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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

BA111OD Introduces The Chapter 8 Collection Inspired By Mid-20th-Century Watchmaking Fratello
Aug 30, 2025

BA111OD Introduces The Chapter 8 Collection Inspired By Mid-20th-Century Watchmaking

BA111OD is a small brand that moves quickly. It released its Chapter 7 collection in February, which we extensively covered here on Fratello. The collection of sports watches with integrated bracelets presented a new direction for the brand. The smart thing that brand founder Thomas Baillod did was to create chapters for his releases. As […] Visit BA111OD Introduces The Chapter 8 Collection Inspired By Mid-20th-Century Watchmaking to read the full article.

Breitling Chronomat: The Complete Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Aug 29, 2025

Breitling Chronomat: The Complete Guide

The Breitling Chronomat traces its most emblematic design elements back to the relatively recent year of 1984, but the model’s roots reach much further back, to the dawn of Breitling’s role as a leading innovator of watches for pilots. On the way to becoming one of the watch world’s iconic chronograph wristwatches, the Chronomat has also been the host model for some of the most significant innovations in movement technology. Today, it remains one of Breitling’s flagship models, with an array of sizes, materials, colorways, and complications for men and ladies alike. Here is the story of the Breitling Chronomat, from its groundbreaking origins to its 21st Century revival. The Original Chronomat (1941) Breitling’s long and storied history in the arena of aviation begins in 1938, shortly before the start of World War II, with the founding of the Huit Aviation Department by third-generation company chairman Willy Breitling. Taking its numerical name “huit” from the eight-day power reserve offered by Breitling’s watches and clocks - an innovation pioneered by Willy’s grandfather Léon Breitling -  the Huit Aviation Department was devoted to making the most precise and robust onboard timekeepers for the cockpits of military planes.  Two years later, Breitling unveiled a world’s-first invention destined to make a historical impact on both watchmaking and piloting: the first timepiece equipped with a logarithmic scale on its rotating bezel that could be u...

Rolex Daytona Panda Dial Ref. 126500 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 29, 2025

Rolex Daytona Panda Dial Ref. 126500 Review

The Rolex Daytona is a tricky watch to discuss these days. It’s difficult to separate the watch itself from its status as a barometer to the health of the entire second-hand market — a position that the watch itself surely never asked to be put into. Everyone has an opinion on the Daytona, and these days, those opinions seem to lean more negative due mostly to what it has come to represent. As such, it rarely gets a fair crack at an honest judgment. In fact, it’s a watch I generally shy away from discussing publicly. But I’ve always liked the Daytona, and I take pleasure in wearing mine in non-watch-enthusiast environments. That’s because, behind all the speculation and hype culture, there’s a genuinely good sports watch that’s almost never seen as such. After a year of owning the reference 126500 Rolex Daytona Panda dial introduced in 2023, and amidst a cooling second-hand market, I think it’s time to change that.  Let’s start off by confronting the reality of this watch. The MSRP of the steel Daytona Reference 126500 in either black or white dial (dark or light, in Rolex parlance) is $16,000. The same watches trade for between $27,000 and $32,000 in the open market. This is a serious discrepancy, but it does seem to have stabilized from a high point in 2021. In fact, it seems to be slowly coming down, but not nearly to a price that the watch merits, if you ask me. At its MSRP, the Daytona is a legitimately great watch, but only just. At ~$30,000, this ...

Sternglas Introduces The Hamburg Pro Automatik In Two Variants Fratello
Aug 29, 2025

Sternglas Introduces The Hamburg Pro Automatik In Two Variants

We are no strangers to the Sternglas Hamburg collection. The brand’s popular model, named after its hometown, is available in various versions powered by quartz or mechanical calibers. Additionally, the Sternglas Hamburg is available as a time-and-date model or a chronograph. The German brand now introduces two top-of-the-line models that feature slimmer cases, an upgraded […] Visit Sternglas Introduces The Hamburg Pro Automatik In Two Variants to read the full article.

