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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby Hodinkee
Longines has been 2 days ago

Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The 152nd Kentucky Derby

Each spring for the last 152 years, 20 of the fastest horses in the country line up to run at legendary Churchill Downs racetrack in Louisville, Kentucky. In the two minutes that follow, the world holds its breath, watching as history unfolds. For the past 15 years, Swiss watchmaker Longines has been the official timekeeper of the Kentucky Derby and, in 2013, became the title sponsor of the Kentucky Oaks, which takes place the day before. It's a weekend of splendor that has transcended the equestrian world, becoming the social event of the season. Longines Spirit Pilot Flyback Chronograph and Primaluna Moonphase. Longines' legacy in the equestrian world predates the derby itself, with the brand producing pocket watches and chronographs featuring equestrian motifs as early as 1869. Their chronographs were later utilized by racecourses towards the end of the 1800s. From there, Longines has been involved in nearly every aspect of competitive horsemanship throughout the 20th and now into the 21st century, from flat racing to Show Jumping, Dressage, and Eventing, serving as the official timekeeper and sponsor of some of the most prestigious competitions in the world. Georgia Benjamin's (@Georgiabenj) watch dial themed hat for the Kentucky Oaks. The Kentucky Derby, which this year boasted its highest viewership in history with nearly 20 million viewers, has been held at the historic Churchill Downs racetrack since its inception. There have been many historic races over the past ...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Paul Pessagno Worn & Wound
2 days ago

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Paul Pessagno

After a bit of a break, 3 for $5k is back! The reader edition of this series has always been a favorite, as it allows Worn & Wound’s audience to chime in on the watches they own, or would buy, with a hypothetical $5,000 budget. The fun with these is always in the approach, and today we have a unique spin from reader Paul Pessagno. His Instagram handle is @bigwristwatchguy, which should give you an idea of his perspective on collecting. With a nearly 9 inch wrist, Paul sought out watches for this exercise that look appropriate on a big wrist, but still represent a balanced collecting philosophy.  Let us know what you think of Paul’s picks in the comments below, and stay tuned for future editions of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition. The modern watch industry has a clear darling right now, the 38mm to 40mm “sweet spot.” Brands are downsizing across the board, digging into their archives, and championing historically accurate, compact proportions. But having an 8.85 inch wrist fundamentally changes how a timepiece wears. When you fall outside the industry average, those celebrated mid-century dimensions can easily end up looking less like a serious horological instrument and more like a vintage toy.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Paul Pessagno (@bigwristwatchguy) Building a versatile three watch rotation presents a unique challenge for the larger wristed collector. A great collection isn’t just about stubbornly picking the bi...

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Introducing – The New MeisterSinger Souscription Panthero Jumping Hour Guilloché Monochrome
Meistersinger Souscription Panthero Jumping Hour 3 days ago

Introducing – The New MeisterSinger Souscription Panthero Jumping Hour Guilloché

With the Panthero Jumping Hour presented earlier this year, MeisterSinger proved that even within its restrained philosophy, there is room for technical expression. Now, with the new Souscription Panthero Jumping Hour Guilloché, the brand takes another interesting step. The subscription idea dates to the 18th century, when watchmakers would produce a watch only after a […]

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Fratello Talks: There Are No Tool Watches Above €500 Fratello
Breitling Navitimer using it 3 days ago

Fratello Talks: There Are No Tool Watches Above €500

Mechanical watches were once essential tools for pilots, divers, scientists, race car drivers, etc. You’ve probably seen the advertisements in old National Geographic magazines, showing spelunkers proudly wearing their Rolex Explorers or a pilot checking his Breitling Navitimer, using it to calculate fuel consumption. For many years (decades) now, this has been handled digitally, as […] Visit Fratello Talks: There Are No Tool Watches Above €500 to read the full article.

