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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Auction: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch No. 001 for Charity SJX Watches
Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch Dec 2, 2024

Auction: Citizen 100th Anniversary Pocket Watch No. 001 for Charity

Soon to go on the block at Sotheby’s upcoming New York sale is the very first Citizen 100th Anniversary Special Limited Edition Pocket Watch, numbered “001/100” on the case back. The penultimate lot in the sale that will take place on December 6, the pocket watch is being sold to benefit 1% for the Planet, the environmental charity whose founders include the entrepreneur who established outdoor clothing brand Patagonia. Included with the pocket watch is a special edition copy of Citizen: The Essence of Time, a book that details the brand’s history over the past century. The book is numbered “001/100” to match the watch. The cal. 0270 Launched earlier this year to mark the centennial of Citizen’s first-ever watch, the anniversary pocket watch was inspired by the original 1924 timepiece. Though it has a vintage-inspired aesthetic, the pocket watch is entirely modern in construction and materials. The delicately textured dial is made via electrodeposition, while the case is polished titanium. More notably, the case houses the in-house cal. 0270, a newly developed manual-wind movement with a sophisticated construction that includes a free-sprung balance. After the automatic cal. 0200, this is the second mechanical movement unveiled by Citizen, continuing its progress in developing a stable of high-end in-house calibres. (We reviewed the pocket watch in detail last month.) Estimated to sell for around US$10,000-15,000, the pocket watch “001/100” will be sold a...

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Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Plus Dec 2, 2024

Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont

Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 “Pink” is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial. You’ve seen […] Visit Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont to read the full article.

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Up Close: Aigaki Debuts with the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon SJX Watches
Dec 2, 2024

Up Close: Aigaki Debuts with the Direct-Impulse Tourbillon

Founded by a Japanese transplant to Switzerland, Aigaki is making its debut with the impressive Direct-Impulse Tourbillon. Though relatively youthful, brand founder Takahiko Aigaki is a watchmaker of the old school who developed the watch and then makes almost all of it by hand. Produced almost entirely in Takahiko Aigaki’s own home-workshop with hand-operated tools, the Tourbillon is characterised by its hand-engraved silver dial and a finely-finished movement combining unique architecture with a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Aigaki on Instagram for several months, having become intrigued by the unusual in-line architecture of the movement, and its symmetrical direct-impulse escapement. Initially, only the movement components were shown, but even this sneak peak was enough to pique my interest. Now that the watch has been unveiled, I feel like it was worth the wait. The Tourbillon is a compact, 37 mm timepiece with a clean aesthetic and domed crystal that lends it something of a vintage feel. On its face, the appearance is simple, but the watch instantly conveys the sensation of a finely-crafted object, especially when you turn it over. But even on the front, the details of the dial give away the fact that it is hand-made. Interestingly, there is no ink or paint used on the dial. All of the dial markings and elements are hand-engraved using traditional tools; the brand name is engraved with a hand-operated pantograph. The Tourbillon is v...

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Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization Fratello
IWC Boutiques Portugieser Chronograph Customization Dec 1, 2024

Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization

In a move that should delight customers, IWC now offers a customization program for the Portugieser Chronograph. Buyers can visit a participating IWC boutique and configure a bespoke model, which can be delivered in just three weeks. Plus, new dial colors are available as part of the program. It’s nice to see a large brand […] Visit Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization to read the full article.

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Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models Fratello
Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models Blancpain has Dec 1, 2024

Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models

Blancpain has been hard at work filling out its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection. Earlier this year, we saw the introduction of two new ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet models. Several months later, we were treated to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune and Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, both in 18K […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models to read the full article.

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Fratello
Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 Dec 1, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

Welcome back to our weekly Sunday Morning Showdown series. Every Sunday morning, two writers go head to head in a battle of the ages. Mike and Jorg will go at it this week with a pair of value-driven dive watches. Both are fairly recent releases from popular brands on the more affordable side of the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Prospex SPB483 Vs. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 to read the full article.

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The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 1: Sea Fratello
Breitling Pop-Up Museum Nov 30, 2024

The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 1: Sea

To celebrate 140 years since its founding in 1884, Breitling has opened a pop-up museum in the heart of Zurich, Switzerland. It stands proudly inside a historically significant building on Zurich’s Rennweg, just 200 meters from Breitling’s flagship boutique. Remarkably, this newly opened museum is the only brand-specific museum in Switzerland’s largest city. The museum […] Visit The Breitling Pop-Up Museum In Zurich And Why You Should Visit - Chapter 1: Sea to read the full article.