Introducing – Redesigned Inside and Out, The new Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic Monochrome
Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic Longines Aug 29, 2025

Introducing – Redesigned Inside and Out, The new Longines PrimaLuna Moonphase Automatic

Longines introduced its PrimaLuna collection of women’s watches in 2009 with a name designed to evoke the romantic nature of the Moon. However, unlike the PrimaLuna time-and-date models powered by automatic calibres, the PrimaLunas featuring moon phase complications were fitted with quartz movements that might not appeal to women who prefer mechanical movements. For 2025, […]

Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES Fratello
Fears Aug 29, 2025

Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES

For many, summer vacation is usually a time to travel, relax, and recharge for the second half of the year. Well, not for the people at Fears, it seems. The British brand introduces not one, not two, but three new watches today. The new Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose has a textured black and rose gold […] Visit Fears Introduces A Trio Of New Watches: The Brunswick 38 Charcoal Rose, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour Barleycorn, And Redcliff 39.5 Date ES to read the full article.

Praesidus Finds Refinement With The Victory Collection Fratello
Aug 29, 2025

Praesidus Finds Refinement With The Victory Collection

Anyone who has followed Praesidus over the past few years knows the brand has always focused on paying tribute to watches with military heritage. From revivals of the rugged A-11 to limited models tied to real veterans’ stories, the watches have been rooted in the world of utility and service. But now, the brand is […] Visit Praesidus Finds Refinement With The Victory Collection to read the full article.

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” Aug 29, 2025

Hands On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh”

With a swivelling case and unadorned back, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has long served as a canvas for miniature enamelling (or double-faced complications). The Reverso Tribute Enamel “Shahnameh” is a fine example of the art, which is almost synonymous with Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC), one of the first brands to set up an in-house enamel workshop. Originally invented as a watch for polo players – the reversible case is meant to protect the crystal – the Reverso goes back to the historical origins of the game with this set. The quartet is inspired by scenes from Shahnameh, an epic poem written one thousand years ago that recounts the origins of the Persian Empire, and also depicts the ancient game invented by Persians that is today known as polo. Specifically, the four watches reproduce illustrations from the Shahnameh commissioned by Shah Tahmasp, the second ruler of the Safavid dynasty, in the early 16th century. The four piece set comprised of (from left) ‘Siyavush Plays Polo before Afrasiyab’; ‘Faridun Tests His Sons’; ‘Saam Comes to Mount Alburz’; and ‘Rustam Pursues Akvan’. Image – Jaeger-LeCoultre Initial thoughts JLC has long reproduced historical art on the Reverso – including Monet’s Venice series of paintings last year – but the artwork was often Western or East Asian, perhaps reflecting the watchmaker’s biggest markets. The “Shahnameh” set, on the other hand, reproduces scenes from a piece of art that might be less well known in...

Introducing: The 45mm Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Pink Gold And Black DLC Titanium Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph Aug 28, 2025

Introducing: The 45mm Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Pink Gold And Black DLC Titanium

The first three iterations of the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph were essentially watch equivalents of hypercars. Those chronographs, made of high-tech materials and unapologetically showing their highly tuned performance “engines,” came in bold, sporty colorways. The fourth version is different. Reference RDDBEX1138 comes in a pink gold and black DLC titanium case instead […] Visit Introducing: The 45mm Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Pink Gold And Black DLC Titanium to read the full article.

Seiko vs. Citizen: Comparing the Icons of Japanese Watchmaking Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Aug 28, 2025

Seiko vs. Citizen: Comparing the Icons of Japanese Watchmaking

Seiko and Citizen are the two undisputed titans among Japanese watch brands, known and admired worldwide for their technical excellence, design acumen, and legendary price-to-value ratio, not to mention the role that both brands have played in the technological and cultural evolution of watchmaking in general. And while these world-renowned companies have been fierce competitors from the beginning, they have a lot in common as well. Here we present a side-by-side comparison of Seiko vs. Citizen, starting with their earliest days and concluding with an overview of what each brand is doing today.  Seiko vs. Citizen: Origins of Two Japanese Watch Pioneers With its very high-tech lineup and avant-garde designs, one might be inclined to think Citizen Watch Company is a relatively new player on the worldwide watch scene, but one would be mistaken. The company today known as Citizen was founded in 1918 by Kamakechi Yamazaki as the Shokosha Watch Research Institute. The name “Citizen” first appeared on the dial of a pocket watch that Shokosha produced in 1924; it is believed to have been suggested by Yamazaki’s close friend Shinpei Goto, then the mayor of Tokyo, who believed such a watch should be universally appealing and accessible to all “citizens” of Japan.  Shokosha merged with the Schmid company, a Japan-based manufacturing firm founded by expatriate Swiss watchmaker Rodolphe Schmid, in 1930 to become Citizen. Joining the expertise of Shokosha’s Japanese watchm...

