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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Ceramic” & 26715CHNR “Tiger Iron” SJX Watches
Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Apr 28, 2025

Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II 126729VTNR “Green Ceramic” & 26715CHNR “Tiger Iron”

In the run up to Watches & Wonders 2025, many commentators expected a breakout year for the GMT-Master II, since it’s the 80th year of the collection. But Rolex took things in a different direction and dominated headlines by launching the Land-Dweller instead. But Rolex didn’t forget about its signature travel watch, and debuted two new precious metal models. The first is the GMT-Master II ref. 126729VTNR, which is in 18k white gold with a left-handed crown and a green ceramic dial; a first for Rolex. The second is the GMT-Master II ref. 126715CHNR in Everose that brings a new dial material to Rolex, tiger iron, one of the oldest minerals on Earth. Both models are available exclusively with an Oyster bracelet in matching 18k gold. The “lefty” with its glossy green ceramic dial Initial thoughts I admit to being laser-focused on the Land-Dweller during Watches & Wonders; the new movement technology captured (and held) my attention throughout the event. But I still made time to check out the GMT-Master II collection, which was one of my favourite Rolex collections at one point in time. Naturally, both of these new references exude quality, which can be experienced directly in the smooth operation of the bezel and the decisive action of the clasp. The watches are decadent, heavy, and show that Rolex has not run out of ideas for interesting dials. In the case of the green ceramic dial in the “destro” variant, I think we can expect to see this material used more wide...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Pateks Zeniths Apr 27, 2025

A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April

Watches & Wonders may have wrapped a few weeks ago, flooding everyone’s feeds with Tudors, Rolexes, Grand Seikos, Pateks, Zeniths, and more than a few Hublots-but we’re not diving into any of that today. Instead, on episode 102 of A Week in Watches, we take a step back from the hype and turn our attention to the quieter-but no less exciting-independent releases that emerged around the same time. April was surprisingly packed with creative drops from small brands doing things their own way, and while the big names stole the headlines, the indies delivered some of the most interesting watches of the month. Before diving into a few standout releases-yes, including that particularly “crazy” one-here’s a quick heads-up: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2025 is just around the corner. It’s happening May 2nd through 4th at the Gateway Pavilion in Fort Mason Park. Over 80 brands will be there, it’s free, and it’s open to all. If you’re on the West Coast, swing by. Full details and the exhibitor list are up now at windupwatchfair.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 102 – The Indies of April appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn Fratello
Apr 27, 2025

Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn

Independent watchmaking has a knack for unearthing hidden gems in the most unexpected places. In this case, that place is Ninghai, China, home to master watchmaker Qian GuoBiao. His latest creation, Facing the Sky 2.0, marks the return of a concept he first unveiled back in 2018. The original Facing the Sky, a bold 43mm […] Visit Introducing: Qian GuoBiao’s Facing The Sky 2.0 - Marking A Skyward Vision Reborn to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G Fratello
Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G It’s Sunday Apr 27, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G

It’s Sunday again, and for our showdown this week, we set up a clash between two polarizing watches that inspire no shortage of fervid opinions. First, there is the brand-new Rolex Land-Dweller that the brand unveiled during Watches and Wonders a few weeks back. It goes up against the much-debated Patek Philippe Cubitus, which debuted […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Land-Dweller 127336 Vs. Patek Philippe Cubitus 7128/1G to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, and Gear: X-files Reboot, Freewheelin’ Documentary, A Blank Slate, and New Music Worn & Wound
Apr 26, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: X-files Reboot, Freewheelin’ Documentary, A Blank Slate, and New Music

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. The New Album from Shaky Eddie  If you spend any amount of time consuming watch related content on the internet, chances are you’ve come across Oren Hartov’s byline. Oren has been part of the watch community for years, and has even written a series of articles on historic military issued watches for Worn & Wound. His work has also appeared in GQ, Esquire, Robb Report, Gear Patrol and a number of other publications.    But in addition to being a prolific writer and editor, Oren is also a musician. When his band, Shaky Eddie, released their first album a few years ago, we linked you to it right here. Shaky Eddie just dropped their second album, “Dog Green Blues,” and we couldn’t be happier to spread the word among the watch community. Shaky Eddie is a jazz-fusion group featuring Oren on guitar and a crew of talented Los Angeles based session and touring musicians. The new album can be streamed on Spotify, and you can also support the project by picking up a copy of the album on vinyl at the band’s website.   The Slate Truck: Customizable and Affordable New automaker, Slate Auto, has unveiled a new truck, aptly named “Slate Truck”.  With a strong mini...