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What Makes The Rolex Padellone Ref. 8171 So Special? Fratello
Rolex Padellone Ref 8171 So Nov 30, 2024

What Makes The Rolex Padellone Ref. 8171 So Special?

Last week, a radio station invited me for an interview about a special Rolex Padellone 8171 offered at PAN Amsterdam, a popular art and antiques fair. The hosts asked me what made the watch so special and why it was on offer at the fair. Rolex Padellone ref. 8171 PAN Amsterdam will run from November […] Visit What Makes The Rolex Padellone Ref. 8171 So Special? to read the full article.

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Micro-Brand Digest: New Watches from Japan, Australia, Singapore, and More! Worn & Wound
Nov 29, 2024

Micro-Brand Digest: New Watches from Japan, Australia, Singapore, and More!

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of new micro-brand news we’re following. This includes promising concepts, Kickstarter launches, restocks, and everything in between. Worn & Wound was founded over 10 years ago to support small independent companies and affordable micro-brands, and our passion for these brands remains strong. Here’s what has caught our attention this month. If you come across a project that qualifies for our roundup, please email us at info@wornandwound.com to be included. Houtman Watch Jason Liddell grew up in Western Australia and has always deeply appreciated the great outdoors. He is particularly fond of the iconic regions and landmarks in Western Australia, including the Murchison River and the Pilbara. Houtman Watches is named after the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, charted by the Dutch sailor Frederick de Houtman in 1619. The Houtman Abrolhos is the southernmost true coral reef system in the Indian Ocean and comprises a stunning chain of 122 islands along with their associated reefs. The first two series have been named after the rivers mentioned earlier, and their most recent collection is called the Murchison. This series showcases four dial and hand configurations, which include two field/dress watches, one field/sport watch, and one pilot watch. All these watches have a stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm, a thickness of 11.5mm, and a length of 48mm from lug tip to lug tip. The interior width measure...

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Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 29, 2024

Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful

The Seiko SSK GMT line has slowly taken the watch world by storm, and Seiko took the SKX-style format this year and updated it with a trio of new dial formats. Earlier this year, I wrote a story on what – at the time – was every single existing SKX-style Seiko SSK GMT on the market, but that story is officially out of date. Before I get any further into this, it makes sense to establish a few things about these watches. First, they were released in 2022, creating a new wave of GMT affordability in the watch world. Why do I keep calling them SKX-style watches? Well, because the case profile is nearly identical to that of the now-discontinued icon, the Seiko SKX. The Seiko SSK001 and 003 models (the blue- and black-dial versions) are watches that I often suggest to anyone looking for a true "everyday" attainable watch. I even chose it in a video I did with Teddy where we both were tasked with building a collection under $7,000 ( let me know if you think I won). But enough lede-burying. Let’s get to the newness. In total there were three new variations released: The SSK033 with a blue and black bezel, the SSK035 with a green dial and bezel format, and the SSK036, which brings a black/brown aesthetic to the mix with a leather strap (the other two come on Jubilee-style bracelets). So let’s start with the SSK033. As an owner of the Rolex GMT-Master II with the blue-and-black bezel, I immediately zeroed in on this one. But where this clearly differs from the Rolex in term...

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Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches Fratello
Rolex Watches Another Friday another Nov 29, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches

Another Friday, another list! After last week’s list of GPHG winners, we return to the universe of vintage Rolex. Why? As we were browsing for entries for previous lists, we stumbled upon some amazing Rolex watches that you rarely see. This list, therefore, praises some of the Genevan brand’s less highlighted watches from the past. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Surprising Vintage Rolex Watches to read the full article.

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Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin As Vacheron Constantin gears Nov 29, 2024

Business News: Laurent Perves Appointed CEO of Vacheron Constantin

As Vacheron Constantin gears up to mark its 270th anniversary in 2025, the brand has just announced Laurent Perves will assume the top job at the start of the new year. Having been the Chief Commercial Officer since 2022, Mr Perves succeeds Louis Ferla, who is now in charge of Cartier. Mr Perves is well positioned to lead the storied Geneva brand into its next chapter, having held management roles in the key departments of the manufacture, namely marketing, communications, and commercial. Although he began his career in fragrances, where he rose to senior roles in Proctor & Gamble, Mr Perves started in the watch industry a decade ago. He joined Audemars Piguet in 2014 as head of communications, before being tapped to become the chief marketing officer at Vacheron Constantin in 2016. Since 2022 he was the number two at Vacheron Constantin as chief commercial officer, where he oversaw the brand’s commercial strategy but also built relationships with key clients and collectors in general. Despite the high bar set by the Berkley pocket watch – the most complicated watch ever – Mr Perves and his team have put together an impressive lineup of products for the brand’s 270th anniversary, which will be debuted progressively over the next year.  

