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Fratello
Yuichiro Miura’s 1970 expedition to Mt. Everest was the subject of a documentary and press coverage, and it became a legend in the extreme skiing community. His companion on that adventure was the Certina DS-2 Chronolympic. It was a hardy chronograph built for adventure. There is a way of considering the world’s tallest peaks that […] Visit The Man Who Skied Down Everest With A Certina DS-2 Watch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
If you’re enthusiastic about watches, gear, and gathering with other equally enthusiastic individuals-the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco this year will be unlike any other watch event you’ve attended. We are thrilled to be returning to San Francisco, in an even more impactful way than ever. The Windup Watch Fair will be one of the first events in the newly reopened Gateway Pavilion on Pier 2 at the Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture. With stunning views of the Golden Gate Bridge, this architectural renovation is an idyllic spot to gather, meet new brands, try new products, and experience enthusiasm together. It comes complete with breakout rooms for live podcasts, special guest speakers, and enthusiast group meetups. You won’t want to miss this iconic San Francisco experience. Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Friday, May 3 – Sunday, May 5, 2024 Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason Center for Arts & Culture San Francisco, CA We will be joined by five amazing Lead Sponsors, some who are returning to San Francisco in this capacity, and others who are joining us for the first time in this position. The Lead Sponsors for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2024 are: Alpina, anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, and Oris. We couldn’t be more thrilled for this incredible line up. In addition to these fantastic Lead Sponsors, they’ll be accompanied by a full complement of your favorite watch brands from around the world. Include multiple first time newcomers to the Windup W...
Monochrome
Considered the precursor of the luxury sports watch category, the Royal Oak turned fifty in 2022. As expected, Audemars Piguet went to town to fete its icon with a host of celebratory models. However, the excitement grew when AP unveiled the first 39mm Jumbo to be fitted with an ultra-thin flying tourbillon (calibre 2968). Officially […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another Top 5! It’s time for the third installment of our mini-series focusing on pre-owned sleeper watches. In it, we want to highlight some less obvious watches from different brands. Some of these are watches you may never have heard of, while others might be good reminders of forgotten greats. In this week’s […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Sleeper Watches: Part 3 - Featuring Omega, IWC, Heuer, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train. Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time. Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...
Monochrome
Audemars Piguet reveals new models that showcase the evolutionary design introduced on the first stainless steel Code 11.59 references in 2023. To update the more subdued and widely criticized design of previous dials, a unique “signature” embossed dial pattern has been specially created for this collection, together with different hands and markers, in collaboration between […]
Fratello
Zenith presented a fully redesigned and thoroughly modernized Pilot range at Watches and Wonders last year. Although many of our team members had a chance to try them on at the fair, we had not yet done a full hands-on article on Fratello. We figured it was long overdue! So, now that there is a […] Visit Hands-On With The Zenith Pilot Automatic And Big Date Flyback Boutique Editions to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko Prospex SPB143 re-interpretation 62MAS diver has proven itself as one of Seiko's most popular modern dive watches. It's budget-conscious, durable, and captures the vintage vibes of the 62MAS while standing up to the rigors of daily use. Now, Seiko has decided to make some very small updates to the "1966 Diver’s Re-Interpretation” lineup that elevate the models in a very big way.
Teddy Baldassarre
Louis Erard is one of those Swiss watch brands that may have registered on your radar only recently - earning both enthusiast buzz and critical acclaim in the past few years thanks to its very high-profile partnerships with indie watchmakers whose own timepieces might otherwise be unattainable. How did Louis Erard, which actually traces its origins all the way back to the Great Depression, manage to finally find its niche in the 21st Century? Family Foundations Born in 1893 in La Chaux-de-Fonds, a historical hub of Swiss watchmaking, Louis Erard discovered his horological vocation early. In the early 1900s, he began plying his trade as a watchmaker for several of the town’s workshops, and in 1929 founded a watchmaking school where he served as instructor. At the same time, Erard started a watchmaking business with a partner named André Perret, originally as an “assembler” of complete timepieces for third parties using parts supplied by independent artisans. By 1931, the partnership was dissolved and Erard became a producer of watches under his own eponymous brand name. The company grew in the following decades, with Erard’s two sons, René and Jean-Louis, joining in 1945. Among the company’s milestones during this early period was helping to develop the now-legendary Valjoux 72 chronograph caliber. In 1956, Louis Erard, which still used third-party movements in its own watches, advanced to the next stage of horological prestige, starting production of it...
