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Fratello
The Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal is as rare as a hen’s teeth, with only three examples known before this one. Watch purists may not accept this one because I managed to put it together from old parts. Still, everything is genuine and correct for the period. First, I encourage you to read Mike’s eight-year-old story […] Visit #TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Wren shows you how to make a winter-themed diver at a respectable price point.The post The Wren Diver One Snow is sub-$1k, with a sandwich dial, Sellita movement, and both a strap and bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...
Time+Tide
Farer shows it has its ear to the ground, makng a host of improvements for the second generation of its Field Collection.The post Farer debuts second generation Field Collection with blue, green, and cream dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Bow down. The Freak deserves your respect. In fact, the Freak is the mack daddy of everything we call Nouvelle Horlogerie. In 2001, a bizarre and unexpected watch appeared from the Ulysse Nardin atelier in Le Locle, and it shook the world of watchmaking on its very foundations. This world was not yet ready for […] Visit Take It Easy, Everyone - It’s Only The New Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...
Fratello
Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Watches are many different things - functional objects, fashion accessories, charming anachronistic timekeeping companions… The list goes on. But one thing they aren’t is funny. In the world of watches, the only thing more serious than the timepieces themselves is their prices. But does that mean there’s no […] Visit Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been paying any attention to H. Moser & Cie. over the last few years, one thing should be abundantly clear - the Swiss watchmaker likes to keep things simple. While they may occasionally indulge themselves with an overwhelming quantity of dial text, or acquiesce to the need for a chronograph scale, Moser has increasingly adopted a minimalist approach in their watch design, with wide open expanses of dial and invisible logos taking center stage alongside hammered enamel finishes, minute repeater strikers, and elegantly finished hands. Today, Moser is throwing all that out, and, in partnership with Massena LAB, the brand is looking back to its history for what is, in many ways, its most traditional release in years. The Endeavour Chronograph Compax would, from anyone else, barely qualify as newsworthy. After all, what brand hasn’t dipped back into the well to create a historically-minded steel sports watch in recent years? Moser hasn’t, and that’s what makes this collaboration so interesting. Even the Heritage model, the closest the brand has come to the format, isn’t so much a recreation as a reimagination, a consideration not of how to make an old watch feel new, but a thought exercise in what H. Moser & Cie. might have made were the modern brand to find themselves in a different era. This new watch is not that. Though not a direct reproduction of any particular model, the new Endeavour Chronograph Compax is a genuine reflection on Moser’s history...
Hodinkee
H. Moser and Massena release a tribute to vintage Moser chronographs.
Time+Tide
Andrew gets on camera to run through his in-hand first impressions of the new Omega America's Cup Editions.The post Andrew shares his in-hand first impressions of the 3 new Omega America’s Cup watches (now with video!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The brand applies its distinctive design language to its first complication.
Quill & Pad
The debut edition of the Reluxury & Barnes Pre-Loved Luxury Show in Paris is the first event of its kind dedicated to pre-loved and circular luxury and prestige products.
Monochrome
Inspiration at MB&F; comes from all sorts of places, including hypothetical musings like Max Büsser’s question: “What would have happened if I was born in 1867, one hundred years before my actual birth? What watch would I have conceived with the help of my friends?” The answer, as we know, was the motor behind the […]
SJX Watches
MB&F; is well known for its ability to consistently produce timepieces that are as much sculpture as technical marvels. In its latest collaboration, MB&F; leans heavily on the artisanal side of watchmaking, with a dose of literary influence. Executed by the namesake master engraver, the MB&F; Legacy Machine Split Escapement “Eddy Jaquet” is a limited series of eight unique pieces, each depicting a scene from famous novels, ranging from The Three Musketeers to Moby Dick. Initial thoughts The LM SE “Eddy Jaquet” is arguably a true, multifaceted work of art that just happens to be wearable. Mr Jaquet’s work is amongst the best, and the LM SE happens to be a perfect canvas for it thanks to the particular set up of the dial that leaves practically the entire dial disc free for engraving. Making such an ornate watch usually requires compromise in terms of time telling, with watchmakers often favouring an expansive decorated dial over prominent hands. The LM SE somehow manages to keep all of its sub-dials, along with the LM’s trademark exposed balance. These elements do not take away from the centrepiece, which is the engraved dial plate. The elaborate execution of the LM SE comes at a hefty price, CHF158,000, which is almost double the cost of a standard LM SE. A quiet master engraver While not a widely recognised name, Eddy Jaquet was actually one of the original “friends” of MB&F; since the brand’s early days. Back in 2011, he hand-engraved the names of Kari Vout...
