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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Independent Watchmaking – Man of the Hour, an 8-Episode Horology Series Premiering on Discovery Channel Monochrome
Nov 7, 2025

Independent Watchmaking – Man of the Hour, an 8-Episode Horology Series Premiering on Discovery Channel

I guess this is a first… a proper documentary series on some of the best-known, most successful and coolest Independent watch brands. Industry veteran Wei Koh, founder of Revolution Magazine (among others), presents eight episodes featuring visits to watch brands and collectors, offering a glimpse into what these brands do and how collectors appreciate the […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Two-Tone Watches - Featuring Girard-Perregaux, Rolex, Sinn, And More… Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Rolex Sinn Nov 7, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Two-Tone Watches - Featuring Girard-Perregaux, Rolex, Sinn, And More…

Another Friday, another list! For this week, we prolong our series of lists focused on materials used for watch cases and bracelets. Whereas we covered modern ones over the past three weeks, today’s list focuses on a classic combination of materials. However, we deliberately chose to create a list of two-tone watches rather than just […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recently Released Two-Tone Watches - Featuring Girard-Perregaux, Rolex, Sinn, And More… to read the full article.

Introducing – A new Rose Gold Version of the Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase Monochrome
Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase It’s Nov 7, 2025

Introducing – A new Rose Gold Version of the Longines Master Chronograph Moonphase

It’s easy to almost exclusively think about Longines’ Heritage or Spirit models, for them to be visually attractive, vintage-inspired models with a lot of arguments for a seasoned crowd. Recent watches, such as the Ultra-Chron Classic, the Spirit Pilot Flyback or the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, have somehow stolen the show. There’s (much) more […]

Hands-On With The Stunning New Atelier Wen Inflection Fratello
Atelier Wen Nov 7, 2025

Hands-On With The Stunning New Atelier Wen Inflection

Truth be told, I’ve waited for a long time to talk about the new Atelier Wen Inflection. I first saw the watches this summer in London and again a month later in Geneva. Before we go further, it’s important to note that what you’re going to see represents a major shift for the brand. I’ve […] Visit Hands-On With The Stunning New Atelier Wen Inflection to read the full article.

Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors Fratello
Nov 7, 2025

Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors

The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments collection brings together the ancient Japanese art of Raden (inlaying of shell), traditional Vietnamese lacquer, and Swiss watchmaking. The dials comprise hand-laid mother-of-pearl fragments sealed beneath layers of natural lacquer. Offered in three limited editions (Green, Blue, and Pink), these watches showcase Awake’s mission to make metiers d’art available in […] Visit Introducing: The Awake Sơn Mài Fragments In Three Mesmeric Colors to read the full article.

In-Depth: Balancing Mainspring Dimensions Inside the Barrel SJX Watches
Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Concept Nov 7, 2025

In-Depth: Balancing Mainspring Dimensions Inside the Barrel

In a past story, we explained how multiple mainspring barrels can be paired in parallel or in series, for either lengthening a movement’s power reserve or increasing the torque discharged into the going train. In this article we expand on this topic to analyse the inside of the barrel by exploring how mainspring size balancing influences the torque output and power reserve.   Enthusiasts tend to throw around the loosely-defined term “mainspring packing” - especially when criticising a movement’s unsatisfying power reserve. This term refers to how a watchmaker can get a higher power reserve by balancing a spring’s dimensions and the space it occupies inside a barrel. While this sounds simple, the reality is more complicated.  Skeletonised barrel showing the tight coiled mainspring inside the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon Concept. In order to set the record straight, it’s necessary to analyse the topic thoroughly. This requires getting a bit technical, but an interpretation is included for those less interested in the underlying maths. This theory-heavy deep-dive tries to unravel the concept of mainspring packing and explores why optimisation is not a very straightforward business. The core elements This section covers the basics of mainspring and barrel geometry and establishes their relation with power reserve and torque. In order to see how specific dimensions affect both torque and power reserve, we will resort to some known functions and a little geometric...

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk Nov 6, 2025

Review: the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V

You have to hand it to Christopher Ward; they’ve been on a hell of a run. What was once a bit of an ‘also-ran’ brand with a stable of somewhat generic dive and dress watches has become a near-peerless independent powerhouse, turning out hit after hit and creating converts everywhere they (or at least their impressively enthusiastic team) go. Their latest offering, the C1 Jump Hour Mk V - released today - revives a complication with which the brand has a long history, and is sure to bring yet more converts to the fold. Now, despite a sense of increased affection for the English brand in the last few years and its general rise in popularity, I’ve not spent much time writing about Christopher Ward. I’ve also, outside of quick hits at Windup fairs and in passing moments, spent shockingly little hands-on time with the brand’s recent offerings. So when I was offered the chance to spend a few days with their latest release, I leapt at the opportunity, curious to see if I’d be pulled into the ranks of the converted, as so many of my colleagues at Worn & Wound have been. I’ve now spent much of the last week with the Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V on my wrist, and I have to admit, I’m somewhat smitten. The Christopher Ward JJ01 Jump hour watches have been having a bit of a moment in the sun recently, but they’re nothing new to Christopher Ward. The brand introduced its first jump hour watch all the way back in 2011. The brand’s foray into the jump hour ...