New: Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 Deployant
Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Apr 26, 2025

New: Panerai Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574

Panerai proudly returns to the world’s most important design fair as the Official Timekeeper of Salone del Mobile, thus reinforcing Panerai’s commitment to the world of design and innovation. As a tribute to this prestigious occasion, the Maison presents the Luminor GMT Power Reserve Ceramica PAM01574 making its debut at Panerai’s pop-up at Milano Rho Fiera.

Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US Fratello
Apr 26, 2025

Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US

Harry Belafonte is a hero to many, including Fratello reader Billy Denty. This is for good reason. A successful musician who sold more than 3,000,000 albums, he was also a man of immense social conscience. He led a remarkable life, and today, thanks to one Fratello reader, we get to see Belafonte’s Wyler watch up […] Visit Acclaimed Musician Harry Belafonte’s Wyler Watch Surfaces In The US to read the full article.

The Best Grand Seiko Dials Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2025

The Best Grand Seiko Dials

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models Fratello
Breguet Models Apr 25, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models

This year is full of watch brands celebrating all kinds of anniversaries, but if there’s one with a milestone anniversary, it is Breguet. The house celebrates its 250th anniversary this year. Yesterday, the festivities began with the release of the new Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. It’s a brilliant first step in a new direction under […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Breguet Models to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications Fratello
Apr 25, 2025

Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss two popular complications and their usefulness. It’s the type of nerdy talk we hope you enjoy! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie settings Watch complications are a big part of why many of us collect […] Visit Fratello On Air: Useful And Useless Complications to read the full article.

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Apr 25, 2025

Hands On: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Bulgari made its debut at Watches & Wonders this year, having previously exhibited outside the fair. It was a fitting occasion to launch the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the thinnest tourbillon watch ever at just 1.85 mm thick. Housed in the brand’s signature matte grey titanium case and limited to just 20 pieces, the Ultra Tourbillon is paired with an equally thin and silky titanium bracelet. Bulgari is deeply invested in its leadership in ultra-thin watchmaking, and the Ultra Tourbillon shows the brand is willing to do whatever it takes to own as many records in this field as possible. Initial thoughts Despite its record-breaking slimness, there was surprisingly little buzz about the Ultra at Watches & Wonders. This may be due to record fatigue, since the previous record was set just last year by the Piaget AUC Tourbillon. It could also be due to the diminishing returns of these types of records, which are now being broken by almost imperceptible margins. On its exterior, the Ultra Tourbillon is quite similar the 1.7 mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra introduced last year. It features a 40 mm case made from a combination of titanium and tungsten carbide, and is impressively open-worked, revealing just about every wheel and pinion on the dial side of the watch. But this watch is all about the headline figure of its 1.85 mm thickness, which endows the Ultra Tourbillon with a delicate, almost weightless feel. The case in profile. Image – Bulgari Like all ultra-thin recor...

The 19 Thinnest Watches in the World in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 24, 2025

The 19 Thinnest Watches in the World in 2026

There have always been thin watches, and always watchmakers who have dedicated their craft to reduce the essentials of timekeeping, as well as other additional complications, into as slimmed down and wearable a package as humanly (and horologically) possible. Lately, however, as 21st century technological developments impact watchmaking as they have every other industry, it seems there are more exceptionally thin watches than ever before -some of them aimed at a customer simply seeking an elegantly understated and luxuriously lightweight timepiece for regular wear, others almost defiantly unobtainable to all but a few, but intended to boldly shatter records for both thinness and complexity. We offer some of both types in our roundup of ultra-thin watches below (which we're defining as 10mm thick or under, based on average watch sizes), in ascending order of case thickness, starting from the top with the current category record holders.   Under 2mm Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari (1.75mm) In the world of high horology, Richard Mille has been pushing the envelope in the areas of materials, technologies, and (let’s face it) prices for quite some time. In 2022, the brand probably best known for making the watch that tennis champ Rafael Nadal wears to play in Grand Slams entered a new partnership with Ferrari, and the result was, to many watch enthusiasts’ surprise, the current record-holder for world’s thinnest watch. The RM UP-01 Ferrari is an almost unimaginable 1.7...

Graduation Watches: The Gift Guide For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 24, 2025

Graduation Watches: The Gift Guide For Every Budget

Graduation season is just around the corner, and, given the title of this article, I’m pretty sure you can already tell where I’m going with this. Whether you yourself are about to don a cap and gown, or you know a graduate who’s preparing to celebrate the end of one chapter and the beginning of a new one, a watch makes a great gift to mark a transition from one phase of life into the next. It’s a tale as old as time (or, at least, as old as watches).  So, to give you some graduation gifting inspiration - or, in case you need to provide some loved ones with a little guidance on the graduation gift you might want - I’ve rounded up various watches at (I hope) every price point with grads in mind. Some key elements I’ve looked for in making this list are practicality, versatility, and styles of watches that could make a one-and-done collection in themselves for those who are new to watches, or those beginning a collection. And if you aren’t celebrating graduation season yourself, but are in need of a nudge to celebrate some other key moment in your life - well, you’re welcome here, too.  Under $500 Casio Vintage ABL100WE-1AVT Price: $79.95 Case: 37.9mm. Water Resistant: Yes. Movement: Quartz battery Going by ascending order on price feels like the most obvious way to order this guide, so I will begin with a watch not just under $500, but under $100. For those who are possibly just dipping their toes into the idea of wearing a watch regularly (this is t...

Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations Fratello
Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Apr 24, 2025

Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations

Abraham-Louis Breguet was probably the first watchmaker to launch a watch with the help of a Kickstarter campaign. Okay, well, not exactly, but in 1797, he made his 61mm Souscription pocket watch available for order with a 25% down payment. That way, the relatively simple watch with only one hand and a white enamel dial […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 - Initiating The Brand’s 250th-Anniversary Celebrations to read the full article.

Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock Fratello
Apr 24, 2025

Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock

I feel a strong sense of nostalgia for the old flipping scoreboards I remember from my childhood. That’s probably why I adore digital jump-hour watches and quartz flip clocks so much. When I first saw the Plato Clock, patented in 1903, I froze in amazement. I believe I’m pretty strong when it comes to controlling […] Visit Retrospective: True Joy With A 100-Plus-Year-Old Plato Flip Clock to read the full article.

Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition Fratello
Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Apr 24, 2025

Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition

Panerai has unveiled the new Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition PAM01699. This tool-ish 47mm titanium watch is a limited edition of 35 pieces worldwide. However, as its name and €50K+ price suggest, the whole package includes much more than a heavy-duty timekeeper… The relationship between Panerai and the Italian Navy is a key part […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Submersible Chrono Marina Militare Experience Edition to read the full article.

Getting A Perspective On The New Tudor Black Bay Pro With The White Opaline Dial Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Pro Apr 24, 2025

Getting A Perspective On The New Tudor Black Bay Pro With The White Opaline Dial

About three weeks have passed since this year’s Watches and Wonders, so it’s time to reflect on some of the great introductions we saw during the fair. It’s easiest to divide these into two groups. The first are the watches we admire from a distance, meaning they will likely never be part of our collections […] Visit Getting A Perspective On The New Tudor Black Bay Pro With The White Opaline Dial to read the full article.

Longines Legend Diver Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Apr 23, 2025

Longines Legend Diver Guide

The Longines Legend Diver, introduced in the mid-aughts but tracing its origins all the way back to the embryonic era of modern dive watches in the 1950s and ‘60s, is the epitome of retro-vintage cool for many lovers of sport watches. Here’s how the watch, and its hallmark and still-rare Super Compressor case design, found a successful niche, and an avid audience, in the 21st century.  1959: The Inspiration As with many now-common watchmaking innovations, Longines was one of the pioneers in waterproofing timepieces, making its first water-resistant case as early as 1937, and introducing its first wristwatches purpose-built for recreational diving in the late 1950s. Unlike many of its predecessors and contemporaries in that fertile era of iconic dive watches - like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner (both 1953), and Omega Seamaster Professional (1957) - Longines’s Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042, launched in 1959 and the most direct ancestor of today’s Legend Diver - did not employ the now-ubiquitous, external, unidirectional rotating bezel for its dive scale. Instead, the watch was designed in the so-called compressor style, also used by brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Enicar, and Universal Genève, whose case design included an inner dive-scale ring, positioned on the dial’s flange and mounted under the crystal, which rotated in both directions, operated by an additional crown at 4 o’clock. The “Super” in Longines’ “Super Compressor”...

Studio Underd0g Targets Copycats With The Av0cado And Guacam0le 01Series Watches Fratello
Studio Underd0g Apr 23, 2025

Studio Underd0g Targets Copycats With The Av0cado And Guacam0le 01Series Watches

Studio Underd0g continues to defy conventions with two new colorful additions to its 01Series chronograph range. The Av0cado and Guacam0le continue the playful mantra of Studio Underd0g by infusing color combinations to invoke various types of food. Adding these two style options may seem a bit old hat for Studio Underd0g since it has evolved […] Visit Studio Underd0g Targets Copycats With The Av0cado And Guacam0le 01Series Watches to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite Fratello
Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Met... Apr 23, 2025

Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite

Last year, for the brand’s 50th anniversary, Christiaan van der Klaauw introduced the Grand Planetarium Eccentric. It was a 44mm watch in platinum or rose gold with eight hand-painted celestial bodies circling its aventurine dial. That already sounds quite impressive, right? Well, when I met Pim Koeslag, CEO of the Dutch brand, at Watches and […] Visit Hands-On With The Christiaan Van Der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite to read the full article.