SJX Watches
To mark the collection’s fifth anniversary, Audemars Piguet (AP) has launched seven new variants of the Code 11.59 in pink gold that are available in both 41 mm and 38 mm cases, with the 41 mm option being available with or without a chronograph. While none of the individual elements are novel (the new models are a melange of successful elements from recent launches) the new 38 mm model in navy blue – specifically the same hue as the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 5402 ST – is one of the most appealing variants of the Code 11.59 to-date. Initial thoughts Though often considered a gateway to the brand’s most sought-after models like the Royal Oak, the Code 11.59 has quietly evolved into a full-fledged collection that now includes everything from simple time-only pieces to the grandest of grand complications. The new references reflect the updated Code 11.59 aesthetic introduced last year in stainless steel, which comprised an updated hand set and stamped guilloché dials in crowd-pleasing colours like navy blue and dark green. It is in this respect that the 38 mm model with navy blue dial that stands out. While not the first 38 mm Code 11.59, it is the first in a mainstream colourway. Combined with the more wearable size, this new variant adds significant appeal to the overall collection. The pricing of the new Code 11.59 depends on the size and the complication: the 38 mm models are priced at CHF27,500, while the 41 mm is available for extra CHF1,000 and the chronogr...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) has introduced the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked in a new proprietary 18ak gold alloy known as sand gold. Essentially a precious-metal variant of the steel version released in 2022, the new Tourbillon Openworked showcases the brand’s commitment to interesting materials – possible in part due to AP owning its own case maker. While the hype for integrated-bracelet sport watches has ebbed, AP has continued to deliver successive variants of its popular Royal Oak in exotic materials ranging from brown ceramic to frosted gold. Priced at CHF250,000, this latest variant pairs a warm-hued gold case and bracelet with one of the brand’s most modern movements. Initial thoughts Unlike its “Holy Trinity” peers Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet has firmly embraced a contemporary, architectural aesthetic throughout its collections. The new Tourbillon Openworked is emblematic of this theme, eschewing traditional decorative finishes like Côtes de Geneve in favour of minimalist graining and sharp angles. Featuring the brand’s latest generation flying tourbillon movement plated to match the case, the sand gold tourbillon presents a striking monochrome appearance. While skeletonised watches can often look fussy and chaotic, the geometric bridges of the cal. 2972 were clearly designed with openworking in mind. As a result, the overall aesthetic is clean and organised. The 41 mm case is well-proportioned at just 10.6 mm...
Fratello
Audemars Piguet is making sure its 5134 caliber gets a proper goodbye. The successor of the legendary 2120 movement is being discontinued…but not just in any watch. None other than John Mayer had the honor of coming up with one last dial and case design for a limited-edition Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. In addition to […] Visit Audemars Piguet Lays Its Cards Out For 2024 - Including A Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Big news from Seiko today, as the brand announces a follow up to their wildly popular SPB143 diver (and its many siblings). The new SPB453, SPB451, and SPB455 use the same 62MAS derived format but offer small changes in specs that make the new versions of the watch correspondingly more appealing. It’s not a revolutionary update in design or anything, but a series of small changes that should result in a better experience for just about everyone, and reinforces the idea that this watch, the “1966 Diver’s Re-Interpretation,” is the core diver in Seiko’s lineup and will be forever tinkered with in an almost Rolex kind of way. Let’s start with the big changes, which are actually quite small in a literally sense. The new references have been tidied up a bit in their dimensions and are slightly smaller in every dimension watch enthusiasts care about than their predecessors. The diameter is down half a millimeter to a clean 40mm, and the case height has been reduced to 13mm, which is a barely perceptible 0.2mm thinner than the SPB143. The lug to lug measurement is 46.4mm, which is a more noticeable 1.4mm shorter. The new case size is welcome, in my opinion. It’s not that the SPB143 wore too large or was too aggressively chunky, but for a diver like this a little extra refinement is a good thing. A skin diver style dive watch isn’t meant to be a behemoth on the wrist, but rather the ideal combination of wearability and performance for regular folks. Getting this ...
Time+Tide
With all the little nitpicks us reviewers pick up on, this has to be the ultimate WIS watch, right?The post The VPC Type 37HW shows that watch reviewers make great watch designers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
After many months in the making, the VPC Type 37HW is here, and I have the distinct pleasure of penning this hands-on introduction. We often ask ourselves, “Is it impossible to be original when endeavoring to design a new watch? Have all paths in crafting this functional object truly been taken? Have we seen it […] Visit Introducing: The VPC Type 37HW to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow explains why people are drawn to brightly colored watches. His personal opinion is that everyone should have at least one bright, colorful watch in their collection and he makes the case for why the excitement around the Tiffany Blue Nautilus is perfectly rational - because colorful watches are awesome!
