Deployant
Cool and new: Franck Muller x ST Dupont Master Lighter
The Franck Muller x ST Dupont Master Lighter retails between USD 56,500 and USD 65,300. Four models are offered, each limited to 88 pieces.
Results for Lug-to-Lug
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Hodinkee
Auctions: A Cartier London Maxi Ronde Is Coming Up For Sale... In London
Is this classically round watch a tame example of Cartier London, or an elegant antidote to Cartier Crash mania?
SJX Watches
Explained: The Detent Escapement
Among the many different escapement types, one in particular stands out, the detent escapement. Taking its name from détente, French for “trigger”, this system is often considered to be the purest type of escapement due to its efficiency and virtually lubrication-free operation. Any sort of mechanical clock or watch requires an escapement, a mechanism that transfers torque from the power source to the regulating organ. The escapement bridges the steady rotation of the gears in the going train and the oscillation of the balance. As a result, the escapement fulfils a double function, both maintaining the swing of the balance and regulating the discharge speed of the mainspring and going train. The detent escapement was invented in the second half of the 18th century, somewhat simultaneously but independently by the English watchmakers Thomas Earnshaw (1749-1829) and John Arnold (1736-1799). A somewhat similar escapement was prototyped by the Frenchman Pierre Le Roy (1717–1785) some three decades earlier, but the modern detent escapement is derived mostly from Earnshaw’s design. Initially, the escapement was conceived for use in marine chronometers, explaining why it is also known as a chronometer escapement. The chronometer escapement also inspired many innovative subsequent escapements, like the Breguet’s natural escapement, the Robin escapement, and the Daniels co-axial. Drawings of detent escapement types taken from ‘The Marine Chronometer: Its History and ...
Fratello
Why The Doxa Sub 300 Is A Watch Icon Worth Your Time
The history of a watch can be vital for its ongoing success. But while Doxa’s Sub 300 had a storied past, the brand did not survive the Quartz Crisis. Thankfully, in recent years, under the stewardship of the Jenny family, Doxa has been going from strength to strength. It is time that we had a […] Visit Why The Doxa Sub 300 Is A Watch Icon Worth Your Time to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold
This is hardly the first open-worked version of the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin, but it is my favorite one so far. The perfection is in the white gold that “AP” used for the watch’s exterior, the internal and external finishing, and the choice of colors. The way the watch combines significant weight […] Visit Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked In White Gold to read the full article.
Fratello
The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award?
After Omega introduced several Speedmasters not aimed at Moonwatch enthusiasts (e.g. the Speedmaster Super Racing with Spirate technology and the updated Speedmaster Apollo 8), the white-dial Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch finally came out on March 5th, 2024. I use the word “finally” because Omega had already shown it in October 2023 on the wrist of former […] Visit The White Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch - Better Than The Silver Snoopy Award? to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Cycling Edition
Tudor releases a new Pelagos FXD Chrono, now with a cycling-theme to join the existing FXD Chrono Alinghi Red Bull Racing Edition.
Time+Tide
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Stories exhibition is finally coming Down Under with a pop-up in Sydney
The globe-trotting Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Stories exhibition comes to Australia, popping up in Sydney’s Martin Place from the 10th to the 19th of May.The post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Stories exhibition is finally coming Down Under with a pop-up in Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A Habring2 Doppel 38 “Sector” Dial for Hong Kong
Made for the 10th anniversary of its retailer in the city, the Habring² Doppel 38 Hong Kong Edition is a split-seconds chronograph sporting the brand’s signature “bullhead” pusher layout. With only 10 made for A Watch Company, the Hong Kong edition is essentially a standard Doppel 38 but with a dial almost identical to that on the Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary. Initial thoughts The basic Doppel 38 is probably the best value rattrapante on the market. It’s a manual-wind split-seconds chronograph with a smartly constructed movement for about US$12,000. Functionality aside, the Hong Kong Edition is even more appealing, thanks to the refined dial design. Admittedly, it is not an original design since it’s clearly vintage inspired – and the “sector” layout has been done by many brands – but it is still a good look. Priced at HK$89,800, or about US$11,500, the Doppel 38 is arguably an even better value proposition than the regular production model thanks to the styling. A value proposition rattrapante Highly regarded for value-minded timepieces, Habring² is Austrian brand run by husband and wife team Richard and Maria Habring. Featuring the “bullhead” pushers at two and ten, the Doppel 38 has compact, elegant dimensions considering the complication, with the steel case measuring 38 mm by 11.5 mm. The case is mirror-polished on the bezel and tops of the lugs with satin brushing on the sides. The blued chronograph minutes hand has a retro, po...
