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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Why lug-to-lug matters more than diameter (and how to actually pick a watch that fits)

Diameter is the number every product page leads with. lug-to-lug is the number that decides whether the watch stays on your wrist. a tour through the WristBuzz watch dimensions database.

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna SJX Watches
May 25, 2023

Andreas Strehler Introduces the Strehler Sirna

Accomplished but relatively low key, Andreas Strehler is launching a new brand known simply as Strehler, which aims to reach a wider audience with more accessible prices. Mr. Strehler’s stated aim of the Sirna is to offer collectors a simple daily wearer that embodies the technical mastery he has become known for. The brand’s opening act is the Sirna, named after the town of Sirnach in northeastern Switzerland where the manufacture is based. Strehler marks a departure from Mr. Strehler’s previous work in terms of aesthetics. While his earlier (and pricier) creations emphasised his distinctive papillon, or “butterfly”, movement architecture and resulting cushion-shaped case, the Sirna is more traditional in form. It is a strong debut for the new brand and a sign of good things to come. Initial thoughts I’ve always admired Mr Strehler’s watches from an intellectual standpoint, but his cushion-cased designs have never resonated with me on an aesthetic level. Naturally, I am thrilled to see Mr. Strehler’s work arrive in a more traditionally-styled package. The Sirna appears to exudes quality – unsurprising given Mr Strehler’s reputation for good work. It’s enough of a reputation that other independent watchmakers turn to him for components and movements (more on that below). Even obscure details like the engravings on the case back look to be satisfyingly crisp and precise. And the patterned titanium dial is the star, though deceptively simple in style, i...

5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week Time+Tide
Rolex Daytonas May 25, 2023

5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week

Watch auctions are typically associated with record-breaking prices and incredible amounts of money spent on coveted collectables. During my visit to Sotheby’s Upper East Side headquarters, I saw plenty of lots primed to go for six, seven, dare I say eight figures – such as the two Paul Newman-owned Rolex Daytonas that the auction house … ContinuedThe post 5 sleeper picks from the upcoming Sotheby’s Fine Watches auction starting next week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years - Reprise Quill & Pad
May 25, 2023

Graf von Faber-Castell Pen of the Year 2022 . . . Plus Five More from Previous Years - Reprise

Faber-Castell introduced its first Pen of the Year in 2003 and has annually introduced a limited edition pen with a very specific theme ever since. Each tells the tale of a person, a place, or an era that helped “shape the development of humanity,” according to the company. The Pen of the Year 2022 is inspired by the influential Aztec civilization.

Two Rolex Daytonas owned by Paul Newman and a full-set Comex Sea-Dweller headline Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on June 9 Time+Tide
Rolex Daytonas owned May 25, 2023

Two Rolex Daytonas owned by Paul Newman and a full-set Comex Sea-Dweller headline Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on June 9

Some people think you need to wait for Watches & Wonders to see new watches, but this June in New York, there are dozens of pieces seeing the light of day for the first time in decades. Over at Sotheby’s New York, two auctions are bringing out some heavy-hitting heroes. In the Important Watches Sale … ContinuedThe post Two Rolex Daytonas owned by Paul Newman and a full-set Comex Sea-Dweller headline Sotheby’s Important Watches auction on June 9 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Casio G-Shock G-Squad is the perfect remake of a 40-year-old legend Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock G-Squad May 24, 2023

The Casio G-Shock G-Squad is the perfect remake of a 40-year-old legend

If you’re into cars, you’ll be familiar with the old adage that every petrolhead needs to own an Alfa Romeo at some point in their life. The same can be said for watch enthusiasts and G-Shocks – though for vastly different reasons. Where Alfas are known to be the automobile equivalent of passionate flings – … ContinuedThe post The Casio G-Shock G-Squad is the perfect remake of a 40-year-old legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Photo Report: Porsche and Watch Spotting at Rally Point East’s Third Annual Porscheast Worn & Wound
May 24, 2023

Photo Report: Porsche and Watch Spotting at Rally Point East’s Third Annual Porscheast

