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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made Worn & Wound
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years of the Aqualand, One of the Most Unique Dive Watches Ever Made

There are lots of dive watches out there – it’s perhaps the most ubiquitous of all the watch genres. Frankly, it’s easy to see why. In addition to being highly specialized for a very specific task, they tend to work incredibly well as casual, everyday watches regardless of what you happen to be doing with them. The reason for this is very much because of the design traits these watches share that make them so highly specialized: ultra clear legibility, robust water proof cases, and a generally nondescript design that allows the watch to be worn easily with a wetsuit and also blend into the fabric of our everyday lives.  But then there are a handful of truly unusual dive watches that give away their specialized nature even at a passing glance. They look less like watches and more like obscure devices or instruments that should only be used by people who really know what they’re doing, have received the necessary training, and perhaps have signed a liability waiver. The Omega Ploprof immediately comes to mind, as does something like the Singer Divetrack – these are watches that play with the form of what we understand a watch to be in the name of functionality. Citizen, for 40 years, has also made a watch that fits neatly into this category: the Aqualand. The name is a bit of an oxymoron, but the watch itself is less confusing. It has always been a uniquely specialized instrument tailored to the specific needs of divers.  This year marks the 40th anniversary of t...

The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss Fratello
Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Jun 5, 2025

The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss

The Swatch press release for this watch says it’s “inspired by the unexplored.” The deep green new Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss with touches of black (bezel) and beige (markers, hands, bezel numerals, etc.) takes inspiration from the ocean’s depths. Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss This is the ninth Blancpain […] Visit The Best Thus Far? Meet The Blancpain × Swatch Fifty Fathoms Green Abyss to read the full article.

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver Fratello
Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Jun 5, 2025

Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver

In 1985, Citizen revolutionized the world of dive watches by introducing the Aqualand. Among the standout features of this then-state-of-the-art dive tool were the multifunctional digital display and built-in electronic depth gauge. The latter gave the watch its distinct shape, with the depth sensor’s hardware element protruding from the left side of the case. The […] Visit Citizen Celebrates 40 Years Of The Aqualand With A Limited Edition Of The Depth-Gauge Diver to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition Monochrome
Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Jun 5, 2025

Introducing – The New Citizen Aqualand Promaster 40th Anniversary Limited Edition

In certain very specific situations, one’s life could very much depend on a watch, especially when it comes to environments humans are not good at surviving without support. And this is where tool watches can, literally, play a vital role. Plunging ourselves into the depths of the ocean, for instance, is a fine example of […]

Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches Fratello
Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Jun 5, 2025

Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches

I wrote a lengthy review on the stainless steel Type XX Chronographe 2067 late last year. You can find (and read) it here. If you want to skip to the conclusion, I ended that review with the following paragraph: “I hope Breguet will introduce more variations of the modern Type XX that are closer to […] Visit Introducing: The New Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075 Watches to read the full article.

Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date SJX Watches
Breguet s Latest Type XX Jun 5, 2025

Breguet’s Latest Type XX is Vintage Inspired and No-Date

Following the Classique Souscription, and Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, Breguet continues its 250th anniversary roll-out by turning to its signature pilot’s watch. The Type XX Chronographe 2075BH debuts in two variants in “Breguet gold”: a regular production with a black aluminium dial and a 250-piece limited edition with a sterling silver dial. Both are handsome and stay mostly true to the model’s heritage thanks to faithful sizing and a manually-wound movement. The regular production with a black aluminium dial (left), and sterling silver dial of the limited edition Initial Thoughts The new Type XX ticks many of the boxes from an enthusiast’s perspective with its compact dial and concise dial that does without a date and hour totalizer – both welcome reductions to the first-generation design. That said, the Breguet gold case is limiting due to the price. A stainless steel case would’ve been even more appreciated, though that will probably arrive in due time. While the cal. 7278/7279 in the new Type XX is technically excellent – like most Breguet calibres – the thoroughly modern construction doesn’t complement the vintage-inspired design. Adapting the cal. 582 used in the 1990s Type XX might have been more interesting due to its lateral clutch construction and increasingly rare cam-control system, though the cal. 7278/7279 reads better on a spec sheet with its vertical clutch. And to preserve the vintage feel, a solid, hand-engraved case back might...

