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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Mechanical Keyboards, the Werwulf Trailer, and a Stunning New View of the Milky Way Worn & Wound
6 days ago

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Mechanical Keyboards, the Werwulf Trailer, and a Stunning New View of the Milky Way

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Fixing the Biggest Problem With Mechanical Keyboards I don’t think it would be fair to classify me as a luddite, but I would say I’m more of a nostalgist. While I have made a nice little career for myself online, I do miss when things were a bit simpler. You know, when tech oligarchs didn’t rule the world and I could play my little Flash games on Neopets and it would take four hours to download one song onto my Microsoft Zune. Sure, I have an office now, but it doesn’t have the same charm as a computer room.  This, of course, is bootstrapped by the physical memories, too. The soft grey ball inside the computer mouse, for one. Turning the computer on with my big toe while balancing my dinner plate on my lap. And, of course, the clickity-clackity of the keyboard. It was elevator music to the millions of AOL messages I sent throughout my high school years and the bane of my father’s existence, who swore he could hear it from all the way down the hall. Now I use a Macbook and it’s a soft and gentle tap on my fingertips. Not to quote Joni Mitchell here, but you really don’t know what you got ‘til it’s gone. All the same, I’m glad I’m not alone. It see...

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A Brief History Of The Seiko Astron GPS Solar — Including Some Of The Best Models Made So Far Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar — 6 days ago

A Brief History Of The Seiko Astron GPS Solar — Including Some Of The Best Models Made So Far

Time from space. The light-powered Astron GPS Solar, which Seiko launched 14 years ago — this article is indeed a brief history of the Seiko Astron Solar GPS, not the groundbreaking Astron from 1969 — was the world’s first wristwatch to use satellite signals to set the correct time automatically. A 47 × 16mm case […] Visit A Brief History Of The Seiko Astron GPS Solar — Including Some Of The Best Models Made So Far to read the full article.

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eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Zenith, Omega, Seiko, and More! Worn & Wound
Zenith Omega Seiko 6 days ago

eBay Finds: Great Vintage Watches from Zenith, Omega, Seiko, and More!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Zenith A3630 Vintage Diver  Here’s a rare gem to start us off this week, a vintage Zenith diver with original bracelet! This Zenith A3630 has a classically styled 38mm diver case in steel that looks to be unpolished. It does have some wear consistent with use and its age, but it does not look abused. The matte black dial looks excellent, with a contrasting white outer chapter ring and applied steel markers, and an unobtrusive date window at 4:30. The steel hands have large lume plots, and the hour hand has a nice big arrow tip for easy reading. The oversize crown is signed with the Zenith star symbol. The aluminum elapsed time bezel insert has some nice fading to it, but overall it’s in good shape. This piece comes with the original Gay Freres steel bracelet with a Zenith signed buckle. The Zenith automatic movement is clean and runs well per the seller. Great hard to find vintage diver! View auction here Heuer Autavia 1163 Vintage Chronograph  Next up is another heavy hitter, a vintage Heuer Autavia 1163 chronograph. Wow, this beast is a real beauty. The 42mm steel cushion case is superb, unpolished with crisp edges and the original brushed finish. The black dial looks original an...

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Our Favorite Watches of 2026 (So Far) Worn & Wound
Baltic Jul 3, 2026

Our Favorite Watches of 2026 (So Far)

With the first half of 2026 in the books (seriously, how is already July?) we thought it would be a good time to check in with our writers to see what watches spoke to them this year. It’s been a busy year in terms of new releases, with major new novelties from the big brands dotting the calendar on a weekly basis even well past trade show season. But as always, our team looks to smaller makers (and more obscure references from the big guns) when it comes to considering the very best.  As always, we want to know your favorites, so let us know in the comments what new 2026 releases were your favorites in the first six months of the year.  Zach Kazan It feels like this has been an exceptional year for watches. As Zach Weiss and I were preparing to record a podcast on this very topic earlier this week, my list of watches to discuss as highlights for the first half of 2026 ballooned to a point that I had to start thinking about what to cut rather than how to scramble for a few more watches to talk about. That’s a position we’ve all been in from time to time with these lists, and having a surplus of good watches to consider is a better situation by far.  That said, there’s one watch, to me, that’s a clear favorite, and that’s the collaboration between Baltic and SpaceOne, the Seconde Majeure. This is the best watch either brand has ever made, and a great example of the right way to do a collaboration. It doesn’t feel exactly like either brand, but a little like...

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American Independent 1776 Atelier Debuts the Liberty 250 SJX Watches
Hamilton closed their American factories Jul 3, 2026

American Independent 1776 Atelier Debuts the Liberty 250

Texas-based independent 1776 Atelier commemorates America’s 250th year with the Liberty 250, a rose gold skeleton watch with sharp anglage on a movement that is overwhelmingly American made, from the main plate to the free-sprung balance. Initial thoughts The American watch industry transformed from a cottage industry heavily reliant on European imports to the world’s largest watch manufacturer in just a few decades, concentrated around a handful of massive, and capital intensive, factories. This meant that when Waltham, Elgin, and Hamilton closed their American factories in 1957, 1968, and 1969, respectively, the entire domestic watchmaking disappeared almost overnight. 1776 Atelier is one of a handful of independents trying to rebuild it. Founder Jason Lu is a Texan technology executive turned self-taught watchmaker who cut his teeth restoring pocket watches as a hobby. He was later mentored by Donat Kornagel of DK Precision — a prolific German movement customiser — and took anglage-guru Philippe Narbel‘s full week masterclass. Co-founder Zach Smith — WOSTEP-trained watchmaker and KERN-whisperer — also founded Hour Precision, one of the few American component suppliers. Two members of Hour Precision’s fleet of KERN CNC mills Together, their approach is antithetical to the so-called “American system” of industrial watchmaking, which failed in the US but lives on in Switzerland and Asia. Instead, they build watches in small numbers by labour-intensive ...

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Bring a Loupe: A Million Valjoux 72, An 18k Gold Constellation, And A Sarpaneva Moomin Hodinkee
Grand Seiko SBGW235 Jul 3, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Million Valjoux 72, An 18k Gold Constellation, And A Sarpaneva Moomin

Happy Friday again, Ballers, and congrats to whoever snagged the Omega 2998-4 on Goodwill earlier this week. I'm fighting multiple aspects of my nature—as a midwesterner and a dad—to avoid making lame jokes about the heat, but fingers crossed, the fever's breaking, and it'll return to average temperatures sometime soon for all of us. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Hamilton sold for $4,300, the Speedmaster Soyuz for €18,000, and the Universal Genève Rattrapante for GBP 4,250 . The Goldpfiel Vianney Halter sold, but the auction house hasn't listed the price online and hasn't responded to my email, so we'll all have to live with the mystery. Strays I mentioned Always Sunny last week, and now this week there's this exquisite Movado Ermeto with a caseback dedication—Dennis from Mac—that feels too good not to include. I figured it'd be fun to stir the pot last week and argue the Hamilton Model 21 as the Most Important American Watch in history. For whatever it's worth, the runner-up would've been the Bulova Accutron, and the purest expression of that watch is the Spaceview, of which there's a nice (though non-running) version available here, which auction lot also includes a Spaceman watch (also not working), and the Spaceman, for what it's worth, deserves more oddball attention.  Photo courtesy of Seuyco. Here's an almost comically reserved but gorgeous Grand Seiko SBGW235, and, in the same auction, here's what sure seems to be a great example of an IWC 'Steril...

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Commemorate a Personal Milestone with Apiar’s Next Highly Limited Edition Gen 1.1 White Meridian Worn & Wound
Jul 3, 2026

Commemorate a Personal Milestone with Apiar’s Next Highly Limited Edition Gen 1.1 White Meridian

I’m not going to say I’m biased toward celestial watches to a fault, but as the resident astrology girl, I’m most certainly a little biased anytime a watch incorporates the stars, moon, or planets. Whether you check your horoscope or not, there’s something undeniably alluring about the constellations and the shapes they take – one that connects us to the vastness of time and space, to a very ancient human desire to make sense of the universe, or, in the case of Apiar’s latest limited edition Gen 1.1 White Meridian, one that connects you to a very specific place and time.  It’s no coincidence that horology and astrology have long gone hand in hand and that the imagery of celestial bodies have long appeared in watchmaking (more on that in a future story I’ve been spinning up for some time now). I digress, today, Apiar adds another timepiece to this longstanding horological lineage with its next special edition version of the Gen 1.1.As a refresher, the Gen 1.1 is quite new to the brand’s catalog, marking an evolution from the brand’s core Gen 1.0 line. Apiar first debuted the Gen 1.1 earlier this year at the British Watchmaker’s Day festivities. The collection kicked off with a highly limited edition of just three pieces called the Underground, aptly named for its hand-enameled dial inspired by Dr. Maxwell Roberts’ circular redesign of the London Underground map. The model was such a success it was later followed by the Night Tube edition, which you ...

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Patek Philippe’s Milan Grand Exhibition Rare Handcrafts are La Dolce Vita SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Milan Grand Exhibition Jul 3, 2026

Patek Philippe’s Milan Grand Exhibition Rare Handcrafts are La Dolce Vita

Patek Philippe has just offered a peek at the Rare Handcrafts collection conceived for the upcoming Watch Art Grand Exhibition Milan 2026 that begins in October at the CityOval exhibition hall in Milan. As is traditional for the exhibition collection, the watches are centred on themes local to the host country or region. Italy, unsurprisingly, offers abundant inspiration and the pair of watches revealed so far certainly evoke la dolce vita. The first is the pocket watch ref. 992/193J-001 “Burano” that features an enamel decoration modelled on the streets of the Venetian island known for its compact houses painted in bright colours. A variety of enamelling techniques were employed for this motif, including cloisonné for the buildings and figures and paillonné for the waterway. The second timepiece is the Dome Clock ref. 20179M-001 “Sicilian Oranges”. This depicts Palermo seen from a distance, with an orange grove in the foreground. As is traditional for Dome Clocks, majority of the decoration is in cloisonné enamel. Because of the size of the clock, some 15 m of gold wire was required to complete the motif. The Grand Exhibition takes places October 2-18, 2026, at CityOval in Milan. Entry is free but complimentary tickets are required and available via online registration at Watchart2026.patek.com.  

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Introducing – The Chronoswiss’ Skeleton Chronograph Returns as the Opus Dakar Sundown Monochrome
Chronoswiss Skeleton Chronograph Returns Jul 3, 2026

Introducing – The Chronoswiss’ Skeleton Chronograph Returns as the Opus Dakar Sundown

The Opus, one of the defining collections in the modern Chronoswiss catalogue, was originally introduced in 1995 as the world’s first serially produced skeletonised automatic chronograph. It remains a foundational part of the brand’s identity, continuing to evolve through colour, materials and finishing. Following last year’s titanium Opus Dakar with its desert-inspired palette, Chronoswiss now […]

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News: Seiko Creates A One-Off With The Star Time Watch For Shohei Ohtani Fratello
Seiko Creates Jul 3, 2026

News: Seiko Creates A One-Off With The Star Time Watch For Shohei Ohtani

Seiko has unveiled a unique mechanical watch to mark baseball player Shohei Ohtani’s10th anniversary as the brand’s ambassador in Japan. The company spent around three years developing the Seiko Star Time after drawing inspiration from Ohtani’s question: “How much time do I have left in my baseball career?” Instead of measuring elapsed seconds or featuring […] Visit News: Seiko Creates A One-Off With The Star Time Watch For Shohei Ohtani to read the full article.

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Hands On Horology 2026 Hosted By Oracle Time Magazine — Photo Report Fratello
Jul 3, 2026

Hands On Horology 2026 Hosted By Oracle Time Magazine — Photo Report

Last month, I attended the second — and soon-to-be annual — Hands On Horology event. Hosted by Oracle Time at Protein Studios in Shoreditch, London, the show brought together watch brands from around the world. Representatives from Switzerland, France, Italy, Germany, China, Japan, Britain, Norway, the United States, and many other nations filled the venue. With […] Visit Hands On Horology 2026 Hosted By Oracle Time Magazine — Photo Report to read the full article.

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Introducing: Greubel Forsey Re-Launches Its Icon Iith The New 'Balancier QM' Hodinkee
Greubel Forsey Re-Launches Jul 2, 2026

Introducing: Greubel Forsey Re-Launches Its Icon Iith The New 'Balancier QM'

What We Know Less than a year ago, Greubel Forsey discontinued the most emblematic pillar of its particularly well-finished watchmaking, the Balancier Contemporain. The Balancier is dead. Long live the Balancier. The new Balancier QM, that is. Very much grown out of the lessons, successes, and even the architecture of the Balancier Contemporain, the Balancier QM is the first to carry the brand's new Qualité Musée standard.  While it looks somewhat different, with a floating balance cock and rearranged location of the power reserve, the Balancier QM is a familiar watch to anyone who has seen a GF before. That's because the movement borrows much of its architecture from the old Balancier Contemporain, as well as its identical sizing (39.6mm by 12.25mm for both models), now in white gold.  What the Balancier QM is instead is more of a codification of a new Qualité Musée (QM) certification for this and future GF watches. Like the Patek seal, Qualité Fleurier, Breguet Hallmark, and other in-house standards (all three of which have also just added chronometric certification not found here), this guarantees a certain—particularly extreme—level of hand-finishing quality. Finishing has been one of the key raisons d'être for GF since its founding. There's been an "if you know, you know" quality to the brand that signaled that, included in their extreme pricing, you get extreme finishing from the brand. That was a novelty in the past, but now it's a "must" for any high-en...

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Hands-on – Revisiting Maen’s Coolest Integrated Sports Watch, the Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin with Blue Tuscan Dial Monochrome
Maen Jul 2, 2026

Hands-on – Revisiting Maen’s Coolest Integrated Sports Watch, the Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin with Blue Tuscan Dial

The Maen Manhattan 37 Ultra-Thin is one of the brand‘s signature series. The recent boutique-exclusive Blue Fumé edition sold out almost immediately, while the textured blue model proved equally popular, disappearing from the catalogue for a time. Responding to demand, Maen has now brought it back into production, giving fans another chance to experience what […]

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The Art Of Being A Value-Driven Collector Hodinkee
Ming dealers seizing Jul 2, 2026

The Art Of Being A Value-Driven Collector

The industry-wide market fluctuations that took shape in the wake of the pandemic pushed an often-taboo conversation in the collecting community: are we collecting for investment or are we collecting for pleasure? Sure, it's not quite that black-and-white, but certain shifts in the market and collector behavior over the past six years are undeniable. When the value of particular brands and models began to skyrocket, the secondary market showed clear signs that people were capitalizing on the opportunity to profit, and, in turn, the pure notions of "I buy what I like" or "I collect because it's fun" began to come into question. At one end of the spectrum, many collectors were essentially becoming dealers, seizing a moment when there was a massive return on investment to be had. However, even those collectors who didn't get fully swept away in the hype at the height of the market became acutely aware of the value their watches held and how, quite literally, in the blink of an eye, that value could change for better or worse. "Hype moments are not inherently bad or good," suggests Charles Tian, Founder and CEO of WatchCharts. "Some hype is expected for a healthy market—if the market is actually alive and things are happening, that means there are passionate people in the market, and you are inevitably going to get some hype. The question is how you navigate these moments in the context of your own collecting journey." According to WatchCharts and Morgan Stanley's quarterly ...

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Photo Report: Pitti Uomo Summer 2026 Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Jul 2, 2026

Photo Report: Pitti Uomo Summer 2026

Pitti Uomo, Florence's biannual fashion week and perhaps the world's foremost gathering of stylish men, arrived this year amid an epic heatwave. Thousands of designers, buyers, and guests made the pilgrimage anyway—sleeves rolled, shorts short, shirts linen. Hodinkee was there to document what they were wearing on their wrists. Rolex Sea-Dweller. A few trends worth noting: the "vacation watch" has arrived as a legitimate category. Quirky, colorful, and valued less for their specs than for the memories attached to them. Panerais, meanwhile, are making a quiet resurgence in their home city. Steel Rolexes and Omegas remain ubiquitous, as they have been for the past two years. But the men of Pitti Uomo are increasingly hunting smaller, more obscure, and frankly more interesting pieces. A vintage Jaeger wristwatch was the highlight for me personally. Enjoy! Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116520.  Vintage Piaget. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. Panerai Luminor Power Reserve Automatic. Noah x Timex Lighthouse Watch. Rolex Bubbleback. Emilie Hawtin, founder of women's tailoring brand Clementina, with her Rolex Lady Datejust. Swatch Gent. Rolex Explorer. Baltic Tricompax Tour Auto. Longines Spirit Zulu Time. Rolex Explorer II ref. 16570. Benrus Type II. Darte x Praesidus X-1. A Longines Heritage 1945 that was inspired by a watch that Ben Clymer used to own. Q Timex Vintage Hodinkee Limited Edition. Emporio Armani Sinfonia. Cartier Santos. Cartier Tank Mus...

