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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
H. Moser Updates their Flying Hours Complication and Adds a Smoked Salmon Perpetual Calendar for Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
H. Moser Updates their Flying Hours Sep 8, 2025

H. Moser Updates their Flying Hours Complication and Adds a Smoked Salmon Perpetual Calendar for Geneva Watch Days

At last year’s Geneva Watch Days, H. Moser had one of the most talked about (and divisive) releases of the week, a splashy collaboration with Studio Underd0g that saw the high end and affordable indie sharing a passion fruit inspired colorway across a pair of watches, sold as a set. It generated a lot of opinions and was, for a time, one of the most buzzed about watches of the year. Moser returned to Geneva Watch Days this year with a slate of new releases that, I think, has succeeded in evading the kinds of hot takes we saw last year, while still, as always, being very “Moser.” The new Pioneer Flying Hours and Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in smoked salmon might not inspire heated opinion pieces from watch writers like yours truly, but they remain exciting in their own way in a year that’s already seen Moser push some boundaries and play with our expectations. The new reference in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar line is about as classic Moser as it gets. This dial color was first introduced in a Streamliner back in 2023, and was an immediate hit for the way it spun the traditional idea of a “salmon” dial into a new, more contemporary context. Less rosy pink and more of a metallic rust, this salmon dial has a reserved and almost autumnal presence that really suits the Endeavour, itself a more reserved and mature segment of the Moser lineup. The case of the perpetual calendar is white gold and measures 42mm in diameter, and wears extremely well, if not razor thi...

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Introducing – More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic Monochrome
Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic Since Sep 8, 2025

Introducing – More Refined, More Powerful… Meet the New Citizen Tsuyosa 60 Automatic

Since its introduction in 2022, the Tsuyosa collection by Citizen has become one of the brand’s bestselling models… And rightfully so. Combining a 1980s design inspiration with integrated sports watch vibes, an automatic movement and a very reasonable price tag, it’s a great entry-level proposition that has attracted a lot of newcomers to the brand […]

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Rolex Starbucks Submariner 126610LV Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Sep 8, 2025

Rolex Starbucks Submariner 126610LV Review

The Rolex Submariner Ref. 126610LV (or, the Rolex Starbucks, as it has come to be known) was released alongside an entirely updated Submariner collection during the peak pandemic days of late summer 2020. I’ll get into that broader collection update later, but the Starbucks was one of the more attention-grabbing Submariners, given how it went back to the original colorway of the first “Green Sub.” A little context for those not wholly ensconced in the minutae of niche watch references: the first of these was the Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610LV, which dates all the way back to 2003 when it was released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner. You may better know the 16610LV from its “Kermit” nickname due to its then-novel use of a vibrant green aluminum bezel. This watch was produced until 2010 and is beloved by collectors. One of my favorite instances of celebrity watch spotting was when I noticed Martin Scorsese wearing a Kermit during the filming of Killers of the Flower Moon back in 2023. Following the discontinuation of the Kermit, Rolex released the Submariner Ref. 116610LV in 2010. This model, of course, would go on to be dubbed the “Hulk,” courtesy of its green ceramic bezel and matching green dial. The Rolex Hulk debuted to hot demand alongside the Submariner Ref. 116610LN due to these being the first updated Submariners, with Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom ceramic bezel and Maxi case, to be made available in steel (the white-gold Submarin...

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Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Sep 8, 2025

Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch?

When Tudor released a new “Lagoon Blue” take on the Black Bay 54, I knew I had to get my hands on it. You see, Tudor is a brand I keep coming back to. Unlike Rolex, which pursues constant iterative improvement above all else, Tudor seems to get more leeway to experiment and play with […] Visit Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? to read the full article.

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One Week With The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 Fratello
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 During Sep 7, 2025

One Week With The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35

During Watches and Wonders this year, IWC announced the significant expansion of its Ingenieur line. We saw seven new references, including the one we’re looking at today, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 ref. IW324901, which retails for €11,300. Let’s dive in. IWC’s Ingenieur garnered considerable attention for the brand with the release of so many new […] Visit One Week With The IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35 to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77 Fratello
Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs Nivada Sep 7, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another showdown while the room fills with the smell of freshly made coffee. This week’s battle is all about affordable sports watches with integrated bracelets. Jorg has selected the new manual-winding Christoper Ward Twelve 660, which debuted last week, and Mike will take him on with the Nivada […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Christopher Ward Twelve 660 Vs. Nivada Grenchen F77 to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel Fratello
Berneron Sep 6, 2025

Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel

Independent watchmaking has a special kind of magic. It is where bold ideas meet artisanal execution, free from the constraints of mass production, design by committee, and shareholder interests. Few embody this spirit more convincingly than Sylvain Berneron, whose debut model, the 2023 Mirage, was met with instant critical acclaim. With his second creation, the […] Visit Introducing: The Innovative Berneron Quantième Annuel to read the full article.