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin with The Twelve 660 Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin Aug 28, 2025

[VIDEO] Christopher Ward Goes Ultra-Thin with The Twelve 660

When Christopher Ward’s The Twelve debuted a few years ago, I have to admit I was a little skeptical at first. At the time, every brand under the sun was trying to get into the integrated bracelet sports watch game, and on paper The Twelve seemed a little derivative (there were many, many comments about its resemblance to a certain integrated bracelet sports watch from a much loved indie brand). Those first watches were…exactly fine. I appreciated the execution and the price point, but they weren’t really for me – I think it was the logo inspired dial texture that didn’t quite work to my eye. But over a relatively short time, The Twelve has evolved. Lots of new colors, sizes, and dial treatments means that there’s basically a Twelve for anyone, and the watch has become an effective platform for some of Christopher Ward’s most adventurous watchmaking. Indeed, their marquee release for 2025, the C12 Loco, is based on the architecture of The Twelve. And you know what? After being around these watches at Windups and other enthusiast events, I’ve even warmed up to that dial texture. Tastes change, what can I say?  All of this is to say that The Twelve is maturing, and has been around long enough at this point to win people over who might not have been on board at the start. And that’s the environment into which Christopher Ward is releasing what seems to be to be among the most exciting watches in The Twelve collection yet, the new The Twelve 660. The name ...

Expanding Horizons With The New Horage Lensman 2 Global Fratello
Aug 28, 2025

Expanding Horizons With The New Horage Lensman 2 Global

Horage is a brand that has never seemed content to sit still. Its watches often blur the line between experimental design and technical innovation, and the Lensman series has been one of the clearest examples of that. Now, the family grows with the Lensman 2 Global, a watch combining worldtimer and GMT functions. The company […] Visit Expanding Horizons With The New Horage Lensman 2 Global to read the full article.

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Aug 28, 2025

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations

Vacheron Constantin is celebrating its 270th anniversary in 2025 with a steady stream of new releases. Among them is a pair of fresh takes on one of the most elegant sports watches in its stable, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. This model has long been a showcase of the maison’s ability to balance sportiness and […] Visit Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin In Two New Dial Variations to read the full article.

Christopher Ward Slims Down The Twelve: Introducing The Twelve 660 Fratello
Christopher Ward Slims Down Aug 28, 2025

Christopher Ward Slims Down The Twelve: Introducing The Twelve 660

Christopher Ward has a knack for surprising us. Just when you think you’ve got a handle on its direction, the brand finds a way to shift gears. The Twelve collection was already a strong contender in the genre of integrated-bracelet sports watches. Now, with the new Twelve 660, Christopher Ward shows it can play the […] Visit Christopher Ward Slims Down The Twelve: Introducing The Twelve 660 to read the full article.

Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Fratello
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Aug 28, 2025

Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

One of the most interesting developments in the world of watches recently is the use of color. We have seen a drastic shift in overall color use, particularly on dials, over the past few years. The conservative world of watches predominantly likes its dials to be black, white, or dark blue. Add any shade of […] Visit Discovering The Magic Of The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer to read the full article.

