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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
REVIEW: Hands On With HZ Watches – The Latest Australian Microbrand! WatchAdvice
Seiko s he got into Jan 24, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With HZ Watches – The Latest Australian Microbrand!

The latest microbrand from Australia is about to launch, and we’ve been wearing their launch model, the HZ.01 for the last week getting a feel for it and the brand! What We Love The vintage-inspired lookThe ability to dress up or downThe circular graining on the dial and green outer track that pops What We Don’t Slightly on the smaller sizeDate window a little too smallLack of lume on the numerals Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8/10 It’s not every day that you get to go hands on with a watch prior to its launch, well, not for an extended period of time and even rarer to wear it for a week or so and have fun with it to review. And when this is the launch model for a brand-new microbrand from Australia, then it is a privilege to test it out, and not only give feedback back to the brand, but let the general watch-buying public know about it and help support a fellow enthusiast-turned-watch maker with their new endeavour. A Bit Of Background HZ Watches is the brainchild of Matthew Zillman, a Melbourne local who, like many of us, developed a love for watches at an early age. Having had some early model Seiko’s, he got into watch modding and building after doing a movement swap on a Seiko 5 with the 7s26 movement. And in his words: “Before I had time to blink, I was modding and creating different custom SKX mods for myself and a few friends at university, which soon blossomed into Seiko Mods Australia” One ...

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The First Watch in Furlan Marri’s New “Editions” Series is Part of the Time+Tide Ten Year Anniversary Celebration Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri s New “Editions” Series Jan 23, 2024

The First Watch in Furlan Marri’s New “Editions” Series is Part of the Time+Tide Ten Year Anniversary Celebration

As Griffin mentioned in his recent write up of the new Studio Underd0g release, our friends at Time+Tide are celebrating their tenth anniversary this year. A major part of the festivities for the Australian watch website centers around the opening of their Watch Discovery Studio in Melbourne. The space is envisioned as a place to go hands-on with new watches from both independent and classic brands, all curated by the Time+Tide team. It’ll also be the home of new product launches and other watch community events, and there are plans to expand to London later this year. It’s an exciting concept, and serves as a starting point for an entirely new type of release from one of our favorite independents, Furlan Marri. The debut in their new Furlan Marri Editions line is tied exclusively to Time+Tide’s retail outlet, but in a twist, they’ll also be giving the general public a shot at the new watch as well.  Furlan Mari Editions releases are conceived as special boutique editions geared toward collectors and enthusiasts. Like other boutique editions, they’ll be available exclusively at a dedicated point of sale. In this case, the Furlan Marri x Time+Tide Outback Elegy will be sold exclusively at the Time+Tide retail location in Melbourne, and later London. But in addition to being sold in these brick and mortar environments, Furlan Marri has elected to also make these releases available to the general public once a year, for a limited time. This way, dedicated fans can ...

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Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph: The Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Jan 23, 2024

Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph: The Ultimate Guide

When we think about watches and space travel, Omega’s Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch” - the first watch qualified for missions by NASA and the first worn on the moon - is the timepiece that inevitably comes to mind. New York-based Bulova Watch Company, however, also played a noteworthy role during the height of the U.S.A.’s Space Race with the Soviet Union in the 1950s and ‘60s. The company, at the time headed by American war hero General Omar Bradley, established a partnership with NASA in which it provided precision instruments and timekeeping devices equipped with Bulova’s signature Accutron tuning-fork technology for 46 space missions.  Bulova even developed a watch built specifically for space travel, the electronic-powered Accutron Astronaut, which was worn in space for the first time in 1963, inside the Mercury Atlas-9 capsule that orbited the Earth. While the Omega Speedmaster established itself as the watch issued to astronauts of the Apollo program, which culminated in the July 1969 moon landing, Accutron Astronaut watches had become standard issue for the pilots of the U.S. Air Force’s X-15 experimental rocket-powered aircraft program and eventually for CIA pilots in their Lockheed A-12 supersonic jets. A Bulova Accutron clock remains in the moon's Sea of Tranquility to this day, placed there by Apollo 11 astronaut (and famous Omega wearer) Buzz Aldrin in 1969.  In 1971, Bulova personally gifted a one-of-a-kind, customized chronograph wa...