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Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions Fratello
Seiko Celebrates 3 days ago

Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions

To celebrate Seiko’s 145th anniversary, the Japanese brand has created a series of watches featuring a nice combination of blue and white. The series pays tribute to Seiko Blue, resulting in some surprisingly fresh creations. The new Seiko Prospex HBC005 and HBB001 limited editions proudly sport a crisp white dial with a vibrant blue bezel. […] Visit Seiko Celebrates Its 145th Anniversary With The Prospex HBC005 And HBB001 Limited Editions to read the full article.

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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal 3 days ago

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”

The Vacheron Constantin (VC) Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points” was one of the most talked about releases of Watches & Wonders — despite being a somewhat predictable, incremental upgrade to an existing model. The response is indicative of strong product/market fit and the transformative power of colour and texture. Initial thoughts By all accounts, the Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V should have been the talk of the VC booth at Watches & Wonders. The copper-dialled platinum edition recalls one of the most sought-after models in the Overseas canon, and introduced a new micro-rotor movement that feels destined to be a big part of the brand’s movement strategy going forward. But it was the Overseas Dual Time that seemed to get people talking, despite its predictability and the fact that it’s a much more incremental update to an existing model. In my view, there are three reasons for this. First and foremost, it’s a perfectly targeted product, aimed at a well of unmet demand that has been simmering since the the titanium Dual Time was first teased seven years ago. The high/low contrast between the industrial-haute horlogerie build quality and the sporty aesthetic is inherently appealing. In some ways it feels like the perfect watch for locales like Sun Valley or Davos — the dual-time functionality is purpose-built for vacations (and economic forums) and the colours and textures will pair well with Mammut or Patagonia. Second, all four editions — named for the ...

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Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Bay Area Weekend Yet Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant 3 days ago

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Bay Area Weekend Yet

If there was any doubt that Windup Watch Fair San Francisco had evolved into something far bigger than a traditional watch show, this past weekend erased it completely. Over three unforgettable days at Fort Mason’s Gateway Pavilion, over 7,000 enthusiasts, collectors, first-timers, industry veterans, and curious passersby packed the waterfront for what became our most ambitious and experiential Windup San Francisco to date. Watches were still the heart of it all, of course, but this year the Fair expanded in every direction imaginable: panels, parties, padel, live art, whisky tastings, DIY watchmaking, EV Broncos, giveaways, podcast recordings, and more all combined into a weekend that felt less like a trade show and more like a full-scale enthusiast festival. None of this would have been possible without the support of our incredible Lead Sponsors: Bremont, Brew, Christopher Ward, Frederique Constant, and Oris, all of whom helped bring new energy, new releases, and memorable experiences to this year’s Fair. From Bremont’s rugged space-watch presence to Christopher Ward’s endlessly crowd-drawing Bel Canto conversations, from Frederique Constant’s padel panel and activation to Brew’s playful industrial design language, and not to mention Oris celebrating 60 years of mechanical freedom—each Lead Sponsor helped define the personality of the weekend in a different way. The show floor itself was nonstop from open to close every day. Approximately 90 brands from ar...

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito Hodinkee
Grand Seiko 3 days ago

The Business of Watches Podcast: Seiko Watch Corporation President Akio Naito

This week on The Business of Watches, we sit down with Akio Naito, the President of Seiko Watch Corporation. Seiko's Credor brand, the ultra-premium offering showcasing artisanal creations, unique craftsmanship, and design, made its Watches and Wonders debut this year. We discuss Credor's positioning within the Seiko Group and its expansion into international markets. Photo credit: Mark Kauzlarich The biggest challenge for Credor, Naito says, will be increasing production for more markets, as the skills required to produce the timepieces are highly specialized and take years to master. We also get an update on Grand Seiko. Naito says the brand has increased its international sales by more than 15x over the past decade, driven largely by success in the U.S. market. Grand Seiko is continuing to update and improve its offerings, including a new ultra-accurate and ultra-luxurious dive watch in a more compact size that clients have been asking for. We also hear about the growing interest and awareness of Grand Seiko's class-leading 9F quartz movement technology, which is increasingly popular with some clients. But first, Hodinkee Senior Editor Mark Kauzlarich drops in for a fresh analysis on some of the record watch auction results from the spring sessions in Geneva. Pocket watches were hot, Journe was surging, and Patek showed continued strength with a record result for a rare Patek 2523. So what isn't hot right now? Tune in to find out.  There's plenty of watch business and...