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green SJX Watches
Bulgari may have edged it Aug 28, 2025

Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is Lean and Green

The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon was the world’s thinnest tourbillon wristwatch at launch last year. Though it’s no longer the record holder, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept (AUC) Tourbillon remains as interesting and gossamer as ever – and more wearable than its ultra-thin rivals. Now the AUC Tourbillon returns in khaki green and gold livery, but Piaget understands it is not easy being green and will tailor the AUC Tourbillon to taste with its customisation program. The new AUC Tourbillon makes its debut with the matching Altiplano 910P Khaki Green that’s dressed in a darker shade of the colour, while being more affordable by multiples. Initial Thoughts Until a few months ago, the AUC Tourbillon was the thinnest tourbillon ever. While Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon from Bulgari may have edged it out by 0.15 mm earlier this year, that’s probably a distinction without a difference as the two are equally ethereal in person. The AUC Tourbillon is incredibly interesting in technical terms, and the movement hides little from view. Even the balance is flying, without an upper bridge and instead supported by ball-bearings. And the watch looks and feels like a watch, and not a credit card or bangle. Yet, and this is important, it remains durable enough to actually wear on an everyday basis, historically not always the case with extraordinarily flat watches, and even marginally water resistant. To me, the AUC Tourbillon joining Piaget’s Infinitely Person...

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Releases 2025 [Live From The Utrecht Watch Valley Event] Fratello
Swatch Aug 28, 2025

Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Releases 2025 [Live From The Utrecht Watch Valley Event]

Welcome to another on-location episode of Fratello Talks, this time from the Watch Valley event in Utrecht, where the Swatch Group unveiled its latest novelties for 2025. In attendance were Nacho, Daan, and RJ, keen to get a full preview of the year’s releases from the brands present. The event was packed with exciting novelties […] Visit Fratello Talks: Swatch Group Releases 2025 [Live From The Utrecht Watch Valley Event] to read the full article.

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tissot Aug 27, 2025

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Review

As it stands, Tissot remains one of the most cost-effective and dynamic points of entry into the wild world of Swiss watches. Last week, we took a deep dive into the history of Tissot, charting its journey from its beginnings all the way back in 1853 to how the brand has adapted to the watchmaking landscape of today. We are gathered here today to plunge even more granularly into the contemporary Tissot catalog with, you guessed it, the Gentleman collection, which is among the brand’s top contenders for a one-and-done watch collection, if such a thing truly exists.  Though we’ve already taken on the subject of the Tissot Gentleman in various roundups and a couple of our videos, we, surprisingly, haven’t dedicated a standalone review to the subject. So buckle up, because all that’s about to change moving forward.  Tissot Gentleman History While I’ve already alluded to our more sweeping article on Tissot’s over-century-long legacy, it’s always necessary to chart some hot historical plot points first, so we can have a more holistic view of how the brand has arrived at the Gentleman as we know it today. The story begins in 1853 in Le Locle, Switzerland (one of the historical hearts of Swiss watchmaking), with father-son duo Charles-Félicien Tissot and Charles-Émile Tissot, who turned their home into a humble watch factory. At its start, the Tissot workshop began as a comptoir d’etablissage, combining the father’s skill as a gold case fitter with his son's ...

Albishorn Introduces the Marinagraph, a Unique Regatta Timer Worn & Wound
Aug 27, 2025

Albishorn Introduces the Marinagraph, a Unique Regatta Timer

Albishorn has accomplished quite a bit in its first year. It was around this time in 2024 that we were introduced to the brand through a collaboration with Wiiliam Massena. The Maxigraph introduced the tantalizing concept of the brand in an easily digestible way: these would be “imaginary vintage” watches inspired by alternate versions of watch history. It’s a clever spin on the well understood and perhaps overused idea of the “vintage inspired” watch that allows for a great deal more creativity and whimsy. Zach Weiss recently reviewed the Albishorn Type 10 and was impressed with both the execution and concept behind the piece. The new Marinagraph, available in two versions, is the next iteration of the Albishorn project. On its surface, this is a chronograph inspired  by the classic regatta timer. And, in some ways, it’s exactly that. But of course Albishorn has crafted a much more interesting story behind the Marinagraph, which is based on telling the “untold chapter in the evolution of the skin diver chronograph.” Albishorn says that the Marinagraph story starts with the 1958 running of the America’s Cup, the sailing competition that was first contested in 1851. The 1958 race was the first one after a period of dormancy, and introduced 12-Meter class yachts to the competition, which represented a significant advancement in technology to the sport, carrying sailing into a new, modern era.  The Marinagraph is a watch that might have accompanied the cre...