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Introducing – The New Norqain Adventure Sport 37mm DLC & Gold Monochrome
Norqain Adventure Sport 37mm DLC Nov 29, 2024

Introducing – The New Norqain Adventure Sport 37mm DLC & Gold

Still a young brand compared to many of its peers, Norqain continues to expand its collection with its usual blend of sportiness, robustness and Swiss inspiration. Part of the Adventure collection, which ranges from masculine 42mm models to bold chronographs, the newest family member is a compact version with an appealing contrast of colours and […]

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Business News: Voutilainen Expands Brodbeck Guillochage SJX Watches
Voutilainen Nov 29, 2024

Business News: Voutilainen Expands Brodbeck Guillochage

Having stepped in to acquire Brodbeck Guillochage in 2022, Voutilainen has announced the opening of a new, larger facility in Fleurier that is poised to become a new centre of excellence for guilloché. Retaining the name Brodbeck Guillochage in honour of its founder Georges Brodbeck, the new facility is located in what was once the local watchmaking school of Fleurier, the town adjacent to Voutilainen’s hilltop headquarters at Chapeau de Napoléon. The new home of Brodbeck Guillochage in Fleurier Initial thoughts This is welcome news for a number of reasons. First, it will help perpetuate the legacy of Mr. Brodbeck, ensuring that his life’s work will continue to have a positive impact watchmakers and lovers of fine objects for years to come. Second, the steady hand of Kari Voutilainen, whose accomplishments as an entrepreneur rival his skills as a watchmaker, should help the new enterprise navigate potential industry downturns in the future. Finally, the impressive scale of the operation should be a magnet for talent, improving the economic prospects for young artisans interested in guilloché. A new centre of excellence A self-taught guillocheur, Mr Brodbeck founded his eponymous firm in 2004, gradually building up a stock of more than 30 antique engine turning machines, each restored to working order by Mr Brodbeck himself. In 2023, Mr Brodbeck was awarded the Prix Gaïa, arguably the highest award in the Swiss watch industry, for his contributions to the preservati...

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Omega Introduces the Concise Seamaster Diver 300M “No-Date” SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Nov 29, 2024

Omega Introduces the Concise Seamaster Diver 300M “No-Date”

Teased at earlier this year during the Summer Olympics when it was photographed on Daniel Craig’s wrist, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M without a date has finally been officially unveiled. Making its debut in monochromatic colours, the no-frills Seamaster is essentially another take on the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition of 2019. The Seamaster “no-date” is available with either a black-aluminium dial laser engraved with the model’s customary wave-like pattern, or a vertically brushed steel dial with a silvery PVD coating. Less obvious but more notable for enthusiasts is the domed sapphire crystal that lends a vintage feel. Since Omega announced it will no longer be releasing limited edition watches, the new duo will be part of the permanent collection. Initial thoughts The date window has always been a hotly debated topic within watch enthusiast circles, which tend to prefer the purity of a date-less dial. No matter where a date window is placed, there will be critics. In my view, such criticism is sometimes valid. The Seamaster 300M certainly benefits from the facelift, which results in a more aesthetically pleasing dial. The clean dial also suits the functional nature of the model. Priced at US$6,500 on the mesh bracelet, the new Seamaster is priced right considering the feature, including the in-house cal. 8806, a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. Ironically, the new Seamaster is US$600 more expensive than the variant with a date. That said, it is arguably...

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Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Titoni Airmaster Pilot Fratello
Nov 28, 2024

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Titoni Airmaster Pilot

It is no secret that I greatly appreciate Titoni’s efforts to create great watches at affordable prices. The brand has surprised me multiple times with its creations. In particular, the Seascoper line is a big personal favorite. But Titoni has plenty more to offer with a varied collection of watches. Another important line is the […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Titoni Airmaster Pilot to read the full article.

