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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

A week with IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (Reference IW326802) WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire Nov 26, 2019

A week with IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (Reference IW326802)

Released earlier this year at SIHH 2019, IWC’s latest collection of Spitfire pilots watches all feature for the first – time in-house manufactured calibres. With seven new references ranging from simple time-only functions, all the way to perpetual calendars, 2019 marked a significant year for the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, in bronze. Just a glance at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, and there’s no mistaking this bronze watches heritage, which draws inspiration from the original IWC Mark 11- a definitive Pilot’s watch, with legitimate military provenance. First Impressions If you’re on the hunt for a unique take on the iconic Pilot’s watch and want an in-house movement with impressive power-reserve, look no further. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a robust and well-proportioned take on the quintessential military classic. The Case The sandblasted bronze case serves up an interesting texture, and attractive take on bronze. The case is warm with a golden sheen, especially under sunlight, where it becomes quick playful with the light. As you might expect, the bronze case is designed to patina over time, and develop a distinctive look reflecting the owner’s wear pattern. The press piece provided was well worn, having already developed its own unique patina. And being bronze, after just a few weeks of wear, you’ll begin to notice the uniqueness and individuality present itself. The ...

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir California PAM 931 & Radiomir  8 Days PAM 992 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Nov 19, 2019

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir California PAM 931 & Radiomir 8 Days PAM 992

Panerai’s new launches this year have so far been inclined towards civilian sports – including the Luna Rossa trio and Mike Horn edition – which is a key part of chief executive Jean-Marc Pontroué’s strategy that also emphasises “experiences”. But with its two new launches – the Radiomir California 47mm (PAM 931) and Radiomir 8 Days 45mm (PAM 992) – the brand returns to the old school Marina Militare style – both have a familiar look that’s heavily inspired by wristwatches Panerai made for frogmen of the Italian navy in the 1930s and 1940s. Radiomir California 47mm PAM00931 Notably, both watches have steel cases with an “aged patina effect”, essentially a surface coating that reproduces the look of the vintage originals. The Radiomir California 47mm (PAM00931) revisits a design that Panerai has reproduced several times in the past – modelled on the ref. 3646 of the 1930s – but now with a “tropical” dial in graduated brown that mimics the look of aged dials on vintage Radiomir watches. It has Roman numerals on the upper half and Arabic numbers on the bottom, a design originally meant to aid legibility by clearly distinguishing the upper and lower halves of the dial. The crystal is domed PlexiGlas, while the movement is the extra-large, hand-wound P.3000 with a three-day power reserve. The second model is slightly more interesting, since the design is more novel (in other words having not been done before, at least in the exact same con...

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military 1938 SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Nov 14, 2019

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military 1938

Following the recent Heritage Classic with a “sector” dial, Longines continues to churn out compellingly-priced, well-conceived remakes with the Heritage Military 1938. Limited to 1938 pieces, the watch is modelled on the ref. 4092, an oversized military watch produced by Longines just before the Second World War. Such watches were often made for the firm’s agents in Eastern Europe, most prominently Zipper in Poland. The original watch from 1938 (left) and the modern reissue (right) Like the original, the Heritage Military 1938 has a 43mm stainless-steel case topped by a domed sapphire crystal, which is pretty much the only obviously modern element of the watch.  The rest is pretty much faithful to the original, right down to the typeface of the logo and numerals, even on the sub-dial. Crucially – traditionalists will surely approve – the remake is hand-wound like the original, in contrast to most other Longines remakes that are self-winding. The case has a polished top surface on the lugs and bezel, with a contrasting brushed case band. And the matte black dial features a railway minutes track, along with sans-serif Arabic numerals and baton-shaped hands filled with cream-coloured Super-Luminova to mimic the aged appearance of the radium “lume” on the original. And because the watch is powered by the suitably large ETA Unitas 6498-1 that fills the case, the small seconds is correctly positioned, sitting a distance from the central axis and close to the bot...

