Results for Lug-to-Lug

Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands

Hi there, and welcome to Fratello Talks. Would you rather buy a watch from a microbrand or an entry-level legacy brand? That’s the question Nacho, Thomas, and Lex ask themselves today. As we’ve begun to see microbrands develop and offer better quality and undeniable value while entry-level big-name brands stand relatively still, this has certainly become […] Visit Fratello Talks: Microbrands Vs. Entry-Level Legacy Brands to read the full article.

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...

House Of Craft: Actor Keegan Allen With Ben Clymer On Creating Hodinkee, Building A Following, And Re-Thinking Watches

The Talking Watches alum interviews Ben to kick of UBS House of Craft in NYC.

The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena Lab presents an alternate history of Cricket diving

The hulking, vintage-style Vulcain Nautical diver and its alarm function have been given a Massena Lab-flavoured makeover.The post The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena Lab presents an alternate history of Cricket diving appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Road to Elegance with A. Lange & Söhne

Nomos Tangente 2Date Review

Germany’s Nomos Glashütte has built its avid following on an adherence to minimalist, Bauhaus-style simplicity in its watch designs, and it has the Red Dot awards to prove it. In all of its similar but subtly distinct product families — particularly the Tangente, the brand’s acknowledged flagship — Nomos has approached complications with great care, mostly focusing on the understated and utilitarian. Sometimes, however, even the most restrained watchmaker wants to have some fun, to make a watch with an added function that isn’t really necessary or even practical but adds an indisputable cool factor. Such is the case with the Tangente 2Date, unveiled earlier this year, which, as its cheeky name implies, is the first Nomos watch that displays the date in two different ways. And even though that sounds like an idea from the Department of Redundancy Department, don’t knock it until you’re tried it — as I had the opportunity to do recently, with Nomos sending me a review model of the Tangente 2Date with a sunray-brushed blue dial. Case: Like all Nomos watches, particularly those in the flagship Tangente collection, the 2Date is recognizably Bauhaus in its aesthetic. The 37.5mm case is practically bezel-free, with just the narrowest hint of one framing the wide dial opening. At just 6.75mm high (6.65 on the version without a sapphire caseback), the case weighs lightly on the wrist and slips easily under a shirt cuff. The lugs are thin and angular, from the front...

New Video: Czapek Manufacture - the suppliers

Czapek CEO takes us on a tour of two suppliers: enamel dials at Donzé Cadrans and titanium case/bracelets at Ab Products & Ab Concepts.

Universal Genève Is Back: Three Unique SAS Polerouters | Part I

Time+Tide brings you the British Watchmakers’ Weekender

Take an inside look at the fun and madness of our British Watchmakers' Weekender held earlier this year. The post Time+Tide brings you the British Watchmakers’ Weekender appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watchcharts November 2023 Secondary Watch Market Update

With the Overall Market Index now at a two-and-a-half year low, the broad-based nature of the declines across the market continues: Rolex prices are now also at a 30-month low, while Patek Philippe has hit a 26-month low, and Audemars Piguet is at a 27-month low.

Introducing: The Robot Minor Arctic LE

As many of you know, Robot is a brand offering high-quality Czech-made mechanical watches. The Minor, inspired by the Aero Minor racing car, is one of Robot’s most renowned models. Today, in a limited series of only 12 pieces, Robot introduces the Minor Arctic LE. This edition is a tribute to explorer František Běhounek, the […] Visit Introducing: The Robot Minor Arctic LE to read the full article.

The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition

Seven months have passed since Oak & Oscar released its Atwood hand-wound chronograph. However, it seems that founder Chase Fancher and the team were already plotting the next model, the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition. To be fair, this is a limited offering designed with a search and rescue team in mind. However, it deserves attention […] Visit The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition to read the full article.

Oak & Oscar Introduces the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition

On a new release calendar that’s full of limited edition collaborations that don’t always make a ton of logical sense, it’s refreshing to see one come across our desks that feels like a genuine meeting of the minds. Oak & Oscar is a longtime fixture in the micro/independent brand space, and at this point it’s fair to say that they’ve carved out a pretty recognizable niche for themselves. When you think of Oak & Oscar, you probably immediately think of the brand’s midwest roots, a love of the outdoors, and, of course, bourbon. Their latest release, a 50 piece limited collaboration with the St. Louis County Rescue Squad, combines at least two of these ideas, and the result is a handsome, sporty GMT that first right in Oak & Oscar’s wheelhouse.  For context, the St. Louis County Rescue Squad is made up of volunteers who provide lifesaving services to outdoor enthusiasts visiting northern Minnesota’s Boundary Waters Canoe Area (BWCA). As Oak & Oscar explains, the BWCA is an “outdoor-lover’s dream,” featuring hiking trails, camping, canoeing, and more. Oak & Oscar became a member of the Boundary Waters Business Coalition in 2021, a sign of their commitment to the preservation of the BWCA. To that end, the new Humboldt GMT SAR Edition serves as a reminder of that commitment, as well as a means to help fund the efforts of the St. Louis County Rescue Squad (a portion of the proceeds from the sale of these watches will be donated to the Squad).  This new lim...

