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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary with a Quintet of New Releases, and a Bracelet with a Frequently Requested Feature Worn & Wound
Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary Apr 14, 2023

Norqain Celebrates their Fifth Anniversary with a Quintet of New Releases, and a Bracelet with a Frequently Requested Feature

Norqain is celebrating their fifth anniversary this week with the release of five all new watches in the Independence collection. Five years is an interesting marker to consider. It’s both an impressive accomplishment for any new brand to stick around for that long – we can all point to small, upstart brands that have come and gone in much less time. But it’s also a vanishingly short period in the grand scheme of watchmaking, where the most durable brands have had literal centuries to build their identities. All the more impressive for Norqain then, as they’ve carved out an aesthetic that is immediately recognizable, and have made a ton of progress in developing a culture around their watches that focuses on a new generation of collectors. All of the new anniversary pieces seem to be born out of those ideas, and continue to iterate on what is now a well established design language.  The new watches breakdown as follows: we have two new Independence Skeleton references in 42mm cases, one DLC coated, the other with blue accents; two Independence 40mm pieces, one with a brown gradient dial, the other with a green gradient dial; and a new reference aimed at the female market, an Independence 40mm with a mint mother-of-pearl dial and diamond accents.  The Independence Skeleton watches are follow ups to earlier skeleton releases dating back over the last two years. The DLC coated version has red gold plated hands and applied hour markers, while the non-coated version f...

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera Worn & Wound
Formex Essence Leggera Apr 14, 2023

[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: The Formex Essence Leggera

A big part of the appeal of micro-brands* rests in their ability to exercise a greater level of general creativity to bring a specific vision to life, something we’ve always found value in around here. We’ve seen some pretty sophisticated stuff take shape, from unique hand sets and dials, to wandering hours and composite cases. One brand in particular has proven rather adept at implementing what I have no issues calling exotic engineering solutions to their watches, and that brand is Formex. With “roots in high-end watch manufacturing” that should come as no surprise, and while the brand’s own aesthetic has undergone some pretty wild transitions, they seem to have landed in a cohesive space with their latest generations of watches in the Essence, Reef, and Field collections.  *Okay, Formex isn’t exactly a micro-brand. They are attached to that noted “high-end watch manufacturer” in a way that very, very few brands (large or small) are. This allows them access to engineer solutions for things like quick adjustment mechanisms in a manner that almost zero micro-brands can. Formex is a small (but not really) manufacturer that produces their own watches, which take full advantage of that fact. The micro-brand or small-independent nomenclature doesn’t neatly apply here, but given the price points that Formex tends to play in, I view them along the same lines as more traditional micro-brands the likes of which we frequently discuss around here. $1790 [VIDEO] Ow...

Make it Memorable: A Spring-themed Graduation Gift Guide with NOMOS Worn & Wound
Nomos There are Apr 14, 2023

Make it Memorable: A Spring-themed Graduation Gift Guide with NOMOS

There are a few moments in life worth commemorating with a gift set that combines timeless tools and fun-infused usefulness. One of these is upon us, as spring signals the tossing of winter coats and also graduation caps for many students. The moment we laid eyes on the new dial colorways of the beloved NOMOS Club Campus, we were immediately inspired to curate a spring-themed collection of giftable gear for that upcoming graduate. These gifts are that blend of form, function, and fun that make them endlessly useful, yet totally on trend, all at once. The new NOMOS Club Campus models for 2023 come in two new dial colors, ideal for accompanying those springtime life moments. Shown here, we see the Club Campus 38 electric green with a 38mm case, as well as its cream coral counterpart with a versatile 36mm diameter. Both eye-catching timepieces sport the part-Arabic/part-Roman California dial setup that the Club Campus has become known for. These minimalist, mechanical marvels strike that ideal balance between premium and practical. With 100 meters of water resistance, a domed sapphire crystal, and a wrist-hugging 8.2mm case height, the Club Campus fits squarely into that go-anywhere, do-anything category. Not to mention, an engravable caseback can make this gift even more memorable. PURCHASE NOW The post Make it Memorable: A Spring-themed Graduation Gift Guide with NOMOS appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Insight: The Ingenuity of the F.P. Journe Centigraphe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Centigraphe Modern mechanical chronograph Apr 14, 2023