Hands-on – The Intellectual Allure of the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 6, 2025

Hands-on – The Intellectual Allure of the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold

In 2009, A. Lange & Söhne unveiled a timepiece unlike any other in the brand’s collection – past or post-resurrection. With no hands and a digital display powered by a mechanical heart, the Zeitwerk, translated from German as “time machine”, was the first mechanical wristwatch to feature a jumping digital display for hours and minutes. […]

Rolex Hulk Review: The All-Green Submariner Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Nov 6, 2025

Rolex Hulk Review: The All-Green Submariner

The Rolex “Hulk” Submariner is today one of the most collectible luxury sport watches on the secondary market, despite the fact that its green-on-green colorway was quite polarizing when it first hit retailers' shelves in 2010. The watch’s rise to legendary status, interestingly enough, followed a similar path to that of the Marvel character from which it derives its nickname. Here we explore the story of the Rolex “Hulk” and why it occupies a special chapter in the lore of iconic Rolex watches. Rolex Submariner Origins The Rolex Submariner famously arrived on the scene in 1953 but its roots reach much farther - to the historical, waterproof Oyster case that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf introduced way back in 1926. Named for its pioneering structure -  which combined two threaded, hermetically sealed “shells” that clamped tight to keep water from penetrating, along with a crown that screwed securely into the side of the case - the case achieved a water resistance never before achieved in watches. The Rolex Oyster case made its debut on a watch of the same name (below), and its waterproof design was improved over subsequent decades. Rolex supplied a version of its Oyster case to the Florence-based firm Panerai in the 1930s and ‘40s for use on the Radiomir, one of the very first wristwatches purpose-built for underwater use, worn by Italian military divers.  Fast forward to the early 1950s, and the growing popularity of scuba diving as a recreational p...

Introducing – The Horologically Unique HU-01, An Appealing, Accessible Watch Inspired by the Calatrava 96 Monochrome
Patek Philippe Calatrava 96 Nov 6, 2025

Introducing – The Horologically Unique HU-01, An Appealing, Accessible Watch Inspired by the Calatrava 96

If we had to name the one model that defined the concept of a dress watch, it would undoubtedly be the Patek Philippe Calatrava 96. This watch, when launched in the early 1930s, was rather revolutionary and has ever since been the blueprint for anything dress watch. Watch enthusiasts have long recognised its beauty and […]

Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Fragments Limited Editions Monochrome
Nov 6, 2025

Introducing – The New Awake Son Mai Fragments Limited Editions

Awake has built a clear identity around thoughtful materials and craft, moving from early eco-focused projects to last year’s Son Mai lineup, watches that brought traditional Hanoi lacquer work and silver-leaf dials into a permanent, Swiss-powered collection. The Fragments series is the next chapter: three limited editions that fuse Vietnamese Son Mai lacquer with mother-of-pearl […]

Tissot Forges Ahead with the PRX 38 mm in Damascus Steel SJX Watches
Tissot Forges Ahead Nov 6, 2025

Tissot Forges Ahead with the PRX 38 mm in Damascus Steel

In just four short years the Tissot PRX has become a runaway success, spawning variants in almost every imaginable size and colour, but the new PRX 38 mm in Damascus steel stands apart. The patterned case and dial give it a tactile, almost artisanal quality rarely seen at this price point, with randomised striations that make each watch unique. Priced at a reasonable premium compared to the standard model, the Damascus steel case and dial of the new PRX are the result of forging and folding multiple steel alloys, which are then etched with acid to reveal a distinctive texture. Initial thoughts The PRX has proven to be widely successful for Tissot, and is now available in countless sizes, colours, and materials. Many are forgettable, but a few stand out. The Damascus steel variant is among the latter. The new PRX in Damascus Steel is one of the best yet, especially in the nearly perfect 38 mm size that will fit well on just about every wrist, big or small. The patterned grey texture found on the case and dial is immediately appealing, and while a full Damascus steel bracelet would have been even better, the leather strap helps keep costs in check and avoids the trap of looking too busy. Like other PRX models, the Damascus steel edition features the Swatch Group’s signature Powermatic 80 movement, which offers a convenient 80 hour power reserve, which should last through the weekend for all but the most sedentary lifestyles. It’s not much to look at, but that’s alright...