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[VIDEO] Review: Citizen’s “The Citizen” Reference AQ4103-16E Worn & Wound
Citizen s “The Citizen” Reference Nov 28, 2024

[VIDEO] Review: Citizen’s “The Citizen” Reference AQ4103-16E

Here’s a thing I’ve come to realize about watches writing about them for five years. Most of them are exactly fine. They have some good qualities and some bad, but they tend to cancel each other out, resulting in something that’s perfectly acceptable and adequate but maybe not great. Truly exceptional watches are rare. Watches with no obvious faults, watches that make you rethink a brand, a technology, or your own taste. These are the watches I love to write about the most and I jump at the chance to do so.  I’m not saying the Citizen “The Citizen” reference AQ4103-16E is a perfect watch without any faults, but I’m not not saying it either. It’s certainly exceptional by just about any measure, and it’s literally quite rare. And if you’ve never been exposed to a watch from the upper tier of Citizen’s range, it could certainly cause you to rethink the brand, but the good stuff at the high end of Citizen’s catalog has been an open secret for long enough that if you claim not to know much about it, well, you should probably just read Worn & Wound more often.  Kidding aside, this iteration of The Citizen really did blow me away when I had a chance to sample it recently. It does so many things so well, it’s pretty tough to ignore. Citizen has worked hard over the last few years to expand their offerings in the The Citizen lineup, and I think they’ve done a pretty good job of communicating what makes this collection special to the larger watch public...

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In-Depth – Inside Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons’ Impressive, Newly-Opened Rolex CPO Collection Monochrome
Rolex CPO Collection When it Nov 28, 2024

In-Depth – Inside Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons’ Impressive, Newly-Opened Rolex CPO Collection

When it was officially announced back in late 2022, the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned Programme (also known as RCPO) made some noise. The fact that the world’s largest watch brand officialized its interest in second-hand, certified and authenticated watches proved that this segment of the market was never to be neglected anymore. It took a little […]

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#TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches Fratello
Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches I Nov 28, 2024

#TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches

I will be highly opinionated today, and I am ready to take a few punches if you disagree with me. No matter how simple a Cartier design is, it’s heavy. Heavy for self-esteem, that is. There are exceptions, but generally speaking, I don’t see Cartier as a door-opening brand for watch collecting, whether modern or […] Visit #TBT Reinventing My Tastes With Cartier Vermeil Trinity Watches to read the full article.

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Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million Nov 28, 2024

Unique F.P. Journe Resonance Raises US$2.98 Million for Charity

For its third outing supporting the Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation, F.P. Journe created a unique Chronomètre à Résonance that sold for S$4.00 million – equivalent to US$2.98 million – during the charity’s annual gala dinner in Singapore. As a friend of the Monegasque ruler, François-Paul Journe has long supported his namesake charity. Now once of the most valuable recent F.P. Journe watches ever sold, the Resonance follows the LineSport Rattrapante of 2018 and the Chronometre Optimum of 2022, which have cumulatively raised several million for the charity that supports environmental causes around the world. Echoing the livery of the Optimum of 2022, the unique Resonance has a platinum case with a burgundy dial and ruthenium sub-dials. Notably, two forms of Chinese characters: modern simplified Chinese characters on the right sub-dial, while the left register has markings in oracle bone script, the oldest form of written Chinese. The movement is engraved on the barrel bridge: “S.A.S. Albert II Singapore 2024” More than double the result of the Optimum in 2022, the big number for the Resonance is no surprise given the recent record-setting sale of the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon prototype. This arguably demonstrates that F.P. Journe has gone beyond a watchmaker or even watches, but a brand. This desirability of the F.P. Journe brand is reflected in not just the value, but how easily and quickly it was achieved at the auction during the dinner event. Thoma...

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Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up For Another Thanksgiving Weekend Surprise Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Nov 28, 2024

Louis Erard and Vianney Halter Team Up For Another Thanksgiving Weekend Surprise

Today, Americans sit down at their Thanksgiving table with their friends and family, and consider all that they’re thankful for. Good health, a warm home, great company, and a delicious meal will top many lists, as they should. But if you’ll allow a quick thought experiment (really, all of this is just one big thought experiment, if you think about it) and narrow the focus of thanks to the watch world, I’d have to say that the singular event of the last few years that I’m most thankful for is whatever transpired during the first meeting between the team at Louis Erard and watchmaker Vianny Halter. It led to a collaboration that launched a thousand other collaborations (slight exaggeration, but maybe not), and brought an affordable indie brand and a Capital I Independent watchmaking legend together in a genuinely interesting way. There’s a compelling case to be made that the first Louis Erard x Vianney Halter collaboration was the seed of many similar LEs to come, from Louis Erard and other brands, so it makes sense that just like that first collab, their second drops on Thanksgiving weekend, bringing one of the most interesting stories in contemporary watches full circle.  While the first collaboration with Halter felt like one of his watches in spirit, the new Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II takes steps to make the physical object feel more like a watch that could have come out of Halter’s workshop. Using Halter’s iconic Antiqua as inspiratio...

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