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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

The Elegantly Concise Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453 Oct 28, 2024

The Elegantly Concise Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar PAM01453

Panerai raised some eyebrows when it installed the newly developed perpetual calendar movement in the beefy Luminor. Now the brand brings the complication to its more elegant, but still oversized, wristwatch with the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453. Initial thoughts The Radiomir collection has always been Panerai’s most elegant offering, with some older models even being dress watches, albeit in Panerai style. The slimmer cushion-shaped case, wire lugs, and onion crown evoke the early wristwatches. Compared to the bulkier Luminor, the Radiomir is more adaptable in terms of design and complications, and consequently sometimes departs from the brand’s signature military look. A complication such as a perpetual calendar tends to fit better in more classical designs. For that reason, the perpetual calendar didn’t feel at home in the Luminor format. Bringing the perpetual calendar to the Radiomir seems like the sensible thing to do. The PAM01453 is handsome, especially with a case in Goldtech, Panerai’s proprietary rose gold alloy of platinum and copper that the brand claims to have superior durability.  Though more elegant, the PAM01453 is still a rather large watch in typical Panerai style and measures 45mm across. The slim lugs and the leather strap should increase wearability to some extent, but the piece remains imposing. The P.4100 The PAM01453 celebrates in part the first Panerai watch prototype that was developed in 1935, a timepiece that was ...

Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold Fratello
Nomos Tangente Oct 26, 2024

Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold

We know Nomos best for its minimalistic, Bauhaus-inspired stainless steel watches. However, the brand has quite a few references with gold accents and even offers watches with full-gold cases. Now we can add two more references to this list because the brand from Glashütte has released the Tangente and Orion Neomatik Doré. Both watches feature […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Tangente And Orion Neomatik Doré - Bauhaus With A Touch Of Gold to read the full article.

In-Depth: The Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” And Caliber 2003 Fratello
Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” Oct 26, 2024

In-Depth: The Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” And Caliber 2003

If 100 people were asked about the first words that come to mind when “Audemars Piguet” is spoken, I wager that almost all would respond with “Royal Oak.” That signals how popular Gérald Genta’s groundbreaking 1972 design has become. However, before this and even after the Royal Oak was released, Audemars offered a very different […] Visit In-Depth: The Audemars Piguet 5043BC “Ultra-Thin” And Caliber 2003 to read the full article.

Recapping the Tudor x Worn & Wound Windup Watch Fair NYC Kick-off Event Worn & Wound
Tudor x Worn & Wound Oct 25, 2024

Recapping the Tudor x Worn & Wound Windup Watch Fair NYC Kick-off Event

Just dip into the Worn & Wound YouTube channel search for Tudor. Whether it’s ongoing interest in our hands-on videos with their watches or the popularity of our Thunderdome series, it’s clear that Tudor is an extremely important brand to our enthusiast audience. So when they offered their Tudor Boutique within the Tourneau space in the Meatpacking District of Manhattan as a venue for the kick off event of the Windup Watch Fair NYC weekend, we were both honored and excited. The Thursday before any Windup weekend is filled with anticipation that you can genuinely feel. Fairgoers seem to be gearing up for either battle, a concert by their favorite band, or a little of both. The Tudor Boutique was a perfect place to both harness that energy and build on it for the rest of the long weekend. Their boutique is designed to be a part showroom and part gathering space for the Tudor-curious. Last Thursday night, it was filled to capacity with fans of both the Worn & Wound and Tudor brands. This was most evident in the sheer amount of interesting and unique Tudor watches on the wrists of multiple attendees! Attendees were greeted with a signature cocktail called the “METAS Manhattan,” referring of course to the Master Chronometer certification. A comprehensive standard that covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including: precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Watches like Tudor’s Black Bay Ceramic, the Black Bay, and the...

Just A Minute With The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Worn & Wound
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Oct 25, 2024

Just A Minute With The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Just a Minute with the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date   Founded in Hölstein, Switzerland in 1904, Oris has spent over a century building unique watches that reflect their independent spirit. Their Big Crown Pointer Date series is one of their most iconic, dating back to a pilot watch design from the 1930s. The Big Crown Pointer Date remains one of the most original designs on the market, effortlessly bridging the gap between casual and refined wear. With its elegant cathedral hands, a coin edge bezel, and a fourth hand indicating the date, the Big Crown Pointer Date blends the past into the present.    As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Just a Minute with the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date   Founded in Hölstein, Switzerland in 1904, Oris has spent over a century building unique watches that reflect their independent spirit. Their Big Crown Pointer Date series is one of their most iconic, dating back to a pilot watch design from the 1930s. The Big Crown Pointer Date remains one of the most original designs on the market, effortlessly bridging the gap between casual and refined wear. With its elegant cathedral hands, a coin edge bezel, and a fourth hand indicating the date, the Big Crown Pointer Date blends the past into the present.    As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions y...

Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Worn & Wound
Lorier Oct 25, 2024

Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph

No Windup Watch Fair would be complete without Lorier. Since the brand’s introduction six years ago, they have become a fixture of the show and a consistent hit among attendees. Seriously, anyone who dropped by Center 415 this past weekend will know just how hard it was to even get to the Lorier booth. The big draw for the brand this week was their latest release; a new chronograph they’re calling the Olympia. In the lead-up to the show, I got to spend some time with the new watch, and with Windup behind us and the Olympia now available to everyone, it seemed like the right time to share my thoughts. Before we get into the specifics of the watch itself, it’s worth taking a moment to consider where this new model will sit in the Lorier catalog, and what it’s doing there. The short answer is that the Lorier Olympia is taking the place of the immensely popular Lorier Gemini. That watch, which was first unveiled at Windup Watch Fair in New York City a full five years ago, was a mid-century inspired bi-compax chronograph powered by the Seagull ST19 hand-wound movement. $899 Hands-On: the Lorier Olympia Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement SII NE88 Dial White Lume Yes Lens Acrylic Strap Stainless steel bracelet Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 39 x 46mm Thickness 13.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty Yes Price $899 I’ve always felt that the Lorier Gemini (and the Lorier Gemini SII) represented a serious step forward for Lorier. The introduction of t...

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models Fratello
Patek Philippe Nautilus list it’s time Oct 25, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models

Another Friday, another list! After last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, it’s time to move on to Rolex. This week, we jump into the world of the vintage models that came before the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same cases and dials with one simple difference: the famous names we know today […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models to read the full article.

Interview – Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris, on the Recent Developments of the Brand Monochrome
Oris Oct 25, 2024

Interview – Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris, on the Recent Developments of the Brand

Headquartered in Hölstein, at the northern edge of the Swiss Jura, Oris sits on the outermost boundary of Switzerland’s traditional watchmaking region. This area had a long history of specialising in affordable pin-lever watches. And although the brand had to reinvent itself, this heritage has naturally shaped Oris’s philosophy of “Go your own way”. With […]

Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024 Fratello
Christopher Ward Desk Diver Oct 25, 2024

Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024

Romaric André, aka seconde/seconde/, is a busy man these days. I have barely recovered from the Christopher Ward Desk Diver, and now he is back with a collab with Spinnaker. It goes to show that the often snobby watch world is looking for some lighthearted fun. Well, lighthearted fun is what we get today! This […] Visit Introducing: The Spinnaker Fleuss 40 Automatic Seconde/Seconde/ For Halloween 2024 to read the full article.

Carl F. Bucherer’s Retro Worldtimer with Peripheral-Wind Movement SJX Watches
Carl F. Bucherer Oct 25, 2024

Carl F. Bucherer’s Retro Worldtimer with Peripheral-Wind Movement

In a departure from its usual modern designs, Carl F. Bucherer’s latest is the Heritage Worldtimer. Modelled on a typical 1950s world time wristwatch, the Heritage Worldtimer sports two crowns - on at three to set the time, another at nine to adjust the cities disc. The A2020 movement inside, however, is a modern creation. The automatic calibre features a peripheral rotor, an invention that dates to the 1950s but was only perfected in the 21st century. However, the calibre comes with a caveat: it’s not a true world time complication, and instead relies on just a rotating cities disc. Initial thoughts Tried-and-tested vintage-inspired reissues are often easy wins so they are common. While the Heritage Worldtimer might seem like one of those on its face, it stands out on several counts, including the simple fact that vintage-inspired world-time watches are uncommon. The design is also vintage inspired, rather than a remake of a specific watch, so it has a generic 1950s feel rather than looking like a scaled-up version of a vintage watch. And the novel, modern movement is a useful complement to the historical design. Though the watch is looks like a world time, it is not actually a world time complication. In other words, the hour hand does not move in tandem with the cities disc as on an actual world time. Rather it is a time-only watch with a rotating cities disc that does the job of indicating time zones, but it is not sophisticated in terms of mechanics. Starting a...