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Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds Sep 5, 2025

Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds

The newest release by independent brand Furlan Marri adds a bit of bling to an out-of-this-world Art Deco staple. The brand teased their release of the new Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds this April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, after the success of the line’s initial debut last year (which was covered here by Zach Kazan). The addition of diamonds on watches is something I have thought about often. My existence as a woman in the watch world frequently demands a more honest reflection about the intersection of watches and jewelry, and where my preferences fit in. Diamonds can either elevate or detract from a watch as a whole. One of the perks of reviewing watches is that I get to experience a large variety of designs that push the boundaries of my comfort zone and expose me to references that cover a wide array of aesthetics. I’ve been able to wear teeny-tiny little somethings and classically-inspired beauties that often belie the usual style of my personal collection. Certainly, I consider myself a more critical and informed collector because of it.  Diamonds can be divisive – something I covered in my analysis of the release of the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds last year. I will be the first to admit that when I see “diamonds” in the name of a new watch, my defenses go up a bit and I brace myself for subtly garish wealth-signaling disguised as intentional design choices. But when it comes to the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds, I was so relieved to be pro...

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Introducing – The New Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium Since Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium

Since 2001, the Ulysse Nardin Freak has embodied the brand’s boldest ideas, breaking from convention through its orbital carousel construction and pioneering use of silicon. Over the years, it has taken on many forms, from highly complex to artistically playful, always remaining a platform for innovation. In 2019, the Freak X brought Ulysse Nardin’s vision […]

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Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review Teddy Baldassarre
Christopher Ward Sep 5, 2025

Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review

London-based watchmaker Christopher Ward has achieved the impossible in its relatively short number of years in the watch game, catapulting from if you know, you-know microbrand to one of the most continuously successful indie watch brands on the market. Its founding principles remain largely unchanged, though its scale has grown in the 24 years since its founding: make high-quality watches while cutting what could be called the luxury tax in the industry with a direct-to-consumer model. But there is one distinct product that put the brand on the map more than any other, and that was the introduction of its own chiming watch at an unheard-of price point, the Christopher Ward Bel Canto. As you might have already guessed by the article title, today, we’re taking a microscopic view of the C1 Bel Canto, exploring what has made the watch such a crowd-favorite, and how it holds up today, four years after its initial release.  Christopher Ward Bel Canto History As always, let us begin our horological journey with a history primer on Christopher Ward’s pathway to contemporary success. Luckily for you (and your dear writer), the brand doesn’t have as sweeping a history as many of the centuries-old watchmakers out there, so we can really dive into the microscopic view here. Christopher Ward, whom I would bestow the title of reigning King of Indie Watch Brands, has one of the scrappiest origin stories in the watch world. Founded in 2004 by the trio of Mike France, Peter Ellis,...

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Introducing – The Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control Monochrome
Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter Mission Control

In 2014, Oris unveiled the ProPilot Altimeter, a unique wristwatch that combined an automatic Swiss-made calibre with a mechanical altimeter. Following an update in 2023, that singular idea is revisited this year in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department, bringing fresh design and high-tech case construction to the ProPilot Altimeter. The result is the Oris x […]

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Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025 Fratello
Sep 5, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025

Another Friday, another list! This week, we will follow up on last week’s article on the brands to watch during Geneva Watch Days. We have seen many great releases from various brands in this super-busy week. Some are hyper-expensive timepieces with grail potential, while others are more affordable stunners from small brands. As a result, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025 to read the full article.

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Introducing – The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon in Platinum with a Black Enamel Dial Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

Introducing – The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon in Platinum with a Black Enamel Dial

While A. Lange & Söhne is the most esteemed and historic player on the Glashütte block with traditions reaching back to 1845, the brand hones its Saxon pragmatism by introducing ingenious and contemporary solutions to age-old problems. The 1815 Tourbillon, released in 2014, is a prime example. A classic to the core, the 1815 Tourbillon […]

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Precision in Pink: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

Precision in Pink: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds

A. Lange & Söhne has just unveiled the fourth livery for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, now featuring a pink gold dial. The Jumping Seconds made its debut in 2016, but its unusual feature set and harmonious layout remain impressive nine years later. The new model is a 100-piece limited edition in 18k white gold and features what collectors will no-doubt refer to as a ‘salmon’ dial. But unlike most ‘salmon’ dials that are plated, the dial of the Jumping Seconds is solid 18k pink gold. In other words, its colour is more than skin-deep. Initial thoughts Though it feels like we must be on the tail end of the trend toward salmon dials, Lange’s pink gold dials always look good and might stir up interest in what still feels like an underrated watch. Nearly a decade after launch, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds remains one of the great regulator-style wristwatches. There’s an extraordinary coherence at play between the design, which references a historical German pocket watch and elevates the deadbeat seconds display, and the movement, which features a one-second remontoir and a return-to-zero mechanism. As ever, the Jumping Seconds presents a wearable 39.9 mm case in 18k white gold, and at just 10.6 mm thick it’s pretty sleek for a watch with so much going on inside. Like its stablemates, it features the characteristic Lange case with a brushed case band and faceted lugs that are attached separately. The L094.1 movement fills the case beautifully, and differ...

