Hodinkee
The Grey NATO: Episode 98: Collection Inspection Vol. 8
An old chronograph and a new diver that is meant to look like an old diver. Also, Lego!
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Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
Happy Chinese New Year With 8 Auspicious Rat-Themed Watches From Jaquet Droz, Vacheron Constantin, Blancpain, Perrelet, Piaget, And Chopard
To celebrate the new Chinese Year of the Rat, some high-end watchmakers have created special editions depicting some form of the resourceful rodent. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at eight of them.
Revolution
Hublot at LVMH Watch Week Dubai 2020
On the heels of the newly announced Big Bang Integral, let’s take a look at the other releases that Hublot has brought to the sunny dunes of Dubai.
Time+Tide
Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown
This weekend, I wore my Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Danny’s Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny has lusted after Rolex’s GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLRO ever since it was first … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Harry Winston Opus Series: A Complete Overview From Opus 1 Through Opus 14
Since the Swatch Group took over Harry Winston, a continuation of the Opus series has been somewhat in doubt. But in 2015 the Opus 14 finally arrived. And now it has been quietly said that an Opus 15 is on the way. Which makes this a great time to look back on the groundbreaking series.
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Watch Eric - Day In The Life Ep.01 (Welcome to Miami)
SJX Watches
Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle
Chiming movements – as in a minute repeater or grande sonnerie – have been fairly consistent in construction, being both rare and difficult to master, let alone be improved upon. But over the past two decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed an impressive number of engineering improvements for its repeating movements, from “trebuchet” hammers that are hinged like the medieval catapult for enhanced striking power, to “crystal” gongs that are welded to the sapphire crystal to boost volume. This year, the brand has added to its list of striking innovations with revamped, ultra-long gongs in the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle, which was designed to raise both the quality and quantity of the chimes. The Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle with a grained, silver dial An elaborate case Available with the dial in either a blue flinqué enamel or a simpler, silvered and grained finish, the Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (MGTRMP) combines a minute repeater with one of the most user-friendly perpetual calendar mechanisms on the market, plus automatic winding. The self-winding capability is important and practical, because the movement has a short 38-hour power reserve. The two dial variants. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre All of that is naturally voluminous, and packed into a large white gold case measuring 43mm wide and 13.72mm high. Though by no means a small watch, it is surprisingly thin for such a grand...
Time+Tide
Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019
The more you look at different watches, the more critical you become, as you better understand what the watchmaker and designer were trying to achieve, and how successful they were at executing it in the final watch. This year, I got a lot of opportunities to handle hundreds of different watches, both new and vintage, … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 5 favourite watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why you should always buy your watches on a bracelet when you have the chance
Very few watch straps are as integral to the overall look and feel of a watch as a bracelet can be. On occasions, the bracelet is as essential to the watch DNA as the watch head – a continuation of the same concept, snaking around the wrist. The most famous bracelet design of all time … ContinuedThe post Why you should always buy your watches on a bracelet when you have the chance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Looking Back At Ten High-Value Out Of Production Watches
Looking back six years, these are Ben's picks for discontinued but not-to-be-forgotten watches, do they still deserve a second look?
Time+Tide
Put a smile on your dial: 5 of this year’s best new dials
What’s the single most important component that dictates whether a new watch will be lauded or loathed by enthusiasts? Personally, I think a timepiece’s dial is the ultimate barometer of whether or not it’s a success. It’s what we look at most, and a beautiful dial has the ability to capture the imagination. There have … ContinuedThe post Put a smile on your dial: 5 of this year’s best new dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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A Unique Layout From Accutron with Vintage Inspiration - Legacy Automatic Day-Date
SJX Watches
Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Dubail Edition
Before the monumental Grand Complication was launched in 2013 – essentially a wristwatch remake of a pocket watch sized like a pocket watch – the most complicated A. Lange & Söhne was the Tourbograph. Launched in 2005, it combined a split-seconds chronograph with a tourbillon regulator as well as a chain and fusee. A limited edition of 51 watches conceived as a tribute to the Günter Blümlein (1943-2001), revered for having reestablished A. Lange & Söhne after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the Tourbograph was powered by the L903.0 movement, made up of 465 parts, excluding the tiny chain. Cased in platinum, it was the original Lange uber-complication; a later edition of 50 pieces had a honey gold case, followed by an even more complex version with a perpetual calendar. Same but different Level up But Lange went one better and made a singular example of the ultimate Tourbograph, which was the most expensive Lange at the time. This Tourbograph was a unique piece set with 202 diamonds on the case – including one brilliant-cut diamond on the crown – and 175 on the bracelet, for a total of 377 diamonds weighing 40.6 carats. Diamonds aside, it is also unique as the only Tourbograph known that’s fitted to a matching platinum bracelet. Unveiled in 2009, it was made for Dubail, destined for its flagship store – which opened just the year before – on the Place Vendome, the posh square in Paris that is home to the Hotel Ritz and grand French jewellers like Cartier and...