Sailing with the Yema Yachtingraf Croisiere Meca-Quartz Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 24, 2024

Sailing with the Yema Yachtingraf Croisiere Meca-Quartz

As we begin jockeying for position behind the starting line aboard Escapade, an Ericson 29 sailing yacht, we hear the first warning siren blast and I immediately click in the top pusher. The skeletonized yellow arrow hand begins to tick away the seconds as ‘Cappy’ yells, “Ready to tack?!” Giving the green jib sheet two wraps on the winch with my left hand and taking the red jib sheet in my right, I yell back “Ready!” The boat starts to come over into the wind pushing the jib (the forwardmost sail) into the boat, across its bow, and onto the other side. During this, I allow the red line to slowly let out while beginning to pull in the green slowly, then, once the jib passes the midway point, I release the red all together and begin pulling in the green as fast as I can until the jib is fully under tension and our speed begins to climb. A glance down at the 9 o’clock big-eye register shows that we have three minutes to start, information I relay quickly as we begin to weave our way through the pack. Two minutes now, the call for a gybe, and another turn back towards the line. As our speed begins to build, the bow lunges closer to the start line fighting for a perfect start against the crowded pack of seasoned sailors while making sure not to cross too early. The siren blasts again, the big-eye circular hand hits zero, and we cross over the line in second place under wind at roughly four knots.  While it might seem to be an entirely useless complication for the...

Introducing – The Sophisticated Platinum & Black Enamel Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique 7787 Monochrome
Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique Oct 24, 2024

Introducing – The Sophisticated Platinum & Black Enamel Breguet Classique 5177 & Classique 7787

Breguet‘s Classique collection distils the essence of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s watchmaking spirit. With its pure, refined lines, the Classique is home to a wide variety of models sharing many of Breguet’s ‘unmistakable signs’. Breguet expands the collection with a pair of extremely elegant platinum models with inky black Grand Feu enamel dials. The candidates for this […]

Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials Fratello
Breguet Classique 5177 Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials

The Breguet Classique line - contrary to what its name suggests - always reminds me of Baroque music. I can hear Scarlatti when I see the coin-edge cases, welded lugs, swirly Breguet numerals, and guilloché or enameled dials. They exude the same regal, exalted, masterful feeling as Mikhail Pletnev interpreting Scarlatti on piano. Today’s release […] Visit Introducing: Breguet Classique 5177 And 7787 - Now In Platinum With Black Grand Feu Enamel Dials to read the full article.

Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th Fratello
Breitling Event Oct 24, 2024

Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th

Breitling is celebrating its 140th anniversary in 2024, so we thought it would only be right to host a special Breitling × Fratello event in The Hague, Netherlands. Vintage Breitling expert Fred Mandelbaum will be there as a special guest to discuss the brand’s incredible heritage. Breitling × Fratello event Breitling has always been one […] Visit Sign Up For The Breitling Event In The Hague On November 29th to read the full article.

Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Quill & Pad
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Oct 24, 2024

Why I Bought It: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M

After a year of ownership, Saad Chaudhry has taken his Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M to the end of the world, a dinner at a yacht club, and the open road as well as the open sea. The polished bezel has scars from doing battle against train commuters and car doors. The clasp has scraped against his keyboard more times than he cares to admit. However the watch still looks remarkably good. Here he explains why he bought it (and kept it) a year after the purchase and whether he would do it all over again.

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches Fratello
Casio n Oct 24, 2024

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches

It’s hard to believe that 30 years have passed since the first Lange 1 was introduced. Yet, here we are, and to celebrate this special occasion, A. Lange & Söhne has crafted four new limited-edition versions of the brand’s most famous watch. As we’ll see, Lange is bringing a pair of dial and case materials […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 30th Anniversary Watches to read the full article.

Introducing the Alterum Worldtimer, a Minimalist Take on a Notoriously Busy Complication Worn & Wound
Oct 23, 2024

Introducing the Alterum Worldtimer, a Minimalist Take on a Notoriously Busy Complication

You might be familiar with the work of Justin Walters through his work with Marin Instruments, which burst onto the microbrand watch scene back in 2021 with a unique, contemporary spin on the classic skin diver. Justin has just launched a new brand, the Alterum Watch Company, which he’s been teasing to those of us in the industry for nearly as long. It’s great to see the watch finally made public, and to see Justin fully emerge as one of the most interesting watch design minds working today. Between this initial release for Alterum and the ongoing work with Marin, we’re seeing a clear, modern aesthetic evolve right before our eyes. Best of all, these watches are accessible to just about anyone, proving once again that you don’t need to spend a small fortune for thoughtful and interesting design.  The working principle behind the Alterum Worldtimer is one of simplicity, or “cutting away the chaos,” as Justin puts it. We’ve heard and seen this before, of course. Many brands attempt to reach a minimal design, but it’s hard to think of one that starts with a worldtimer, a genre of watch that’s busy almost by definition. But it’s a good test, when you think about it. If the goal of Alterum as a brand is simplicity and clarity, finding success with a worldtimer would seem to bode quite well for future projects. In many ways the Alterum Worldtimer feels familiar, at least in its functionality, but when you really start digging into the details you come to und...

