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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Longines Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Jul 8, 2024

Longines Watches Guide

In 2022, Longines marked 190 years in operation, which means that the Swiss watchmaker’s bicentennial year is just around the corner. In nearly two centuries of continuous operation, Longines has not only been a reliable producer of watches in all kinds of styles for both men and ladies; it has also been responsible for more watchmaking milestones than you probably know. Here we take a look at the remarkable history of Longines watches. Foundations (1832-1908) Longines was founded in 1832, originally as Raiguel Jeune et Cie., in the Swiss Jura town of Saint-Imier by Auguste Agassiz and two partners. Agassiz (above, left) became the sole proprietor in 1846 after both partners, attorneys by trade, retired from the watch business, and shortly thereafter, he brought his nephew, an enterprising economist named Ernest Françillon (above, right), into the company. It was Françillon, in 1867, who moved all of the firm’s various watchmaking disciplines - which were scattered throughout dozens of independent workshops called établisseurs - under one roof, to a factory that was situated in a scenic area called “Les Longines” or “The Long Meadows,” thus giving the company its now-familiar name. In 1889, Francillon registered the famous Longines logo with a winged hourglass - today the world’s oldest unchanged, active logo according to the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO). Among Longines’ many milestones under Françillon’s management were the c...

Fratelli Stories: Serving In The Kampfschwimmer With An Issued IWC Fratello
Porsche Design these titanium watches had Jul 8, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Serving In The Kampfschwimmer With An Issued IWC

In the 1980s, IWC introduced a series of highly specialized dive watches for the Kampfschwimmer, an elite German military dive unit. Made in conjunction with Porsche Design, these titanium watches had IWC technology and ingenuity behind them. As military-issued versions of the IWC Ocean 2000, they are now referred to as the “Ocean Bund” among […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Serving In The Kampfschwimmer With An Issued IWC to read the full article.

Introducing – The Andersen Genève x BCHH Celestial Voyager “Sunset over Cappadocia” Version 2 Monochrome
Jul 8, 2024

Introducing – The Andersen Genève x BCHH Celestial Voyager “Sunset over Cappadocia” Version 2

Longtime Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee had a dream of creating beautiful, high-end watches. To manifest his vision, he created the BCHH (Benjamin Chee Haute Horlogerie) brand and reached out to master watchmaker Svend Andersen of Andersen Genève to create the Celestial Voyager, a sophisticated world timer with a handcrafted enamel dial. Following the sold-out success […]

A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” Fratello
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” Jul 8, 2024

A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak”

Grand Seiko’s first all-mechanical complicated watch debuted in 2022. It was a timepiece with a movement featuring a tourbillon with an inner carriage rotating at eight beats per second and a constant-force mechanism rotating at one beat per second. Not only was the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 a complicated and ingenious watch, but […] Visit A Monday Morning With The Grooviest Watch In The World: The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon “Daybreak” to read the full article.

Hot Take: The New Longines Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition Fratello
Longines Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition Jul 8, 2024

Hot Take: The New Longines Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition

Back in early 2023, Longines brought back the famous Majetek pilot’s watch. This tribute to the 1935 Czechoslovak-military-issued wristwatch was the second and, to us, more successful reinterpretation after an earlier version in 2014. Today, however, Longines is back with another variation on the Majetek theme, this time in titanium. Let’s take a quick first […] Visit Hot Take: The New Longines Pilot Majetek Pioneer Edition to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Citizen Fortis G-SHOCK Oris Jul 7, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep.84: What’s Old is New Again

The summer slowdown is kicking in. New releases are down to a trickle, and pretty soon, Europe will just close for vacation, leaving us American media up to our own devices until they return at the end of August for Geneva Watch Days. This week we have one update to a much-loved line by Baltic, a new complication from Ochs Und Junior that is either really confusing or just not well explained, and then a new, smaller version of one of Vero’s most popular watches. Next time, we’ll be recording in Windup Watch Fair Chicago, which should promise some new and fun things. This week’s episode is brought to you by Windup Watch Fair Chicago, which is preparing to kick off on July 12th. Eindup Chicago is heading into its third year and will feature over 40 brands, including Christopher Ward, Citizen, Fortis, G-SHOCK, Oris, and many more. Located at Venue West in West Town, it’s sure to be another exciting year. Learn more at Windupwatchfair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep.84: What’s Old is New Again appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Explorer Vs. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Fratello
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Jul 7, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Explorer Vs. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra

The Rolex Explorer, with its stainless steel Oyster case, glossy black dial, and mix of applied indexes and numerals, is one of the most iconic sports watches out there. Recently, Omega launched a new version of its Seamaster Aqua Terra, which, in terms of design, comes quite close to the iconic Explorer. It has a […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Explorer Vs. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: IWC Watches in an Upcoming F1 Film Starring Brad Pitt, One Year of Threads, and What the “The Bear” Gets Right About Working in Restaurants Worn & Wound
Hamilton s production company It’s Jul 6, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: IWC Watches in an Upcoming F1 Film Starring Brad Pitt, One Year of Threads, and What the “The Bear” Gets Right About Working in Restaurants

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. IWC Watches Featured in F1 Movie Starring Brad Pitt  If you’re a movie fan, you’re probably already looking forward to the still untitled Formula One movie coming next year starring Brad Pitt and directed by Joseph Kosinski. It’s Kosinski’s big follow up to Top Gun: Maverick, one of the most successful movies ever made by just about any metric, so anticipation is high. The film is produced by Jerry Bruckheimer, Plan B Entertainment (Pitt’s production company) and Dawn Apollo Films, which is Lewis Hamilton’s production company. It’s that bit of information that has had some in the watch world speculating about a possible IWC tie-in, and this week we received official word from the brand that they will in fact be involved in the project. According to IWC, several models from the Pilot’s Watches collection will be featured on the wrists of different characters.  The partnership underscores a strong relationship between IWC and the world of Formula 1 racing, particularly with the Mercedes-AMG Petronas team. IWC has been the Official Engineering Partner of the team since...

Lex Goes Road-Testing The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” And Himself Fratello
Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Jul 6, 2024

Lex Goes Road-Testing The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” And Himself

What’s the best way to test the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” to the fullest? You take it out for a spin - a long one from Bern to Zermatt, for instance. The Chasing Cancellara Bern–Zermatt cycling event is a 310km endurance race that also has its participants overcome 5,000 meters of climbing. Fabian […] Visit Lex Goes Road-Testing The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” And Himself to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches In Movies - Featuring Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, And More Fratello
Hamilton Citizen Jul 5, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches In Movies - Featuring Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we’re looking at some of the best watches featured in famous movies. But we’ll stick to the affordable options rather than drumming up some more expensive ones. Maybe we will get to those in a different article. For now, let’s focus on affordable watches with great stories of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Watches In Movies - Featuring Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer Fratello
Jul 5, 2024

Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer

Today’s Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer visited us at Fratello HQ, and we were left impressed by the brand’s latest release. Brellum focuses on numbered, low-production editions with a high value-to-price ratio. This piece may be the most compelling yet. It’s hard not to be cynical when looking at the prices of new watches. […] Visit Hands-On With The New Brellum Pandial Marina Bicompax Titanium Chronometer to read the full article.

Introducing: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Variations Fratello
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Jul 5, 2024

Introducing: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Variations

Some watches are more emblematic of their manufacturers than others. The Royal Oak is certainly the brand hero for Audemars Piguet. The opening of calibers, however, is equally characteristic of the Maison from Le Brassus. So it is no exaggeration to say that an openworked Royal Oak is about as AP as it gets. The […] Visit Introducing: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Variations to read the full article.

Is Tudor’s New Black Bay More Compelling Than The Rolex Submariner? Fratello
Tudor s New Black Bay Jul 5, 2024

Is Tudor’s New Black Bay More Compelling Than The Rolex Submariner?

Today, I want to talk about why I would opt for a modern-day Tudor Black Bay over a modern-day Rolex Submariner. The reasons are subjective and not based on specifications. I would also love to read your views in the comments section. Read on. Rolex and Tudor are part of the same family. However, since […] Visit Is Tudor’s New Black Bay More Compelling Than The Rolex Submariner? to read the full article.

Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe Jul 5, 2024

Blancpain Introduces Bathyscaphe with Ceramic Bracelet

Blancpain just unveiled an all-ceramic bracelet to match the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe models in black ceramic: the time-and-date, flyback chronograph, and Quantième Complet (or triple calendar). Positioned as the entry-level model in the Fifty Fathom collection of historically-inspired dive watches, the Bathyscaphe has long been available in ceramic, so a bracelet is long overdue. According to Blancpain, each link of the bracelet unique in shape and size, so each link has to be manufactured individually, requiring an enormous amount of skilled labour – which helps to explain the price of almost US$8,000 for the bracelet. All three are now available with a matching bracelet Initial thoughts Though it was a pioneer in the dive watch as we know it, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has remained fairly under the radar, despite its relatively strong price-quality ratio. The ceramic bracelet for the Bathyscaphe helps it stand out, as few brands offer a matching bracelet for ceramic watches. While ceramic watch cases are common and found across the price spectrum, ceramic bracelets remain relatively uncommon, especially bracelets that are hand finished with a brushed surface like this. All links are manufactured individually, with each link differing in shape and size The ceramic bracelet is expensive – it costs just under US$8,000 extra compared to the same on a strap. That means the three-hand diver costs US$21,300, while the flyback chronograph and triple calendar are both US$...

The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jul 5, 2024

The Seiko Pogue SSC 947: Your Guide

There are some watches out there that have achieved a rare sort of infamy and the Seiko Speedtimer 6139, also known as the “Pogue,” is one such watch. It is named after Colonel William R. Pogue who wore one during NASA’s Skylab missions. It was also the first automatic chronograph to travel to space. It’s become an icon because of its historical bona fides, but also because of it’s positively ridiculous (read, charming) colorway that fits so well in the ‘70s decade in which it was conceived. Key aesthetic tenets of a Pogue are the red and blue bezel insert and a certain yellowish-gold dial. It’s the sort of gold color that’ll have you conspiracy theorizing that this watch was in the Pulp Fiction briefcase.  All of this backstory and preamble is to intentionally bury the lede and tell you that Seiko has, today, brought the Pogue back…sort of. Say hello to the Speedtimer Solar Chronograph, SSC947 which follows in the recently established design format of the solar Speedtimer range – the 41.5mm case size version of which the current Pepsi bezel SSC913 is a personal favorite. I remember when the line was announced and really loving the execution from the compact pushers to the great case size to the overall thinness due to the lack of a mechanical movement. And look, while the Pogue owes much of its fame to the fact that it housed an automatic caliber, we cannot just expect brands to issue 1:1 remakes of classic models. Seiko needs to innovate. It found a ...

The Zenith Defy Skyline Gets the White Ceramic, Skeleton Dial Treatment Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Skyline Gets Jul 4, 2024

The Zenith Defy Skyline Gets the White Ceramic, Skeleton Dial Treatment

I’ll be upfront here: I love the Defy. All the Defys. I’ve said many times to many people that the Defy is probably my favorite sports watch line of all time. It’s certainly my favorite corner of the Zenith catalog, and vintage Defy references are some of the coolest you can own, and somehow still represent a great value compared to comparable sports watches from other brands. To me, these watches have historically been exactly the right combination of avant-garde design and sports watch functionality. A Defy, unlike a Submariner, for example, can be both an art piece and an everyday wearer. They are also consistently interesting from a materials perspective, particularly when they get into colored ceramic, as they have with the newest Defy introduced today, a successor of sorts to one of my favorite watches from last year.  The Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton is in some ways a predictable, natural evolution of the current generation Defy. It takes the ceramic case and bracelet we saw in last year’s black model, turns them white, and gives us the skeleton dial treatment that debuted early last year. It’s a similar trajectory to the Defy Classic releases from several years back, which started in titanium, with colorful skeletonized ceramic versions to follow.  This new reference is a little different though for how it plays with contrast. Against the stark white of the case and bracelet, we get a skeletonized blue dial and a movement in a matching shade. Tha...

#TBT Watching The UEFA Euro 2024 With The Gallet Basketball & Football Timer Fratello
Jul 4, 2024

#TBT Watching The UEFA Euro 2024 With The Gallet Basketball & Football Timer

There will hardly be a better time to feature my Gallet Basketball & Football Timer than now, just a day before the Euro 2024 quarterfinals begin. However funny it may sound, imagine me sitting on the couch and starting my timer the moment the next match starts. That’ll be me tomorrow! Collecting pocket watches is […] Visit #TBT Watching The UEFA Euro 2024 With The Gallet Basketball & Football Timer to read the full article.

Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jul 4, 2024

Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Review

Good things tend to come in threes. Turning a triple play in baseball, hitting a trifecta in horse racing, three of a kind in poker - all of these are cause for celebration for those who achieve them. Nailing a clutch three-pointer in basketball can send a home crowd into euphoria, and “third time’s the charm” is the motivating mantra for every budding success story battling obstacles and doubts. In horological terms, one of the most desirable trilogies can be found in the so-called “Triple Calendar,” a style of timepiece that occupies the sweet spot between the simplest of calendar complications - your date and day-date functions - and the higher and accordingly pricier echelons represented by annual and perpetual calendars.  The Triple (also known as the “Complete”) is the simplest type of full-calendar function in that it displays all the information a wearer could need to determine the exact date - month of the year, day of the week, and date of the month- but also requires adjustment at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. (An annual calendar will make this adjustment for you in every month except February, while a perpetual calendar will adjust for every month all the way up until the year 2100 - always assuming, of course, that you, or whomever you pass the watch on to, keeps it wound all those years.) As I also point out in my guide to watch complications, these calendar indications are often, but not always, accompanied by a moon-p...

Hands-On With The Revamped Sinn 903 St II In Black Fratello
Sinn 903 St II Jul 4, 2024

Hands-On With The Revamped Sinn 903 St II In Black

One of the perks of my line of work is that I sometimes get to experience watches I wouldn’t have normally sought out. Nacho requested the Sinn 903 for himself to test but found his schedule overfilled with management responsibilities and handed the watch to me. So I strapped on the newly revamped Sinn 903 […] Visit Hands-On With The Revamped Sinn 903 St II In Black to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go? Fratello
Jul 4, 2024

Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go?

Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, Nacho, RJ, and Daan ask themselves the question: where did all the watches go? Whether consciously or otherwise, watch spotting is something every watch-minded person partakes in. It may be when walking down the street, at your office, in a restaurant, or even on holiday - […] Visit Fratello Talks: Where Did All The Watches Go? to read the full article.