Time+Tide
XXXL: 3 of the biggest watches of 2019
One of the biggest trends for timepieces of the last decade has been oversized case dimensions that stretch well into the 45mm plus category. And while the inclination for producing gargantuan wristwatches is starting to cool as tastes in the horological community change, this year has still spawned some absolute doozies for those that like … ContinuedThe post XXXL: 3 of the biggest watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six Watch Recommendations for Last Minute Christmas Gift Ideas, from Our Archives
In this week's column, we take a look at some last minute Christmas gift ideas that are related to horology with six watch recommendations.
Deployant
Review: Asaoka’s Kurono Classic – Midnight Blue and Eggshell White
Hajime Asaoka's Kurono Classic watches is a less expensive route to his work. We take a close look at two variants - the Midnight Blue and Eggshell White.
SJX Watches
Recommended Watching: Roger W. Smith Explains History of the Mechanical Watch
Just over two weeks ago the annual George Daniels lecture took place at the City University of London, an institution supported by the late watchmaker’s charitable trust. This year’s speaker at the sold-out event was none other than Roger W. Smith, protege and successor to Daniels. Just over an hour long, including questions, the lecture is erudite, accessible and packed with nerdy trivia, like the fact that a movement running at 28,800 beats per hour will make 252,288,000 vibrations per year. Roger explained the history and rationale behind the mechanical watch, and how watchmakers are working to improve it even today. That naturally led into the lubrication-free co-axial escapement invented by Daniels (pictured above), which Roger delves into in a satisfyingly detailed manner, like comparing the sliding friction of a lever escapement against the tangential impulse of the co-axial. Fortunately, the entire proceedings were recorded and are now available online:
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Watch Eric - Day In The Life Ep.03 - NBA Player Buys 1st Watch, Grey Market Finale Party!!
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue
USP – the acronym for “unique selling point”. A watchmaker’s USP is paramount to their success, and if you look at the general consensus of what’s considered the best brands out there, they’ve all got it - they each excel at something that puts them a cut above the rest. Whether it’s Rolex and their storied … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Breitling Avenger Blackbird Review
Despite recent turbulent times (pun intended #avgeek), under the guidance of Georges Kern and team, Breitling has re-established itself with a robust and cohesive line up of watches. Today, we take a closer look at a staple of the “air collection”, The Avenger, but more specifically, a newer addition, The Blackbird. Designed to be sleek and stealthy, this particular Breitling is a little different to the usual polished steel cases usually offered. CASE: Titanium has certainly gained popularity in recent years. Breitling went one step further and went full stealth mode, coating the large 48mm case (before you stop reading, there’s a 44mm option also), with “a highly resistant black carbon-based treatment,” aka DLC coating from what I’ve researched. While large in diameter, case thickness of 14.8mm and a lug width of 24mm (tapers to buckle), it’s surprisingly comfortable on wrist. The curved lugs combined with a canvas strap, allows the wearer to anchor down the watch, while the flat, untreated, screw-down caseback ensures a low profile is maintained. The 60 minutes, unidirectional bezel is smooth in operation and clicks into position cleanly. On the media model shown, there was a small amount of back-play; however, I’m confident this would be corrected by the small retaining screws found around the bezel edging. Inside, keeping time is the Breitling B17 movement (a base ETA 2892-A2) that is CSOSC certified, with 42hrs of flight time. The knurled,...
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36
Everyone’s first Rolex purchase is important - it’s a milestone that, for most, carries with it a great amount of pride and sense of accomplishment. And for almost all of us out there lucky enough to have bought their inaugural timepiece from the legacy watchmaker, it isn’t something that was entered into lightly; we have known … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Joseph’s Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Frosted gold is very, very underrated
Editor’s note: There are lots of ways that watchmakers like to decorate their micromechanical marvels, such as engraving, polishing, brushing or even Côtes de Genève inside the case. While all of these techniques are wonderfully effective when done well, one of the most visually impressive (and generally underrated) techniques to finish a watch is hammering … ContinuedThe post Frosted gold is very, very underrated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Business News: Stefanie Ng Appointed CEO of Audemars Piguet SE Asia
Audemars Piguet (AP) recently named Stefanie Ng to lead its operations in Southeast Asia, India and Australia. She succeeds Jonathan King, who departed the brand in April 2019. Having started her career at Swatch Group, Ms Ng joined AP in 2012 as marketing manager for the region, where she helped execute projects like the Royal Oak 40th anniversary exhibition and a giant floral clock at Gardens by the Bay. The past two years have been formative for the brand, both in Asia and the wider world, as it has steadily trimmed its third-party distribution while growing sales within its own stores, making the marketing efforts of Ms Ng and her team vital, particularly with the launch of the all-new Code 11.59 collection earlier this year. As chief executive, Ms Ng will work alongside two board members of AP, which is unusual amongst Swiss watchmakers in having shareholders resident in Singapore: Oliviero Bottinelli, whose family inherited its stake from former AP chief executive Georges Golay (1921-1987), and Sunil Amarasuriya, who was once the distributor for AP in the region and acquired a minority stake in 1990. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 tourbillon made for Only Watch, which sold for a record 1m Swiss francs at the charity auction in November Though the watch industry in the region, like that back home in Switzerland, is dominated by men, it’s noteworthy that two of the most important brands – coincidentally both family owned – are now run by women. The Patek Philipp...