Fratello
Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Today, you join Nacho, Morgan, and Thomas, who join forces to discuss a number of their watch pet peeves. The guys are feeling particularly grumpy today, so they decided to go on an extensive rant, listing some of the things watch brands do that rub them the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Pet Peeves to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Usually focused on decorative and artisanal dials made affordable, the Seiko Presage collection now turns to traditional textiles for inspiration. Comprising five models, the Presage Classic Series features textured dials in a range of discreet colours, each inspired by the textures and colours of Japanese silk. The dials are matched with a redesigned case conceived to feel thinner, along with retro-style bracelets. Initial thoughts Unusual dials inspired by Japanese culture and priced affordably are precisely the appeal of the Presage. The Classic Series carries on with this specialty. The domed, silk-texture dials set them apart from similarly-priced watches. The SPB467, for instance, appears to have a fashionable salmon dial, but the fine texturing – inspired by araigaki (or “washed persimmon”) silk – distinguishes it from the competition. The texturing is finer than most dials in the same price range. That said, there are actually two distinct dial patterns in the Classic Series (and four different colours across five references). Three are time-and-date models that are concise and elegant. The two “open heart” models, on the other hand, are not for everyone since the aperture revealing the balance wheel disrupts the aesthetics of the dial. Besides the dial, the Classic Series also features a new case design that camouflages the height of the case with curved lugs and a thinner case middle. This is matched with a vintage-style bracelet that brings to mind o...
SJX Watches
A bestseller available in several variants to date, the modern-day “62MAS” now gets a substantive upgrade with the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s Watch. The new diver is a direct successor of cal. 6R35-powered models, including the SPB143 and SPB239 of 2021. Released in two regular-production models (SPB451 and SPB453), plus a 100th anniversary special edition (SPB455), the latest Prospex “62MAS” improves on earlier models in three key areas: water resistance is now 300 m, the case is slightly more compact, and the movement is now the cal. 6R55 with a 72-hour power reserve. SPB451 Initial Thoughts As is usually the case with Prospex dive watches, the latest take on the 62MAS is robust and good looking. The new divers are safe bets as they rely on a proven formula – the classic 62MAS design with improved technical features. The SPB455 in particular stands out with its vintage-flavoured gilt accents. That said, the designs stay traditional; these are difficult to distinguish from their predecessors at a distance. A more distinctive design, perhaps with patterned dials that Seiko excels in, would have made these more compelling. SPB453 Importantly, the new trio also stays in the sub-US$1,500 price segment. Few dive watches in this price range have the same historical provenance, since Seiko was a pioneer in dive watch development. The regular production pair are only US$100 pricier than the SPB143 (and the special edition an extra US$200). The premium is easily ju...
Fratello
Casio announced the release of the new and updated Mudmaster in September of 2023. The highly anticipated new series of Mudmasters promised not only a new case construction but also some firsts in terms of functionality. We had a chance to go hands-on with two new Mudmaster GWG-B1000 models in green and red. After reviewing […] Visit Hands-On: The G-Shock Master Of G Mudmaster GWG-B1000 Is Nothing Short Of Impressive to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Not everyone has the courage to turn away from an established career, and take a risk on something that brings them joy. The watch industry is saturated with watches and watch brands focusing on every price point; from the powerhouses supported by the conglomerates they’re nestled under, to the independent and microbrands that have filled the market with innovation at a value cost, it can be hard for a new watchmaker to find their place. Sergey Chutov is an independent watchmaker that’s staking his claim, a fortress on a crowded battlefield, with pride, design, craft, and complex mechanics melting into the forge. Until 2018, Sergey worked as a civil judge in Moscow. While going about his days he often found that his mind would drift to his passions. “One day I noticed that my thoughts were more occupied with watches than with legal work,” he told me. Eventually, Sergey made the decision to change the course of his life, and set down the path to gathering more knowledge about watches. “I spent 4 years learning how to make watches and honing my skills before making my first model,” he said. That first model that Sergey is alluding to would be his Fortress I. There are currently five Fortress models that make up Sergey Chutov’s body of work. Each one with a similar DNA and evolving motif, with variations on movement, materials, and style. When I think of a “fortress” my mind goes to something cold and uninviting, but these watches, although arguably star...