Insight: The Ingenuity of the F.P. Journe Centigraphe

Modern mechanical chronograph movements have mostly been conceived according to two standardised recipes. One is the vertical clutch approach exemplified by the the sporty, performance oriented cal. 4131 inside the Rolex Daytona, while the other is the classical, lateral coupling architecture used by the celebrated L951.1 in the Lange Datograph. Sticking with a successful architecture is no bad thing, after all, chronographs are complicated enough in their basic form. However, there are some chronographs that stand out for being truly original, like the F.P. Journe Centigraphe and its cal. 1506. Constructed like no other chronograph on the market, the Centigraphe seeks to measure times with a resolution of 1/100th of a second with a unique movement that is modern in its approach yet subtly references the work of John Harrison. In many ways it encapsulates the philosophy of François-Paul Journe, which prizes original, creative watchmaking that pays tribute to historical greats. The cal. 1506 Despite its achievements, the Centigraphe is overshadowed by the brand’s signature watches, namely the Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain, and remains one of of F.P. Journe’s less-known offerings. Paradoxically, the Centigraphe should be more recognised than most other F.P. Journe watches because has a tangible link to the world of celebrity with its Formula 1 provenance, having been conceived at the suggestion of Jean Todt, the former boss of Ferrari’s Formula 1 team. Although...

Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Time Zone Chronograph Worn & Wound
Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Apr 13, 2023

Timex Q Gets Unusual Three Time Zone Chronograph

The wildly popular Timex Q collection welcomes a new, more complicated family this week with the introduction of the Q Three Time Zone Chronograph. The new watch brings a new level of practicality to the 40mm integrated frame with the addition of a 24 hour hand, a 12 hour bezel, and two adjustable hour hands. It might be called the Three Time Zone watch, but thanks to that 12 hour rotating bezel, you could actually track 5 if you really needed to. Timex is encouraging you to hit the open road with this watch, and it’s easy to see why, but we’ve still got a few questions about this one.  At a glance, this Timex Q looks to be a pretty straightforward GMT equipped chronograph, not an entirely uncommon function grouping for a quartz module. But the closer you look, the more odd details you’ll begin to notice. Is that second hour hand a GMT hand? If so, why is the bezel a 12 hour unit? There is no am/pm indication in sight, and Timex refers to that hand simply as the “2nd hour hand”. Closer still and you’ll notice that the 24 hour is actually located in the sub dial at 12 o’clock. This is an independently adjustable 24 hour hand that can be used to track home time, while the 1st and second hour hands can track local, and local adjacent (again, no am/pm indication) time zones against the circular hour markers, and a twist of the 12 hour bezel will even let you track an additional two. That’s 5 total by my count, though I’m not sure how practical doing so would...

The Antikythera Mechanism: Predicting Astronomical Positions and Eclipses 2,000 Years Ago (Video) Quill & Pad
Apr 13, 2023

The Antikythera Mechanism: Predicting Astronomical Positions and Eclipses 2,000 Years Ago (Video)

The Antikythera mechanism is an Ancient Greek orrery over 2,000 years old. It is the oldest known example of an analog computer and was used to predict astronomical positions and eclipses decades in advance. Spencer Connor is an engineer who decided to make a modernized reproduction of the Antikythera mechanism. In this video, he explains just how special the intricate clockwork was for its day, and just how complex it is to track the obits of our moon and the planets around the sun.

Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph Time+Tide
Hermes Apr 13, 2023

Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph

The new Hermès H08 watches experiment with composite case materials Include exciting design features in a surprisingly smooth package We also get a preview of the Monopusher Chronograph model to be released in 2024 Creating a contemporary sports watch design that’s totally unique isn’t easy, especially when you want to keep it aesthetically accessible to … ContinuedThe post Hermès spices up the H08 collection with new colours, composite cases and a monopusher chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Conversation with Simon Brette on the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription That Launches his Brand Revolution
Simon Brette Apr 12, 2023

In Conversation with Simon Brette on the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription That Launches his Brand

The name Simon Brette might be unfamiliar to most, but the 35-year-old watchmaker has spent a decade behind the scenes at some of the most creative independent watch companies in Switzerland. In 2021, he decided to start a business that is centered on independent artisans, with himself as the movement designer. The Chronomètre Artisans Souscription […]

Highlights from the Drop: A new batch of Omegas from Wind Vintage Worn & Wound
Omega s from Wind Vintage Apr 12, 2023