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Introducing – The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm, Now in Rose Gold Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm 3 days ago

Introducing – The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm, Now in Rose Gold

Parmigiani Fleurier’s luxury sports watch collection, the Tonda PF, got off to a flying start with the release of not one but two chronographs in its inaugural 2021 lineup. Led by the refined Split Seconds in platinum and the high-frequency COSC-certified integrated manufacture movement powering the steel Tonda PF Chronograph, the collection may be understated […]

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The Surprising Royal Pop from Swatch and Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet AP 4 days ago

The Surprising Royal Pop from Swatch and Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet (AP) and Swatch have teamed up to launch the Royal Pop, a series of lanyard-borne pocket swatches in eight pop art-inspired colourways set to hit stores on May 16th. It also debuts new manually wound Sistem 51 movements, including one with small seconds, to capture the pocket watch feel. This could be seen as AP having a little fun on a project set in motion by a Swatch-obsessed former CEO, or long-term thinking to cultivate the next generation of customers. Initial thoughts I imagine ambivalence will define the general reaction to the Royal Pop, as it should. A pop art-inspired pocket Swatch is a challenging product to casual watch buyers and enthusiasts alike. And I mean that as praise — it would have been much easier to go the MoonSwatch or Scuba Fifty Fathoms route, but much less interesting. Ref. SSX03L101N. Case in point, a non-enthusiast friend texted me over the weekend expressing interest in the Royal Pop under the common assumption that it would take after the MoonSwatch. In short, he was expecting a plastic Royal Oak. He was less enthusiastic — but not entirely put off — when I asked him how he’d feel about a manually wound pocket watch. Ref. SSX03R100N. While my favourite watches are overwhelmingly pocket watches (or pocket chronometers), I can’t see myself wearing one regularly, be it a Swatch Pop or a Nicole Nielsen tourbillon. I do, however, see myself attaching an Otg Roz Royal Pop to my keychain or workbag. Considering the recent ...

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Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions SJX Watches
4 days ago

Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions

In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, our founder SJX sat down with Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid to discuss the brand’s new releases, including the Saxonia Annual Calendar and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. They also touch on the brand’s philosophy around limited editions, the challenges of training watchmakers on new movements, and why Lange has no plans to enter the custom-order market. Watch now on YouTube.  

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Seiko Slims the Solar-Powered Astron SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 4 days ago

Seiko Slims the Solar-Powered Astron

Seiko is marking its 145th anniversary by continuing to push the envelope for high-end quartz. The Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph is a series of four new references featuring a new multi-function quartz calibre, a streamlined case, and a push-button interchangeable strap system compatible with both the standard titanium bracelet and a range of silicone straps. Initial thoughts Since 1969, Seiko has been at the forefront of quartz technology, and since 2012 the brand has commercialised a range of GPS-synced solar-powered quartz watches under the Astron banner — named in honour of the groundbreaking 1969 original. The contemporary Astron models have taken quartz timekeeping about as far as it can go. Left on it’s own, it’s not the most accurate quartz watch, but the satellite link keeps the time in sync with network time and automatically adjusts to local time when travelling. Reference HAB002. Given the amount of technology packed inside — including a solar power unit — the Astron has always been a big watch. At 43.4 mm, the new Dual-Time Chronograph is not a small watch, but at just 12.4 mm thick it’s about 1 mm thinner than its predecessor, which is a welcome improvement. The bigger news, however, is outside the case: a new interchangeable strap and bracelet system. Bracelets have long been an achilles heel for both Seiko and Grand Seiko. The latter made big strides this year with a new bracelet for the Spring Drive UFA Ushio 300 Diver, and now Seiko ...

