Deployant
New: Chronoswiss Opus 40th Anniversary in Titanium
Chronoswiss celebrates its 40th Anniversary with the addition of two new models to their Opus model, both in titanium case with skeletonised dials.
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SJX Watches
Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum
The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Andre Iguodala
This is the summer of Andre Iguodala. The Golden State Warriors small forward is fresh off winning the NBA finals MVP. He's flying all over the world talking to artists and designers, presenting at the ESPY Awards, and becoming the king of New York Men's Fashion Week. And Talking Watches, of course.
Time+Tide
The many facets of the Hublot Chronograph Orlinski Titanium
From case pushers to bracelet clasp, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is a bit of a light(weight) show.The post The many facets of the Hublot Chronograph Orlinski Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Crazy Hot Wheels Collection, a Cider Donut Map, and the Works of Mike Flanagan
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com The Microsoft x Activision Deal is Final Microsoft, after many months of negotiations with regulatory bodies across the globe, has finalized their purchase of Activision, set to be the largest consumer tech acquisition in over twenty years. It’s a huge deal if you’re interested in gaming, for sure, but it’s an even bigger development in the world of tech writ large, and a sign that regulators who have tried to stifle the Microsofts, Googles, and Metas of the world from growing too large and powerful might be out of luck. The New York Times has the story, along with an analysis of what this deal might signify for companies the size of Microsoft going forward. Every Mike Flanagan Project, Ranked If you’re a horror movie fan, you’re coming to the end of what is probably your favorite month of the year. Horror movies (and TV series) just hit different in October. This year, as always, there’s an influx of high profile films and limited series with a spooky bent making their debut ahead of Halloween, and perhaps no single project has been more anticipated than The Fall of the Hou...
Time+Tide
Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast
This is less a recommended reading, and more so a recommended listening or viewing. A long time coming, schedules finally aligned and our Editor Zach Blass was able to join Peri and Ben, two thirds of the trio behind the burgeoning Wrist Check Podcast, to talk watches. Wrist Check explains: “Wrist Check is a weekly … ContinuedThe post Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Martin Scorsese Wearing A Rolex 'Kermit' Submariner Ref. 16610LV While Filming 'Killers Of The Flower Moon'
The maestro utilizes his seldom-seen tool watch on-set, and we have the pictures to prove it.
Teddy Baldassarre
The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction
How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...
Hodinkee
Auctions: Top Lots And Deep Cuts From This Weekend's Monaco Legend Fall Auction
From rare vintage Cartier, Patek, and Rolex to hyper-complicated neo-vintage watches, Monaco Legend Group has put together a quintessential vintage-lover's auction.
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”
Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...
Deployant
The Collector’s View: “Watch_Miyagi” and his love affair with watches
We talk to Singapore collector, Terence Chan (IG: Watch_Miyagi) on his collecting journey and spot light some of his favourite watches.
SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert
After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...
Worn & Wound
The James Brand and Timex Debut a Colorful New Ironman
If there’s one thing we love around here, it’s an affordable collaboration between two brands we admire. And if there’s a second thing, it’s the 1990s. Well, it just so happens that the latest from our friends at The James Brand and Timex check both of those boxes. The new TJB edition of the classic Timex Ironman comes during a period where brands have fully leaned into collaborative watches to the point that they are the norm, rather than special. But if you are old enough to have a living memory of the 90s (the heyday of the Ironman) it’s hard not to love a release like this one. The James Brand, for those who might not have been fully wrapped up into the everyday carry scene quite yet, is a Portland, OR based brand making knives, tools, and other EDC items with an eye toward a contemporary and minimalist design language. They can still employ some serious color when called upon though, as their recent collaboration with Topo Designs more than illustrates. This new Ironman incorporates James Brand practicality with a color palette that leans into their more adventurous side, as seen in products like their Redstone and Palmer knives. But it’s turned up to 11 here, in a way that will feel familiar to devotees of the original Ironmans from years ago. The 39mm resin case is dominated by a vibrant yellow bezel, and is accented with bright red buttons on the case flanks and a turquoise strap made from #TIDE up-cycled ocean plastics. Of course, there’s also an...