The Best Chronograph Watches for Beginners Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Omega will have you know Oct 23, 2024

The Best Chronograph Watches for Beginners Under $1,000

When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate from that of a wristwatch. Enter the chronograph. Adding a stopwatch compilation - that is, a feature beyond telling the time - to a traditional watch was revolutionary when it was invented in the nineteenth century.    Today, they are one of the most popular types of watches amongst enthusiasts for their storied heritage and visual appeal. (As Omega will have you know, they’ve even been to the moon.) But for many enthusiasts, they can feel out of reach - mechanically complex, they require significantly greater purchase and service costs. Luckily, there’s an alternative: quartz. Quartz chronograph movements circumvent those two major shortfalls, allowing for greater reliability and reduced cost. With that, here are some of our favorite affordable chronographs for beginners.    Should you see anything you like, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. When time really counts - whether you’re speeding around a race track, plotting a navigational course, or timing the beats of a patient’s heart - you need a stopwatch. At one point, the function of a stopwatch was completely separate f...

Introducing: The Alterum Worldtimer With A Bold, Flat, And Functional Design Approach Fratello
Oct 23, 2024

Introducing: The Alterum Worldtimer With A Bold, Flat, And Functional Design Approach

Starting a watch brand from scratch is quite a risky venture. First, you invest a lot of time in developing a design. Then, you need to find other parties who want to help you realize what you had in mind. Finally, you’re dependent on whether people actually want to buy what you created. Because of […] Visit Introducing: The Alterum Worldtimer With A Bold, Flat, And Functional Design Approach to read the full article.

Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions Fratello
Oct 23, 2024

Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions

Whenever the Norwegian brand Straum unveils something new, we are all ears at Fratello. Most of you will know we love the brand and collaborated on the Fratello × Straum Jan Mayen Limited Edition. In a new adventure, brand founders Lasse Roxrud Farstad and Øystein Helle Husby created three special new dials for the much-praised […] Visit Straum Introduces Three Captivating Jan Mayen Basalt Limited Editions to read the full article.

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2523 world time Oct 23, 2024

Editorial: Memorable Moments at IAMWATCH

The first large scale watch fair I attended as Tempus in Singapore in 2004. A teenager then, I was fairly new to watches and found everything endlessly interesting. History never repeats but it rhymes, as the saying goes. Iamwatch just concluded in Singapore. In many ways it was similar to Tempus: also staged by local retailer The Hour Glass, a watch fair of sizeable scale, but unlike the 2004 event, Iamwatch was largely focused on independent watchmakers. Most crucially, it was also casual – the prescribed attire was Hawaiian shirt – which allowed for more personal interactions with industry personalities. As one of the largest retailers in the world, The Hour Glass has the pull to round up watch enthusiasts, and a great number turned up for Iamwatch, ranging from mega-collectors to royalty. Naturally, the watches spotted were diverse and often incredible. Many multi-million-dollar watches were circulating within the event, including famous examples that sold for record prices at auction, including the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial and “Gobbi” signature. And even the Patek Philippe Cubitus was spotted on several wrists, the day after its launch in Munich. But 20 years on after Tempus, the enjoyment, significance, and enduring memories of an event like Iamwatch – for me personally – is no longer the watches, but the people. It was the moments, often during downtime or after the doors closed, when I got to converse with watchmakers ...

Hands-On With The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Oct 23, 2024

Hands-On With The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT was one of the most commercially interesting releases of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Unlike most of the exotic Haute Horlogerie releases at the fair, this was a watch we might actually go out and buy. At the same time, it was such a long-awaited and aesthetically predictable watch […] Visit Hands-On With The Handsome Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT to read the full article.

Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz” Time+Tide
TAG Heuer believes “consumer interest Oct 23, 2024

Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz”

If interesting design now trumps mechanical innovation in watchmaking, quartz technology like TAG Heuer's Solargraph has an important edge, Biebuyck explains.The post Nicholas Biebuyck, Heritage Director of TAG Heuer, believes “consumer interest is improving in quartz” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.