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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™ Deployant
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 Aug 16, 2025

New: Panerai Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 & PAM01698 Carbotech™

Panerai’s Submersible Marina Militare PAM01697 and PAM01698 are tactical evolutions of the brand’s dive watch lineage, paying tribute to the Italian Navy’s aviation division (Aviazione Navale). Both models feature green-grained dials, radar-style subdials, and engraved casebacks, but diverge in material execution-one in brushed steel, the other in Panerai’s proprietary Carbotech™.

Hands-On With The New Guebly CH1 Rétrograde Fratello
Aug 16, 2025

Hands-On With The New Guebly CH1 Rétrograde

While Watches and Wonders rightfully garnered most of the attention this past April, other brands took the opportunity to show off their wares in nearby venues. Time to Watches was an event held next to Palexpo. I found myself there several times for appointments and had a particularly lovely time sitting down with Adnane Kerd, […] Visit Hands-On With The New Guebly CH1 Rétrograde to read the full article.

The Evergreens – The History of The IWC Aquatimer and Other Important IWC Dive Watches Monochrome
IWC Aquatimer Aug 15, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of The IWC Aquatimer and Other Important IWC Dive Watches

Since its founding in 1868, IWC has built a reputation for producing instruments where precision engineering meets uncompromising functionality. This approach, a combination of Swiss watchmaking tradition with an emphasis on mechanical problem-solving, has consistently produced watches designed to serve a clear purpose. This philosophy is very much evident in IWC’s dive watches, also known […]

Hands-On: the Apiar Gen1.0 Worn & Wound
Aug 15, 2025

Hands-On: the Apiar Gen1.0

The British brand Apiar has an intriguing slogan emblazoned across the front page of their website: Impossible Watches. Made Possible. If you spend enough time thinking about watches, collecting watches, and learning about watches, you begin to realize their limitations. Whether they’re chronometry related or have to do with the design and build of the watch itself, there are certain things that just can’t be done, or else stretch the limits of our current technology to the point where those things aren’t remotely feasible. The crazy idea you had for a watch case that defies the laws of physics might be something that only exists on paper.  Additive manufacturing and 3D printing technologies have the potential to change that. When a metal object is formed by adding material to it rather than stripping it away, a manufacturer can create shapes, textures, and structures that would be impossible otherwise. Apiar’s Gen1.0 is a thrilling example of the possibilities of 3D printing in watch manufacturing. They’re by no means the first to create watches this way, of course, but they’re part of a new class of brands using the technology in an experimental way that seems to finally make the most of it, creating not just beautiful objects that defy watchmaking convention, but watches that redefine our expectations around durability, lightness, and other metrics by which all of us evaluate these things. Importantly, the use of additive manufacturing also democratizes wat...

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands Fratello
Aug 15, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands

Another Friday, another list! This week, it’s time for the second installment of our series on affordable watches. Last week, we discussed our favorite mechanical watches under €500 from big brands. This second article focuses on the best watches for under €500 from small brands. Call them independents or microbrands, you get the idea. The […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Watches Under €500 From Small Brands to read the full article.

Omega Upgrades the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise with a Ceramic Bezel SJX Watches
Omega Upgrades Aug 15, 2025

Omega Upgrades the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise with a Ceramic Bezel

Omega continues its trickle of summer releases with the Aqua Terra 150M Turquoise, which has its smoked turquoise dial now matched with a black ceramic bezel for a cohesive look. Available in both 38 mm and 41 mm formats, the new Aqua Terra is pricier and arguably less versatile than the standard Aqua Terra, yet is strongly appealing – is the blue worth the green? Initial Thoughts The ceramic mania that gripped the industry a few years ago has cooled, but the material is here to stay, and this example is all the better for it. We’ve already seen this dial on a pair of bracelet-borne Aqua Terra earlier this year. Now it’s back with an integrated rubber strap and complementary black ceramic bezel. Even though this lacks the bracelet of the all-steel version, it’s more expensive, priced at about US$1,000 over the steel model on a bracelet. The retail price of US$7,300 is still affordable, and acceptable given the level of quality, but the value proposition is less clear. While the Aqua Terra’s boardwalk-to-boardroom versatility makes it a prime candidate for someone’s sole, “go anywhere, do anything” watch, the exotic colour palette and lack of a bracelet rule it out as such for most people. Instead, I imagine Omega is targeting brand fans who are less price-sensitive looking for a summer watch. Even for an owner of more than one Omega, the new Aqua Terra is different enough to make it interesting. Deja Blue While no longer novel, the fume turquoise dial rema...

Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition In Steel And Yellow Gold Fratello
Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Aug 14, 2025

Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition In Steel And Yellow Gold

I bet you’ve read the expression “When life turns you upside down, simply adjust your view!” before. The saying came to mind when the latest version of the Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition arrived at Fratello HQ. This steel and yellow gold monopusher chronograph has an open-worked movement, and this in-house caliber 16.26 […] Visit Hands-On With The Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Minerva Chronograph Limited Edition In Steel And Yellow Gold to read the full article.

Selten and Collector Community Watch Ho and Co. Team Up for a New Collaboration in Tahitian Mother of Pearl Worn & Wound
Aug 14, 2025

Selten and Collector Community Watch Ho and Co. Team Up for a New Collaboration in Tahitian Mother of Pearl

Selten impressed me earlier this year with the release of their Grand Feu Enamel series, which features deeply engraved and colorful dials made in a traditional enamelling process. Artistic, craft forward dials made from interesting materials are their stock in trade, so it’s no surprise that they seem to be flourishing at this particular moment, when there’s a real hunger among collectors for watches that offer something a little more daring. As a certified mother of pearl addict (DM me if you need help finding a support group in your area) their latest release, a collaboration with the Hong Kong based watch collecting community Watch Ho & Co caught my eye. The Jui 聚 (which translate to “to meet, to gather”) features a dramatic Tahitian mother of pearl dial that is CNC engraved to form an elaborate and complex pattern. According to Selten, the design is inspired by ancient China, and the pattern itself is lifted from a motif often used in body armor. Over time, these shapes came to symbolize strength and security, which the brand is now pitching as a testament to the bonds formed within the watch community. This of course is a guiding principle that makes a lot of sense given the collaboration with a community of watch collectors. It’s underscored by the ethos of Watch Ho & Co with an engraving on the caseback reading “Good Vibes Only.”  I’ll be honest, I’ve seen a lot of watches over the years with dials featuring abstract or obscure design motifs th...

Five Underrated Watches Under $5,000 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay P01 It Aug 14, 2025

Five Underrated Watches Under $5,000

There’s a universal appeal to the idea of the hidden gem. Whether it’s a watch, a movie, or a vacation destination, we all enjoy reveling in the underrated to some extent. It’s part of that sense of discovery that draws us to an enthusiast pursuit in the first place. As the watch world, and enthusiasm around the hobby grows, it gets harder to identify watches that are truly underrated – every watch seems to have its moment in the sun.  We thought it would be fun to identify a handful of watches that feel genuinely underrated at this particular moment, all under $5,000. Let us know your picks in the comments!  Zach Kazan – Tudor Black Bay P01 It was surprisingly challenging for me to think of the right underrated watch to discuss here. One of the problems with the way we talk about watches in 2025 is that everything, from the most mundane, black dialed diver, to highly experimental haute horlology, is heaped with praise. It’s not that the praise isn’t always warranted – there are a lot of great watches out there – but the inverse of this question, the most overrated watches on the market, would probably be a little easier to respond to. But, in the interest of keeping things positive, we thought, for now, we’d try to shine a light on some watches that don’t get enough attention.  Usually when we’re creating a group oriented list like this, my mind immediately goes to the independents. You could say I’m always trying to highlight the underrated s...

Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial Fratello
Farer Integra Viridis Aug 14, 2025

Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial

What I love about Farer is that you recognize their watches instantly. Over time, the English brand has developed a collection with a very distinct style. The dial colors, the font types, and the colorful overall presence of the watches have gained Farer many fans. The latest addition to the line-up is the new Integra […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial to read the full article.