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Watches Review: The Independent Brand's History and Modern Milest
Oris started out as a maker of mechanical watches - first for the waistcoat, then for the wrist - in 1904. After a long period of growth in the first half of the 20th Century, the Swiss company underwent a series of ownership and management changes that threatened to forever change its direction and sacrifice its independence. Successfully steering its way through the storms of those Quartz Crisis years, Oris emerged stronger, now a staple for value-conscious enthusiasts of Swiss-made watches. Its modern pillars, like the Big Crown Pointer Date, which traces its existence all the way back to the 1930s; the Aquis family of sporty diver’s watches; and the vintage-influenced Diver Sixty-Five, have all helped to build the brand’s modern identity. In this comprehensive guide to Oris Watches, I explore the brand’s inspiring history, its significant watchmaking milestones, and the standouts from its modern collection. Foundations to Growth Oris, one of the watch world’s few remaining major independent brands, traces its history back to 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, in the German-speaking Swiss canton of Basel-Landschaft, by Paul Cattin and Georges Christian. Cattin and Christian, both natives of the Swiss watchmaking town Le Locle, purchased the recently closed Lohner & Co. watch factory as the base of their new company, which the co-founders named “Oris,” after the Orisbach tributary, a brook near the factory. Initially, the company made pocket watches ...
Hodinkee
Ben Clymer Presents: Ep. 02 – Ten Years Of Talking Watches
Danny joins Ben to chat about a decade of Talking Watches and take questions live from the audience.
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Surprising Zenith Pilot Automatic](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/10/Zenith_05.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Surprising Zenith Pilot Automatic
Zenith has taken a methodical approach to fleshing out the collections of their 4 families of watches, balancing a weighty heritage against an ethos that forces progress. How they’ve gone about this has been the subject of several of our reviews, and even editorials about the brand’s more recent history. Their newest collection of watches, released earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, explores another realm of the brand’s past: pilot watches. Zenith first filed a trademark for the French term “Pilote” in 1888, decades before the Wright brothers made history in Kitty Hawk, and to this day are the only brand permitted to print the word on the dial (they trademarked the English word “Pilot” in 1904). Zenith has made some unforgettable pilot watches in their day (the A3822 being a personal favorite), but it’s been many years since they’ve done so in a way that’s captured modern enthusiasts. Zenith has a checkered recent past when it comes to pilot watches, with releases dotted through the 20-teens not quite hitting the notes they needed to lay the groundwork for a permanent collection in the same way their classic sport watches have. But then, Pilot watches are a different breed altogether. Zenith’s approach with their newest collection of Pilot watches feels very different from those recent efforts, and feels like a genuine, modern approach to building a collection with some legs. To get a better sense of that direction, we spent some time with the ...
Hodinkee
Ed Sheeran x Hodinkee x G-SHOCK Limited Edition
After three years of collaborations with John Mayer, he asked friend and fellow musician, Ed Sheeran, to design his very own G-SHOCK. Introducing the G-SHOCK Ref. 6900 - Subtract By Ed Sheeran For Hodinkee.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Fratello × Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax
Big, bold, and brown. This new release has a lot to love if you're looking for a pilot's chronograph.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Chronograph In Gold (Live Pics)
This is the closest TAG Heuer has gotten yet to the dream vintage gold Heuer.