The beauty of collecting is that it can totally be specific to you. There isn’t a right or wrong way of doing it. Just pick your lane, whether that be enjoying your collective interests from a thirty thousand foot view above or really getting into the niche weeds, and stick with it. Or not! Again, that’s the beauty of it all – you can zig and zag. Porsche enthusiasts know this all too well. One Porsche enthusiast can enjoy the brand for what it is; a powerful piece of German engineering known for its precise-handling, longevity and entertaining driving experience. You can also meet another Porsche enthusiast that can be hyper focused into one little definitive area of the brand whose interest can oftentimes spark a spirited debate with another fellow Porsche compatriot with a conflicting keenness. Vintage versus Modern. Air-Cooled versus Water-Cooled. 959 versus 964 (insert any other Porsche model debate here). Stock versus Mod. So on and so forth. However despite the differences, it’s the deep enthusiasm that binds everyone together. Top. Down. A couple of weekends ago, Rally Point East hosted their third annual Porscheast event, bringing together all sorts of enthusiasts and radical Porsches alike. Situated in Westhampton Beach, Rally Point East is an automotive club that provides a space for like-minded individuals to gather and talk about all things cars and other adjacent interests. The club offers a suite of perks to its members not limited to vehicle storage...

The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis - Now In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Fortis Now May 24, 2023

The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis - Now In The Windup Watch Shop

A few years off of their successful revamp of the brand, Fortis has refreshed their lineup of modern pilot’s watches with colorful new dials, and we’re thrilled to offer them in the Windup Watch Shop. The traditional flieger DNA is strong within the lineup, but modern construction and design choices make these  watches an excellent option for those who want a fresh take on the pilot’s watch with the conveniences of modern construction. Meant to accommodate a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences, the Flieger is offered in both 39mm and 41mm. A few years off of their successful revamp of the brand, Fortis has refreshed their lineup of modern pilot’s watches with colorful new dials, and we’re thrilled to offer them in the Windup Watch Shop. The traditional flieger DNA is strong within the lineup, but modern construction and design choices make these  watches an excellent option for those who want a fresh take on the pilot’s watch with the conveniences of modern construction. Meant to accommodate a wide range of wrist sizes and preferences, the Flieger is offered in both 39mm and 41mm. The post The F-39 and F-41 Flieger Collection From Fortis – Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Auction Watch: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I Sells For US$924,000 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 24, 2023

Auction Watch: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I Sells For US$924,000

One of the most anticipated watches by an independent watchmaker to go under the hammer this season has set a record: the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCCI) in pink gold sold at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction for HK$7.24 million including fees, equivalent to US$924,000. Notable for being in an ordinary, as opposed to charity, auction, the result of almost US$1.0 million puts its maker, the founder of Akrivia, in rarefied company alongside the likes of F.P. Journe, the only other independent watchmakers whose time-only watches can sell for such sums. The RRCCI that just sold was the first example of the model to emerge at auction, with only one other example having sold on the secondary market but privately. With the watch already sold out and a long waiting list for its successor, the RRCCII, there were high expectations for the watch at Phillips, which originally retailed for under US$70,000. Everyone’s on it The excitement as the lot came up was palpable. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented that so many bidders were phoning in that every Phillips employee on the phone bank was on the line. Although there were at least a half dozen bidders to start with – all on the phone save for one room bidder – the contenders thinned out at the HK$4.00 million mark. Remaining were just three bidders: Alex Ghotbi and Tiffany To of Phillips on the phones with clients, and the gentleman at the back of the room. Both based in Geneva, Mr Ghotbi and Ms To were presumably re...

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso Stories” in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Stories” May 24, 2023

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre “Reverso Stories” in Singapore

Tracing the evolution of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s trademark watch, Reverso Stories will soon open at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. Admission is free but registration is required to attend. The exhibition starts with the Reverso’s origins in 1931 as a sports watch and culminates with the highly complicated models of the present day. A curated selection of vintage and contemporary pieces will be on show to illustrate the versatility and timeless nature of the iconic design.  Among the highlights are the latest watches just unveiled at Watches & Wonders in March, including the Reverso Tribute Chronograph. But the highlight is the Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque, a grand complication boasting four faces and a movement with over 800 components. The exhibition will also feature Origin, a multimedia artwork by Korean artist Yiyun Kang, who serves as one of the brand’s artistic collaborators. Relying on projection mapping, her installation introduces another dimension to the exhibition. And of course the exhibition venue includes the 1931 Café where drinks are served in an Art Deco setting. Yiyun Kang The Art Deco-inspired 1931 Café Reverso Stories takes place from June 1-8, 2023 at the Marina Sands Bay Plaza. It is open to the public daily from 11:00 am-8:00 pm. Admission is free, but registration is required to attend.  Marina Bay Sands B2M-240 2 Bayfront Ave Singapore 018972 To register, visit jaegerlecoultre.com.  

Nomos Honors 175 Years of Glashütte Watchmaking with Orion Trio Worn & Wound
Nomos Honors 175 Years May 23, 2023

Nomos Honors 175 Years of Glashütte Watchmaking with Orion Trio

Nomos has been a staple of consistency in recent years, tweaking their finely honed collections to further degrees of refinement. Nowhere is that more apparent than in this latest trio of limited edition Orion watches, which represent a nod to 175 years of watchmaking in the German town of Glashütte. The new Orion watches are as subtle as they are beautiful, with plenty of joy to discover in the sparingly deployed details. Subtlety is the name of the game here, and Nomos does this better than just about anyone, with the Orion serving as the perfect platform not only for this concept, but also historic watches crafted by young watchmakers looking to make a mark, not only for themselves, but for the town of Glashütte. As watchmaking apprentices in Glashütte would complete their training, a final project watch would be built to showcase their finely tuned skills at that point. These were anything but practice watches, they were built to “demonstrate the full breadth and depth of their skill”. It is here that Nomos has derived inspiration for this trio of Orion watches, which showcase their own set of unique details that reflect the pride of watchmaking in Glashütte. The Orion watches that celebrate 175 years of Glashütte watchmaking are, naturally, limited to 175 pieces each. They are the Orion neomatik, Orion neomatik 39 and Orion neomatik 41 date, collectively. Each boast silver plated, domed dials with gold indices for an incredibly subtle but chic look. In a firs...

VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Roma May 23, 2023

VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs

The Roman Jeweler of Time is home to many wonderful creations, but, due to the success and milestone records broken within the collection, much of the Bulgari conversation these days revolves around the Octo Finissimo. This year, Bulgari decided they were not having that. It was time to give the OG Octo Roma its due … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS Worn & Wound
May 22, 2023

Hands-On: The Peculiar Timeless HMS

One of the things I love seeing in young watch brands is a strong, original point of view. There is no shortage of great, simple tool and sport watches available from brands new and old, making the space quite difficult to stake a new claim within. Getting off that well trodden path offers the opportunity to explore and express new ideas and flesh out off-genre watches in a manner that grants a new brand some breathing room. This is exactly what the brand Timeless has done with their latest watch, the HMS. This is a watch that defies simple categorization, yet feels genuinely approachable. Timeless has taken a big swing with the HMS, and while it doesn’t connect on every level, there’s plenty to enjoy in the point of view being expressed.  The concept of the HMS was revealed in late 2020, and would go on to take shape over the following year, catching our attention along the way. The HMS is an immediately striking watch that eschews typical genre codes we generally expect to see, and while it struggles to balance the somewhat disparate elements, there’s some genuine charm to the underlying concept that feels rather refreshing. In the short time since its release, the HMS has already taken evolutionary steps, and what we have here is the HMS ref. 003. The HMS is a bit of an eyeful at a glance, with no clear focal point emerging between the ornate detailed structures that comprise the lugs, the case, and the dial, with each of those areas offering plenty of details to...