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 - Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 Fratello
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs Nov 6, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 - Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026

As we continue our quest to find the definitive dress watch of 2025, it’s time for the fourth match of this first round of Fratello Dress Watch Season. Today, Nacho and Ben go head-to-head with two heritage-inspired contenders from Swatch Group brands. It’s the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 versus the Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 4 - Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Vs. Omega Seamaster 37mm Milano Cortina 2026 to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Modern Watches That Could Be Future Classics Fratello
Nov 6, 2025

Fratello Talks: Modern Watches That Could Be Future Classics

The pace of new watch releases has never been faster. Every week seems to bring a fresh wave of models vying for our attention. We’re certainly not complaining, but it does make us curious: which of today’s timepieces might one day become future classics? That’s the question at the heart of today’s episode of Fratello […] Visit Fratello Talks: Modern Watches That Could Be Future Classics to read the full article.

Tudor North Flag Review: Discontinued But Worth a Comeback? Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Nov 5, 2025

Tudor North Flag Review: Discontinued But Worth a Comeback?

We recently took a deep dive into the Tudor Ranger, and today, I’m going to go boldly forth and explore what I consider to be the Ranger’s spiritual sibling, albeit a discontinued one: the Tudor North Flag. Both watches have similar roots in 20th-century polar exploration, but while the Ranger looks to the past for its design codes, the North Flag, at its time, had its sights set on the future. While it marked a huge leap forward in Rolex-owned Tudor’s contemporary legacy and ultimately, further set the stage for the brand to finally come out of the looming shadow of the Crown, the North Flag has already become a relic of Tudor’s not-so-distant past. Down below, I’ll be taking you through a brief history lesson on the watch at hand, detailing the key design codes and features, and exploring why some vocal enthusiasts out there are begging for the North Flag to make a comeback.  Tudor North Flag History For most of the 20th century, Tudor leaned on its intrinsic connection to Rolex to boost its credibility, but by the 1990s, the brand’s reputation as Rolex’s “little brother” or “Rolex Lite” fell out of favor with the general watch-wearing public. Affordability as a guiding virtue was not, for lack of a better word, sexy anymore. Tudor had not differentiated itself enough from its more luxurious relative to stand effectively on its own, globally. The brand fled the U.S. market entirely in the late '90s, and it would spend over a decade working behind t...

Hands-on – Deciphering The Oil-Filled Ressence Type 3 BB2 (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Ressence Type 3 BB2 Incl Nov 5, 2025

Hands-on – Deciphering The Oil-Filled Ressence Type 3 BB2 (Incl. Video)

Dressed in all black, the Type 3 BB2 is the perfect representation of what independent watchmaker Ressence is all about. Founded in 2010 by industrial designer Benoit Mintiens, watches by Ressence are pretty much incomparable to anything else on the market thanks to the brand’s out-of-the-box thinking, technical innovation and no hands or crowns. In […]

TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs Fratello
TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Nov 5, 2025

TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs

Few names are as closely linked in motorsport-themed watchmaking as TAG Heuer and Ayrton Senna. The latest TAG Heuer Ayrton Senna editions continue that relationship with two Formula 1 chronographs that pay tribute to the Brazilian driver’s legacy. Rather than chasing nostalgia, these models acknowledge Senna’s influence with a modern interpretation. Both watches - one […] Visit TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs to read the full article.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 1518 Nov 5, 2025

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel

Many superlatives have been ascribed to what might be the most valuable watch this fall auction season – the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in stainless steel. Headlining Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva, the steel ref. 1518 is paradoxically extraordinary and ordinary all at once. As the first serially-produced perpetual calendar-chronograph wristwatch, the ref. 1518 is already a landmark Patek Philippe wristwatch, one that spawned a lineage that includes the refs. 2499, 3970, and 5970. And then there’s the ref. 1518 in steel – only four are known. The steel ref. 1518 has rarity, historical importance, and an eight-figure value; but on the wrist, this “holy grail” is compact, lightweight, and monochromatic, discreetly low-key. At a diminutive 35 mm in diameter, the ref. 1518 is small by today’s standards. The watch doesn’t look like much on the wrist from across a room; in fact, it isn’t immediately obvious to a layperson (or even a casual watch enthusiast) that the watch is worth more than most houses and vintage Ferraris. Yet the ref. 1518 in steel is appealing for many intellectual reasons: extreme rarity, historical lineage of the perpetual calendar chronograph, even sheer value. This is a trophy in many senses. Historically, the ref. 1518 was important even in its time. It was once Patek Philippe’s most complicated regular production wristwatch, and the steel ref. 1518 was likely the most expensive steel Patek Philippe when it was in the catalogue. ...