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The Making of a Watch: The Sycamore Collection Worn & Wound
Seiko dealers around Jan 23, 2024

The Making of a Watch: The Sycamore Collection

This interview has been edited for length and clarity. When DC Vintage Watch’s Nick Ferrell announced he was launching a watch line, I took notice. Ferrell has made a name as one of the foremost Seiko dealers around, and the first pics he released of the Sycamore line were gorgeous-the Wolf and the Hunter, a matte black GMT and a matte black dress watch, respectively, both with Hindu-Arabic numeral dials that seemed to anticipate the Hindu-Arabic dial craze the watch world has entered. Ferrell’s watch cred and the success of his design are reason enough to be interested in the Sycamore line, but there’s something more about it that fascinated me. With the Wolf and the Hunter, Ferrell has gotten to live the watch enthusiast’s dream: he had an idea for a watch and he actually got to make it. “Some of it was not seeing out there what I wanted myself,” Ferrell recalled in an interview. “And another thing was, there’s that black PVD [Seiko] 6139, it’s kind of like an oval, it’s the 6139-8010 and I took the dial off and I put the 6139 military dial with the Arabic numbers on it. Playing around with this, and I was like, ‘I really like this.’” A Seiko 6139-8010 which served as inspiration for the Sycamore Collection That was about nine months ago-a fitting length of time between the conception of an idea and its birth. Since then, Ferrell has taken that inspiration and produced watches that, while they contain some of the DNA of that initial Seiko mo...

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BOLDR Brings Back the Slide Rule Bezel with the new Expedition Enigmath Worn & Wound
Boldr Brings Back Jan 23, 2024

BOLDR Brings Back the Slide Rule Bezel with the new Expedition Enigmath

While math was never my strong suit in school, I have to say, I’m very excited for Singapore-based BOLDR’s Expedition Enigmath. Designed to harken back to the pre-digital age, the Enigmath is a perfect example of design-led charm with a tactile appeal. The main feature of this watch is its slide rule bezel, which operates as a circular analog calculator. In the early 20th Century, this ingenious tool was used to perform various mathematical calculations and was adapted for tool watches often associated with aviation in the 1950s. By rotating the bezel, users can multiply, divide, and perform other operations without the need for your calculator app. This hands-on approach to calculation not only pays homage to historical methods but also offers a unique and practical feature for those who appreciate the tangible connection to their tools. Crafted with precision and designed for the adventurous spirit, the Expedition Enigmath boasts a robust build with 200 meters of water resistance. The 41mm stainless steel case features both sandblasted and polished finishing in a style that will be familiar to fans of BOLDR’s previous watches. These watches have old-fashioned tool watch vibes with just a small nod to contemporary design tropes in the use of color on the dial and some subtle bits of case work. The Enigmath houses a Japan-made Miyota 9039 automatic movement, offering self-winding capabilities, hacking seconds, and an impressive 42-hour power reserve. The matte-textur...

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The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - Jan 23, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years

Two decades ago, Omega reintroduced the racing dial to the Speedmaster Professional. It was only for the Japanese market, and only 2,004 pieces were produced. As you might know, there are more of them around, but we’ll get to that later. Speedmaster Japan Racing 3570.40 First, let’s go back 20 years. At that time, Omega […] Visit The Omega Speedmaster Japan Racing - It Has Been 20 Years to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake Monochrome
Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Jan 23, 2024

Introducing – The Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Skeleton by Peter Speake

Frederique Constant, renowned, among other things, for its remarkable price-to-quality ratio, surprised the watch community with its original Slimline Perpetual Calendar model 2016. This competitively priced (under EUR 10,000) watch, equipped with the brand’s FC-775 perpetual calendar calibre, quickly gained recognition. In 2022, Frederique Constant presented an unexpected update to this model through a collaboration […]

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The Original Miami Beach Antique Show with the Jones & Horan Auction House Worn & Wound
Jan 22, 2024