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back Time+Tide
Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship May 22, 2023

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back

J.N. Shapiro introduces the first handmade mechanical watch “Made in America” since 1969 The Resurgence is a love letter to handmade watchmaking, offering a layered guilloché dial, engine-turned mid-case, and damaskeening on the bridges Options are plentiful, making each Resurgence unique to its owner Whenever we talk about the ultra-high end of horology, the discussion … ContinuedThe post The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO May 22, 2023

Business News: Audemars Piguet Names Ilaria Resta CEO

Ending months of speculation, Audemars Piguet (AP) has finally filled the role of chief executive officer after outgoing boss Francois-Henry Bennahmias revealed his intention to depart last year. The Le Brassus watchmaker famous for the Royal Oak just announced that the top job will go to Ilaria Resta, formerly the president at a privately-held fragrances giant headquartered in Geneva. According to the announcement, Ms Resta joins AP in August this year and officially assumes the chief executive role on January 1, 2024. Mr Bennahmias will remain to assist with the transition until the end of 2023. A thirty-year veteran of the brand, the flamboyant Mr Bennahmias quadrupled AP’s annual revenue during his tenure, with its sales last year hitting the CHF2 billion mark. His successor’s résumé, however, suggests the board might be looking for someone who understands branding on a global and mass-market scale. With a long and accomplished career in fast-moving consumer goods, Ms Resta’s background is unusual for the leader of a major luxury watch brand. She was most recently President of Global Perfumery & Beauty President at Firmenich, a Swiss firm that is one of the world’s largest fragrances companies and, like AP, family controlled. For over two decades until 2020, Ms Resta held a range of roles at Procter & Gamble, covering sectors ranging from laundry to hair care. “Her proven record of delivering results through a clear strategic thinking based on deep consumer...

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969 Worn & Wound
Hamilton watches rolled off May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Launches the Resurgence, the First U.S. Made Mechanical Watch Since 1969

It’s not hyperbole to say that this is an historic day in American watchmaking history. J.N. Shapiro, the California based indie known primarily for their beautiful engine turned dials, has announced a new American made watch. According to the brand, this is the first mechanical watch that can be accurately described as “Made in America” since 1969, when the last American made Hamilton watches rolled off the production line. It’s a big deal, and a big step for a watchmaker that has been very much on the rise in recent years, taking on more complex production challenges with every new release. From dials, to cases, to movements, Shapiro can now claim a watch where virtually every component is made in a single workshop.  The watch, which Shapiro has dubbed the Resurgence, is the culmination of 12 years of learned experience among Shapiro and his team. At a glance, it has all of the aesthetic hallmarks of any Shapiro watch. A highly detailed multi level dial, for one, accented with intricate engine turning that has become Shapiro’s hallmark. What sets this watch apart, though, is the movement, which is not only beautiful to look at, with healthy doses of anglage, bridges with a distinct Damaskeening pattern (the American equivalent of Côtes de Genève), and rounded spokes on the caliber’s wheels, but has been designed and fabricated entirely in the United States. Shapiro produced his first movement prototypes in 2019, and that has led to the caliber at work in t...

MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century Time+Tide
Blancpain skin divers offered May 22, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century

For those who were into scuba diving in the 1960s/70s and did not care for the professional-grade dive watches from Rolex and Blancpain, skin divers offered a more wearable and equally cool horological experience. Skin divers got their name from the fact that they were meant to be worn directly on the skin and not … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces May 22, 2023

Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong

Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...

The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks Worn & Wound
May 21, 2023

The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The post The Roundup: Dive Down, Dress Up, or Light The Path With This Week’s Picks appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Bremont testing instrument turned watch May 21, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 50: Omega’s Got the Whole World in their Hands

We’re up to episode 50 of A Week in Watches! This week we’ve got several new releases with little in common other than being new. That’s fine by us though. First up is the brutal Ollech & Wajs 8001, their first integrated bracelet sports watch in 50 years. Then we have a Bremont testing instrument turned watch. After, we check out two new offerings from Aera, one in blue the other in gray. And finally, Omega dropped some new Aquaterra worldtimers that are worth knowing about. This week’s episode is sponsored by Whatnot, a live-stream auction app where you can buy and sell unique items. Come join the Windup Watch Shop for their first stream on Tuesday, April 23rd at 5PM Eastern, where they will be showing and selling various items from the shop. Follow this link to sign up for Whatnot and get $15 in credit toward your first purchase. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 50: Omega’s Got the Whole World in their Hands appeared first on Worn & Wound.

WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? Time+Tide
Rolex waitlists? If you ask May 21, 2023

WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists?

If you ask the average person to name a watch brand, they’ll most likely say Rolex. Such is the power of the company which arguably perfected the sports watch, and also transformed wristwatch marketing methods with memorable campaigns and endorsements. In terms of pure dollars, Rolex dominate the Swiss watch industry as well, with US$9.7B … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… There were no more Rolex waitlists? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King - Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus May 21, 2023

Why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is King - Reprise

After reading article after article discussing the virtues of Patek Philippe's Nautilus, it became clear to watch enthusiast and Quill & Pad reader Perry Heim that none stated a self-evident truth that appears obvious to him. In this "letter to the editor" Perry explains in detail what he finds so appealing about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711. And he stacks the Nautilus up against some serious contemporary contenders.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens Worn & Wound
May 20, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Digital Meets Analog with the Teenage Engineering TP-7, Quite Carry Premieres The Drift Large Contoured, & the Svelte Voigtländer Ultron 27mm Prime Lens

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Teenage Engineering Teenage Engineering’s TP-7 Equips The Digital Recorder An Analog Feel Via Teenage Engineering You can bet that anything produced by Teenage Engineering is going to have a clean and distinguishable design. With a focus in developing high quality, Swedish designed electronics and synthesizers, there’s a consistent level of attention to detail across their range of products. Their latest is the TP-7 – a compact field recorder that combines their unique design language with an appealing analog feel. Via Teenage Engineering The TP-7 is built to record in all sorts of situations, from recording music to logging important thoughts for later on. Each button is strategically placed so that every function is accessible in the palm of your hand. The main feature is its mechanical tape reel which allows you to conveniently scrub through previous recordings or seamlessly navigate the TP-7 menu. Plus the actual look and feel of the center wheel adds to the cool factor that is sure to speak to all of us analog lovers. The Teenage Engineering TP-7 will r...

Watch Review: Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition Deployant
Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 May 20, 2023

Watch Review: Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition

Discover the Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition watch, a remarkable timepiece crafted in carbon fiber and featuring sustainability-inspired design elements. With its high-frequency chronograph movement and recycled parts, this exclusive watch embodies innovation and environmental consciousness. Limited to 100 pieces, it is available at Zenith boutiques worldwide.

Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned May 20, 2023

Up Close: The Imperial Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

With the Geneva auctions just having concluded, the spring sale season now moves to Hong Kong. The biggest event during auction week in the city will undoubtedly The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, an evening sale that take places at Phillips on May 23. The auction gets its name from the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96QL in platinum once owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last Emperor of China. Known to the market for several years but now going under the hammer for the first time, the watch might emerge as the year’s most valuable watch sold at auction – or it might not, given the mixed reputation of the final Qing Emperor. But regardless of the value, the Puyi’s Patek Philippe is an exceptionally interesting watch, both intrinsically and in terms of provenance. The provenance Phillips pulled out all the stops in marketing The Imperial Patek Philippe Sale, no doubt an attempt to reach an audience beyond watch collectors. While the ref. 96QL is an exceedingly rare watch – and worth millions on its own – the provenance of this example is bona fide “Imperial”. The story of the watch is ably told in a documentary produced by Phillips especially for the auction. The 17-minute film explains how the life and times of Puyi, his fascination with timepieces, and importantly, how the ref. 96QL ended up in the possession of a Russian translator. Amongst the interviewees in the film is Russell Working, an American journalist who once profiled the Russian translator, Georgy Pe...

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5980/1400G – May 20, 2023

Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023

The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...