Fratello
The year 2024 marks a century since the introduction of the world’s first Citizen watch. To celebrate this significant milestone, Citizen has taken a curated selection of 100 watches, split into 12 design categories, from its over-6,000-watch archive on tour. Its first stop was in Tokyo before moving on to New York, and now the […] Visit Celebrating The 100th Anniversary Of The First Citizen Watch to read the full article.
Monochrome
Just a couple of weeks ago, we brought a very interesting Dutch watchmaker to your attention: Fred Dingemans. Through his eponymous brand, dingemans mechanische horloges (Dingemans Mechanical Watches), Fred offers a true slice of artisanal watchmaking, with a lot of work done by one man, by hand. While his three-hander in bronze was already quite […]
Deployant
Yes! After some 7 years in existence, we have decided to revamp our YouTube Channel, and bring you more coverage of all the things we love and adore. Here is The Deployant Show Episode 1.
Time+Tide
Discover some of the best watches Britain has to offer at the British Watchmakers' Weekender on November 23rd and 24th.The post The Time+Tide London Discovery Studio hosts the British Watchmakers’ Weekender appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
As one of the most important advocates of high-end German watchmaking – which feels relevant considering the importance of the brand’s name, being the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking – Moritz Grossmann has long demonstrated its ability to create technically advanced watches. And in recent years, we’ve also witnessed the creation […]
Fratello
Raymond Weil struck gold with the Millesime, a vintage-inspired watch that won a GPHG award. Belgian comics artist Philippe Francq (1961) also received praise and awards with his Largo Winch series of comic books. The titular character, a Yugoslavian adventurer whose birth name was Largo Winczlav, first appeared in 1990. Since then, 24 graphic novels […] Visit Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch to read the full article.
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, your hosts discuss the vintage watches currently tickling their collective fancies. Before that, though, there’s plenty of banter about sneakers and watches. For your convenience, watch content starts after 20 minutes. Vintage watches are some of our favorites. We’re always looking and thinking about […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Vintage Watches On Our List to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having made its debut with the Big Pilot AMG G 63 a year ago, ceramic matrix composite (CMC) is an innovative material currently unique to IWC in watchmaking. Little was disclosed about the material at launch, but IWC has just released additional detail on CMC. Notably, the material was developed in collaboration with the Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt (DLR), or German Aerospace Center, a national research institute specialising in aerospace, travel, energy, and even quantum computing. While novel materials are common in watchmaking, brands rarely reveal the origin of the materials, making this collaboration notable. Moreover, the DLR is a highly regarded, independent technical institute, which arguably gives CMC more credibility (and cachet) than most composites employed in watchmaking. Utilising a space-qualified like CMC in a watch tied to a high-performance SUV, however, seems to be a missed opportunity, though it’s a certainty IWC has plans for the the material. Blocks of CMC Staying true to size Fibre ceramic composites are a new class of materials, which combine the surface hardness of conventional ceramics with high tolerance to mechanical and thermal shocks. DLR’s previous work with ceramic composites revolved around making large components for aerospace applications, namely rockets or satellites. The institute was looking to adapt its short-fibre pressing technology for making smaller, near-net-shape parts – not unlike a watch case. Near-net-sha...
