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Fratello
Although 2025 is only three weeks old, Ming isn’t wasting time with the year’s first release. The 37.09 Uni has a familiar shape but ushers in a different look for the brand’s latest diver. Black-cased watches are increasingly popular, and today’s watch capitalizes on that trend. Last May, Ming introduced the 37.09 Bluefin, the brand’s […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 37.09 Uni Diver to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Was there ever any doubt that this was where this year was headed? Ever since it was announced that LVMH, and specifically TAG Heuer, would be taking over Formula 1 timekeeping responsibilities from Rolex as part of a broader 10-year partnership between the two, it was clear that 2025 would (for TAG Heuer) be all about racing. We just didn’t know what that would look like, at least when it came to the watches. Now we do, and surprise, surprise, TAG Heuer is kicking it off with a brand new generation of (what else?) The Formula 1 Chronograph. Motorsport and TAG Heuer have long been linked (something Zach recently explored), and one obvious example of this is the Formula 1. TAG Heuer launched the first generation of the Formula 1 way back in the ‘80s, and the simple, colorful, quartz watch helped to clearly establish a new sensibility for the brand. Since then, the Formula 1 has evolved, eschewing the almost toy-like quality of the earliest releases to bear the name and moving upmarket while still acting as the clear entry point into the brand’s chronograph offering - a quartz Formula 1 can still be had for under $2000, an almost shocking price tag in the context of the modern market. These new Formula 1s are a decided step up from those watches but still come in under the price of the latest generation of Carrera chronographs. The watches themselves are bold and clearly represent a step into a new generation of design language for the Formula 1 - a refreshing chan...
SJX Watches
Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...
Quill & Pad
Of all the questions Tim Mosso has been asked by other watch collectors, the most personal is the one that he has never answered in full. “What kind of watches do you like?”
Monochrome
While we won’t do the entire story of the Speedmaster once again here (look here for that), we can quickly talk about a complication that first appeared on this watch in 1985; the moonphase display… For a watch that went on the Moon and that is named the Moonwatch, it’s quite appropriate, don’t you think? […]
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Worn & Wound
Last year, when Ressence announced the Type 8, it was met with great excitement and surprise by their fans, including yours truly. A simpler and less expensive Ressence wasn’t something that seemed on the horizon. The watch was a stripped-down take on the seemingly magical Ressence display, reduced to hours and minutes. A lack of numerals, matched with an expansive, heavily domed dial, gave the Type 8 a different mood from Ressence’s other watches. Rather than leaning toward the technical, they felt meditative, which is perhaps to say, they felt less about the engineering and more about the resulting experience. I shared my thoughts in a review you can read here. A year and a half or so later, Ressence has dropped one of the biggest surprises of 2024: a follow-up to the Type 8, which is logically called the Type 9. This wasn’t at a big event like Geneva Watch Days or Watches and Wonders but rather a random week in December, making it even more unexpected. Adding to the shock, it’s another departure from the Ressence norm, featuring their most compact case, and yet continuing the simpler hours and minutes only dial. However, where the Type 8 felt like a radical change, the Type 9 feels more like a spin-off. It’s not a new story but a subplot or side quest. Perhaps, even an alternate take on the Type 8. Case Typically, with Ressence, the dial is the star of the show, but for the Type 9, it’s the case. The dial is special, too, but it feels like a variation on the...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Apple Watch Here’s a really neat piece and one I haven’t seen before. It’s a vintage original-logo Apple watch. Although this watch looks like it’s from the 80’s, MacOS wasn’t released until 1999, and with the MacOS logo on the original rubber strap, I’m guessing that’s when this watch was released. It has a cool multicolor hands and bezel setup that matches the six color Apple logo. Very unique design with what looks like a blue anodized bezel and integrated hidden lugs with the crazy shaped hands. And the original rubber strap with blue buckle and MacOS logo on it. Great vintage Apple piece if you’re an Apple fan like me. View auction here 1950s Benrus This vintage 1950’s Benrus is super cool and in spectacular condition. The yellow gold fill tank style case has unique sculpted lugs giving it a look that really stands out. The fancy case is excellent with virtually no wearthrough that I can detect from the pictures. The crown is original and signed “Benrus”. The silver dial is about as clean as it gets with these types of 50’s watches and has the cool three color logo bar under the Benrus at 12 o’clock. The movement is clean and runs well per th...