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Military 1938 Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Military 1938 Longines Nov 13, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Military 1938

Longines is on an absolute roll in 2019, and it seems like only yesterday that we were treated to one of their hottest watches of the year – the sector dial Longines Heritage Classic. Not wanting to rest on its blue-handed laurels, Longines has just dropped this bombshell of a vintage reissue, and they’re calling … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Military 1938 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019 Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2019

The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019

Well, it’s been another successful year for what many in the horological world refer to as (much to the chagrin of Time+Tide’s Nicholas Kenyon) the “Oscars of the watchmaking industry”. And, much like Hollywood’s most revered awards ceremony, there’s been more than a few upsets at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, across quite … ContinuedThe post The 3 biggest upsets of GPHG 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked Nov 7, 2019

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

At Only Watch 2017, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black ceramic – but with a one-off blue dial – sold for a whopping 800,000 Swiss francs, with two phone bidders driving it to nearly seven times the high estimate. It was the third most expensive watch in the sale. This year’s contribution is no Royal Oak – far from it – but it’s surprisingly worthy of a second look. In fact, it’s probably the best-looking watch to emerge from the brand’s often criticised Code 11.59 line. Amidst the flak heaped upon it, the Code 11.59 range had a couple of standouts, including the Tourbillon Openworked. And that’s where AP started for Only Watch 2019. The Tourbillon Openworked Only Watch retains the slim, beautifully finished skeleton movement, eschewing the contentious Code 11.59 dial altogether. And the movement has a two-tone finish that smartly highlights the most important mechanical components. To match the movement, the Only Watch edition features a two-tone case that does justice to the Code 11.59 construction in a way the uniform colour of the standard models simply couldn’t. Superbly constructed In terms of size, the case is identical to the standard model – 41mm by 10.7mm. Beyond immediate impressions, the case is wonderfully constructed with a subtle and intriguing mix of shapes and finishing made obvious by the two-tone materials. The octagonal case middle is pink gold, while the rest of the case, including the lugs, are white gold,...

VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 5177 Nov 5, 2019

VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177

Of all of the high-quality, well-finished and technically impressive Breguet watches, it is probably the Breguet Classique 5177 that you think of when you consider modern watches from the brand, and there’s a very good reason for that. Its spartan conservatism forces you to look for any notes of flair or extravagance, and you’re rewarded … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT We have Nov 5, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT

We have recommended taking a look at the master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin deconstructing various watches in the past, and that’s because how interesting it is to get a proper look into some of the most popular watches out there. What makes this deconstruction by Peter interesting is that it is with the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Editor’s note Nov 4, 2019

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Editor’s note: A couple of years ago, Andrew and the team were lucky enough to travel to Lord Howe Island to explore the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection and, in the process, enjoy the unbelievable scenery of volcanic spires and fish-filled shallows. While the setting was one of the most remarkable on earth, the focus was … ContinuedThe post Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Battle-ready beginnings of the Blancpain dive watch Time+Tide
Blancpain dive watch Editor’s note Nov 3, 2019

Battle-ready beginnings of the Blancpain dive watch

Editor’s note: Blancpain have been looking into their rich trove of dive watch archives to great success recently, reviving a number of classics that we have covered here, and here, as well as producing a stunning unique piece for Only Watch 2019 that James took a closer look at. But for those who might be … ContinuedThe post Battle-ready beginnings of the Blancpain dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches Nov 2, 2019

Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches

This year we were lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the TAG Heuer Monaco. It was in the last year of the 1960s that the brand (just Heuer at the time) released their iconic watch that was one of the first ever automatic chronographs, and was cemented as a legend when it was … ContinuedThe post Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition Oct 30, 2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer has unveiled the fifth and final iteration of its limited edition series of timepieces celebrating 50 years of the heroic Monaco wristwatch. Like the rest of the limited-run watches, which each celebrate a separate decade in the history of the Monaco since its inception in 1969, the 2009-2019 example will be limited to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Will The Future Wristwatch Offer Millennials, Generation X, And Baby Boomers That Other Devices Cannot? A Generational Migration Of Timekeeping Examined – Reprise Quill & Pad
Oct 27, 2019

What Will The Future Wristwatch Offer Millennials, Generation X, And Baby Boomers That Other Devices Cannot? A Generational Migration Of Timekeeping Examined – Reprise

How many years before we even start to recognize what the most popular timekeeping devices over the last 70 years were? Another 20 years? Forty? Who will use timekeepers? And for what purposes? What will they look like? I posed these questions to a few top watch industry professionals; their replies were perhaps surprising.

Glashütte Original Introduces the Seventies Chronograph Limited Edition SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Oct 21, 2019

Glashütte Original Introduces the Seventies Chronograph Limited Edition

First introduced five years ago with dials in solid, metallic colours, Glashütte Original has jazzed up the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date with fumé dials featuring a graduated finish. Available either in green or grey fumé, the new edition is limited to 100 pieces each. Like the Sixties range of more classically shaped watches, the Seventies is a heavily retro line inspired by the experimental decade that’s best remembered for the birth of the luxury-sports-watch (and not much else, at least for now). The Seventies watches are typical of that decade’s style, characterised by square, stainless-steel cases and integrated bracelets. The chronograph has a television-shaped case that measures a chunky 40mm wide and 14.1mm in height. Like all of Glashütte Original’s recent, interesting dials, the fumé dials are produced by the former Th. Muller dial factory in Pforzheim that’s owned by its parent, the Swatch Group. Creating the smoked finish starts with the decorative sunray brushing applied to a German silver dial base with a rotating brass brush. The base then undergoes galvanisation before several coats of green or grey lacquer are applied. And finally, to achieve the graduated finish that darkens towards the edges, black lacquer is carefully applied to the edges with a spray gun, creating a slightly irregular dark border, then it is dried in a kiln. Mechanically, the watches are identical to the stock models; they are powered by the automatic chronograph...