Introducing – The New, Futuristic Hamilton Ventura Edge Skeleton Monochrome
Hamilton Ventura Edge Skeleton Most Nov 5, 2025

Introducing – The New, Futuristic Hamilton Ventura Edge Skeleton

Most of us associate Hamilton with robust military field watches employed by the US Army during WWII and their successful second lease of life in the Khaki collections. One of the quirkier models to emerge from Hamilton’s American era was the Ventura, the world’s first publicly available battery-powered watch, with a crazy, futuristic, asymmetrical case […]

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGM255 Nov 5, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT

The Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257 bring two new dials to the classic Elegance Collection GMT. Both models preserve the 39.5mm stainless steel case and mechanical caliber 9S66 but introduce fresh dial designs inspired by the seasons. These new references serve up a restrained evolution of a design that has been a Grand Seiko cornerstone […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Sylvain Berneron – All In SJX Watches
Berneron Nov 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: Sylvain Berneron – All In

For episode 18 of the SJX Podcast, we sit down with Sylvain Berneron, founder of one of the most talked about new brands of the past few years. Fresh off the launch of the brand’s first complicated model, the Quantième Annuel, Mr Berneron breaks down what it takes to start a watch business and stay on pace to produce a new model every year. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 5, 2025

10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget

In the wild world of watches, the words “affordable” and “complicated” are most often mutually exclusive. The more complicated a piece is, I think, the more we all brace ourselves to expect the correlation of a dramatic surge in price. It’s par for the course. But in recent years, there have been some watchmakers out there that have dared to do the unexpected, to bring high complications down to the realm of mortal purchasing power. As always, measuring affordability remains a personal conundrum, but there is no denying that there are now options for perpetual calendars, jump hours, and the like that are now paired with a more easily digestible price tag.  In today’s guide, I’m tipping my hat to the various watch brands out there that have invested time and resources into leveling the playing field, crafting pieces of high horology that are more accessible than ever before. Across 10 pieces, we’re running the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is unique in its own way, and definitely worthy of your consideration if you’re looking for a complicated watch at a not-so-complicated price point.  Christopher Ward Bel Canto  Case: 41mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium Movement: Caliber FS01 Automatic Water Resistance: Price: Starts at $3,995 The only logical jumping off point for a guide such as this is with the watch that revolutionized haute-horology bells and whistles at an unheard-of price tag: the Bel Canto from British maker Christopher Ward. You’ve...

Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS I could Nov 4, 2025

Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS

I could make this a concise hands-on review. However, what I wanted to do when the Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) landed on my desk was answer the question of whether this would be the Speedmaster for me. Ever since Omega unveiled the Speedmaster FOiS, the watch has intrigued me. First, I love […] Visit Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS to read the full article.

Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Nov 4, 2025

Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes

If you’re celebrating 270 years of uninterrupted watchmaking history, you’ve seen it all, and sometimes you need to find new challenges to keep things exciting. A new collection of Les Cabinotiers timepieces titled La Quête (The Quest) keeps the watchmakers at the world’s longest continually operating watch brand on their toes and the collectors happy. […] Visit Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes to read the full article.

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Nov 4, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

This is the third match in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. The series continues with a beautiful and classical duo. Match three in round one sees RJ defending the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription in yellow gold and Mike making his case for […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P to read the full article.

J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock SJX Watches
Cartier Mystery Clock Philips’ upcoming Nov 4, 2025

J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock

Philips’ upcoming sale in Geneva from November 8-9 includes two timepieces owned by John Pierpont Morgan Jr., widely known as Jack Morgan. Heir to a financial empire, Morgan was the first chairman of what is now JPMorganChase, and more pertinently, inherited the sensibilities of his father, J. Pierpont Morgan Sr., in collecting and gifting. Morgan Sr. was a collector on a grand scale, and across categories. The catalogues of his collections spanned volumes – two books for Chinese porcelain, four for miniatures, and a single volume for his watches and clocks, albeit a 350-page tome that weighed almost 6 kg in its original edition. The penchant for collecting was passed on to Jack Morgan, who evidently had sharp tastes in watches and clocks. The two timepieces going on the block at Phillips illustrate that. One is the first-ever Cartier mystery clock, a Model A sold to Morgan in 1913. And the other is one example of the “Morgan caliper”,  a series of minute repeating, split-second chronograph, tourbillon pocket watches made for J.P. Morgan & Co., which were gifted by Morgan Sr. and Jack Morgan to the firm’s partners and important associates. Titans of finance In 1913, Louisiana senator Arsène Pujo formed the Pujo Committee to investigate the growing concentration of financial power in the United States. The committee found that an inner circle of partners at J.P. Morgan & Co. and its two largest proxies held 341 directorship positions across the boards of 34 majo...