Highlights from the Drop: A new batch of Omegas from Wind Vintage

Welcome to Highlights From The Drop. You read that right. This week, it’s Highlights from the Drop as we just received a new drop of Vintage Omega Constellations and Seamasters from Wind Vintage. Join Shop Manager Ricardo as he pulls three of his favorites from this batch and why he feels they stand out. Welcome to Highlights From The Drop. You read that right. This week, it’s Highlights from the Drop as we just received a new drop of Vintage Omega Constellations and Seamasters from Wind Vintage. Join Shop Manager Ricardo as he pulls three of his favorites from this batch and why he feels they stand out. The post Highlights from the Drop: A new batch of Omegas from Wind Vintage appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race Time+Tide
Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Apr 12, 2023

The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race

Norqain is now the official timekeeper of the Zürich Marathon The Zürich Marathon is celebrating its 20th anniversary The 20 Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition watches feature a dial with a map of Zürich and the marathon track Norqain is a watch brand that refuses to sit still, and understandably so. Considering the brand … ContinuedThe post The new Norqain Wild One Zürich Marathon Limited Edition celebrates the 20th anniversary of the race appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Autodromo Group B Welcomes All-New Rallysport Chronograph Worn & Wound
Apr 11, 2023

The Autodromo Group B Welcomes All-New Rallysport Chronograph

The Autodromo Group B is something of a modern legend around here. It’s a watch that works on every level, from concept to execution, and it remains one of the most compelling micro-brand/small independent offerings even now, 8 years after its initial release (particularly in Night Stage form, if you ask me). The Group B has always been a time-only three-hander, but that changes this week with the introduction of a new kind of Group B, a manually wound chronograph kind of Group B. Released in a range of five unique colorways exclusively through the Hodinkee Shop, the new watches are as bright and vivacious as the cars that inspired them.  The Group B takes inspiration, and indeed its name, from the short lived racing series from the ‘80s, which birthed some of the all-time great racing cars and their homologated road cars. The new Group B Chronograph watches reflect details and colors seen in and on the cars of that era, bringing bright hits of primary colors to the dials and hands that feel authentic to the subject matter without betraying anything too specific. Because of that, these watches should land pretty well even for folks unfamiliar with, or uninterested in, the racing tie in. There’s even a Hodinkee specific colorway, the H01, that applies subtle shades of green for a more subdued look. One of the many things that make time-only Group B so great are its impeccable dimensions. The 39mm titanium and steel case measures 39mm in diameter, and a scant 9mm in t...

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case Worn & Wound
IWC s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Apr 11, 2023

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case

In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status.  What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment.  First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...

With the new Tudor Black Bay 41 and Black Bay 54, is the BB58 in danger of becoming obsolete? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 41 Apr 11, 2023

With the new Tudor Black Bay 41 and Black Bay 54, is the BB58 in danger of becoming obsolete?

The response to the new Tudor Black Bay 54 has been massive, with many on our Instagram dubbing it the release of the fair and, on my end, making it onto my top five favourite releases of Watches & Wonders 23. But that was not the only fan-certified win from Tudor this year. The slimmer … ContinuedThe post With the new Tudor Black Bay 41 and Black Bay 54, is the BB58 in danger of becoming obsolete? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Conversation with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele on the Art and Science of Ferdinand Berthoud Revolution
Chopard has always had Apr 11, 2023

In Conversation with Karl-Friedrich Scheufele on the Art and Science of Ferdinand Berthoud

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, has always had a deep appreciation for the art, science and history of horology. This passion drove him to revive a long forgotten name from the annals of watchmaking, the 18th-century Clockmaker-Mechanic to King Louis XV and the French Navy, Ferdinand Berthoud. Berthoud’s extraordinarily precise marine chronometers built his reputation […]

Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet Worn & Wound
Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Apr 10, 2023

Zodiac Unveils their Most Colorful Super Sea Wolf Yet

Over the last few years, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf has generated a head of steam in the collector community, becoming an unlikely talking point among enthusiasts as new iterations have been released at a fast clip. These watches have a common thread in that they all pay a certain amount of respect to classic vintage designs, but Zodiac has been extremely willing to play with color, and that’s been a large part of their success with this line in the recent past. Across both limited editions and releases in the permanent collection, Zodiac has proven that they aren’t afraid to experiment, and that exclusively creating sober dive watches without much of a personality is of little interest to them. This new release, then, feels like the culmination of what we’ve seen in Zodiac’s recent strategy, with what might be their most colorful watch yet, which ironically doesn’t even have a traditional dial.  The new Super Sea Wolf Compression Skeleton prominently features the STP 6-15 automatic movement, plainly visible from the dial side. This is the first time we can recall Zodiac using a skeleton design in a modern context, and certainly within their dive watch line, so it speaks to their confidence in and pride in the STP caliber that they’d be willing to show it off in such a way. STP, of course, is Fossil owned movement manufacture that is a sister brand to Zodiac, and has played a large role in outfitting their recent releases with high quality, competitively priced...