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair New York Features Record Amount of New Releases this Weekend
There’s something special about the week leading up to a Windup. Ahead of every Windup-but especially hosting on our home turf, during the changing season-there’s an electricity that keeps us fueled. With the final confirmations and early morning setups to transform The Altman Building into the inimitable Windup Watch Fair 2023, we’d say it’s no different this year…but that’s simply not true. There’s so much new stuff happening this year! The venue may be the same, but the space is bigger. This year we’re taking over both floors of the Altman Building to host 83 watch and EDC brands from Friday, October 20, through Sunday, October 22. Of these partners, over 35 companies are releasing a new product for first-time public viewings and wrist shots. When you walk into the space, you’ll see some of the biggest names in watches, including our lead sponsors: Bulova, Christopher Ward, G-Shock, Oris, and Zodiac, as well as other incredible brands. Be sure to enter the giveaway at Reception with prizes from G-Shock, Fossil, Timely Soles, and Xeric. And while you’re there pick up our first-ever brand book to help you navigate the space. It also becomes a nice little memento of your time at Windup. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free to enter and open to the public. Make your plan to come see us this weekend with these details: The Altman Building on 18th Street between 6th and 7th avenues (135 W 18th St) Friday, October 20: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, Octob...
SJX Watches
Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum
After its initial introduction 18 years ago, the Lange 1 Time Zone with a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial has made a comeback with a second-generation model. The revival features the cal. L141.1, which adds a daylight-saving time function to the second time zone. Already one of the most complex world time watches at the time of its launch, the second-generation Lange 1 Time Zone still stands out as one of the most advanced travel watches available today. Initial thoughts This combination of a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial takes us nearly two decades back in time, as the original model was available in this same livery. It’s heartening to witness this classic pairing return, but now powered by the upgraded cal. L141.1. Most striking is the timeless appeal of this watch. Examining it, I can’t help but think that the design has not aged, a testament to the enduring style of A. Lange & Söhne that is both formal and functional. Its longevity and continued relevance over the years are remarkable. To complement this, it’s worth noting the consistently surprising comfort provided by the relatively large case, which sits effortlessly on the wrist. Unlike typical sporty tool watches, it maintains a classical look and size that complements elegant attire, such as, of course, an airline captain’s suit. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that the readability of its dial under certain light conditions remains a significant challenge. Despite this sligh...
Worn & Wound
MICROMILSPEC is Back with a Watch Made in Collaboration with the Norwegian Air Force
While not necessarily a household name, MICROMILSPEC is well-known in military and law enforcement circles across Norway, the United States, and soon Canada. A Scandinavian brand that’s dedicated to creating performance-tested, long-lasting timepieces built for the specific needs of its customers, MICROMILSPEC’s brand ethos isn’t to sell volume – it’s to become an invaluable tool on the field or during active duty. Because of this, many of MICROMILSPEC’s watches have been bespoke one-off designs for the commissioner’s specific purpose; not necessarily for commercial sale. Crafting these highly specialized pieces has always been the backbone of the brand, but MICROMILSPEC has since started to catch the eye of collectors who want to own one of their watches without, for example, risking their lives or working for an intelligence agency. Because of this, MICROMILSPEC has opened some of their designs to the general public for a limited-edition release. One such watch is the new HERCULES. Built in partnership with the Norwegian Air Force’s 335 Squadron, the HERCULES is dedicated to the aircraft that shares its name. To build a watch that has as much ingenuity and power as the esteemed aircraft, the Norwegian watchmaker worked in conjunction with the Squadron for over a year to exacting specifications. The result is a 100-piece limited edition that’s as technically precise as it is wearable. Every inch of the HERCULES has an intentional – and functional – q...
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g launch the Field collection, and the sequel is just as good as the original
Calling it their "second album", Studio Underd0g seem to have a greatest hits contender on their hands with the new Field.The post Studio Underd0g launch the Field collection, and the sequel is just as good as the original appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont
Over the years we've really warmed up to Bremont on this site, even though I think they've had some misses recently. The S302 GMT I reviewed is still a hit in my eyes and this time, I wanted to test out one of the more entry-level offerings in the catalog. By the way, that S302 even made its way into our guide covering the best military watches ever. While it's not necessarily affordable by any means, the Bremont Broadsword seemed to be a compelling entry point, specifically within the brand's Armed Forces collection. I jumped at the opportunity to try it out this year, along with a couple of other field watches in my rotation.
Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility. The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...