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Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve In Light Blue Hodinkee
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Jul 2, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve In Light Blue

What We Know Today, Longines follows up its 2024 release of the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve with a new colorway, adding a light blue opaline dial to the mix. Yes, this one's just a new dial color, but it offers a completely different feel from the three previous models in the very conservative shades of cream, grey, and black. The Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve serves as an homage to a 1959 model from the brand with the same kind of power reserve indication, but you can bet that they weren't doing light blue in this watch back in the day. The hue on the front is a refreshing change, but the styling on the dial otherwise remains the same, with a sector dial framing the unique power reserve indicator right in the center. What makes it interesting is that the power reserve isn't just displayed by a rotating pointer, but rather by a dance between the two discs of the power-reserve hours track and the inner pointer.  This means that, depending on how you've wound the watch, the positioning of the pointer from full to empty may not always be the same on the dial. This certainly makes for a less intuitive setup, though in all fairness, this piece of information is probably secondary compared to the time and date, for things you'd need at a glance. A date window sits at twelve o'clock, nicely framed in an appliqué, and is accompanied by applied hour markers throughout. The case is well-proportioned for a wide range of wrist sizes, although rather tall for a ...

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The Best Summer Watches: Mike’s Five Picks From Rolex, Synchron, Victorinox, TAG Heuer, And Hamilton Fratello
Victorinox TAG Heuer Jul 2, 2026

The Best Summer Watches: Mike’s Five Picks From Rolex, Synchron, Victorinox, TAG Heuer, And Hamilton

I suppose that out of all of my teammates, I come from the hottest place. Perhaps Nacho, with his Spanish roots, ties with me, but South Florida probably wins on humidity. Therefore, I’ve technically lived with summer watches for most of my life. While Balazs and I discussed this curious sub-genre on a recent Fratello On […] Visit The Best Summer Watches: Mike’s Five Picks From Rolex, Synchron, Victorinox, TAG Heuer, And Hamilton to read the full article.

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Fratello Talks: Texture, Color, Stone — Let’s Talk Dials Fratello
Jul 2, 2026

Fratello Talks: Texture, Color, Stone — Let’s Talk Dials

In all four seasons of the Fratello Talks podcast, we’ve never dedicated an episode to watch dials. We thought it was about time to change that. The dial is one of the most important parts of a watch, as it’s the “face” that gets the most attention when checking the time. It often draws the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Texture, Color, Stone — Let’s Talk Dials to read the full article.

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I’ve Seen the Future of American Watchmaking SJX Watches
Jul 2, 2026

I’ve Seen the Future of American Watchmaking

American watchmaking seems to be on the rebound, though it bears repeating that the number of brands doing substantial work within the 50 states remains low. On the eve of the nation’s 250th birthday, we examine another aspect of the domestic watch industry: the state of its watchmaking training system. To bring this topic into focus, we visited the Watch Technology Institute (WTI) at North Seattle College (NSC) — the last remaining full-time public watchmaking programme in the US capable of granting a major certification. The Watch Technology Institute at North Seattle College. Image – WTI The state of watch education in the United States The United States was once a watchmaking powerhouse that forced a massive shift toward industrialised watchmaking in Switzerland. But the domestic industry faltered as consumer tastes shifted to favour wristwatches, and the nation’s industrialists effectively gave up on watchmaking to focus on other markets. That explains why most American watchmakers today are oriented toward the service and maintenance of Swiss-made watches. There’s been a renewed emphasis in recent years on making complete watches in the US — J.N. Shapiro’s Resurgence is a representative example — but the needs and trends of the broader market help explain America’s increasingly consolidated training landscape. Understanding WTI and SAWTA The history of WTI dates to the post-war era, when a large number of vocational schools were opened in the US to ...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Cait Bazemore Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2026

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Cait Bazemore

Editor’s Note: A break this week from reader submissions of our ongoing 3 for 5k column to make room for an entry from Worn & Wound contributor Cait Bazemore.  Cait is a watch industry veteran and her choices reflect her experience in the space in an interesting way. Specifically, they are all tied to her connections with the people behind the brands. This is a phenomenon most of us who work in watches for any length of time eventually come to understand. It just feels good to support the people we connect with (even when it’s hypothetical support for a Worn & Wound column). And honestly, this isn’t exclusive to watch industry professionals. Anyone who has attended a Windup event or any other watch fair and taken a minute to speak with a brand owner can probably relate.  Today, I notch another rite of passage as a contributor at Worn & Wound: my three-watch collection for under $5,000. The mission is clear, but I have to be honest, it was much more challenging than I expected. This exercise taught me a lot about myself, what I value, and how that actually translates to a dollar figure. I’ll confess, I realized a majority of my most desired watches sit around the $2,700 to $3,300 range – multiply that times three, and the total is well over the $5,000 mark. I had to carefully consider three timepieces that fell roughly around $1,500 each and that would make a well-rounded three-watch collection: a dress watch, a sport watch, and a wild card seemed like obvious ...

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Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 'Bumblebee' Ref. 79310N Hodinkee
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jul 1, 2026

Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 'Bumblebee' Ref. 79310N

Among the ever-evolving sizes and colors of modern Tudor, we now have the latest (and smallest and most colorful) iteration of the brand's dive-inspired chronograph, the Black Bay Chronograph 39. Dubbed the "Bumblebee" for its bright yellow dial and black accents, it marks the progressive 39-ification of Tudor's core lineup and forms what I think will be a very appealing new offering for the brand. When Tudor returned to the American market in 2012, the brand's core offerings evolved around an initial 41mm footprint. This includes early hits like the Black Bay, the Heritage Chrono, and the Ranger. Then, in 2017, Tudor announced the Black Bay Chronograph 79350, a 41mm steel chronograph with 200 meters of water resistance and snowflake hands. Since then, the Black Bay Chronograph range has been tweaked, improved, and expanded considerably, with additional colors (including the recent pink and flamingo blue). But while we saw the Black Bay eventually offer the 39mm 58 range and the Ranger drop to 39mm (and later to 36mm), the Chronograph range remained steadfast at 41mm. While 41mm is within the range for a conventionally sized modern sports watch, the enthusiast taste has shifted toward the 39mm sweet spot (likely at least in part due to the success of the Black Bay 58 and the Pelagos 39). Additionally, as slightly smaller cases continue to be in vogue, more attention is (and was) being paid to case thickness. The 41mm spec of the Black Bay Chrono wears well, but it's not sm...

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Introducing the Temporal Works Series A “Rambler” Worn & Wound
Jul 1, 2026

Introducing the Temporal Works Series A “Rambler”

Temporal Works, the brand brought to you by Armoury founder Mark Cho and the Armoury’s creative director Elliot Hammer, is only about six months removed from their first release at the end of last year. Today, they’ve unveiled the next watch in their Series A collection, dubbed the Rambler. It’s a slight tweak on the simple idea that defined the Series A in the first place. According to Cho, he thought of that watch as something that should be as straightforward and effortlessly elegant as a well tailored navy blazer. If that first batch of Series A watches could be thought of as trading in a somewhat elevated level of refinement, the new Series A Rambler takes a similar approach but with a more rugged perspective.  The new Rambler takes a more tool watch forward approach than its predecessor in a few key ways. First, the case has been finished with a bead blasting process and forgoes the polishing of the original Series A, making it immediately more of a casual, toned down piece. Matte dials in “Black Sesame” and “Red Bean” feel both classic and kind of earthy, with handset designs borrowed from historic pilot watches. It’s a tasteful, sector dial with the brand’s logo appearing at the 4:00 position, and no additional text to speak of. Straps are also appropriately casual, with the black dial pairing with an olive canvas strap, and the red dial one in gray Alcantara.  The Series A Rambler is sized at 37mm in diameter and 45mm from lug to lug. It’s 10...

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Roy Davidoff (Geneva Vintage Watch Dealer And Collector) Hodinkee
Jacob & Co. before becoming Jul 1, 2026

The Business of Watches Podcast: Roy Davidoff (Geneva Vintage Watch Dealer And Collector)

Roy Davidoff has spent a life keeping up with the time. Born into a family of jewelers and a youth spent in Geneva, followed by a move to Miami, watches have been a constant throughout his professional career.  Roy Davidoff (Photo Courtesy Cartier).  A return to Switzerland saw stints at brands including Bovet and Jacob & Co., before becoming a dealer of vintage and pre-owned with his brother and the launch of their business  - Roy & Sacha Davidoff SA - more than a decade ago. The fraternal duo gained prominence as dealers and experts regarding the Omega Speedmaster - a specialized section of the vintage market that has most certainly had its ups and downs. A respected name and authority in the industry, Davidoff most recently served as a jury member for The Cartier Prize For Watchmaking Talents of Tomorrow, where, alongside fellow judges including Kari Voutilainen, were tasked with making selections for creations from European watchmaking students who were chosen for their technical and artistic interpretations reconsidering different ways to tell time. Davidoff's role as a dealer and collector demands deep knowledge and constantly taking the pulse of the secondary market, shifting tastes, and changing demands. At the high-end and elite level, the market has changed, Davidoff says, as many collectors seek assurance and certainty in modern, independent brands and watchmakers. He's candid, enthusiastic, and dedicated to the Swiss industry, where he's found a place amon...

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