Deployant
Review: the new Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
The "Pilot" watch company has decided to bring in a new line which dives into the deep blue sea. Here's the in-depth review of the latest Zenith Defy Extreme Diver.
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Deployant
SJX Watches
Farer Combines the Monopusher Chronograph and GMT
Farer unveils the Monopusher GMT in two variants, Cobb and Segrave, names might be familiar to those following the brand, as they were also the names of its now-discontinued single-button chronograph models. The new Monopusher GMT offerings are essentially identical in design to their respective predecessors but now sport a second time zone. Both models share the same cushion-shaped stainless steel case, similar to that used for the Chronograph Hand-Wound, but thicker to accommodate the triple-stacked hands in the centre. Initial thoughts Micro brands occupy a unique niche in the market. They often equip their watches with no-frills but cost-efficient ETA or Selita calibres, or even cheaper movements, but set themselves apart aesthetically while excelling at marketing online. Farer is a perfect example of this, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The hand-wind Sellita calibre inside the Monopusher GMT is elaboré grade, but still basic. Farer, however, has done a good job at dressing it up. The Segrave on a “Milanese” bracelet And over on the front, the overall design is simple and clearly vintage inspired, but still manages to possess the Farer aesthetic thanks to its use of geometric shapes and primary colours. The cushion-shaped case has a familiar 1970s style, but it stands out with a knurled surface on the recessed case sides. Priced at US$2,195, the Farer Monopusher GMT is priced similar to its “micro” brand competitors but offers good value compared to e...
SJX Watches
Business News: New CEOs for Hublot and TAG Heuer
Expected but not quite so soon, longtime Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe is retiring after two decades at its helm, first as managing director for eight years followed by another 12 years as chief executive, during which he oversaw the expansion of Hublot’s manufacture as well as collaborations like the Daniel Arsham pocket watch. Now 59 years old with some four decades in the watch industry, Mr Guadalupe will be replaced by Julien Tornare, who was only just named to the top job at TAG Heuer in January 2024 when Frederic Arnault was named chief executive of the LVMH Watches Division. In turn, Mr Tornare will be succeeded by Antoine Pin, who was most recently head of Bulgari’s watch business. Who succeeds Mr Pin has not yet been officially announced. All the new appointments take effect come September 1, 2024. From left: Julien Tornare, Frédéric Arnault, Ricardo Guadalupe, and Antoine Pin Mr Guadalupe is a watch industry lifer, having started in the business at Bulgari in the mid 1980s before moving to Blancpain and then Hublot. For about a year now, Hublot insiders have been saying Mr Guadalupe appeared ready for retirement, though the announcement still comes as unexpected. Slated to become the Honorary President of Hublot after he steps down, Mr Guadalupe’s retirement might be due in part to the marked slowdown in the watch industry, which no doubt contributed to the significant management overhaul at Richemont, where new faces were appointed to the chie...
Hodinkee
Business News: More C-Suite Musical Chairs As LVMH Shuffles TAG Heuer, Hublot, And Bulgari CEOs
Julien Tornare to leave TAG Heuer and lead Hublot amidst market softening.
Time+Tide
WatchPro report on our upcoming London Discovery Studio
Check out what WatchPro has to say about us opening up our new Watch Discovery Studio in London later this year. The post WatchPro report on our upcoming London Discovery Studio appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Visiting The SpaceOne Tellurium Atelier in Paris - A Photo Report
A few months back, I had the distinct pleasure of visiting the SpaceOne Watches workshop on the outskirts of Paris. Guillaume and Theo, the men behind SpaceOne, were kind enough to show me around, explain the idea behind their latest creation, the Tellurium, and let me snap some shots during the visit. Enjoy the pictures […] Visit Visiting The SpaceOne Tellurium Atelier in Paris - A Photo Report to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo
The Venezianico Nereide Aureo is the latest release from the small Venetian brand. It’s also a dive watch with interesting materials and processes that come together at an affordable price. Let’s check out this intriguingly colored watch. We’ve looked at several Venezianico watches on Fratello and have been impressed with them. Today’s Nereide Aureo uses […] Visit Introducing: A Flash Of Gold With The Venezianico Nereide Aureo to read the full article.
Time+Tide
How Omega Olympic timekeeping technology maximises precision, fairness, and storytelling
Andrew visits Swiss Timing LTD to explore Omega timekeeping that will elevate the experience of the 2024 Paris Olympics to the next level.The post How Omega Olympic timekeeping technology maximises precision, fairness, and storytelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes
By now, you are probably aware that Christopher Ward is hard to beat in terms of affordable luxury watches. One of the brand’s most popular series is the C63 Sealander, and within it, the GMT models are particularly in demand. We never reviewed the watch, so it was about time that we did. But not […] Visit A Hands-On Comparison Of The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT In Two Different Sizes to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches
Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Squale 1521 Marina Militare Limited Edition
Squale is a brand that holds a warm spot in my heart. I sold Squale watches when I worked at Amsterdam Watch Company. I was involved in the marketing of a limited edition back then, and I have gotten to know the team. It is one of those sympathetic smaller companies that rely on personal […] Visit Hands-On With The New Squale 1521 Marina Militare Limited Edition to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
O.G. Deep Space: Classic Methods, Modern Aesthetic
At its core, the O.G. Deep Space is a very simple watch without any gimmicks masquerading as features, allowing it to be observed and appreciated for what it is, a solid time-only watch. It displays the hours and minutes on a supremely clean dial that lacks pomp or flourish, with just enough going on to create a strong first impression.