Time+Tide
The Benrus Ultra-Deep copies a page from the history books
The Benrus Ultra-Deep is a faithful twin-crown diver homage looks like it sprung straight out of the 1960s.The post The Benrus Ultra-Deep copies a page from the history books appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces a New Master Ultra Thin Moon with a Dramatic Gradient Blue Dial and Rose Gold Case
Sometimes a watch comes along and just kind of stops you in your tracks. We all, I think, have those moments where we stumble across a watch or see a new release and imagine that the brand has downloaded your thoughts and run them through some kind of artificial intelligence program designed to create watches that are uniquely appealing to you, and you alone. I think a lot of people are actually going to find the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon to be that kind of beautiful, but it happens to hit on a bunch of things that really sing to me in a watch like this. The Master Ultra Thin watches are incredible pieces of engineering, with impossibly slim movements that translate to cases that provide a wearing experience like little else on the market. If I could ever identify a gripe with the line, though, it’s that the dials have never really blown me away. They are very nice, to be sure, but they have a tendency to be relentlessly dressy, and a bit sober. That’s perfectly fine of course for a watch in this genre, but they tend not to have that “wow” factor. They’re watches for connoisseurs who know exactly what they’re looking for. The newest entry in the Master Ultra Thin collection has all the watchmaking chops and refined sensibilities of every other watch in their corner of the JLC family tree, but this one leads with the dial in a way that others don’t. The new Master Ultra Thin Moon features a dark gradient blue dial, borrowing a bit of that...
Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Neo Constant (Force) Escapement: The Evolution of a Revolution
While it is remarkable how Girard-Perregaux made the movement, it is even more astonishing how they turned it into such an incredibly good-looking watch. Compared to its predecessor, the Neo Constant Escapement has a very wearable size of 45mm in diameter at a thickness of 14.8mm. It sits nicely on even a smaller wrist thanks to relatively short lugs, while the titanium case keeps the weight down.
Worn & Wound
Now In The Shop: Breaking Barriers With AVI-8’s New Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition
AVI-8 is a new brand to the Windup Watch Shop, and they’re debuting with the all-new Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition. Formed in 2012, AVI-8 set out to explore the world of aviation through horology. The brand draws inspiration from all facets of aviation, whether it’s an iconic aircraft, record-breaking feat, or act of bravery. The Bell X-1 Automatic pulls from all three, commemorating Chuck Yeager’s history making flight of the Bell X-1 aircraft well past the speed of sound. AVI-8 is a new brand to the Windup Watch Shop, and they’re debuting with the all-new Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition. Formed in 2012, AVI-8 set out to explore the world of aviation through horology. The brand draws inspiration from all facets of aviation, whether it’s an iconic aircraft, record-breaking feat, or act of bravery. The Bell X-1 Automatic pulls from all three, commemorating Chuck Yeager’s history making flight of the Bell X-1 aircraft well past the speed of sound. The post Now In The Shop: Breaking Barriers With AVI-8’s New Bell X-1 Automatic Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course
A Week In Watches returns with big news from Seiko, who revealed a pair of new Prospex references which celebrate the brand’s history in land-based watches. The pair of limited editions each pick up something special from Seiko’s history, starting with the SPB411 GMT, a watch that recalls the Navigator Timer of the ’60s, which was Seiko first GMT to feature a rotating bezel. The second is a revival of the Landmaster in celebration of its 30th anniversary, where Seiko has brought back the 3 dimensional compass bezel and blue gradient dial. Both work exceptionally well, and highlight the brand’s deep tool watch roots at their very best. Elsewhere we were thrilled to see a new release from Baltic this week, which shifted away from old-school-cool dive watches and put focus on classic field watches. The frame works brilliantly here with lumed applied numerals, a svelte case, and a trick crown that sits flush with the case wall. The watch boasts 4 different dials at launch, and is a welcome expansion of the brand’s refined sense of design. Finally, new releases from Nomos and Ming, as well as a collaboration between Montblanc/Minerva and Collective round out the news that’s caught our attention this week. Catch the full episode below for the run down, and be sure to leave a comment on your thoughts in the video for us to highlight in the next episode. Thanks to this week’s sponsor, Shinola, for their support. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufact...