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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

My Watches May Be Strap Monsters, But I’m Not Worn & Wound
Jan 16, 2025

My Watches May Be Strap Monsters, But I’m Not

I’m not a big fan of New Year’s Resolutions. Despite my own participation in the tradition, the idea of trying to tie major life changes or new habits to something as both arbitrary and specific as the New Year has always been somewhat anathema to me. Still, despite my resistance to making specific commitments at the start of a fresh calendar year, I don’t think there’s any doubt that the arrival of January can set the stage for a refresh. It’s in that mindset that I found myself spending much of the last week reorganizing basically my whole life. And by my whole life, I mean my desk (and the various drawers and organizers that surround it). A primary focus of this odyssey has been a set of metal Ikea drawers that operate as the functional center of my watch habit. One area in need of particular attention here was my strap drawer, in no small part because of its increasing annexation of other parts of my organizational ecosystem - a problem exacerbated by a shift in approach that existed in direct conflict with my existing storage logic. I don’t remember who first introduced them to me, but for the last few years, I’ve been storing my straps in a slowly increasing count of Muji Polypropylene Pen Cases (I think I first saw them on another collector’s Instagram, but for the life of me I can’t remember whose). With two compartments, one large enough for straps, the other perfectly sized for spring bars or loose links, these cheap plastic pencil cases make ...

Oris Celebrates a Big Anniversary, and Closes a Chapter, with the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition Worn & Wound
Tudor money Jan 16, 2025

Oris Celebrates a Big Anniversary, and Closes a Chapter, with the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition

This week, at their annual press event in Vail, CO, Oris unveiled the latest edition of the Divers Sixty-Five, the Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition. While some have met the news of yet another trip to the Divers Sixty Five well with some confusion or bemusement considering the big launch of its natural successor, the Divers Date, last year, the writing was on the wall that this was coming. I mean, it’s right there in the name of the watch, and the arithmetic is easy. Nobody misses a chance to celebrate an anniversary in this industry, and the Divers Sixty-Five is more than worthy of the treatment.  Before we get into the specifics of the new model, which we’re told is the true swan song for the Divers Sixty-Five, I think it’s worth stepping back and looking at the origins of the Sixty-Five and what makes it a genuinely important watch in the realm of enthusiast focused divers. While the original Divers Sixty-Five did indeed debut 60 years ago, the modern revival version has had a much more widespread impact. Oris brought the Sixty-Five back about ten years ago in a watch climate that was really beginning to see vintage inspired watches, particularly midcentury sports watches and divers, gain traction. The timing was perfect, and for new enthusiasts entering the hobby in those heady days, the Divers Sixty-Five was an easy recommendation on forums (remember those?) if a new collector wasn’t quite ready to spend Tudor money. The Sixty-Five not only offered ...

Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement Fratello
Jan 16, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement

Every journey has an end and inspires us to set out on a new adventure. Today, we celebrate #TBT, one of the longest-running columns in Fratello’s history. We are happy to announce that after 10 long years, our Thursday contemplation on vintage watches has gotten a refresh. Let’s kick off a new Retrospective series with […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Breaks Prejudices With A Barrel-Shaped Gallet Powered By A Fine Excelsior Park Movement to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: How Much Should You Spend On Your First Watch? Fratello
Jan 16, 2025

Fratello Talks: How Much Should You Spend On Your First Watch?

Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. How much should you spend on your first watch? It’s a valid question we’ve all faced at some point. However, there are plenty of different ways to answer it. Today, Nacho, RJ, and Daan delve into the topic and discuss their approaches to budgeting for a first […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Much Should You Spend On Your First Watch? to read the full article.

Peter Speake is Back with PS Horology and the New Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son Worn & Wound
Jan 15, 2025

Peter Speake is Back with PS Horology and the New Tsuba Blue and Tsuba Dong Son

Last week, Peter Speake returned to the independent watchmaking scene when he unveiled the first pieces from his new brand, PS Horology. Peter is something of a legendary figure in the indie watchmaking world. He is the co-founder of Speake-Marin, which launched in 2002 after Peter spent a period of time working as a watchmaker for Renaud & Papi in Le Locle, Switzerland. Speake-Marin is perhaps best known for the Piccadilly case design, named for the London district where Peter spent the early part of his career restoring vintage watches. The Piccadilly case, I’ve always felt, is something of an acquired taste. I’ve come to really love it, and see it as a symbol of an earlier era of independent watchmaking when these artisanal, handcrafted watches made in very small batches were not at the front of anyone’s mind. Times, of course, have changed for the better, and indies are currently having the quite the moment, but it’s worth remembering that a line can be drawn from any of the buzzy new indie watchmakers to surface in the last few years all the way back to Peter and his early 2000s contemporaries. To put it plainly, it’s great that he’s back.  Peter founded PS Horology back in 2022 and has been working on the first collection ever since. The Tsuba watches seen here are expected to be the first of several projects for PS Horology in 2025. While it might not look like it on an initial glance, there’s actually connective tissue between the Piccadilly cases of...

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jan 15, 2025

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite

Diversity is arguably a strength – and a weakness – of the Speedmaster – and Omega is proving this with the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite. In contrast to the recent military-inspired Speedy, the latest model goes for exotic materials:  the dial is made of lunar meteorite finished in either grey or black, while the moon phase sports twin moons similarly fashioned from meteorite. The moon phase display is a double moon that depicts the age of the moon in both the northern and southern hemispheres. Completing the celestial scene, the stars on the moon phase disc replicate the night sky when Apollo 11 landed on the Moon in 1969, as observed from Omega’s headquarters in Biel. Initial thoughts Maybe the new Speedmaster is an ironic reference to the “Moonwatch” nickname. In fact, it doubles the Moon reference with Moon meteorite fragments and the moon phase. But does the Speedmaster need to be dressed up with a moon phase and meteorite? Intrinsically, the new model has a few things going for it. The in-house movement inside is one of Omega’s top-of-the-line chronograph calibres. And it also has a scaled-down case that improves wearability. Now 43 mm, the watch has a more compact form than its chunky 44.25 mm predecessor. Despite the in-house movement and liberal use of meteorite, the Speedmaster Moonphase still feels pricey with a retail of US$17,100. That said, most recent Speedmaster models are expensive – this costs only US$1,500 more than the Speedmaster C...

The Five Best Current Regulator Watches - Featuring Louis Erard, Chronoswiss, Patek Philippe, And More Fratello
Patek Philippe Jan 15, 2025

The Five Best Current Regulator Watches - Featuring Louis Erard, Chronoswiss, Patek Philippe, And More

Regulator watches are not often the first, second, or third pick for a collection. The watches with a large central hand to indicate the minutes and smaller sub-dials to display the hours and seconds are an acquired taste. This non-coaxial configuration might seem odd initially, but quickly enough, you will get used to reading the […] Visit The Five Best Current Regulator Watches - Featuring Louis Erard, Chronoswiss, Patek Philippe, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition Fratello
Oris Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Jan 14, 2025

Hands-On: The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition

In 1965, 61 years after Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded the company, Oris revealed one of its most iconic models, the Oris Divers. Then, five decades later, it took the form of a heritage reissue called the Divers Sixty-Five. Today, it’s time to celebrate the original’s diamond jubilee with the presentation of the Oris […] Visit Hands-On: The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five 60th Anniversary Edition to read the full article.

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Jan 14, 2025

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite

Something we’ve learned about the Speedmaster over the years is that it can be, quite literally, anything. The Speedy is effectively a brand unto itself, with watches in the collection that strike just about every note possible in watchmaking. There are traditional vintage inspired Speedmasters, modern and tactical Speedmasters, Speedmasters with a jewelry focus, Speedmasters that exist to display Omega’s prowess in chronometry, and Speedmasters that are overtly obsessed with NASA and space exploration. There are even plastic Speedmasters and Speedmasters with Snoopy on the dial (which of those Speedys is made for children is an open question). Speedys come in all sizes, are made in every metal imaginable (plus some not-metals), and, even though Speedmasters are, if nothing else, chronographs, they’ve been made with a whole bunch of other complications as well. This is all just to say that in the world of Speedmasters, it’s hard to be surprised in 2025. So when Omega began teasing a new Speedy on social media recently and the guessing game began, every suggestion seemed possible.  Today, Omega announced the new Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite, a 43mm stainless steel Speedy with a meteorite dial (in two finishes) and double moonphase display at 6:00. It also features a new caliber capable of displaying the correct moonphase for both the northern and southern hemispheres.  This isn’t the first time Omega has incorporated meteorite into a Speedmaster. My personal ...

Introducing – Japanese Watchmaker Otsuka Lotec Presents the No.5 KAI, With Satellite Hour Display Monochrome
Otsuka Lotec Jan 14, 2025

Introducing – Japanese Watchmaker Otsuka Lotec Presents the No.5 KAI, With Satellite Hour Display

A not-so-young-brand that only appeared recently on the international scene and an independent watchmaker that we’ve named Japan’s new sensation, Otsuka Lotec is the brainchild of watchmaker Jiro Katayama. Even though these watches are extremely hard to get outside of Japan (yes, that means pure JDM coolness), the brand has started to gain recognition and […]

MB&F; Marks 20 Years with Legacy Machine Longhorn Editions SJX Watches
MB&F; Jan 14, 2025

MB&F; Marks 20 Years with Legacy Machine Longhorn Editions

As part of its 20th anniversary celebrations, MB&F; has unveiled the Legacy Machine Perpetual Longhorn and Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback Longhorn. These new models retain the groundbreaking movements developed by Stephen McDonnell but add a fresh twist in the form of elongated lugs, or “horns,” that give the watches their name. Limited to just 20 pieces each, the Longhorn editions feature stainless steel cases and a more muted take on MB&F;’s signature style with black dials. The Longhorn is a revival of sorts of a 2009 prototype of the Legacy Machine 1. To ensure good fit across a range of wrists, the longer lugs include dual spring bar holes; one at the tip and another closer to the case. Initial thoughts As a fan of MB&F;, and especially the work of Stephen McDonnell, I was immediately interested in the Longhorn editions, despite the fact that they’re largely cosmetic variations of existing models. The watches are intrinsically interesting, given their groundbreaking movements, and new versions of good watches are always worth a look. Visually, the Longhorn editions are more monochromatic than most MB&F; designs. Featuring stainless steel cases, black lacquer sub-dials, and rhodium-plated base plates, the Longhorn editions are a departure for MB&F;, offering an alternative to the brand’s signature, extroverted style. Notably, the black-and-silver livery was used on the recent LM SE Eddy Jaquet, albeit without the “long horns”. But there’s no denying the f...

Introducing: The New Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Watches! Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Watches! Jan 14, 2025

Introducing: The New Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Watches!

It’s a tradition! A new Omega Speedmaster comes on a (Speedy) Tuesday, and today, we even get two. Meet the Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite models, one with a black meteorite dial and another with a gray meteorite dial. Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Omega had a wonderful 2024 with great new Speedmaster releases, and the new year […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Watches! to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Has Released a 222 in Stainless Steel for the Brand’s 270th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Has Released Jan 13, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Has Released a 222 in Stainless Steel for the Brand’s 270th Anniversary