Video
The Get Carter Rolex: How It Made Day-Dates & DateJusts Even Cooler
Quill & Pad
Khanjar And Qaboos Rolexes: Are They The Vintage Watch Industry’s Blood Diamonds?
Increasing demand for timepieces, especially Rolexes, with the Omani emblem is understandable given the high quality, good condition, demonstrable provenance, and rarity of most of these watches, combined with the fact that they had often been presented to their first owners in the 1970s by Sultan Qaboos in person as a token of gratitude for services rendered. Colin Alexander Smith takes a very close look at the meaning behind these rare timepieces.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater ‘Romantic Note’
Originally set up by Vacheron Constantin to build custom or bespoke watches upon client commission – like this minimalist grand complication – Les Cabinotiers has undergone a subtle evolution since chief executive Louis Ferla took over in 2017. Les Cabinotiers now creates a small collection of one-off timepieces each year. Most are marketed to the firm’s top clients, typically at a luxe but low-key annual event, but a selection is launched at SIHH. This year’s Les Cabinotiers presentation is now taking place in Singapore, and amongst the watches unveiled is the graceful Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ‘Romantic Note’. The watch has a largish 41mm pink gold case in the style of the Traditionnelle line, which means straight, simple lines, giving it a fairly modern look. But the dial is eminently classical: eggshell-coloured fired enamel with all the markings, namely the railway minute track and numerals, done in black enamel, matched with Breguet-style hands. Reminiscent of the asymmetrical Historiques 1921, the dial is unusual in its typography – the numerals look like Breguet numerals but are not quite, instead they are slightly more italicised, with less line variation, and heavier in weight. The movement inside is the cal. 1731, the slim, hand-wound movement that’s also found in the regular-production Patrimony minute repeater. It features a centrifugal governor for the repeater. Key facts and price Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin ...
SJX Watches
Vault Introduces the V2 in Red Carbon-Ceramic Composite
Vault, a Swiss watch brand founded in 2013 by Mark Schwarz, has just unveiled the V2+ Red CC, a unique, left-handed variant of its unusual approach to time-telling. Inspired by a bank vault’s time lock mechanism – Mr Schwarz was both a police officer and banker earlier in his career – the brand’s watches feature a time display based on a planetary gear system, where each hour marker is actually a functioning planetary gear that travels around the dial. All of that ingenious mechanics is courtesy of UhrTeil, the complication and manufacturing outfit led by Andreas Strehler. Novel case material The new V2+ Red CC differs from earlier models with its left-handed crown and novel case material. The case is made of carbon-ceramic composite, which gives it the properties of both its constituent materials – the lightness and strength of carbon as well as the hardness of ceramic. Basically, ceramic is layered in between sheets of carbon, which is then submerged polymer and baked an autoclave to create the block of composite material. As a result, it retains the distinctive striped pattern of carbon composite. The tonneau-shaped case has a complex, multi-faceted design made up of five parts and is curved on two axis, allowing it to sit well on the wrist. It measures 39mm by 46.7mm and 15mm in height, which is thick but a necessity. That’s because the movement is essentially an automatic base calibre with a planetary display module on top. And as in the realm of such e...
WatchAdvice
A week with IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (Reference IW326802)
Released earlier this year at SIHH 2019, IWC’s latest collection of Spitfire pilots watches all feature for the first – time in-house manufactured calibres. With seven new references ranging from simple time-only functions, all the way to perpetual calendars, 2019 marked a significant year for the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, in bronze. Just a glance at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, and there’s no mistaking this bronze watches heritage, which draws inspiration from the original IWC Mark 11- a definitive Pilot’s watch, with legitimate military provenance. First Impressions If you’re on the hunt for a unique take on the iconic Pilot’s watch and want an in-house movement with impressive power-reserve, look no further. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a robust and well-proportioned take on the quintessential military classic. The Case The sandblasted bronze case serves up an interesting texture, and attractive take on bronze. The case is warm with a golden sheen, especially under sunlight, where it becomes quick playful with the light. As you might expect, the bronze case is designed to patina over time, and develop a distinctive look reflecting the owner’s wear pattern. The press piece provided was well worn, having already developed its own unique patina. And being bronze, after just a few weeks of wear, you’ll begin to notice the uniqueness and individuality present itself. The ...
Deployant
Quick visit: Petermann Bédat atelier in Renens
We were at the Lausanne area and decided to visit the Petermann Bédat atelier in the neighbourhood of Renes. Here is a quick look at their atelier.
Video