Quill & Pad
10 Watches Under $500 – and Some Under $200 – That I Love
While we tend to focus on the upper end of the watch market on Quill & Pad, the vast majority of collectors have much more limited disposable income to satiate their desires. However, as American college student and founder of the Campus Watch Chronicle blog, Sam Loiterstein explains here, there are a plethora of great options available for less than $250. Here are 10 of his favorites.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Long-Awaited Mint Green Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 and a New Green PRX Chronograph
Summer is upon us, so we’re all hunkering for some fresh, cool, tasty treats, right? And what could be better than some mint green editions of the very popular Tissot PRX Automatic 35mm & 40mm? Well, how about a gradient dark green edition of the PRX Chronograph? And you’re in luck, as you can now […]
Fratello
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More
It is time for another round of Fratello editors’ favorites in a specific segment. This time, we are looking at the best watches under €2,500, and I get the honor of kicking it off. Now, while €2.5K is a huge amount of money by any measure, it is starting to feel quite limiting within the […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €2,500 - Thomas’s Picks From Longines, Lorca, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Zelos Spearfish Dual Time
If a tide pool at a waterpark represented the world of micro/independent watches, some brands would be the kids who sit at the edge, waiting for a wave to bowl them over, others would be the dad that overcompensates by proving he can swim all the way out to the source only before losing his trunks, and then there’s Zelos…the person who showed up in their custom Speedo and polarized purple goggles doing laps around the perimeter. If you want a quality diver, finished brilliantly, made with interesting materials, eye-popping dials, all for around $500, Zelos has you covered. However, there is another Zelos. One that lights up a cigar, slips out of their lounge sandals, and makes their way into a meticulously curated tranquility pool…but still with the purple polarized goggles. This Zelos comes around a couple times a year, playing with high-end Swiss movements and interesting complications. The first “tranquility pool” Zelos of the year recently hit the market. They took the case from their popular Spearfish line and released the Spearfish Dual Time. Three of the five watches in the line are made of titanium and come on titanium bracelets; the remaining two have cases made from forged carbon and come on a canvas leather strap. I had the pleasure of trying out the Moonscape forged carbon model for a little over a week, and while I do have some complicated thoughts on the model itself, what is indisputable is that you’re getting lavish materials and an elaborate ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Up-Close with the British-Made Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds
Over the past couple of years, plenty of watchmakers have gone above and beyond to demonstrate (and thus preserve) traditional watchmaking methods. It might be a romantic way of thinking, but we shouldn’t forget where the industry comes from and how watches were made in the old days. No CNC-machining, no computational calculations, no advanced […]
Worn & Wound
Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch
It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...
Fratello
A Pocket Watch Owned By A Titanic Passenger Sells At Auction
If only watches could tell stories! This watch, which belonged to Titanic passenger John Jacob Astor, would certainly have a story to tell. On April 14th, 1912, the RMS Titanic struck an iceberg. It was just after 11:40 that night. The ship, which had been touted as unsinkable because of the leading technology used in […] Visit A Pocket Watch Owned By A Titanic Passenger Sells At Auction to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple
As a fan of Armin Strom, I have had the pleasure of reviewing many of the brand’s previous models. Back in 2019, I was following the story of the then-new Gravity Equal Force, and while the watch was and still is out of my financial reach, I was amazed by what the Biel/Bienne Maison presented […] Visit Introducing: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple to read the full article.
Monochrome
Just Because – Singapore Watch Club Releases a Collection of 15 Vacheron Constantin Chronographs 47101
Watch clubs are burgeoning worldwide to gather enthusiasts around a single passion: their appreciation of beautiful timepieces. We’ve seen this in all regions, such as, for instance, the Emirates Watch Club founded by Malek bin Easa. Travelling further East is the Singapore Watch Club, which was founded in 2015 and has been gathering collectors and […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II
One of the most esoteric offerings in Only Watch 2024 is the Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque II. A follow-up to the first edition made in 2017, the Mosaïque II sticks to the same template that was originally inspired by a 19th century pocket watch with an inlaid case. It’s essentially an F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain with a slightly larger case inlaid with semi-precious stones and a hinged hunter back. This also makes F.P. Journe the only brand with two watches – the other is the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu – in the upcoming charity auction that takes place on May 10, 2024. Initial thoughts I liked the original version because it was recognisable as an F.P. Journe watch, yet entirely different. The Mosaïque II holds the same appeal, albeit at a far higher price given the increased demand for F.P. Journe in the years since. While in 2017 one could reasonably hope to buy the first Mosaïque for a high five-figure price – in fact it sold for a trifling CHF90,000 – the Mosaïque II will almost certainly end up in the high six- or even seven figures. Affordability aside, the Mosaïque II is a little more interesting than its predecessor because of the floral motif as well as the materials; the bloodstone inlays are a particularly striking backdrop for the other stones. The inlays are also more complex, with both the dial and back inlaid with stones in a mix of shapes and sizes. A Geneva museum Located along a small street in Geneva’s Old Town is the Barbier-Mueller Mus...