Worn & Wound
“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format and intend on creating more videos just for you. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. Today’s spotlight is on the Paulin Neos, a line of everyday watches that showcase Paulin’s creative and thoughtful design. Taken at face value, the Neos are 38mm watches with slim proportions, straightforward case and bezel designs, and automatic movements. But wow, look at those dials. Undoubtedly the stars of the show, the Neo’s dials can be configured in one of four ways: silver, orange, blue, or red, and each have their distinct character. The typography is custom-designed for the watch, and the execution is excellent across the board. Check out our video below to learn more about these vibrant watches and how Paulin has positioned the Neo as a fun and practical watch. To shop the Neo and all of our Paulin watches, click here! “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful ru...
Fratello
This is the story of how one prime minister’s love of the sea connected him with a senior Rolex executive and inspired the gift of a Rolex Submariner. That prime minister, Harold Holt, was the leader of Australia at the height of the Cold War. His mysterious disappearance shocked the world. On Sunday, December 17th, […] Visit The Rolex Submariner, The “007 Prime Minister,” And A Cold War Mystery to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Milestones are a common reason (or excuse) for collectors to buy new watches. Jason Kelce had the best excuse of them all for his commissioned Rolex.The post Jason Kelce’s retirement Rolex has a meaningful backstory appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The vintage Carrera Sunray DX is one of perhaps a dozen given to racing team members in the '60s.
Teddy Baldassarre
Once a relative rarity, ceramics have today been firmly established as go-to materials in the luxury watch industry, alongside traditional metals such as gold, steel, and titanium. But no single watchmaker is more associated with ceramics in the horological realm than Rado, which has not only made the tough, scratchproof, hypoallergenic material a core part of its identity but continues to pioneer new frontiers in what can be done with it. Here’s the story behind Rado’s host of technical innovations, from early “hardmetal” alloys to today’s signature high-tech ceramic, and how two of the brand’s milestones from 1962 have become inextricably linked in the modern era. From DiaStar to Diver's Watch Rado was founded in 1917 by brothers Fritz, Ernst, and Werner Schlup, who converted their parents’ home in Lengnau, in the Swiss canton of Bern, into a watch factory. Originally dubbed Schlup & Co.,the family firm started out making movements, becoming an important supplier during the World War II years. Forty years after its foundation, in 1957, the company launched the Rado watch brand, taking its name from the Esperanto word for “wheel.” The very first timepiece made under the new Rado banner was the Golden Horse (modern tribute model above), which was also one of the first wristwatches marketed with an emphasis on its antimagnetic properties. It was the harbinger of the technical innovation that the company would adopt as part of its stock-in-trade going forwa...
SJX Watches
First seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig late last year, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” is now official. Dial aside, it’s identical to the standard Moonwatch with the cal. 3861. The new Speedmaster is regular production and priced almost exactly the same as the standard model. Initial thoughts The new Speedmaster is only a dial variant of the familiar Moonwatch in black. It isn’t substantively novel, though it is notable for being regular production. Historically, Speedmasters with white or silver dials have been either limited editions, like the Alaska Project, or in precious metal, like the model in Canopus gold. The watch itself, however, is executed well. The lacquered dial is slightly glossy and matched with black-coated hands and markers, with the red “Speedmaster” giving it colour. For only US$100 more than the regular model – which is iconic but also common – this is certainly a compelling alternative. White, red, and black The new Speedmaster features a dial with a lacquered finish that gives it a smooth, glossy surface. According to Omega, this is the first Moonwatch with a lacquered dial. Though the finish is different, the dial retains all of the details that characterise the Moonwatch dial, including the step on its perimeter and recessed registers with concentric graining. The hands and applied markers also retain the same classic design, but are finished with a black coating for legibility. Notably, the sta...
Monochrome
You’ve probably already seen that watch… But up until today, it was not officially there. For decades, besides special and limited editions, the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in stainless steel has primarily flaunted a black dial watch. Yet, at an event hosted by Omega in November last year, Daniel Craig, whom we are more accustomed to […]
Fratello
It was a long wait for many of you (and us), but here it is - the new Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. We had the opportunity to go hands-on with this new white-dial Speedmaster, which was first seen on Daniel Craig’s wrist last November. The white-dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig” At first, people thought it […] Visit Hands-On With The White-Dial Omega Speedmaster “Daniel Craig” to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 1861 in Schramberg, Germany, Junghans was once the largest clock manufacturer in the world, renowned by many for Max Bill’s famous Bauhaus kitchen clock. Moving from clocks to more specialised timing devices, Junghans produced everything from flight instruments to speedometers and from pilot’s watches to chronometers and chronographs, without forgetting the brand’s role […]
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