The Original Miami Beach Antique Show with the Jones & Horan Auction House

The Miami Beach Antique Show is known to be the largest vintage and antique show in North America and is typically held every January at the Miami Beach Convention Center in Miami Beach, FL. It brings collectors and vendors from all over the world to arguably the biggest treasure hunt one could undertake. Miami is my hometown, so making the choice to attend this year’s show (my third overall) was an easy one. At the show, I met up with the team from Jones & Horan auction house. This was my first time connecting with them and they were certainly a treat. They were kind enough to show me some of the most interesting watches that they had at their booth and share stories about the watches and their owner, George. Based in Goffstown, NH, Jones & Horan is a small “mom and pop” auction house with an interesting story. It all began with owner George E. Jones and his father George F. Jones selling milk from their farm and bartering with customers for found items around their homes. Eventually, this led the younger George to start selling and buying other items. Some fun facts I learned at the show about George: He’s fist-fought a baboon, he was gored by a cow while protecting his son, traveled around England buying English estates, and he’s rumored to have been featured in National Geographic while exploring parts between Asia and the Middle East (the crew are still hunting for that issue). He’s what some might call a real life version of “the most interesting man in...

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Introducing – The New Bremont Limited Series in Partnership with the Royal National Lifeboat Institution Monochrome
Bremont Limited Series Jan 22, 2024

Introducing – The New Bremont Limited Series in Partnership with the Royal National Lifeboat Institution

Over the years, British luxury watch brand Bremont has distinguished itself by offering diverse timepieces “tested beyond endurance” across the Sea, Land, and Air collections and for having established a solid connection with armed forces. The brand has dedicated a significant portion of its catalogue to special and limited editions, aligning with its commitment to […]

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Blending In This Monday Morning With The Tudor Black Bay Bronze In Slate Gray Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Bronze Jan 22, 2024

Blending In This Monday Morning With The Tudor Black Bay Bronze In Slate Gray

I know, the Tudor Black Bay Bronze is a bit of a golden oldie - or a gold-looking bronze oldie. This version debuted on the Tudor “menu” in 2019, but why not have seconds almost five years later and find out if it’s still as tasty? What the watch does as soon as it comes […] Visit Blending In This Monday Morning With The Tudor Black Bay Bronze In Slate Gray to read the full article.

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Exhibition: Seiko Explores the Amusing and Avant-Garde with Power Design Project 2024 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko s distincti Jan 22, 2024

Exhibition: Seiko Explores the Amusing and Avant-Garde with Power Design Project 2024

Seiko has just opened the latest installation of Power Design Project, the annual exhibition that invites watch designers to explore experimental ideas designs centred on a particular theme that diverge from their conventional designs, generating innovative concepts that might one day be incorporated into watches. This year’s exhibition is titled Incredibly Specialized Watches and serves as extension of last year’s event with a continued focus on avant-garde designs with a functional twist. One of this year’s creations is a sukiyaki timer that helps the wearer cook beef in the hotpot dish – complete with a Kobe beef-pattern strap. Originally conceived two decades ago and halted in 2009, Power Design Project was revived in 2022 to capitalise on the increased interest in Seiko’s diverse stable of timekeepers. Taking place at Seiko’s exhibition space in the trendy district of Harajuku, the 2024 exhibition takes place from January 19th to March 31st. For this year’s exhibition, Seiko recruited seven designers to create distinct perspectives on wristwatches, with each design meant to specialise in a specific timekeeping function. As a result, the exhibition features seven watch models, but each with in two different configurations of the dial, case, and strap, resulting in 14 different timepieces in total. The sukiyaki watch Consider the ambidextrous wristwatch concept created Seiko’s in-house designer Kento Ito. This watch epitomises Grand Seiko’s distincti...