Introducing: Two New Breitling Endurance Pro Watches For The IRONMAN 70.3 World Championship 2025 Edition Fratello
Breitling Endurance Pro Watches Aug 14, 2025

Introducing: Two New Breitling Endurance Pro Watches For The IRONMAN 70.3 World Championship 2025 Edition

Breitling announces two new Endurance Pro models for the IRONMAN 70.3 World Championship triathlon for 2025. The events occur in Nice, France, and Kailua-Kona, Hawaii, with the championship finale in Marbella, Spain. To coincide with the upcoming races, the Endurance Pro uses new color combos to freshen up for the exotic locales. Specifically celebrating the […] Visit Introducing: Two New Breitling Endurance Pro Watches For The IRONMAN 70.3 World Championship 2025 Edition to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches? Fratello
Aug 14, 2025

Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches?

This week, on Fratello Talks, RJ, Thomas, and Nacho are asking the question: Does storytelling still sell watches? For decades, brands have built emotional bridges to their customers with tales of adventure, endurance, and achievement. Think of the watches strapped to astronauts on lunar missions, divers exploring the ocean’s depths, or pilots navigating across continents. […] Visit Fratello Talks: Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches? to read the full article.

Business News: Audemars Piguet Advances Vertical Integration with Inhotec SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Advances Vertical Integration Aug 14, 2025

Business News: Audemars Piguet Advances Vertical Integration with Inhotec

Audemars Piguet (AP) has just announced a majority stake in Inhotec, a supplier of components for high-end mechanical movements. Long a supplier to AP, Inhotec produces parts ranging from base plates to springs, in both raw and fully decorated states. The value of the deal was not revealed, but founder Alexandre Eme will retain a minority stake and continue to serve as chief executive of Inhotec, which was founded in 2011. According to the announcement, AP will “provide strategic and financial support” while leaving Inhotec to retain “operational autonomy” over “managerial decisions, industrial activities and commercial relationships”. Lucas Raggi, the chief industrial officer of AP, explains the acquisition “is about consolidating key strategic skills and supporting the continuity of an expertise that is essential to the future of haute horlogerie“. AP’s acquisition of Inhotec reflects two trends. One is the longstanding and continued development of AP’s production capabilities, exemplified by the recent inauguration of the expansive Arc manufacture in Le Brassus. The other is macro, a slowdown in business for specialised suppliers across the watchmaking value chain.  

Building a Watch From Scratch In Brooklyn Worn & Wound
Aug 13, 2025

Building a Watch From Scratch In Brooklyn

Have you ever considered what it would take to start a microbrand? I was deep in an instagram doom scroll when a field watch I’d yet to see abruptly stopped my thumb. “I love this watch. My good friend made this by hand and it’s incredible. He makes them in Brooklyn from scratch. Check out his work” my buddy Greg’s caption read. I was digitally introduced to Giles Clement.  Raised in the Catskills, he was always a tinkerer. It probably started with him putting old lawnmower engines on wheels as a makeshift go-kart, but he has always had the gift of creating something from nothing.  A decade ago he stumbled upon a massive petzval lens at a thrift shop outside Chicago. This launched a years-long endeavor of building his own large format camera and teaching himself wet plate photography. Before he knew it, he was in a tent at a music festival in Rhode Island taking a portrait of Kris Kristofferson with a giant camera made of plywood and trash bags. The rest is history.  Photo by Jonah Markowitz He went on to have a successful photography career, capturing portraits of folks like Nick Offerman, Fiona Apple, Channing Tatum, Questlove, Roger Waters, Elvis Costello and various other high profile figures, as well as several fine art series.  Suddenly in 2020, like many others in the film and photography industry (myself included), work disappeared and he found himself on a forced hiatus. Never one to have idle hands, he began repairing watches. Ebay offered access to...

Introducing – Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Unveils the Double Balance Wheel Monochrome
Aug 13, 2025

Introducing – Chinese Indie Watchmaker Qian GuoBiao Unveils the Double Balance Wheel

Long considered a low-end production site for accessible timepieces (which is still partially true), the Chinese watch industry is fast changing and evolving in a positive direction. Besides industry giants such as Peacock and Seagull (the latter capable of making split-second chronographs), there’s a burgeoning indie scene that needs to be explored. We can name […]

Review – The Magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold Monochrome
A. Lange & Sohne Aug 12, 2025

Review – The Magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Honeygold

The Odysseus disembarked at A. Lange & Söhne in 2019, making a big splash as the brand’s first serially produced stainless steel luxury sports watch with an “integrated” steel bracelet and 120m water-resistance. Thanks to its unique personality and unmistakable provenance, the Odysseus rowed against many stylistic conventions established by top-tier luxury sports watches. During […]