Vacheron Constantin is the world’s oldest watch brand in continuous operation, and they celebrate a big anniversary this year: 270 years. That’s an incredibly long time for a company to exist, and simply by virtue of its age, Vacheron has survived virtually every kind of calamity that can befall the human beings who, at the end of the day, are responsible for keeping the thing going. Wars, disease, more wars, Instagram hype – Vacheron has seen it all. It’s certainly a milestone worth celebrating, and as brands tend to do when these big numbers crop up, they’re doing it with a watch (probably a bunch of watches, to be fair – it’s only January). In any case, to begin their big anniversary year, Vacheron Constantin has introduced a new version of their 222 in steel, a watch that has been anticipated and speculated about since its most immediate predecessor was introduced just shy of three years ago.  Just in case anyone needs a refresher, the 222 was Vacheron Constantin’s original entry in the integrated bracelet sports watch sweepstakes in 1977, the brand’s 222nd anniversary year (this is an anniversary watch to its core). It came after their counterparts in the so-called Holy Trilogy of Swiss watch brands released their own takes on this style (the Audermars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, both designed by Gerald Genta) and was not continuously produced, so it didn’t attain the household name status of those watches. The 222 was always...

TAG Heuer Becomes the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1 Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Becomes Jan 13, 2025

TAG Heuer Becomes the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1

Highlighting the various sponsorships that watch brands engage in is not something we normally cover as news here on Worn & Wound. That’s partly because these kinds of commercial ventures rarely have much to do with what we think of watch enthusiasm, given that they’re executed by enormous corporations who historically have little regard for the hobbyist and enthusiast segment of the market. It’s also because there are so many, it would become hard to draw a line in the sand to determine what is and is not newsworthy. Virtually every watch brand sponsors something, it’s one of the most time tested marketing tactics available to a watch brand. And the very nature of watchmaking means that there are natural relationships to be formed between brands and companies in a myriad of other disciplines. Few of those disciplines match motorsport when it comes to overlap in the proverbial Venn Diagram of the two interests, and F1 in particular has a higher than average profile. So when a storied watch brand announced a return to F1 sponsorship recently, we thought it was worth discussing.  TAG Heuer announced recently that they’ll be returning as the official F1 timekeeper when the new season gets underway in March. TAG Heuer has an association with motorsport that is nearly unmatched among watch brands, so you can expect the brand to be making a pretty big deal out of the new partnership in the 75th anniversary F1 season.  This is not the first time TAG Heuer has joined f...

Introducing – The New Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto 36mm and 42mm Watches with Midnight Blue and Emerald Green Dials Monochrome
Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto Jan 13, 2025

Introducing – The New Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto 36mm and 42mm Watches with Midnight Blue and Emerald Green Dials

The Hamilton Jazzmaster collection features a good range of models in various sizes, complemented by useful functions such as date indication, power reserve, and chronograph. The dials primarily come in classic shades like silver, black, and blue, with additional green, beige, and white options. The Open Heart models in the collection have always stood out, […]

The Watch You Knew Was Coming Finally Arrived - Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 In Steel Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Jan 13, 2025

The Watch You Knew Was Coming Finally Arrived - Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 In Steel

Get ready for a year of special Vacheron Constantin creations. To grab your attention, the brand’s 270th-anniversary celebrations kick off with a watch you knew was coming - the Historiques 222 in steel. The much-anticipated watch made it to Fratello HQ ahead of the embargo. It was a perfect way to experience firsthand if the […] Visit The Watch You Knew Was Coming Finally Arrived - Hands-On With The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 In Steel to read the full article.

The Start Of A New Tennis Season Reveals Rolex’s Firm Grip On The Sport Fratello
Rolex s Firm Grip Jan 12, 2025

The Start Of A New Tennis Season Reveals Rolex’s Firm Grip On The Sport

In 2023, right after Wimbledon, I wrote an article questioning whether there was life for Rolex in tennis after Roger Federer left the sport as an active player. During that year’s Wimbledon, the Swiss maestro received a unique welcome from the English audience. It showed people’s respect and gratitude for Federer as a tennis player […] Visit The Start Of A New Tennis Season Reveals Rolex’s Firm Grip On The Sport to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition Fratello
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Jan 12, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition

Beware, this is a low-brow edition of Sunday Morning Showdown! We usually stick to watches, but this week, the emotions may run a lot higher. This is, after all, a battle between former lovers. It is a showdown between former spouses, even. Daan and Thomas will perform some post-marriage counseling for a certain Miss Piggy […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Vs. Miss Piggy Edition to read the full article.