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In-Depth: The Genius Behind the Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication Compl... Jan 22, 2024

In-Depth: The Genius Behind the Audemars Piguet Universelle RD#4 Ultra-Complication

Complicated watches are crucial to Audemars Piguet’s history, starting from its establishment in 1875 to the modern day; Audemars Piguet (AP) even supplied “ultra” complication movements to other brands in the late 19th and early 20th century. But it was in 2022 that the brand debuted its most impressive complicated watch – arguably the most impressive ever – the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4. “Ultra” complications with multiple functions are de rigueur for important watch brands, from Patek Philippe to F.P. Journe, so the Universelle RD#4 is unsurprising given the status of Audemars Piguet as one of the traditional “holy trinity” of Swiss watchmaking. The Universelle RD#4 is surprising, however, in its execution. The Universelle RD#4 is not merely another oversized and extremely complicated watch. Instead it has been thoughtfully designed to be unexpectedly user-friendly and wearable. In fact, the slim and sophisticated construction of its cal. 1000 is as much of an accomplishment as the long list of complications it offers. Put another way, the cal. 1000 is a masterclass in achieving the right balance between complexity, usability, and wearability. The historical Universelle pocket watch from 1899 in the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet that served as inspiration for its modern-day namesake An overview The Universelle RD#4 is an “ultra” complication – there’s no other way to describe it. The watch ticks the boxe...

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Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series Jan 21, 2024

Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series

Today, we’ll go hands-on with models from the newest Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot series. These are great-looking watches that bring a healthy dose of everyday utility along with cues from pilot’s watches. Expect great legibility and specs. Also, because this is Hamilton, all of that goodness is affordable. The Hamilton Khaki series will always have […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Series to read the full article.

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Christie’s Is Auctioning Part Of Sir Elton John’s Eclectic Watch Collection Fratello
Jan 20, 2024

Christie’s Is Auctioning Part Of Sir Elton John’s Eclectic Watch Collection

Now, I have to admit, when I signed up to write for Fratello, I did not expect to ever write about Sir Elton John. But here we are! Granted, it’s for a good reason. Christie’s is auctioning a plethora of items from his Atlanta mansion, including a watch collection. And what a watch collection it […] Visit Christie’s Is Auctioning Part Of Sir Elton John’s Eclectic Watch Collection to read the full article.

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Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex Fratello
Citizen s Jan 20, 2024

Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex

When you read the name Zenith, what comes to mind? Radios? Televisions? Well, at one point in its history, the watch brand Zenith was owned by the Zenith Radio Corporation of America, so that’s not completely weird, especially if you’re American. But for non-US citizens and, in particular, watch-focused ones, Zenith means El Primero - […] Visit Breaking Down The Brand Zenith: The Watch Brand That Could Have Been Bigger Than Rolex to read the full article.

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Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review Teddy Baldassarre
Raymond Weil Jan 19, 2024

Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Review

Raymond Weil, founded in 1975 by its eponym and now owned and operated by the Bernheim family, is one of only a handful of independently owned Swiss watchmaking companies, alongside historic, prestigious maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The Geneva-based company, however, occupies a different niche than those two high-horology powerhouses, having firmly established itself as a purveyor of “affordable luxury”  - producing well-designed watches with wide appeal that nevertheless rarely gain attention in the upper echelons of horological connoisseurship. That all changed in 2023, however, when the sublimely refined design of the brand’s Millesime Small Seconds model took the coveted Challenge award in the year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève (GPHG), the watch world’s equivalent of the Oscars. With its sober but meticulously embellished sector dial and slender case, the watch represents a throwback to a style of understatedly elegant dress watch that few seem to be making anymore. I had a chance to wear one for a couple weeks for a hands-on review. (To get Teddy's video take on the watch on our dedicated Reviews channel, click here.) Case: The round stainless steel case of the Millesime (the term comes from the world of fine wine, and appropriately translates to “vintage”) will settle perfectly into many enthusiasts’ sweet spot, at 39mm in diameter, and its thickness of just under 11mm (10.9mm, to be super-precise) will ensure that it set...