Fratello
Servicing An Ultra-Rare Vintage Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 “King Sub”
Vintage Rolex is a treasure trove for dedicated collectors. Within that little sub-universe, there are grail watches that stand out above the rest. Today, we are looking at one that is pretty high up on many aficionados’ lists. This is the Rolex Submariner ref. 6200, also known as the King Sub. My friends at Tempus […] Visit Servicing An Ultra-Rare Vintage Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 “King Sub” to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Best New Releases from April
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing belongs to the Treat Yourself category, which spotlights special watches worth their price tag, while the Value-Packed Pick celebrates a timepiece that provides great bang for buck. Upgrade Your Kit highlights indispensable everyday carry gadgets. When You Have Too Many Watches is all about accessories and peripherals for your watch collection. Last but not least, the Deal of the Week is a limited time bargain that you will not want to miss. Don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop Rewards Program to save and earn points with every purchase. The Windup Team is also available to schedule a consultation or demo with you to answer any questions you may have. This week, we take a moment to catch our breath and celebrate all the amazing releases this past month. April alone, even outside of Watches & Wonders, has been a fantastic month in regards to new watches, and if this is any indication for what the rest of the year brings, we couldn’t be more excited. Without further ado, here is your weekly Roundup of some of our favorites. Note: As we are hosting our Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco, please be advised that all orders placed between April 30th (after 2 pm EST) to May 6th will ship starting May 7th. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and more. Top billing bel...
Deployant
Best new watches from six of the big watchmaking maisons
Today, we focus on the grand old maisons? The big boys, so to speak Here are our top pick of six watches from the largest Swiss houses.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – 6 Highly Original or Super Technical Takes on the Regulator Watch
Despite their original display, which splits time (for most of them) between central minutes, hours in a sub-dial at 12 o’clock and seconds in a subsidiary counter at 6 o’clock, regulator watches are some of the most classic you can imagine. The origin of these régulateur is nothing fancy, it has nothing to do with […]
Quill & Pad
Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down and F.P. Journe Vagabondage I Reviewed by Tim Mosso
If you dare to compare, make it apples to apples. Ludovic Ballouard (Brittany) and François-Paul Journe (Marseille) both hail from France. Most pertinent to this comparison though is that both men designed quirky jumping-hour watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate
Japanese independent watchmaking has a particular charm, often showing a spare yet intricate way with dials and small-cased sensibility. With a few quietly released collaborative efforts, Hida-san’s main focus is on a small output of orders. Nevertheless, the 2024 releases from Naoya Hida & Co. show a more extroverted side to the brand coming through. […] Visit Introducing: The 2024 Releases From Naoya Hida - Including A Rectangular Grail Candidate to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition
Tudor has announced the release of a special FXD chronograph. The Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition commemorates the brand’s relationship with the Tudor Pro Cycling Team (a Swiss professional development road bicycle racing team that participates in the UCI Europe Tour). It should come as no surprise if this latest release from […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono Tudor Pro Cycling Team Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Petrolhead Corner – The Lotus Elan M200 Speedster Prototype You Might Have Never Heard Of Before
In the world of drop-top sports cars, there is a special type of car built for hardcore enthusiasts of the open driving experience; the Speedster. This roofless concept is made famous by cars such as the Porsche 356 and 911 Speedster, the Morgan Speedster and the Auburn Speedster. In more recent times, cars like the […]
Fratello
Breathing New Life Into A Vintage King Seiko 44-9990
Vintage King Seiko presents a fantastic opportunity for affordable options that reflect excellent watchmaking. The King Seiko 44-9990, also known as the 44KS, is one such example. Recently, I had the opportunity to acquire a King Seiko 44-9990. For many newer enthusiasts, King Seiko is a name that is more familiar in the context of […] Visit Breathing New Life Into A Vintage King Seiko 44-9990 to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The CIGA Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition
A tourbillon is less relevant now than ever. What was once advantageous in a pocket watch became less so in a wristwatch, which is naturally subject to a broader range of motion. With cheaper quartz modules outperforming all but the most accurate mechanical movements, a tourbillon remains a display of watchmaking ability and intricacy. A […] Visit Hands-On With The CIGA Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
A Technical Perspective – Understanding The Art of Guilloché Dials and Examples of Guilloché Patterns
Known under the French name Guillochage, engine turning consists of adorning wood or metal with intertwined lines. It is an engraving technique that originated over five centuries ago. Initially, it was applied to soft materials such as wood and ivory before being adapted to metals, particularly for the craft of goldsmiths and silversmiths. Allegedly first […]