Monochrome
Just as we do with watches at the end of the year, we also take a look back at a year of Petrolhead Corner goodness. Our weekly automotive stories are always a joy to write, and I hope you enjoy them, too. This year, we had the good fortune of not only writing about cars […]
Fratello
Lists - don’t you love ‘em? Well, I do. Unlike Lex, our resident Grinch, I love a good list. That should come as no surprise, though, as I am Fratello’s in-house list fanatic. It was interesting to read that Lex likes to look forward to what’s to come rather than looking back at what has […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2024 - Jorg’s Picks From Rexhep Rexhepi, Zenith, Tudor, And More to read the full article.
Fratello
Sometimes the little chores in life feel like herculean tasks, don’t they? I’m not just talking about lubricating that squeaky hinge on the front door; I’m also referring to taking your beloved watch to a watchmaker for some love and attention. I know what I’m talking about. Not only does the hinge of my front […] Visit Reunited With My Grand Seiko Tough Quartz SBGX341 - Back From A Long-Overdue Watch “Onsen” Session to read the full article.
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Monochrome
Six years ago, Robin wrote about Michiel Holthinrichs, an up-and-coming young Dutch architect-turned-watchmaker using 3D printing techniques to create his cases. The result, with its raw industrial finish, can be appreciated on Holthinrich’s second watch with its grainy concrete textures, although other cases were partially polished and hand-finished for a more refined look. Given the […]
SJX Watches
At the dawn of the 20th century, Brazil’s cities were brimming with energy, driven by booming commodity markets. In Rio de Janeiro, trams clattered along bustling streets while conversations about ambition and progress filled the air in crowded cafés. Few aspirations were as compelling for the growing middle class, eager to leave their mark in this modernising world, as owning European luxury goods. And among these, nothing spoke of sophistication and success quite like a fine watch. For many Brazilians, timepieces from brands like Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin were the ultimate symbols of precision and craftsmanship. Yet, their presence was confined to gleaming shop windows along the most prestigious shopping streets, tantalising but out of reach for all but the wealthiest. The dream of owning one of these masterpieces seemed no closer than the distant European watchmaking centres where they were crafted. But Brazil found a way to close this gap. Here, the concept of watch clubs took shape-an innovative model blending weekly instalments with the thrill of a lottery draw. This system turned the unattainable into something not just possible but accessible. Spearheaded by visionary retailers and embraced by Europe’s finest watchmakers, the clubs reflected Brazil’s unique ability to adapt global trends to its local reality. Three retailers organised the most iconic watch clubs and positioned themselves at the forefront of this movement: G...
Worn & Wound
On a new release calendar that’s full of limited edition collaborations that don’t always make a ton of logical sense, it’s refreshing to see one come across our desks that feels like a genuine meeting of the minds. Oak & Oscar is a longtime fixture in the micro/independent brand space, and at this point it’s fair to say that they’ve carved out a pretty recognizable niche for themselves. When you think of Oak & Oscar, you probably immediately think of the brand’s midwest roots, a love of the outdoors, and, of course, bourbon. Their latest release, a 50 piece limited collaboration with the St. Louis County Rescue Squad, combines at least two of these ideas, and the result is a handsome, sporty GMT that first right in Oak & Oscar’s wheelhouse. For context, the St. Louis County Rescue Squad is made up of volunteers who provide lifesaving services to outdoor enthusiasts visiting northern Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA). As Oak & Oscar explains, the BWCA is an “outdoor-lover’s dream,” featuring hiking trails, camping, canoeing, and more. Oak & Oscar became a member of the Boundary Waters Business Coalition in 2021, a sign of their commitment to the preservation of the BWCA. To that end, the new Humboldt GMT SAR Edition serves as a reminder of that commitment, as well as a means to help fund the efforts of the St. Louis County Rescue Squad (a portion of the proceeds from the sale of these watches will be donated to the Squad). This new lim...
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! It’s December, so we are rapidly approaching the year’s end. Like every year, we will be looking back at some of our favorite watches. This first list is a summary of some of the surprising releases of the last 12 months. And by “surprising,” we don’t just mean stellar surprises. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Watches Of 2024 - Featuring Rolex, Patek Philippe, IWC, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
I have had a love-hate relationship with bronze-cased watches for years. I truly appreciate how the metal ages; there is nothing quite like a beautifully patinated watch just before it turns into a greenish hue. The beauty is that it never quite ages the same for everyone, and if you don’t like the results, a little lemon juice bath can have you start all over. My only issue is that I am a person who perspires quite a bit, and the bronze watches I have owned have been large honking divers. The latter would often transfer some of the patina goodness onto my arm, especially in the summer heat. Our friends from Baltic may have the solution I have been searching for: a non-honking bronze watch! Introducing the Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze, essentially a bronze version of their popular new series. As you may already know, Hermétique translates to “hermetic” in English, which means sealed tight. This is fitting for a watch with an impressive water resistance of 150 meters despite its elegant proportions and a thin push-pull crown that is recessed into the case. Another interesting aspect of this watch is that it is made of CuAl8 bronze, an alloy of copper and aluminum, as opposed to CuSn8, which is bronze and tin. The former, known as aluminum gold or gold bronze, is strong, corrosion-resistant, and pale gold in color. It resists tarnishing and corrosion in both air and seawater, withstands oxidation at high temperatures, and shows low reactivity with sulfurous compou...