SJX Watches
Described by Habring² as “a relative of Felix“, the Oskar shares the brand’s signature A11 movement but gains a calendar module, with the seconds at six or central. Launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Habring², the Oskar makes its debut in three different variants, a pair with date-and-moon and the final model with just a moon phase. All three feature the same classical aesthetic with Breguet numerals and a compact, 38.5 mm case. Initial thoughts The Oskar is an excellent example of what the Austrian independent has to offer – appealing, clean aesthetics paired with the excellent, proprietary A11 movement, and a price tag of well under US$8,000. And the Oskar also reflect Habring²’s technical competence that the brand managed to squeeze the complication module into a 9 mm high case, with the movement alone being just 5.5 mm high. Admittedly, the vintage-inspired styling might be a little generic, although it is easily appealing. The design is well-executed with a properly proportioned dial and thoughtful details. As is typical for Habring², the Oskar is an honest product and an excellent value proposition, with the moon phase model priced at €6,050 and the moon phase with pointer date about 10% more. Mid century style The case is a simple, fuss-free affair that is similar to that found on other Habring² models, including the Felix. Entirely polished, the stainless steel case is 38.5 mm in diameter and 9 mm in thickness for both versions. All three m...
Monochrome
Following our article about the new Josef Regulator With Dead-Beat Seconds, it’s time now to introduce the second watch released by Habring² in the frame of the brand’s 20th-anniversary celebrations. Founded in 2004 by couple Maria and Richard Habring, Habring² is one of the very few watchmakers to operate in Austria and, over the years, […]
Deployant
Bvlgari introduces a sequel to the Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch in conjunction with the 140th anniversary of the brand.
Monochrome
While single-hand watches are the mainstay of German brand MeisterSinger, it would be a mistake to associate this display with simple watches. Since its foundation in 2001, MeisterSinger has sported many complications and, in a surprising turn of events, the Bell Hora. Known as a sonnerie au passage, this complication chimes on the hour, every […]
Fratello
Have you ever heard of Grendizer and Spazer? Grendizer, also known as Goldorak, is a giant monster robot that connects and synchronizes with Spazer, a flying saucer that enables the robot to fly. FYI, the robot and flying saucer are characters in the 1970s Japanese manga and anime series UFO Robot Grendizer. How do I […] Visit Watches And Manga On Monday Morning - The New Tissot PRX UFO Robot Grendizer to read the full article.
SJX Watches
In late 2023, a then-unknown Moonwatch with a white dial was seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig. The mysterious watch turned out to be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” that was officially unveiled in March 2024. Notably, it was released a regular production, instead of limited edition. An iconic design, the Omega Speedmaster Professional is best known as the Moonwatch with the classic black dial. The model’s relative ubiquity – the Speedmaster has been in production for nearly seven decades – makes dial variants compelling (but also numerous, often as limited editions) as a refreshing alternative to the quintessential black dial. Initial Impressions The subject of significant attention on social media when it first emerged on Mr Craig’s wrist, the new Moonwatch is a surprising release that goes beyond a cosmetic tweak of dial colour. It sports tangible differences to the dial furnishing that provide a sense of refinement over the regular black dial, namely the lacquered finishing and applied indices. And even though the dial is recognisably different, and arguably improved in terms of details, it retains the signature elements of the classic Moonwatch, including the stepped construction. Beyond that, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Moonwatch with black dial, which isn’t a bad thing because the “standard” model is now in its latest generation. The classic Moonwatch was revamped in 2021 with subtle yet pe...
Fratello
When you think of Fortis watches, the first that comes to mind is probably the famous Cosmonaut’s Chronograph. I would agree with that. But if we create a wider context, I would say that the Fortis catalog can be defined by its wide selection of sturdy and modern-looking tool watches. From the Marinemaster to the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Series Of Titanium Fortis Vagabond V-40 GMTs to read the full article.
Fratello
The allure of searching vintage and antique shops is strong for me. There is something about the appreciation for things from the past that resonates. Recently, on a trip to one such shop, I discovered a vintage Oris watch in an old suitcase. I saw it glistening inside the morass of trinkets and discarded objects […] Visit Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase to read the full article.
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