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1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.
Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.
Eight thousand pieces. One very specific shade of yellow. Seiko and Honda celebrate the Motocompo's 45th anniversary with a watch that's hard to ignore.
Seiko's Prospex Turtle HBB002 marks PADI's 60th anniversary. Electric sunburst blue dial, ceramic bezel insert, 200m water resistance, an 8,000-piece run, and a €750 price tag that puts it squarely in the impulse-buy bracket for a real diver.
Revolution
Let’s take a moment to appreciate the technical complexity of the new Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001, the brand’s first fully mechanical chronograph that Grand Seiko developed entirely in-house. This vertical clutch column wheel chronograph has been rigorously tested and boasts a standard +5/-3 daily deviation. Its 9SC5 movement is a high-beat 5Hz movement accurate to […]
Revolution
Worn & Wound
This year’s marquee release from Grand Seiko is the all new Tentagraph, an imposing and technically impressive chronograph that makes use of a new high beat caliber and a case shape derived from previous watches in the Evolution 9 Collection. It’s kind of hard to believe, but up until now, Grand Seiko didn’t have a purely mechanical chronograph in their collection. Spring Drive has ruled the day if you need a watch for timing laps, steaks, or anything else, but that changes this year. With the Tentagraph, which carries reference SLGC001, Grand Seiko introduces a new movement, Caliber 9SC5. This movement is notable for its shared architecture and essential technical features with the next-gen 9SA5, the double-impulse escapement caliber introduced by the brand a few years ago. We’ve seen that basic time and date caliber adopted in a variety of excellent watches in the relatively short time it’s been in production, but this is where the fun really starts: we now have a new caliber derived from the 9SA5, which of course would lead anyone following the brand to think that a) we’ll see more chronographs coming from Grand Seiko within the Evolution 9 Collection and b) we’re likely to see more complications. The 9SA5 now takes its place as a halo caliber, with many possibilities ahead when it comes to variations large and small. Like the 9SA5, the 9SC5 beats ten times per second and is powered by two barrels giving it a three day power reserve. That’s with the ...
Hodinkee
A new manual-wind, time-only piece hand engraved by the masters of the Micro Artist Studio.
Worn & Wound
Throughout the week, the Worn & Wound team on the ground in Geneva will be bringing you updates on our general impressions of the show as it happens. At the end of the day, you can expect our candid thoughts on the watches we saw, the tenor of the crowd, observations of what people are discussing and really excited about, and, of course, a rundown of all the sandwiches consumed in the press lounge. Without any further delay, here’s our Day 1 recap. Zach Kazan Day 1 of Watches & Wonders began with a choice: which watch to wear? I brought three: my IWC 3706, the Louis Erard I picked up recently, and the Grand Seiko SBGA469. I decided on the Grand Seiko, partly because I had a meeting with them later in the day, and partly because it feels like the dressiest watch I brought with me, and that’s kind of the vibe on the first day of Watches & Wonders. My first impression of Watches & Wonders last year (my first show) was that of total insanity. It seemed electric, and my memory is that the hall was full of people right from the start. I honestly can’t remember what time we actually arrived on day 1 last year, but this year we were among the first at Palexpo, and the mood was quite a bit more subdued. My first meeting was at 10:00, and until that time we mostly got our bearings as a team, went over the plan we had previously established, and watched the hall fill up (gradually) as we waited for that first appointment. Maybe it’s the fact that this is no longer a brand n...
Hodinkee
The high-beat watch is the latest edition to the Evolution 9 Collection.
Deployant
Grand Seiko introduces their first mechanical self-winding chronograph - the Tentagraph. In a 43mm titanium case with 3 day power reserve.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
At Watches and Wonders 2023 the iconic Japanese brand shared their next innovative vision for their product line's direction: the SLG001G Tentagraph, their first ever mechanical chronograph.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko made a big splash at last year’s Watches & Wonders with the launch of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, the brand’s first complicated mechanical wristwatch. For 2023, the brand is back with another first-time complication that will likely be one of the most talked-about watches of the show, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. The first purely mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph ever, the Tentagraph is a high-spec sports chronograph that fills a hole in the Grand Seiko portfolio. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of the four key features of the watch: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and of course, the chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph is an important watch for Grand Seiko that enables the brand to stand toe to toe with Rolex, Omega, Zenith, Breitling, and other stalwarts in the popular category of mechanical sports chronograph. Not only is the category a hitherto untapped commercial opportunity for Grand Seiko, it is an opportunity for the brand to demonstrate its technical know-how and ambition. In this context, I would have expected the brand to release an integrated chronograph movement, perhaps based on the 6S movement family. But Grand Seiko has chosen to build a modular chronograph calibre based on the 9SA5, the flagship Grand Seiko automatic movement introduced in 2020, signalling the brand’s commitment to the calibre and its proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. My colleague Richard Lee notes that the 9S...
Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a hand-made Micro Artist Studio creation displaying the ultimate finishing of the manufacture. This unofficial sequel to the SBGZ001 is white-birch driven versus snowflake driven. Will GS collectors feel like the SBGZ009 steps on the toes of SBGZ001 owners?. If you’re just starting your journey into Grand Seiko enthusiasm, … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko SBGD213 is the sequel to last year’s SBGD209 The paw-like shape of the faceted case is inspired by the Grand Seiko lion mascot The case and dial are set with a combined total of 5.62 carats of diamonds and 1.25 carats of blue sapphires, all set by hand Grand Seiko is … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGD213 roars with hand-set diamonds and blue sapphires appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s another knock-down, drag-out street fight here on Versus, and this match-up pits two classic divers, the current version of the venerable Seiko Turtle against the bomb-proof Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Dive. Once again, we match up two comparable watches in similar styles and price points, and compare their shared qualities, and the ones that set … ContinuedThe post VERSUS: The Seiko Prospex Turtle takes on the Citizen Promaster Dive for entry-level underwater supremacy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Many new releases from Seiko rely on inspiration from the brand’s rich back catalogue, and the case of the new Prospex GMT 1968 Diver’s Re-interpretation follows that trend. Basing their design on the 6159-7001 reference that followed the very first dive watch from Seiko, the 62MAS, the 1968 Diver’s GMT features the 4 o’clock crown, … ContinuedThe post GMTs galore! Seiko introduces the Prospex SPB381, SPB383 and SPB385 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The "good ol’ days” aren’t over yet – at least in the world of mechanical watches, where the appreciation of traditions and the creation of lasting values are as essential as the balance wheel and the escapement. Here, Sabine Zwettler takes a look at five of her favorite modern retro-styled watches from Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Breitling, and Seiko.
Quill & Pad
In case you need a reason for watch shopping – a watch certainly would help navigate through stores to find everything on time. Here are five wallet-friendly suggestions that might just be the ultimate “tra la la la.”
Two Broke Watch Snobs
... Read more
Deployant
In 2020, the world bore witness to something off the beaten path from Grand Seiko: an openworked, concept movement which incorporates a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon as one unit on a single axis. This was the T0 Constant-force Tourbillon concept movement. While impressive, the T0 was an uncased, unwearable movement; it was not aRead More
Worn & Wound
This week’s episode of A Week in Watches starts off on a sad note with a quick memorial to Gerd Rüdiger Lang, who passed away at 80 just last week. A pioneer in the independent space, his contributions to the world of watchmaking were vast. Our condolences to his family and friends. From there, we move to new releases. This week we have a colorful Mido with a flyer GMT and world time bezel that will surely be popular. Then we move on to the Mission to Moonshine – look it’s news, so we had to cover it, right? Lastly, Seiko finally adds mechanical GMTs to their Prospex diver line, and we’re happy about it. This week’s episode was brought to you by Quick Release. Quick Release is a place where Worn & Wound’s partners showcase a wider variety of watches, product drops, limited deals and promotions, event announcements, and more. Check back daily, follow Quick Release on Instagram, and subscribe to our mailing list so you don’t miss a thing. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 40: FINALLY! Seiko Mechanical GMT Divers + More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Seiko are celebrating their 110th anniversary of making wristwatches. The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series pays tribute to traditional Japanese techniques. The four dials cover enamel, porcelain and lacquer. Most people would know that Seiko is a Japanese brand, however, their ties to their country of origin run much deeper than the majority of watch brands. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series delivers exquisite dials in porcelain, enamel and lacquer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The perfect entry point into mechanical watches makes its long-awaited return.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Taking a look at the new Seiko Prospex GMT diver models featuring the new mechanical 6R54 "caller" GMT movement from Seiko.
