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition reflects on the “Invisible Train” Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition Oct 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition reflects on the “Invisible Train”

When people call watches “art” it may seem like fluff and romance. Prior to smartphones and quartz timekeepers, mechanical watches were known as tools – the only means to track the time portably. Today, the art of watchmaking is primarily acknowledged due to the obsolescence of wristwatches, the luxurious maintenance of a traditional craft and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition reflects on the “Invisible Train” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Get your kicks with Hublot’s Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 connected watch Time+Tide
Hublot s Big Bang e Oct 14, 2022

Get your kicks with Hublot’s Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 connected watch

No other luxury watchmaker has a stronger connection to football than Hublot. As the official timekeeper of the Premier League and the FIFA World Cup, their presence is inescapable, with branding on scoreboards, onscreen graphics and even on the wrists of the officials. Stars of the sport love the brand’s big, bold looks, and with … ContinuedThe post Get your kicks with Hublot’s Big Bang e FIFA World Cup Qatar 2022 connected watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 12, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong

Admired for its quality of engineering and finishing, A. Lange & Söhne is bringing Glashütte to Asia with a pair of exhibitions in Singapore and Hong Kong. The events will showcase the brand’s watches – including important historical models no longer in the catalogue like the Zeitwerk Luminous – as well as the brand’s most important complications like the constant-force mechanism. The Mechanical Masters takes place from October 27-30 in Singapore (sign up here), while Devoted to the Highest Standards in Hong Kong happens from October 25-31 in Hong Kong (sign up here). At the Singapore event, Lange’s technical excellence will be personified with live demonstrations of watchmaking, engraving, and other crafts required to complete a watch. The four-day event in Singapore will be fronted by two gentlemen from Glashütte: Robert Hoffmann, the chief watchmaker for the Zeitwerk department, and Robert Arnold, an artisan-engraver who will demonstrate the art of engraving the balance cock. A familiar face for anyone who’s attended past Lange events, Robert Hoffmann Event information Both events are open to the public, however, registration is required to attend. Singapore – The Mechanical Masters – 10:00 am-9:00 pm, October 27-30 ION Orchard 2 Orchard Turn Singapore 238801 Register for the Singapore event Hong Kong – Devoted to the Highest Standards – 10:00 am-7:30 pm, October 25-31 Landmark Atrium 15 Queen’s Road Central Central Hong Kong Regist...

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail Time+Tide
Panerai or possibly even Squale Oct 7, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail

When you think of watch collaborations with the Italian navy your mind would usually travel to a brand like Panerai, or possibly even Squale. That said, with Bulgari so proud of their Italian heritage, it makes perfect sense that they would pay tribute to an important piece of their nation’s history, regardless of their militaristic … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Aluminium GMT Amerigo Vespucci sets sail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years Time+Tide
Luminox Oct 2, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years

The phrase “tool watch” seems a bit laughable to some in a world of smartphones, smartwatches, and a world where luxury steel sports watches cost more than ever. Many of these steel tool watches are now among the most hyped and sought-after references around the world. Also, when you consider some collectors even look into … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Luminox Air Pilot-38 Lightning® 9520 has a dial that will glow without charge for 25 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better? Time+Tide
Oct 1, 2022

Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better?

Any Marvel fan, like me, had a fantastic week upon hearing the news that not only is Deadpool 3 on the way, but that Hugh Jackman is coming out of role-retirement to play Wolverine in the film once more. We all believed that Logan was Jackman’s last outing as the most recognisable member of the … ContinuedThe post Ryan Reynolds vs Hugh Jackman: Which superhero does watches better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references Time+Tide
Certina watches speed dating – Sep 30, 2022

VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references

Certina are the definition of an underdog brand, with many of their Swatch Group relatives outshining them in marketing and general fanbase adoration. But, with a closer look, Certina have really carved out their own corner of the affordable Swiss market. A melding of slick style and vintage inspirations allows them to weave their way … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Certina watches speed dating – a selection of sporty and elegant references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.