A New Nomos Club Sport in a Smaller 34mm Case

Over the years, my feelings about Nomos have become more and more complex. Like many enthusiasts, the brand was an early discovery on the forums, and felt like an insider’s secret of sorts. Here was a small firm based in the historic German watchmaking community of Glashitte making interesting, immediately identifiable watches with in-house components at an approachable price point – Nomos felt like the primary counter example to the purists who insisted you had to spend well into the five figures for real watchmaking. In recent years, the brand has grown considerably, radically expanding their catalog to include a variety of sportier references in larger sizes, as well as widely proliferating their excellent ultra thin automatic in-house movement throughout their collection.  Watches made by Nomos are objectively good. They are well designed, attractive, colorful (or not) and made to exacting standards that ensure they can be treated like the heirlooms the brand has always implied they are through the suggestion that engraving an important message on the caseback is part of the Nomos experience. But Nomos, in comparison with other brands most would identify as their peers, have been treading water in terms of the introduction of new products. Is that a fair criticism? It might not be. After all, if a Nomos (or any watch) is meant to be a purchase that stays with the owner (or the eventual recipient) for decades, constantly releasing new watches to keep up with a manu...

Omega Introduces A Seamaster Diver 300M in Titanium and Bronze Gold

Zenith’s 1/100th Second Chronograph Inlaid with Tiger’s Eye

Zenith has given its 1/100th-of-a-second El Primero 21 an unusual attire – pusher protectors and a dodecagonal bezel in tiger’s eye mineral stone. Matched with a dial featuring tiger stripes and green accents, the Defy Extreme Jungle retains the trademark double balance wheels of the model. The movement features a conventional timekeeping balance operating at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), and a smaller regulator for the chronograph that beats 10 times as fast, 360,000 beats per hour or 50 Hz, enabling the chronograph to record times with a resolution of up to to 1/100th of a second. Initial thoughts I have long thought that the Defy Extreme was too similar to other, more famous oversized sports chronographs, that is, until I actually got to try on the Defy Extreme Jungle in person. The new Defy still evokes other designs, but it is finely executed, with the minerals stone inlay being notably well done. At the same time, the tiger’s eye elements add some originality to the design, so this easily stands out as the most interesting model in the Defy line. The tiger’s eye components, especially since they are prominently positioned, are likely more fragile than the same on the equivalent titanium model, but they add texture and colour so are arguably worth the sacrifice of practicality. At US$26,900, the Defy Extreme Jungle is pricier than the average Zenith chronograph, but still a reasonable proposition given the exotic material and 1/100th of a second movement. Tige...

The ArtyA Gears collection brings bespoke, unique pieces for under $20k

Unique pieces in unique case materials are the topic of ArtyA's latest chronograph release, the Gears collection.The post The ArtyA Gears collection brings bespoke, unique pieces for under $20k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Watches From The ’90s, ’00s, And ’10s

Welcome to another edition of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re back with a lengthy episode to see you through holiday travels or unruly guests. We received a listener suggestion to discuss our favorite watches from the ’90s and ’00s. We’ve added the ’10s to the mix as a bonus. Wait 20 minutes for the […] Visit Fratello On Air: Our Favorite Watches From The ’90s, ’00s, And ’10s to read the full article.

New Release: MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO Silicon Valley

Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry, Silicon Valley’s leading timepiece salon has partnered with MB&F; to release an exclusive edition of the Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO.

First Look - The Grand Seiko Icefall Returns, with the 40mm Titanium SBGH349

In September this year, Grand Seiko unveiled a rather striking new model, the Icefall SBGH347. Not only did this watch come with a new dial pattern and a stunning colour, but it also celebrated an important milestone in the brand’s history, the launch in 1998 of the purely mechanical 9S series. This initial Icefall watch […]

First Look: Élge Returns with the French-Made Chamonix

Reviving defunct watch brands is more common than it once was. Previously, the idea caused excitement, though not without trepidation. Would this reincarnated brand bring back interesting pieces from its archives, be a contemporary reinterpretation of the brand’s spirit, or just be a hollow attempt to cash in on some old name? It was always a waiting game to see which, and we saw all three. But in the years since the strategy for revivals has been refined. Respect for historical designs and proportions is a given, but with so many brands having made similarly styled watches in the past, it’s less provocative to have a vintage-looking watch with a vintage name. What makes a newly revived brand stand out now is its execution and story, if there is one to share. This brings me to this article’s subject, the return of Elgé. Elgé is not a brand I was aware of before being told of their relaunch, and I imagine that is likely the case for most enthusiasts, at least in the US. This immediately presents both a challenge and an opportunity. On one hand, no preconceived notions would lead to expectations. On the other, there is no existing reverence for the brand. Ultimately, they will have to rely on the quality of their designs and the watches themselves, which, in fairness, should always matter more than history, at least in my eyes. So, who is Elgé? Well, information on them is sparse, and based on a quick search, every description appears to be nearly identical, all rif...