SJX Watches
Nearly fifty years since Japanese explorer Naomi Uemura (1941-1984) scaled several of the world’s tallest mountains – and crossed Greenland on a dog sledge with a Seiko on his wrist – Seiko introduces the Prospex 1970 Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation “The Naomi Uemura Limited Edition” (SLA069). Inspired by the ref. 6105 “Captain Willard” that accompanied Uemura on his solo dog sledge run from Greenland to Alaska in 1976, the SLA069 has a mountain-motif dial and blue coating on the bezel and crown. Initial thoughts This limited edition makes sense philosophically since it’s a Japanese watch that pays tribute to a Japanese explorer who wore something similar on his expeditions. The design is obviously based on the ref. 6105, a model commonly referred to as “Captain Willard” by enthusiasts after the lead character who wore one in Apocalypse Now. Seiko has done several ref. 6105 remakes in the recent past, including another Uemura edition, but the SLA069 has details that make it distinctive, like the textured dial and blue access on the case. As a limited edition, the SLA069 is slightly priced higher than regular production “Captain Willard” divers, but not very much more, making it an appealing proposition for someone who wants a retro diver with a few modern details. Willard style Uemura was a legendary explorer known for feats of mountaineering and exploration before disappearing in 1984 while descending Mount Denali after reaching the summit. B...
Hodinkee
Not just more, but we're talking a higher-spec Dive-GMT with a brand new movement.
Worn & Wound
Seiko ventures into new (and much requested) territory this week with the release of a new collection of GMT divers within their Prospex family. Using their modern 6159 design language seen in watches like the SPB187 with MM200 roots, the new watches strike a fine balance between their roots, and a strong contemporary vision for the range. Seiko has proven quite adept at this in recent years with their restructuring of their dive watch collections, but these latest examples bring something new to the table: a GMT complication within a new 3 day automatic movement, the 6R54. The new Prospex GMT diver range welcomes two new references in the SPB381 and 383, and in true Seiko fashion, a single limited edition in the SPB385. Each welcomes the new 6R35 within a steel 42mm case that measures 12.8mm in thickness, and should wear quite similarly to this SPB187 we went hands-on with right here. The angular case gets the distinctive deep chamfer along the lug which has a relatively short overhang to make for a perfectly manageable experience on the wrist. These watches mark the first time a mechanical GMT movement has made its way into the Prospex dive watch, as the GMT diver is something of a niche genre, and may, to some extent, excuse the fact that this is a caller style GMT execution. The GMT hand can be set independently in one-hour increments, making it a better option for those who work with or communicate with other time zones more than for those who travel between them fr...
SJX Watches
Responsible for some of the most reliable and well-priced diver watches on the market, Seiko is synonymous with the genre. The Japanese watchmaker continues to expand its dive watch offerings, but now with a second time zone complication. A “modern reinterpretation” of its Hi-Beat 300 m dive watch from 1968, the Prospex 1968 Diver’s GMT is the first mechanical dual-time zone dive watch in Seiko’s Prospex sports watch collection. The SPB383 Initial thoughts Arguably the collection offering the best value in Seiko’s line-up, Prospex is going slightly upscale with the second time zone movement, while maintaining its strong price-performance ratio. The standout among the new models is the SPB381 with its deep green dial. While the limited edition SPB385 with its textured, “ice blue” dial is undoubtedly fancier, the SPB381 is clean and functional but appealing with its palette. The SPB381 Though it is a two-time zone watch, the Diver’s GMT is still primarily a dive watch. So it retains the traditional elapsed time bezel and clever places the 24-hour scale on the flange around the dial. That said, the Diver’s GMT is more accurately a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a true GMT that has an adjustable local-time hour hand (as found in pricier Grand Seiko models). This means a few extra steps when setting the time for a change in time zones, though it is a perfectly acceptable compromise considering the price. At U...
Revolution
SJX Watches
Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design. The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399). The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399 Initial thoughts Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial. While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models. Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly r...
Time+Tide
Introducing the Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura Limited Edition, with cues of glacial colours Inspired by the conquests of one of Japan’s best-known explorers Powered by a GS-derived automatic movement, the Caliber 8L35 Naomi Uemura was a man of focus, commitment and sheer will. He was the first person to solo-climb Denali, the highest mountain peak … ContinuedThe post The Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays homage to Japan’s most famed explorer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Seiko SKX is out of production, which means it's time to pass the crown. Behold the heir to the throne.
Hodinkee
If you know where to look, you can find horological treasure anywhere. All you need is an open mind – and maybe a Prime account.
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