Rolex GMT-Master II Review: The Bruce Wayne Rolex Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Aug 12, 2025

Rolex GMT-Master II Review: The Bruce Wayne Rolex

Before getting into the so-called "Bruce Wayne Rolex," let's establish some context. The Rolex GMT-Master is one of the Crown’s most popular models when it comes to the Professional line. It’s been an icon going back to its release in 1954, born out of a partnership with PanAm (in reality, it was a masterfully executed piece of marketing) that gave way to a new jet-setting, time-zone-malleable timekeeper. Since then, the GMT-Master (now the GMT-Master II, incorporating an even more user-friendly dual-time indication) has stood alongside the Datejust and Submariner as a core icon for the brand. It has also represented a platform for innovation for Rolex, being the first model line to see the brand transition to its “Super Case” format and its use of Cerachrom bezel tech. This paved the way for the introduction of a new, steel GMT-Master II in the late aughts with a black Cerachrom bezel insert, a green GMT hand, and green dial text. This stood for years as the most under-the-radar option for potential GMT-Master II buyers that didn’t feel comfortable slapping on a "Batman" or a "Pepsi." However, like many other popular models, it was discontinued. We saw echoes of its design materialize in form of the “Lefty” GMT, with its bi-color green-and-black bezel and matching green GMT hand. But the “Sprite” didn’t strike the same chord as that discontinued OG. Then the 70th anniversary of the GMT-Master rolled around in 2024, and Rolex surprised us all when it re...

Introducing – The New Unimatic ModelLo Uno Prodiver Collection Monochrome
Massena Lab where archival design cues Aug 12, 2025

Introducing – The New Unimatic ModelLo Uno Prodiver Collection

Unimatic is a relatively young yet popular Milan-based independent watchmaker with a loyal following. Thanks to its minimalist, military-inspired dive watches, the brand has attracted international attention through its own collections and various collaborations, most notably with Massena Lab, where archival design cues met Unimatic’s modern, utilitarian aesthetic. These projects have cemented Unimatic’s reputation as […]

Introducing – New Moonshine and Sedna Gold Editions of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Monochrome
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Only Aug 12, 2025

Introducing – New Moonshine and Sedna Gold Editions of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

Only a few weeks ago, Omega released a new orange-accented edition of what is its most iconic dive watch and one of the brand’s most emblematic models to date, the Seamaster Diver 300M. Part of a comprehensive revamp strategy to restructure the collection and breathe new life into this classic (with new steel, titanium and […]

Fratello On Air: The Watches For New Collectors Entering The Hobby Fratello
Aug 12, 2025

Fratello On Air: The Watches For New Collectors Entering The Hobby

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we answer a listener’s question about the watches new collectors should consider when entering the hobby. It’s a question that has been asked many times, but, frankly, it’s been a while since we’ve tackled it. For our listeners, the watch talk begins after 23 […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Watches For New Collectors Entering The Hobby to read the full article.

Introducing The Seiko 5 Sports × Pepsi Limited Editions - Are These The First Watches With Official Pepsi Bezels? Fratello
Rolex s GMT-Master was Aug 12, 2025

Introducing The Seiko 5 Sports × Pepsi Limited Editions - Are These The First Watches With Official Pepsi Bezels?

When people mention Pepsi in the watch world, they refer to the red and blue colors on a GMT or dive bezel. Rolex’s GMT-Master was the first watch with such a bezel, but Seiko also made numerous watches with red and blue bezels. In a surprising turn of events, Seiko has now launched two new […] Visit Introducing The Seiko 5 Sports × Pepsi Limited Editions - Are These The First Watches With Official Pepsi Bezels? to read the full article.

Qian GuoBiao’s Double Balance Wheel Proves Less Can Still Impress Fratello
Aug 11, 2025

Qian GuoBiao’s Double Balance Wheel Proves Less Can Still Impress

The latest creation to leave Qian GuoBiao’s bench is the Double Balance Wheel, a watch that takes a quieter approach than his last major release, Facing The Sky 2.0. By contrast, Double Balance Wheel is stripped back to the essentials. It is about balance, proportion, and mechanical harmony. And yet, it is already making its […] Visit Qian GuoBiao’s Double Balance Wheel Proves Less Can Still Impress to read the full article.