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New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon

Coinciding with Geneva Watch Days 2025, Germany’s A. Lange & Söhne introduces two new variations of existing models. We get new variations of the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds and the 1815 Tourbillon, both made in very small numbers, and both adding subtle but significant updates. The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds comes in a pink-gold dial […] Visit New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon to read the full article.

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A. Lange & Söhne’s September slate pairs two studies in precision: a platinum 1815 Tourbillon plus a sultry salmon Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne’s September slate pairs two studies in precision: a platinum 1815 Tourbillon plus a sultry salmon Richard Lange Jumping Seconds

Lange unveils a1815 Tourbillon in 950 platinum and a Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in white gold to close off their 2025 releases.The post A. Lange & Söhne’s September slate pairs two studies in precision: a platinum 1815 Tourbillon plus a sultry salmon Richard Lange Jumping Seconds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker Fratello
Sep 5, 2025

CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker

Unless you have lived under a rock for four years, you have probably seen and read about the CIGA Design Blue Planet. The distinctive take on a modern watch garnered excitement from watch fans worldwide and won a GPHG award in 2021. We have seen multiple versions of CIGA Design’s remarkable titanium and stainless steel […] Visit CIGA Design Introduces The Remarkable Moon Walker to read the full article.

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Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter SJX Watches
Behrens Teams up Sep 4, 2025

Behrens Teams up With Vianney Halter

Behrens teams up with Vianney Halter for the bold, electric meter-inspired KWH Watch, in white or rose gold. A unit of measurement for electricity, KWH is short for “kilowatt-hour” and refers to the electric meter inspiration for the design. The extremely dense movement combines the brand’s chain-driven hour display with rotating minute and power reserve cylinders, and a surprise on the back. It also represents a new frontier for the Chinese brand, as its most expensive offering yet. Initial Thoughts While Behrens’ watches do not always appeal to me aesthetically, I think the brand is an ideal champion for Chinese watchmaking. Unlike some brands marketing Chinese-built watches to global enthusiasts, Behrens is Chinese owned and operated. The brand’s founder, Lin Bingqiang, cut his teeth making parts and custom modules in Shenzhen for brands down in Hong Kong before starting Behrens in 2012. An exploded view of the 870 part movement. Many Chinese manufacturers excel at the engineering and manufacturing side, but have weak soft skills and lack vision. Behrens is strong on all fronts, and this is the brand’s most ambitious, and expensive, project yet. The brand may be over-reliant on computer-generated imagery, but I can confirm these watches are real, functional, and doing the rounds at Geneva Watch Week. Case On the heels of a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin, Vianney Halter’s partnership is now with Behrens. This comes only days after Mr Halter’s coll...

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H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie has Sep 4, 2025

H. Moser & Cie. has a New Take on the Wandering Hours

Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. returns to a complication it once offered with the Pioneer Flying Hours, a new take on the wandering hours. The watch indicates the minutes on a central ring, while the hours seemingly jump from one window to the other. With this intriguing new display, the Flying Hours might just be being one of the most interesting jumping hours on the market.  Initial thoughts The Pioneer Flying Hours is not Moser’s first attempt at the wandering hours: the Endeavour Flying Hours was launched some seven years ago and an update on the historical complication. With new Pioneer, however, Moser manages to capture the mystique of both early wandering hours and mysterious clocks with its darting, wandering display. It is a tidy and admittedly novel reinterpretation of the wandering hours, which will surely appeal to collectors. There is something poetic about the minutes scale moving continuously across shuttered apertures, its sweep much like a bridge between points in time, here represented spatially. The combination of the sporty and large Pioneer case is also odd with the wandering hours, historically a complication associated with more formal, slim cases. At almost 43 mm, the case is large even for a sports watch. And to nitpick: if there is anything objectionable from the get-go, that is the name. Strictly speaking, “Flying hours” describes a revolving platform that is only supported from below - like a flying tourbillon. Here the hour disks a...

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Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Behrens Sep 4, 2025

Hands-On: Behrens and Vianney Halter Collaborate on the Impressive Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition

Vianney Halter, the legendary independent watchmaker, has collaborated with Behrens, the Chinese indie that over the last few years has gradually upped the ante in terms of their watchmaking and their own ambitions in the international watch industry. The new watch, the Behrens Master Collection “KWH” Limited Edition, is sure to be one of the most talked about watches of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and should cement Behrens as a real player in the independent watch scene, while reintroducing Halter to a new generation of enthusiasts.  Collaborations within the indie watch world are frequent, so it’s worth spending a moment to contextualize the importance of Vianney Halter working with Behrens on this watch in particular. Halter is considered by many to be on the proverbial Mt. Rushmore of indie watchmakers who set the stage for the modern avant-garde watchmaking moment that we’re in the midst of. His Antiqua, a truly radical design upon its release, is still one of the most influential watches of its era, or any other. That he’s chosen to not just lend his name to a Behrens release but actually create an all new caliber for it feels like the strongest possible endorsement, and a signal that he and the young Chinese brand share a certain watchmaking philosophy.  The chief aesthetic inspiration behind the new piece is the square shape of antique electricity meters and the concept of “pixel nostalgia” (think video games like Snake and Tetris and you get the idea)....

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