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Get in Line: the Swatch x Audemars Piguet “Royal Pop” Arrives this Weekend Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Royal Pop” Arrives 4 days ago

Get in Line: the Swatch x Audemars Piguet “Royal Pop” Arrives this Weekend

Well, it’s here. After a great deal of speculation, Swatch and Audemars Piguet’s new “Royal Pop” collaboration has been unveiled. Only a few years ago, a partnership between Swatch, known mostly for inexpensive, colorful quartz watches that often serve as a gateway to a life of watch enthusiasm, and Audemars Piguet, a “Holy Trinity” brand that makes the Royal Oak, one of the most exclusive and coveted watches in the world, would have felt impossible. But the MoonSwatch changed all that, and now it seems like just about anything is possible in the world of high/low collaborations.  The first thing to point out is the very obvious fact that this is not a wristwatch. These are, in fact, pocket watches, in bioceramic Royal Oak shaped cases. There are eight watches in total in two different styles, and they are powered by manually sound SISTEM51 movements.  The Royal Oak design motifs are easy to identify here. Each has the expected “Petite Tapisserie” dial that the Royal Oak is known for, as well as an 8 sided bezel. They even included the hexagonal screws.  Let’s go through the multiple variants of the Royal Pop. First we have the “Lépine” style case, which has a crown located at the 12:00 position. There are six colorways of the Lépine style case: Otto Rosso (pink and red), Huit Blanc (white with rainbow accents), Green Eight (green on green), Orenji Hachi (navy with orange accents), Blaue Acht (lime green and light blue) and Ocho Negro (black and ...

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Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop — The Most Unexpected Swatch Collaboration Yet Fratello
Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop 4 days ago

Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop — The Most Unexpected Swatch Collaboration Yet

After weeks of teasing, today, we got an unexpected embargo lift on the Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop. Only a very few AI mock-ups were somewhat close to what Swatch has just released. And the young guys we saw on TikTok hoping to be sporting a very affordable Royal Oak on the wrist (or […] Visit Audemars Piguet × Swatch Royal Pop — The Most Unexpected Swatch Collaboration Yet to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" Collaboration Is Here, And It's Not A Wristwatch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Royal Pop Collaboration 4 days ago

Introducing: The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" Collaboration Is Here, And It's Not A Wristwatch

What We Know The cat is out of the bag on what is likely to be the biggest watch news of the year. The Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" just launched, ahead of its official availability on May 16, 2026, at selected Swatch stores. There are no wristwatches here, just eight unique pocket watches in two different styles, cased in brightly colored Royal Oak-shaped bioceramic cases, powered by manually wound mechanical SISTEM51 movements. Eight watches, for each side of the iconic Royal-Oak bezel. All the watches are instantly recognizable as Royal Oak-inspired. They have a "Petite Tapisserie" dial and a Royal Oak octagonal bezel with eight hexagonal screws. Every watch comes with a 40mm case (without the clip) and measures 44.2mm by 53.2mm when mounted in the clip. The thickness is 8.4mm. The hands and indices on all watches feature Grade-A Super-LumiNova.  The watches can be dropped in your pocket, worn in the pocket, or popped into a holder attached to a calfskin lanyard (in three lengths), attached to a bag, or placed in a removable stand that lets the watch function as a desk clock. Swatch and AP say this will change the way we wear watches, breaking free from the wrist (suggesting the expected wristwatch collaboration is unlikely at the moment). The new Swatch x Audemars Piguet "Royal Pop" comes in two main variants. There's the "Lépine" style, where the crown is at 12 o'clock on the pocket watch, which come in six varieties: Otto Rosso (pink case and dial with red ...