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Special Pen Spotlight Worn & Wound
Jan 19, 2024

Special Pen Spotlight

Our love of wristwatches is part of a greater passion for mechanical things of all kinds and sizes. On one end, analog cars capture our imaginations, while on the smaller side, something as simple as a well-executed ballpoint pen can also provide satisfaction. That’s exactly why we are dedicating today’s Chronicle to highlight a few of the pens from the Shop. Here are three we would happily use and recommend to family and friends. All three happen to also be featured in promotions and sales, so hop on over to the Windup Watch Shop Pen Page to discover these – and many more – today. If what you are looking for is out of stock, don’t sweat it; we are constantly checking and restocking pens. And, of course, remember to sign up for our rewards program to earn points with every purchase. Our love of wristwatches is part of a greater passion for mechanical things of all kinds and sizes. On one end, analog cars capture our imaginations, while on the smaller side, something as simple as a well-executed ballpoint pen can also provide satisfaction. That’s exactly why we are dedicating today’s Chronicle to highlight a few of the pens from the Shop. Here are three we would happily use and recommend to family and friends. All three happen to also be featured in promotions and sales, so hop on over to the Windup Watch Shop Pen Page to discover these – and many more – today. If what you are looking for is out of stock, don’t sweat it; we are constantly checking and ...

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Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II Fratello
Fears Jan 19, 2024

Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II

British watchmaking has carved out a niche for itself thanks to a handful of strong brands leading the pack. And with the newest versions of the Fears Brunswick 40, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill attempts a daring feat. Together with top US retailer Topper, we are treated to a blend of Californian nature and British watchmaking. Many small […] Visit Introducing: The New Fears Brunswick 40 Topper Edition Series II to read the full article.

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Fratello’s Top 5 Current Seiko Watches Under €500 - Featuring Seiko 5, Prospex, And Presage Models Fratello
Seiko Watches Under €500 - Jan 19, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Current Seiko Watches Under €500 - Featuring Seiko 5, Prospex, And Presage Models

Another Friday, another Top 5! After two lists of the best watches under €1,000, we’re staying on the topic of affordable watches. This week’s list focuses on the best Seiko watches under €500. The Japanese brand used to be the undisputed king of affordable mechanical timepieces. However, with rising prices, we sometimes think those days […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Current Seiko Watches Under €500 - Featuring Seiko 5, Prospex, And Presage Models to read the full article.

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Breguet Introduces an Atypical Classique for the Year of the Dragon SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jan 19, 2024

Breguet Introduces an Atypical Classique for the Year of the Dragon

Continuing a recent streak of unusual designs that depart from its traditional formality, Breguet is marking the Chinese Lunar New Year with the Classique “Dragon” ref. 7145BR. Unlike last year’s “Rabbit” edition that was a whimsical ladies’ watch, this year’s Chinese zodiac edition is an ultra-thin men’s watch with a surprisingly vivid and figurative enamel dial in two shades of red. Initial thoughts A dragon-themed watch is not unexpected, and Breguet joins brands like Vacheron Constantin and Blancpain in launching such watches for the Lunar New Year. The watch itself, however, is a radical departure from the usual Breguet style in both colour and execution. Even though there are enough elements on the dial to mark it out as a Breguet, the aesthetic is more elaborate than the average Breguet, which tends towards classical restraint. Even though it is different, I like this approach because it offers something new in terms of aesthetics. That said, the engraved dragon appliqué isn’t exactly right in terms of design. The creature is too stout and lacks the slender proportions of the dragon as portrayed in Classical Chinese art. The overall aesthetic would have been much improved with a restyled dragon. The execution is in the high quality expected of Breguet, so the dragon is solid gold and the dial is grand feu enamel. As a result, the price is US$77,800, significantly greater than the standard Classique 5157, but within the ballpark for such metiers d...

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Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs Fratello
Studio Underd0g Jan 19, 2024

Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs

Did anyone order pizza? Well, actually, I know many of you did. When Studio Underd0g founder Richard Benc and Time+Tide founder Andrew McUtchen seemed to launch a pizza watch last April, watch enthusiasts went wild. Unfortunately, it was a very well-played April Fools’ joke, and everybody could soon get back to what they were doing. […] Visit Your Pizza Is Ready! - Introducing The Highly Requested Studio Underd0g Pepper0ni And Hawaiian Chronographs to read the full article.

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