Exploring New Territory With The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite If Aug 27, 2025

Exploring New Territory With The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite

If one model in the Zenith collection shows the great diversity of the brand’s creative explorations, it’s the Chronomaster Sport. Introduced in 2021, the popular chronograph has quickly become one of the brand’s great successes. Additionally, the design team has used the Chronomaster Sport as a thankful canvas for exploring a wide variety of creative […] Visit Exploring New Territory With The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite to read the full article.

About Time - How Two Writers Made The Most Elusive Concept Kid-Friendly Fratello
Aug 27, 2025

About Time - How Two Writers Made The Most Elusive Concept Kid-Friendly

Time is one of those slippery concepts that even adults struggle to define. We live by it, complain we don’t have enough of it, and try to manage it with apps and alarms, but ask a child to explain it, and you’ll likely get a blank stare or a shrug. That’s what makes About Time: […] Visit About Time - How Two Writers Made The Most Elusive Concept Kid-Friendly to read the full article.

The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch Fratello
Nodus Aug 27, 2025

The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch

With the Contrail GMT, Nodus delivered one of my favorite affordable GMT watches that is currently available. The Los Angeles brand showed that an awesome travel watch does not have to cost more than €1,000. On top of that, the quality and level of finishing of the Contrail is nothing short of impressive. Stating that […] Visit The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch to read the full article.

Introducing – The new Armin Strom Tribute 1 Sandstein Monochrome
Armin Strom Tribute 1 Sandstein Known Aug 26, 2025

Introducing – The new Armin Strom Tribute 1 Sandstein

Known for its complex watches with in-house movements using highly innovative solutions to improve accuracy, such as the spectacular resonance concept and the Gravity Equal Force, indie watchmaking brand Armin Strom decided in 2021 that it was time to offer something more focused, simpler, more elegant and yet distinctively its own. The result was the […]

Massena Lab and Vianney Halter Team Up for Steampunk Regulator SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 26, 2025

Massena Lab and Vianney Halter Team Up for Steampunk Regulator

Massena Lab’s latest collaboration is a steampunk regulator wristwatch created together with Vianney Halter. Blending the best of both their respective styles, the Old Soul is an unusual yet appealing proposition for collectors looking to get a sampling of the independent watchmaker’s best known works. The Old Soul displays the time regulator-style, with the hours, minutes, and seconds on separate registers. But it indicates the minutes with a clever trick: a “floating” minute pointer on a clear sapphire disc. Inside is a vintage Minerva movement that’s been dressed up for the occasion but still recognisable as an early-20th century calibre. Initial thoughts The Old Soul a continuation of the collection that began with the Old School made together with Luca Soprana. If Massena Lab founder William Rohr’s aesthetic sensibilities prevailed with the earlier watch, it is Mr Halter’s signature style that dominates the Old Soul. The Old Soul is unquestionably quirky - both as a whole and in the details. The watch looks like a regulator, but lacks the traditional vertical sub-dial arrangement. It also lacks a central minute hand, featuring instead a “floating” diamond-shaped pointer. The “floating” hand is a nifty optical illusion but it’s a straightforward concept that replaces the hand with a clear disc. Inside the piece ticks an equally unexpected movement, a “new old stock” Minerva cal. 17.22. According to Massena Lab, it was the discovery of a fo...

Introducing: The Old Soul By Vianney Halter And Massena Lab Fratello
Massena Lab Over Aug 26, 2025

Introducing: The Old Soul By Vianney Halter And Massena Lab

Over the past few years, we have seen Massena Lab team up with several interesting brands. For this new creation, William Massena’s collaboration laboratory joined forces with Vianney Halter to produce the Old Soul. This timepiece blends the science fiction of steampunk with watchmaking references from the early 1900s. Additionally, it houses a vintage Minerva […] Visit Introducing: The Old Soul By Vianney Halter And Massena Lab to read the full article.