The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Apr 10, 2023

The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin drops an incredible one-of-one reference from its Les Cabinotiers collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 The Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication is a two-dialled expression of the pinnacle of Vacheron’s craft No less than 774 components make up the elaborate movement that boasts 11 complications It’s hard to overstate the level of … ContinuedThe post The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now Time+Tide
Apr 10, 2023

The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now

Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant more hits from Chopard Apr 9, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed

Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu” Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu” Apr 9, 2023

Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu”

Welcome to Highlights From The Shop. In this new series, we’re going to focus on watches in the Windup Shop that we feel deserve more attention. Whether it’s due to a constantly changing news cycle or hundreds of watches being released throughout the year, these watches had a short lifespan at the top of your feed. Whatever the cause, this is our chance to revisit some great watches you may have missed. Welcome to Highlights From The Shop. In this new series, we’re going to focus on watches in the Windup Shop that we feel deserve more attention. Whether it’s due to a constantly changing news cycle or hundreds of watches being released throughout the year, these watches had a short lifespan at the top of your feed. Whatever the cause, this is our chance to revisit some great watches you may have missed. The post Highlights From The Shop: The Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic “Fugu” appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Zach’s top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (Live Pics) Time+Tide
Apr 9, 2023

Zach’s top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (Live Pics)

Last year during the fair, Andrew and I were able to find the time to sit down and share our top five picks on camera in a full feature-length video. Unfortunately, this year at Watches & Wonders, our schedule was so jam-packed we were unable to find a spare half hour to film a sequel. … ContinuedThe post Zach’s top five watches from Watches & Wonders 2023 (Live Pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Zenith Defy Revival Shadow cuts a super-spy profile Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Revival Shadow cuts Apr 8, 2023

The Zenith Defy Revival Shadow cuts a super-spy profile

Zenith introduces a striking new reinterpretation of the historic Defy Revival for Watches & Wonders 2023. An evolution of the vintage look of previous editions, the Shadow boasts full lightweight titanium construction for both the case and bracelet. The titanium gets a microblasted matte finish that renders the material a stealthy dark grey. I’ve been … ContinuedThe post The Zenith Defy Revival Shadow cuts a super-spy profile appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Watches of Hit HBO Series ‘Succession’, Two More Paul Newman Daytonas Discovered, The A-Tech Multi-Tool Keychain, & More Worn & Wound
Rolex all Apr 8, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Watches of Hit HBO Series ‘Succession’, Two More Paul Newman Daytonas Discovered, The A-Tech Multi-Tool Keychain, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Esquire Talking Watches With Succession’s Prop Master Monica Jacobs Via Esquire In one of the most recent Succession episodes, hearing Kendall Roy describe their new media-venture called The Hundred as, “Substack meets Masterclass meets the Economist meets the New Yorker.” remains as one of the many chuckle-worthy lines we’ve heard during this season thus far. Almost every character is capable of delivering such a line, especially Roman Roy, Tom Wambsgans and Greg Hirsch. Especially Greg. But in addition to the witty writing and awesome plot, as watch enthusiasts, it’s hard not to pay attention to what’s on the wrists of our favorite characters. Via Esquire In a recent Esquire interview, Prop Master Monica Jacobs spills all the details as to how some of these very particular, highly-specific watches made their way onto the show. The interview also digs into how each watch is chosen and how the character’s personality is reflected upon the watch they wear. For example, why does Roman Roy wear Rolex all the time, and what’s with Logan Roy sticking wi...

Why watch puns tick me off Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2023

Why watch puns tick me off

In the world of horological journalism, where centuries-old companies lord over a multi-billion dollar industry and push the boundaries of mechanical engineering and art simultaneously, it’s pretty much considered a crime to write a pun into your articles. If you ask me, it’s a total waste of time. Most writers would never stoop that low, … ContinuedThe post Why watch puns tick me off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.