Fratello
Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models
What happens if you elongate the design of a G-Shock “Square”? You get the new GD-B500 series. No, I’m just kidding. That’s an unfair and cheeky observation. However, the G-Shock Square is an immediate association as it is such an iconic silhouette. As a result, it’s tempting to compare any square or rectangular digital watch […] Visit Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Watch Scrolling: Chris Antzoulis Picks Five Fun Instagram Accounts by Community Oriented Creators
It’s been just about a year since we last scrolled. But we’re back, flicking fingers and double tapping with more fervor than ever before. This series started as a way to try and avoid the horrors of losing oneself in doom scrolling through the vastness of Instagram, and to instead serve up a bounty of accounts worthy of your hearts and comments. As Worn & Wound has broadened its reach, so have we in the depth of our scrolling. While watches may make us drool, we also like to indulge in other hobbies, as well as EDC. Today, contributor Chris Antzoulis picks five IG accounts that he thinks are worth a follow. @sophies.watch.world View this profile on Instagram Sophie Cassaro (@sophies.watch.world) • Instagram photos and videos The world of watches doesn’t have to be so serious all the time, and Sophie routinely invites us into her world, through her Instagram and YouTube account, to share a bit of her wacky humor. Yet, she still manages to deliver on the history of different watches and brands, and brings up relevant questions for us to ponder. Whether it’s asking her followers if they’ve considered neo-vintage quartz watches, or if we’ve paid attention to how different brands choose to market their watches, it’s clear that Sophie wants us to question not only what we enjoy about the watch community, but why we enjoy it, and how we can make it better. And because she delivers the message in a digestible and fun way, it’s easy to engage with her....
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Updated Otsuka Lotec No.6 by Japanese Watchmaker Jiro Katayama
In May of this year, we introduced Jiro Katayama, an independent watchmaker from Japan, and his brand Otsuka Lotec, which, despite its distribution being limited exclusively to his home country, has gained recognition across the continents. We had the pleasure of experiencing one of his models, the recently updated Otsuka Lotec No.6, and here are […]
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll
Ulysse Nardin releases a new Ladies Diver watch dubbed Atoll. This is a new addition to their 39mm Diver collection, which now numbers 19.
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Furlan Marri Disco Volante - An Intricate Dress Watch With A Different Take On Vintage
After a successful three-watch collaborative effort last year, the guys from Furlan Marri are back, remaining true to their creative nature. Instead of riffing off their existing catalog, the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante genuinely surprised me. Small brands tend to find a stable recipe for success and stick to it. And this is true […] Visit Hands-On With The New Furlan Marri Disco Volante - An Intricate Dress Watch With A Different Take On Vintage to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches
The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...
Fratello
Vintage Watches: A Pair Of Movado Sport Models With Borgel Cases
I have handled a lot of watches over the past 30 years. To my knowledge, though, I had never held a Borgel-cased watch until sometime last year. Now I own two Borgel pieces, and they’re worth sharing. Both are Movado Sport models from the ’50s and are lovely regardless of the case maker. My interest […] Visit Vintage Watches: A Pair Of Movado Sport Models With Borgel Cases to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Accessible Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC, Now in a Fresh White-Blue Edition
Released last year, the Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC is a watch that’s hard to not objectively find brilliant. Combining a nice retro design with modern specs and a truly fair price, it even comes equipped with a chronometer-certified movement – making it one of the most accessible Swiss chronometers on the market. This handsome, affordable […]
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This time, we discuss exit watches after receiving a great topic request from one of our favorite listeners. It’s a familiar theme we may have touched upon before. Let’s see if our collective tastes have changed. For our listeners, watch content starts after eight minutes. Exit watches […] Visit Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
Industry News – Richemont Reports Stable Sales For Q1 2024, Results Down for Watches
Following the announcement yesterday of decreasing sales for the Swatch Group, particularly impacted by the industry’s challenging situation in China and South East Asia, it is time today for one of its main competitors, Richemont Group, to announce its sales for the first quarter ended 30 June 2024. Contrary to expectations, global sales are to […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 7941A1A0NU
Among Tudor’s new releases for 2024, the most conservative is undoubtedly the Black Bay 41 METAS ref. 7941A1A0NU, which offers a monochrome, black-and-white alternative to the gilt-and-burgundy ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003 introduced last year. Initial thoughts The new Black Bay 41 (BB41) feels instantly familiar. In fact, it’s a little surprising that it wasn’t already in the collection, being about at straightforward as a contemporary dive watch can be. But what it lacks in surprise, it makes up for in simple, tangible quality. While the BB41 was the original Black Bay – launched a dozen years ago now – it now sits atop a range that also includes the smaller Black Bay 58 and even more compact Black Bay 54. The BB41 METAS’ dimensions of 41 mm by 13.6 mm thick mean it wears similar to a modern Rolex Submariner; those looking for vintage proportions should consider the BB58 and BB54. Of course, the big news is METAS certification for the MT5602-U movement, which now carries a “U” suffix to identify it as a METAS-certified Master Chronometer. The differences from the standard MT5602 used to date are likely minimal, since the movement has always had a silicon hairspring, one of the most important features for resisting the METAS standard’s 15,000 gauss anti-magnetism test. The difference, therefore, is that the movement’s high-performance specs have been confirmed by an independent test. Tudor is all about value, and the BB41 METAS is no exception. Available with...