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure SJX Watches
Hamilton shut down Jun 4, 2025

J.N. Shapiro Debuts Entry-Level Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...

Introducing – The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure Monochrome
Jun 4, 2025

Introducing – The New J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Pure

J.N. Shapiro, one of the celebrated names in independent watchmaking, has earned a following for his masterful use of traditional guilloché and thoughtful, almost philosophical approach to design. Founded by former educator Josh Shapiro, the California-based brand gained recognition with the Infinity Series, showcasing the artisanal craft with Shapiro’s now-signature “Infinity Weave” guilloché pattern. The […]

What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? Fratello
Rolex Land-Dweller? Jun 4, 2025

What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller?

The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC Fratello
Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jun 4, 2025

Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC

Watch brands launch special editions on every occasion, from anniversaries of their founding or famous models to the signing of new ambassadors and the opening of new flagship boutiques. Let me introduce you to the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle, a special-edition watch launched to celebrate the new Hublot Fifth Avenue flagship boutique. It […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Concrete Jungle - A Special Edition For NYC to read the full article.

Bulova Devil Diver Review Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Jun 3, 2025

Bulova Devil Diver Review

The Bulova Devil Diver (formally known as the Bulova Oceanographer) first debuted back in the 1960s, when it went on to become something of a cult classic. It wasn’t a record-breaking dive watch worn by the world’s most accomplished that-and-that, it just had a striking design, and there was something edgy and subversive about that “666ft” on the dial. Of course, that number has to do with its water resistance and nothing sinister, but the Devil Diver moniker is really catchy and has stuck. Back in 2018, Bulova reissued the Oceanographer, but at 44mm wide it was just not what a lot of people were clamoring for. A few years later, in 2021, came this 41mm wide version that is much truer to the original. Four years later, the affordable dive watch market has gotten more competitive but the Bulova Devil Diver still holds its own, so let’s take a look at what makes this orange-dial diver feel like a slice of heaven for well under $1,000. Bulova Devil Diver Case: When the Bulova Devil Diver was first reintroduced back in 2018, there were quite a few gripes we all heard about the 44mm case being just way too big and not true to the original. Fortunately, the 2021 iteration brought the case back to the 41mm size of the original, a decision that won over the hearts of some jilted purists. To be fair, you do not have to be a vintage purist to see why a 41mm case will always be preferable to 44mm to a vast majority of contemporary buyers. Of course, the ~202 meters of water...

Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko 9F models but all Jun 3, 2025

Hands-On: the Trafford Watch Co. Daytripper

I have the unfortunate obligation to begin this review with a shocking admission: Zach Kazan was right. Some time ago, during one of my back-to-back travel periods where I jumped through time zones, I had a spirited debate with our Managing Editor. I maintained that I not only enjoyed having a GMT, but needed one to keep my timing straight; while Zach insisted that I was wrong. In the past, a traveller’s GMT had been an invaluable tool in the workplace, keeping me mindful of editors working in other time zones. Yet, Zach argued that all you needed was an independently adjustable hour hand and some basic math skills. If you are working across time zones, do the math. If you are traveling through them, change the hour without messing with minutes and seconds. Immediately upon landing back in New York from a trip to London, I started looking for an Omega Aqua Terra.  During my search, it struck me as odd that this jumping hours complication (without an associated GMT) was not more widely seen, and never really on the more attainable side of things. Sure, you can find it in models from Omega, parts of Citizen’s The Citizen collection, the Ming 17.09, and newer Grand Seiko 9F models; but all of those will set you back a few thousand dollars. That is, until now. As if from some stroke of divine intervention, I received word of a new watch coming from Trafford Watch Co., utilizing a clever movement alteration to achieve this complication at a much more attainable price point...

I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Jun 3, 2025

I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch

The Omega Speedmaster is a great watch. That’s probably not a controversial statement. But is it a great first Swiss watch for those looking to start their way along the winding path of their horological journey? After some reflection on mine, I’d say it is. Let me explain why. The Omega Speedmaster is an icon. […] Visit I Should Have Bought A Speedmaster As My First Watch to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Jun 3, 2025

Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79

Laurent Ferrier is one of my favorite modern watchmakers, so when a new LF model comes out, it always piques my attention. This time, I got the chance to go hands-on with the latest creation, the Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79. And that, my dear Fratelli, is a chance I wouldn’t dream of passing up. […] Visit Hands-On With The Decadent Yet Tasteful Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 to read the full article.