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Marathon Celebrates America’s 250th with a Limited Edition Pilot’s Navigator Worn & Wound
Ming 4 days ago

Marathon Celebrates America’s 250th with a Limited Edition Pilot’s Navigator

As many are likely well aware, 2026 marks the 250th anniversary of the signing of the Declaration of Independence, and as we approach the 4th of July, there are going to be a lot of reminders of America’s big birthday. The watch industry, as we know, loves an anniversary, and Marathon has gotten in on the act with the new edition of their Navigator pilot’s watch with a handful of patriotic nods to America’s founding.  Marathon has been supplying the Department of Defense and various branches of the United States military with MIL-SPEC watches for many years, and the Pilot’s Navigator in particular has special resonance within their collection as it was originally developed in partnership with Kelly Air Force Base in San Antonia, TX in 1986. It’s a signature watch for Marathon and directly tied to the Canadian brand’s longstanding relationship to the American military, so it serves as a natural canvas for a limited edition.  Various aesthetic features of the new Anthracite Stainless Steel Pilot’s Navigator have been inspired directly by the U.S. flag and the Star Spangled Banner. According to Marathon, the anthracite stainless steel case (coated in black ion-plating) is inspired by the line “the twilight’s last gleaming” in the national anthem. Similarly, the single red tritium tube at 12:00 is a reference to “the rockets’ red glare”. Lastly, a “1776” stamp can be found on the dial just under 12:00. It’s circled by stars, and a visual refer...

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Hands-On With The New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs HAB001, HAB002, HAB003, And Limited HAB004 Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time 4 days ago

Hands-On With The New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs HAB001, HAB002, HAB003, And Limited HAB004

A little over two years ago, Seiko introduced the first Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs. Following that, the brand gradually launched slightly updated versions featuring new materials and colors. For its 145th anniversary, Seiko revamped its Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs. With a new case and caliber, the series gets a proper update. The brand […] Visit Hands-On With The New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs HAB001, HAB002, HAB003, And Limited HAB004 to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series When 5 days ago

Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series

When discussing super-affordable entry-level watches with enthusiasts, the name Citizen Tsuyosa is likely to come up. Since the Japanese brand first unveiled the Tsuyosa in 2022, the line has become incredibly popular. Over the past four years, we have seen striking new dial variations of the inaugural 40mm versions, smaller 37mm variations, and a series […] Visit Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Series to read the full article.

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It's Official: Swatch and Audemars Piguet Are Planning A Collaboration Watch Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Are Planning 5 days ago

It's Official: Swatch and Audemars Piguet Are Planning A Collaboration Watch

Swatch is planning a collaboration with Audemars Piguet, expected to be one of the most significant and talked-about watch releases of the year. Swatch began teasing the tie-up last week with social media posts featuring the distinctive font associated with AP's iconic Royal Oak model and the words 'Royal' and 'Pop.' That led to hordes of speculation online that the brand was preparing a collaboration with AP. And then, over the weekend, the two marques confirmed that indeed they would be releasing the new product on May 16.  Many Swatch boutiques, including its main store in Geneva, are displaying boxes or chests (presumably holding the watch models) promoting the new Royal Pop collab, in much the same way they did with the Omega and Blancpain collaborations ahead of the launches.  An Audemars Piguet X Swatch chest in the window at a Swatch boutique in Geneva. So, what will the Audemars Piguet x Swatch watch be? Well, we simply don't know at this point, but there are plenty of clues suggesting what it could be. The 'Pop' model line from Swatch has been around for decades and has served as a fashion-forward way to reimagine timekeeping and watches. First introduced around 1986, the Swatch 'Pop' watches could be removed from their straps and 'popped' into various accessory holders. These ranged from pocket watch holders, chains, and lanyards to refrigerator magnets and even a RECCO-branded accessory holder/transmitter for avalanche safety.  A current, Swatch 'Pop' pocke...

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