Fratello
Hands-On With Delugs Delcro Straps - The Smartwatch Strap Makes A Move Toward Luxury
Last year, I bought a digital sports watch to keep track of my running and rowing sessions. Since I’m very much an amateur athlete, I went with a Coros Pace 3, an entry-level exercise tracker. I got it on a Velcro strap because I heard it helps with adjustability, and honestly, it’s very comfortable and […] Visit Hands-On With Delugs Delcro Straps - The Smartwatch Strap Makes A Move Toward Luxury to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Astor+Banks Launches the Sea Ranger M2
Astor+Banks has debuted the long awaited Sea Ranger M2, a watch that brand founder Andrew Perez has been working on, tinkering with, and previewing for over a year. At this weekend’s Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, he finally had production versions on display for all to see, and it was well worth the wait. It’s easily the most refined and well thought out watch in the Astor+Banks catalog, a natural evolution of what came before and a logical extension of the Sea Ranger line. This is a dual crown diver in four colorways: black, blue, army green, and a rich brown the brand refers to as “tobacco.” As you’d expect, one crown controls the time setting and winding duties, while the other rotates the internal bezel, which is lumed on all four variants. This is a really fun effect and the lume is applied liberally for a bright glow that will be genuinely useful in low light situations. The dials all have a matte finish. The case is 40mm in diameter, 12.5mm tall, and 45.5mm lug to lug. On the wrist it feels very well proportioned, and the overall machining quality and finishing is top notch, and feels like a step up from previous Astor+Banks efforts. The bracelet is a match for the case in finishing quality and has a lovely taper from 20mm down to 16mm at the clasp. Astor+Banks, responding to feedback from collectors, is using the NodeX clasp by Nodus on the Sea Ranger M2, which offers easy micro-adjustments up to 10mm. The Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 has a retail price ...
Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Rounding Up Five Watches Under $5,000
From a sporty option from NOMOS Glashütte to a lightweight BVLGARI Chronograph and beyond.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Launches a New 38mm Version of The Twelve with the “Ice Cream Collection”
In recent years, the Windup Watch Fair has played host to a number of notable debuts from some of our favorite watch brands. It’s a great time to launch a watch, after all. With hordes of watch enthusiasts descending on Chicago’s Venue West over the weekend, brands had a captive audience to launch splashy new releases. Christopher Ward, a Windup mainstay for years, keenly understands this, and jumped at the chance this weekend to debut colorful new versions of The Twelve in a new 38mm case size. The enthusiast favorite size rounds out a varied collection of integrated bracelet sports watches that have driven a lot of interest in the brand since they launched a little over a year ago, and Christopher Ward, as always, is having some fun with color in this new batch. The brand has dubbed these the “Ice Cream Collection” for their bright colors, all of which are inspired by ice cream and thus feel perfectly timed as a summer watch release. The new, cleverly named colors are Biel-Berry, Mint 38, Peach Sellita, and Made in Mangohead. They all feature the now familiar Christopher Ward flag motif repeated across the dial, and come on integrated stainless steel bracelets as well as color matched rubber straps. We had a chance to see these in the metal in Chicago over the weekend, and, pardon the cliche watch writer terminology, the colors really do pop. My personal favorite is easily the Peach dial, but talking to fair attendees over the weekend it was clear that all of t...
SJX Watches
Moser’s Latest Perpetual is Minimalist and Purple Fired Enamel
H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...
Fratello
IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Wise Guys Concept Limited Edition
The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic has quickly become a welcoming canvas for the creativity of the IFL Watches team. For its newest the creation, the brand was inspired by the “three wise monkeys” and the timeless proverb they depict. In great IFLW tradition, the colorful dial is modified to portray the proverb in a fun way. […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Wise Guys Concept Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
Could A Vintage Longines Made Of Silver Scratch That Piaget Itch At A Fraction Of The Price?
I am not usually one to veer towards sterling silver watches nor the more angular cases of 1960s and ’70s dress pieces. So this article will feature not one but two new elements in a watch for me to explore. This vintage Longines has a charm that has gradually won me over. While I don’t […] Visit Could A Vintage Longines Made Of Silver Scratch That Piaget Itch At A Fraction Of The Price? to read the full article.