Swatch Inaugurates New Headquarters in Biel SJX Watches
Longines Oct 19, 2019

Swatch Inaugurates New Headquarters in Biel

A long snaking building that stretches some 240m, the new Swatch headquarters in Biel, or Bienne in French, is the culmination of five years of work. Selling about 9.5m watches a year for about 450m Swiss francs of revenue, according to Swiss bank Vontobel, Swatch was the foundational company of its parent, the aptly named Swatch Group, which also owns Omega and Longines. Like many of its parent company’s recent projects, the Swatch building was designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, the 2014 Pritzker Prize winner who is best known for his works of wood or paper, as well as his temporary structures for humanitarian aid. Its new home is covered in a honeycomb timber grid that incorporates windows, nine balconies and solar panels. Visible from the inside is the Swatch logo, derived from the Swiss cross, incorporated into some of the grid’s cells. And hidden within the structure is a network of wires and cables for telecommunications, electricity and the like. The Swatch headquarters, with the Omega building at the far left The Swatch building ends in La Cite du Temps, which sits in front of the Omega factory and headquarters Shigeru Ban, Nayla Hayek, and Nick Hayek Jr at the opening ceremony on October 3, 2019 The glass-walled Swatch store in front of the new headquarters With the new headquarters in the background Light, flexible and sustainable, the timber beams used for the outer structure number some 4,600, all precisely cut to fit with join with each other per...

Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Military Oct 15, 2019

Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade

Editor’s note: From a purely real estate perspective, the dial is the most important part of the watch. It’s what you look at most of the time, and it’s the functional heart and soul of the watch. And while I’m willing to admit that other parts of the watch might play a role, let’s roll … ContinuedThe post Aten-shun! The Longines Heritage Military is on parade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Celebrating half a century with the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J Time+Tide
Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary Oct 12, 2019

Celebrating half a century with the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J

Fifty years ago, Seiko released one of the first ever automatic chronograph movements in a watershed moment in watchmaking. To mark the occasion, Seiko has released the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J, a watch that smartly dances the line between heritage and modern. We got a chance to take a closer look at the … ContinuedThe post Celebrating half a century with the Seiko Automatic Chronograph 50th Anniversary SRQ029J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Andersen Genève Montre à Tact for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Oct 11, 2019

In-Depth: Andersen Genève Montre à Tact for Only Watch 2019

Only Watch founder Luc Pettavino is a very persuasive man. Every two years, he manages to convince small watchmakers to risk neglecting paying customers, and instead to spend a lot of time and effort to exercise their creativity in building a one-off timepiece – and then give the resulting watch to the Only Watch charity auction. Most watchmakers regard it as an honour to be asked for a contribution, after all, the list of participants include boldface establishment names like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. While Luc also receives many offers from brands, he wants to curate an interesting mix of watches for each Only Watch auction, capped at a maximum of 50 watches or so each time – he alone decides what’s in and what’s out. A few brands have been dedicated supporters of the charity since the very beginning, and they are usually invited to return year after year. In the inaugural Only Watch auction in 2005, lot 1 was the unique Eros “Navigation Pleasure” wristwatch. It was the work of Andersen Genève, the brand founded by Svend Andersen, a 77-year old veteran independent watchmaker best known for co-founding the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). When Luc visited Svend at Baselworld earlier this year to solicit a contribution for Only Watch 2019, he received a swift “yes”. With the watch required to be finished for a world tour starting just three months after Baselworld, quick decisions were necessary a...

VIDEO: Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in full gold and bright blue Time+Tide
Blancpain s Fifty Fathoms Oct 7, 2019

VIDEO: Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in full gold and bright blue

The Fifty Fathoms is a stalwart of the dive watch, dating back to 1953. And, as you might expect, the watch has seen a few revisions over the years, including ones like this, that stretch the boundaries of a rough-and-ready tool watch.  Because a 45mm fully gold dive watch is a heck of a flex. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in full gold and bright blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.