Watch Propaganda I’m Not Falling For Worn & Wound
Jun 2, 2025

Watch Propaganda I’m Not Falling For

If you’ve opened Instagram or TikTok in the last few weeks, there’s a very good chance you’ve seen the “Propaganda I’m Not Falling For” trend served up to you in one way or another. The format is relatively straightforward, and involves a creator listing the sacred cows in his or her particular area of expertise that they refuse to buy into.  The watch community, of course, is filled with conventional wisdom, ideas passed from collector to collector, rarely if ever questioned. As I encountered these social media clips over the last week, I couldn’t help but think of the watch world propaganda, as it were, that we all just seem to take at face value.  Here, then, are four principles I think are ripe for questioning. There are a lot more – credit here to Ben’s Watches and Pulse on the Wrist for being first out of the gate among watch industry personalities to participate. Be sure to let us know in the comments what watch related propaganda you refuse to accept.  A Vintage Watch Must Be Unpolished and All Original  Let’s get the most controversial one out of the way first. When I started collecting watches, it was an era when it was still relatively easy and straightforward to buy a nice, honest vintage watch on eBay for not a lot of money. Times have changed. The best examples, watches that are truly unpolished and all original, are harder and harder to find, and eBay is filled with watches that have been passed around and sold by pro dealers and amat...

The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise Worn & Wound
Oris Hölstein Edition Jun 2, 2025

The Latest Oris Hölstein Edition is a Blacked Out ProPilot with a Glowing Surprise

For the sixth year in a row, Oris has launched a watch on the anniversary of their founding. The Hölstein Edition watches, which debut each year on June 1, are an opportunity for Oris to celebrate their heritage, release a watch that’s perhaps a little outside the box, and have some fun in the process. Previous Hölstein Editions include an Aquis diver with a bold purple dial, the revival of a classic complication, and, most recently, an unusual and very cool blacked out edition of their classic Divers Sixty-FIve. A throughline through these watches is the appearance of the Oris Bear, and for this year’s Hölstein Edition we get a particularly fun cameo from the brand’s mascot via a fully lumed dial. This year’s watch is a fresh take on the ProPilot, Oris’s contemporary, aviation inspired watch. For this limited edition (as with previous Hölstein Editions, this one is limited to 250 pieces) the stainless steel case has been given an aggressive black DLC treatment. It’s still, of course, unmistakably a ProPilot, with the hallmark fluted bezel and the gently curved 41mm case.  This is much more than a blacked out ProPilot, though. Oris is having a lot of fun with the dial, giving it a full lume treatment that appears white in the daylight and glows green in the dark when the luminescent material is activated. The Arabic numerals, dial text, and hands are all in matte black, which makes the dial easy to read in both well lit situations and, importantly, in the ...

Hide The Bear With Oris! - Meet The ProPilot Hölstein Edition 2025 Fratello
Casio n? It’s Jun 2, 2025

Hide The Bear With Oris! - Meet The ProPilot Hölstein Edition 2025

I am sure you are familiar with the Oris Hölstein Editions. If not, the principle is simple: Oris introduces a limited-edition watch every year to celebrate the brand’s birthday. This year, the house turns 121, which is certainly a justifiable reason to celebrate. What’s the watch to commemorate this occasion? It’s the Oris ProPilot Hölstein […] Visit Hide The Bear With Oris! - Meet The ProPilot Hölstein Edition 2025 to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Futurustic Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition Fratello
Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Jun 1, 2025

Hands-On With The Futurustic Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition

I must confess that I am not a big gamer, so I had to brush up on my knowledge of Death Stranding to create a bit more context before putting the Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition on my wrist. The watch was created to celebrate the release of the hit game’s sequel. As […] Visit Hands-On With The Futurustic Hamilton Boulton Death Stranding 2 Limited Edition to read the full article.