Holiday Gift Guide: ​​Hamilton Has a Little Something for Everyone

As enthusiasts, we know that there are just a handful of brands out there that can check boxes on multiple fronts. Hamilton is certainly one of those brands. It’s one of those clear, go-to recommendations for a smart, stylish Swiss watch that has a collection for all kinds of friends and family-making it one of the most giftable brands around. With models built for the adventurous type to the trendsetter in your life-there’s a Hamilton out there for everyone. We’ve identified and paired five Hamilton watches with complementary products for five different personas. Please enjoy the ultimate Hamilton gift guide. The post Holiday Gift Guide: ​​Hamilton Has a Little Something for Everyone appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver One Snow

Some of you might already be familiar with Wren Watches. The New York-based passion project is the brainchild of Wrist Enthusiast founder Craig Karger. A lawyer by trade and watch enthusiast by heart, he started with a Wrist Enthusiast Instagram account that quickly amassed a loyal following. After expanding Wrist Enthusiast onto multiple platforms, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Vintage-Inspired Wren Diver One Snow to read the full article.

The Stunning L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse from Parmigiani Fleurier

If you don’t get what you’re looking at, don’t worry. You’re not alone - in fact, that’s sort of the point. A quick glance at the new L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is more likely to incite questions than offer answers, but the latest masterpiece from Parmigiani Fleurier, timed to release last week in time for founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, presents us with a watch unlike anything we’ve seen from the brand in recent years. The general architecture of the watch will be familiar to those conversant in Parmigiani’s chosen language - the straight squared-off lugs and pastel pallet are reminiscent of the Toric watches released earlier this year - but it won’t take long to realize that there’s something fairly significant missing from the celebratory watch: a dial. The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is also the latest entry in a series of Minute Repeater wristwatches to deliberately de-emphasize the visible display of time we’re all so used to.  Recent examples of this trick have come from H. Moser & Cie., whose Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black opted for a clean Vantablack dial with nothing but a visible tourbillon; and Biver, whose 2023 OnlyWatch entry replaced its visible dial with a beautiful scene rendered in stone marquetry. But just because we’ve seen versions of this before, doesn’t mean the impact is any lessened here. In fact, this implementation is among the best I’ve encountered, and more than holds its own, while a...

Renaud Tixier ‘Monday’ | Fixing the “Unfixable”

The RVNDSGN M1 is a welcome challenge to assumptions about minimalism

From the mind of internationally acclaimed designer Zach Raven, this intriguing minimalist watch offers space-age looks at a reasonable price.The post The RVNDSGN M1 is a welcome challenge to assumptions about minimalism appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Behind The Patek Philippe Cubitus

What do you do when you, as the owner of a watch company, have a thing for square watches? That’s correct: you create a square watch. That, in a nutshell, is the origin story behind the Patek Philippe Cubitus. The launch of the first all-new product line in 25 years was a significant moment not […] Visit Behind The Patek Philippe Cubitus to read the full article.

A Week in Watches Ep. 95 - A Colossal Collab, and More!

The year is winding down, but only after a few more new releases. On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, we take a look at the Ressence Type 9, the smallest Ressence yet. Then we dive into Jacques Bianchi, square up with the Circula Facet, head to the mountains with Élge, and turn green with Fratello and Czapek-lastly, we nerd out with Vianney Halter and Louis Erard, who are bringing steampunk back. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop and its new Brooklyn showroom. Inside, find watches, accessories, EDC, and more from the Windup Watch Shop. The showroom is located at Worn & Wound HQ, a newly built-out shopping space that immerses you in watches from brands you won’t find in your normal AD. If you’re in the area and are interested in stopping by, head to Windupwatchshop.com to book an appointment. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 95 – A Colossal Collab, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Buying Guide - Shopping for Creatively Complex Watches on a Budget of 5,000 Euros

In our fascinating little bubble of mechanical watchmaking, attention often goes to high-dollar watches, and most of the time, that’s for a perfectly logical reason. The arms race in complexity is partly to blame, as brands try to outdo one another for the sake of winning over the public. But adding a complication on top […]

Fratelli Stories: Dan’s Connection To His Grandfathers Through Their Watches

In this latest edition of Fratelli Stories, Fratello reader Dan speaks about the three most special watches in his extensive collection - a Citizen, Seiko, and Edox. These three watches help connect him to warm memories of his two grandfathers. One of the best elements of this hobby has to be the people. I don’t […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Dan’s Connection To His Grandfathers Through Their Watches to read the full article.