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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs Fratello
TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Nov 5, 2025

TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs

Few names are as closely linked in motorsport-themed watchmaking as TAG Heuer and Ayrton Senna. The latest TAG Heuer Ayrton Senna editions continue that relationship with two Formula 1 chronographs that pay tribute to the Brazilian driver’s legacy. Rather than chasing nostalgia, these models acknowledge Senna’s influence with a modern interpretation. Both watches - one […] Visit TAG Heuer Honors Racing Legend Ayrton Senna With Two New Formula 1 Chronographs to read the full article.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 1518 Nov 5, 2025

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 in Stainless Steel

Many superlatives have been ascribed to what might be the most valuable watch this fall auction season – the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in stainless steel. Headlining Phillips’ upcoming auction in Geneva, the steel ref. 1518 is paradoxically extraordinary and ordinary all at once. As the first serially-produced perpetual calendar-chronograph wristwatch, the ref. 1518 is already a landmark Patek Philippe wristwatch, one that spawned a lineage that includes the refs. 2499, 3970, and 5970. And then there’s the ref. 1518 in steel – only four are known. The steel ref. 1518 has rarity, historical importance, and an eight-figure value; but on the wrist, this “holy grail” is compact, lightweight, and monochromatic, discreetly low-key. At a diminutive 35 mm in diameter, the ref. 1518 is small by today’s standards. The watch doesn’t look like much on the wrist from across a room; in fact, it isn’t immediately obvious to a layperson (or even a casual watch enthusiast) that the watch is worth more than most houses and vintage Ferraris. Yet the ref. 1518 in steel is appealing for many intellectual reasons: extreme rarity, historical lineage of the perpetual calendar chronograph, even sheer value. This is a trophy in many senses. Historically, the ref. 1518 was important even in its time. It was once Patek Philippe’s most complicated regular production wristwatch, and the steel ref. 1518 was likely the most expensive steel Patek Philippe when it was in the catalogue. ...

Introducing – The New, Futuristic Hamilton Ventura Edge Skeleton Monochrome
Hamilton Ventura Edge Skeleton Most Nov 5, 2025

Introducing – The New, Futuristic Hamilton Ventura Edge Skeleton

Most of us associate Hamilton with robust military field watches employed by the US Army during WWII and their successful second lease of life in the Khaki collections. One of the quirkier models to emerge from Hamilton’s American era was the Ventura, the world’s first publicly available battery-powered watch, with a crazy, futuristic, asymmetrical case […]

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGM255 Nov 5, 2025

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT

The Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257 bring two new dials to the classic Elegance Collection GMT. Both models preserve the 39.5mm stainless steel case and mechanical caliber 9S66 but introduce fresh dial designs inspired by the seasons. These new references serve up a restrained evolution of a design that has been a Grand Seiko cornerstone […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGM255 And SBGM257 - New Dials For The Dressy GMT to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Sylvain Berneron – All In SJX Watches
Berneron Nov 5, 2025

SJX Podcast: Sylvain Berneron – All In

For episode 18 of the SJX Podcast, we sit down with Sylvain Berneron, founder of one of the most talked about new brands of the past few years. Fresh off the launch of the brand’s first complicated model, the Quantième Annuel, Mr Berneron breaks down what it takes to start a watch business and stay on pace to produce a new model every year. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 5, 2025

10 Of The Most Complicated Watches For Every Budget

In the wild world of watches, the words “affordable” and “complicated” are most often mutually exclusive. The more complicated a piece is, I think, the more we all brace ourselves to expect the correlation of a dramatic surge in price. It’s par for the course. But in recent years, there have been some watchmakers out there that have dared to do the unexpected, to bring high complications down to the realm of mortal purchasing power. As always, measuring affordability remains a personal conundrum, but there is no denying that there are now options for perpetual calendars, jump hours, and the like that are now paired with a more easily digestible price tag.  In today’s guide, I’m tipping my hat to the various watch brands out there that have invested time and resources into leveling the playing field, crafting pieces of high horology that are more accessible than ever before. Across 10 pieces, we’re running the gamut of style and utility, but each piece is unique in its own way, and definitely worthy of your consideration if you’re looking for a complicated watch at a not-so-complicated price point.  Christopher Ward Bel Canto  Case: 41mm Material: Grade 5 Titanium Movement: Caliber FS01 Automatic Water Resistance: Price: Starts at $3,995 The only logical jumping off point for a guide such as this is with the watch that revolutionized haute-horology bells and whistles at an unheard-of price tag: the Bel Canto from British maker Christopher Ward. You’ve...

Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS Fratello
Omega Speedmaster FOiS I could Nov 4, 2025

Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS

I could make this a concise hands-on review. However, what I wanted to do when the Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (FOiS) landed on my desk was answer the question of whether this would be the Speedmaster for me. Ever since Omega unveiled the Speedmaster FOiS, the watch has intrigued me. First, I love […] Visit Spending Time With The Distinctive Omega Speedmaster FOiS to read the full article.

Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Nov 4, 2025

Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes

If you’re celebrating 270 years of uninterrupted watchmaking history, you’ve seen it all, and sometimes you need to find new challenges to keep things exciting. A new collection of Les Cabinotiers timepieces titled La Quête (The Quest) keeps the watchmakers at the world’s longest continually operating watch brand on their toes and the collectors happy. […] Visit Introducing: A Complicated Trio Of One-Offs From Vacheron Constantin With Astronomical Themes to read the full article.

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Nov 4, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

This is the third match in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. The series continues with a beautiful and classical duo. Match three in round one sees RJ defending the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription in yellow gold and Mike making his case for […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 3 - Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P to read the full article.

J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock SJX Watches
Cartier Mystery Clock Philips’ upcoming Nov 4, 2025

J.P. Morgan Jr.’s Watches Emerge, Including First-Ever Cartier Mystery Clock

Philips’ upcoming sale in Geneva from November 8-9 includes two timepieces owned by John Pierpont Morgan Jr., widely known as Jack Morgan. Heir to a financial empire, Morgan was the first chairman of what is now JPMorganChase, and more pertinently, inherited the sensibilities of his father, J. Pierpont Morgan Sr., in collecting and gifting. Morgan Sr. was a collector on a grand scale, and across categories. The catalogues of his collections spanned volumes – two books for Chinese porcelain, four for miniatures, and a single volume for his watches and clocks, albeit a 350-page tome that weighed almost 6 kg in its original edition. The penchant for collecting was passed on to Jack Morgan, who evidently had sharp tastes in watches and clocks. The two timepieces going on the block at Phillips illustrate that. One is the first-ever Cartier mystery clock, a Model A sold to Morgan in 1913. And the other is one example of the “Morgan caliper”,  a series of minute repeating, split-second chronograph, tourbillon pocket watches made for J.P. Morgan & Co., which were gifted by Morgan Sr. and Jack Morgan to the firm’s partners and important associates. Titans of finance In 1913, Louisiana senator Arsène Pujo formed the Pujo Committee to investigate the growing concentration of financial power in the United States. The committee found that an inner circle of partners at J.P. Morgan & Co. and its two largest proxies held 341 directorship positions across the boards of 34 majo...

In His Own Words: François-Paul Journe on the Clock That Started It All SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Museum François-Paul was determined Nov 4, 2025

In His Own Words: François-Paul Journe on the Clock That Started It All

Exactly one auction season ago, the Breguet Sympathique no. 1 made by François-Paul Journe became the most expensive timepiece sold in 2025, though the upcoming sales include other F.P. Journe creations that might give the Sympathique a run for its money. Inspired by Abraham-Louis Breguet’s greatest invention, the Sympathique no. 1 sold in May 2025 at Phillips in Geneva for CHF5.51 million including fees, at the time equivalent to US$6.61 million, to none other than François-Paul Journe. The price was just shy of the US$6.8 million that the Duc d’Orleans Sympathique sold for in 2012 – the buyer of that was the Patek Philippe Museum. François-Paul was determined to have Breguet Sympathique no. 1 for his upcoming F.P. Journe museum that is slated to open in 2026. Despite bearing another name on the dial, the clock will take pride of place in the museum, underlining its importance to the history of F.P. Journe. The tale of F.P. Journe as a brand is naturally inseparable from the eponymous watchmaker. Like his inspiration, Abraham-Louis Breguet, François-Paul Journe is more than a watchmaker, he is an entrepreneur who has built a brand, a legacy, and more than likely, a place in history. From the very beginning, decades ago as a young watchmaker in Paris, François-Paul Journe already possessed the vision that has now come to pass. Inextricably intertwined with that vision and the story of François-Paul Journe is Breguet Sympathique no. 1, for its origins encapsulat...

Introducing the New Nomos Metro 38 Date Worn & Wound
Nomos Metro 38 Date Nomos Nov 3, 2025

Introducing the New Nomos Metro 38 Date

Nomos has been busy. Along with the recent introduction of a quartet of new Tetras to the lineup which we discussed just last week, the German brand has also introduced a new version of the Metro. The Metro has an interesting place in the Nomos lineup. It’s not one of the original designs from the launch of the brand, but over time it’s come to be fairly emblematic of what the brand stands for from a design perspective. The simple circular case and wire lugs have a modern, minimal vibe to them. When wearing the watch you come away with the feeling that there’s only enough material here to hold everything together and keep it looking like a Nomos, and nothing more. The dial, too, is quite distinctive, with ultra thin and elongated syringe hands and a series of simple dots to mark minutes and hours. This new reference is a subtly updated take on a classic version of the Metro, with a new movement that solves a longstanding issue.  The headline here is that the new Metro 38 Date runs on the still relatively new DUW 4601 caliber. This movement made its debut in the still incredibly weird and polarizing Tangente 2Date, which will be forever remembered for featuring not one but two date indications: one in a window at 6:00, and the other at the perimeter of the dial. This Metro, unlike the Tangente before it, only has a single date indicator at the 6:00 position. There have been many iterations on the Metro over the years, but this is the first time we’ve seen a date ve...

Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches Fratello
Minase Nov 3, 2025

Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches

Tokyo-based artist Towa Takaya creates pigments from soil, plants, and minerals gathered during her travels, which she then uses to craft watch dials. Now, Minase is introducing handcrafted Yusai dials made by her for its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, and Divido watches. Takaya’s goal is to create a dial showing the essence of nature […] Visit Minase Introduces Handcrafted Yusai Dials For Its 5 Windows Mid, 7 Windows, And Divido Watches to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE Fratello
Nov 3, 2025

Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE

During the past few years, we’ve covered many of Brellum’s new model introductions. The small brand produces tiny runs of its watches. While that may frustrate some, the company’s owner, Sébastien Muller, is known for communicating directly with customers. Plus, Brellum always brings a steady supply of releases each year. Today’s Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer […] Visit Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Chronometer LE to read the full article.

Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” Fratello
IWC Calatrava” Cal 89 Nov 3, 2025

Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava”

There’s something about a classic dress watch that resonates beyond fleeting trends. For me, it all started with the vintage IWC “Calatrava” Cal. 89 that I inherited from my grandfather. It is a watch from a bygone era when watchmaking was all about understated elegance, mechanical mastery, and timeless design. Recently, my Fratello colleagues discussed […] Visit Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” to read the full article.

Complicated Collectors: John Pierpont Morgan SJX Watches
Rado xically one Nov 3, 2025

Complicated Collectors: John Pierpont Morgan

As part of a continuing series on great watch collectors, following the first studies dedicated to Elliott Cabot Lee and Thomas Engel, the third instalment turns to the horological world of John Pierpont Morgan Sr. (1837-1913). Based on the famous 1912 Chiswick Press catalogue, this analysis reflects the range and typological structure of his collection. These watches span devotional and allegorical forms, astronomical instruments, and multi-functional works of mechanical synthesis. While Morgan’s approach has sometimes been described as encyclopaedic rather than selective, the collection itself tells a different story, one in which historical resonance and technical refinement consistently overlap. The selection offers a tangible expression of Morgan’s collecting logic, in which cultural meaning, mechanical ingenuity, and symbolic intent were sought in equal measure. The man In the pantheon of American capitalists, J. Pierpont Morgan occupies a singular place: titan of industry, consolidator of empires, and paradoxically, one of the greatest cultural preservationists of his age. Born in Hartford, Connecticut in 1837, the son of an ambitious transatlantic banker, he came of age amid the expanding architecture of American finance. His education, from early childhood, was European. He studied in Switzerland and later in Germany, where a brief period at the University of Göttingen introduced him to the German language and the foundations of art history. These formative ...

Hands-On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 Settimo SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Settimo Rolex Nov 3, 2025

Hands-On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 Settimo

Rolex has expanded the 1908 collection with the Perpetual 1908 Settimo, a yellow-gold dress watch with an all-new seven-link bracelet. Settimo, Italian for ‘seven’, refers to the number of links across the bracelet; five slender links in the centre framed by two broader links on each side. The result is a supple, tightly constructed bracelet that complements the refined proportions of the 1908. Powered by the advanced cal. 7140, the watch remains impressively slim at just 9.5 mm, combining Rolex’s famous industrial precision with genuine elegance, filling a long-standing gap in the brand’s line-up. Initial thoughts When I think of Rolex, the image in my mind is one of long-term thinking, industrial expertise, over-built movements, and iconic (but fairly chunky) designs. The 1908, especially the Settimo version, shows the brand also understands elegance. The Settimo bracelet recalls vintage ‘beads-of-rice’ bracelets and works well with the vintage-feeling aesthetic of the 1908. The slightly glistening lacquered dial and crisply faceted hour markers provide a bright, vivid appearance; perhaps its the sub-seconds at six and the lack of a date window, but it feels more refined than the dial of a typical Datejust or Day-Date. The case is very sleek on the wrist thanks to the cal. 7140, which, at just 4.05 mm in height, is 34% thinner than the brand’s own cal. 3235. No watch is perfect, and there are a few details that I find mildly annoying, like the plug atop the...

Hands-On With The Refined Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection Fratello
Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection Nov 2, 2025

Hands-On With The Refined Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection

When a certain car model has been on the market for a few years, but it’s not yet time for the introduction of a completely new version, it receives a facelift. That seems to be exactly what Blancpain has given its Villeret Golden Hour collection. The watches are still very recognizable, but small tweaks in […] Visit Hands-On With The Refined Blancpain Villeret Golden Hour Collection to read the full article.

Artem Takes A Bold Step With The Introduction Of Barenia Leather Straps In Its Loop-Less Style Fratello
Nov 2, 2025

Artem Takes A Bold Step With The Introduction Of Barenia Leather Straps In Its Loop-Less Style

Having iterated upon its Sailcloth and Signature Nylon ranges to near perfection, Artem turns its attention to unexplored territory. The typically adventure-focused Australian strap maker seeks to put its spin on classic leather straps. Its well-renowned Sailcloth and HydroFlex watch straps suit all climates and excursions, standing up to whatever you can throw at them. […] Visit Artem Takes A Bold Step With The Introduction Of Barenia Leather Straps In Its Loop-Less Style to read the full article.