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Fratello
Have we left the Bronze Age behind us and entered the Stone Age? It seems 2024 has been the year of stone dials. That doesn’t mean bronze watches have disappeared, but what once seemed like a rushing stream of new bronze timepieces has died down quite a bit. Still, we have seen some great additions […] Visit Hands-On With The Stylish New Baltic Hermétique Tourer Bronze to read the full article.
Monochrome
Jacques Bianchi is a French watchmaker based in Marseille. He’s been in the business for over five decades, working with the French military and names like Jacques Cousteau. A notable piece was the JB300 diver from the 1990s, produced in a total run of 1,000 for the French Army’s combat divers. The new JB300 isn’t […]
Fratello
Today, we’ll look at the new Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage. This is a limited-edition watch celebrating the 16th anniversary of the brand’s revival. As always with Moritz Grossmann, the focus is on finishing and mechanical prowess. For fans of Moritz Grossmann watches, the new Enamel Roman Vintage isn’t a new model. It’s a variant […] Visit Sweet 16: The Moritz Grossmann Enamel Roman Vintage to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Bond doesn't have to keep the secret anymore, the new black (and silver) no-date Seamaster 300M is here, but it's not exactly what we expected from the leak.
Quill & Pad
Why is it that watch brands celebrate watch anniversaries so enthusiastically? The answer isn't as complicated as you might think . . . here we illustrate the answer with some major brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Chanel, and Omega.
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SJX Watches
Having covered independent watchmaking and metiers d’art highlights at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now look at timepieces that aren’t wristwatches. The Hong Kong sale is a two-part affair: a theme sale focused on timepieces of Japanese origin christened Toki, and the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Both include a notable number of pocket watches and clocks across the spectrum of style and periods, from an iconic Cartier Model A mystery clock in rock crystal to the Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI lot 60 – Breguet digital jumping hours pocket watch This uncommon Breguet pocket watch with a two-tone case was sold in 1926 to a certain Mitoui T.K. for the sum on 16,000 French francs. This was a period when Breguet was making few timepieces, making watches from this era, especially complicated ones, relatively uncommon. With elegantly angled cutouts for the hour and minutes, the jumping hour display makes this watch a rarity. Similarly displays were found on wrist- and pocket watches of the time, including the Cartier Tank à Guichet. This particular piece does not bear the classic Breguet style, like the coin-edged case band or engine-turned dial. The style, however, is typical of the 1920s, though the two-tone case makes it unusual. This watch was made in France, since this was produced well before the brand’s move to the Swiss Vallée de Joux in the 1970s. The white-and-pink-gold 45 mm c...
Monochrome
While I’m no expert on the subject of Mil-Spec watches, or military-related timing instruments in general, I do know instantly if I like a watch or not. And every now and then a watch comes along that wins me over with its first impression, only to be disappointed when I see it in real life […]
Monochrome
Normally, I don’t get overly excited by an electric car, especially when talking about the run-of-the-mill electric SUVs that flood our streets these days. The lack of sounds, vibrations, the smell of gasoline being burnt… that sort of thing. But when a manufacturer takes one to the tracks or modifies it with that intent, things […]
Fratello
The Ebel 1911 Globe you see here is one of the most divisive watches we’ve had in the office lately. Only Robert-Jan and I like this glorious piece of late-1980s design brilliance, so it won’t surprise you that I volunteered to review the watch. Besides the fact that I like the flashy presence, it awakens […] Visit Hands-On With The Flashy Two-Tone Ebel 1911 Globe to read the full article.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at the Rolex Milgauss, the oddball engineer’s watch that first came out in the 1950s, just like many of The Crown’s classics. But unlike the Submariner and the GMT-Master, the Milgauss hasn’t always been part of the brand’s collection since then. It’s part of the reason we […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Milgauss Models to read the full article.
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