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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Jul 11, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified

Hublot has always been known for pushing the envelope of material use in their latest releases. Contrary to that regular scheduling, LVMH Watch Week 2022 saw the release of the Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only. While certainly a more simplified take on a classic Hublot recipe, the Integrated Time Only (a change from the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only is ceramic luxury, simplified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Casio n Jul 11, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary “Sector” Dial

A venerable retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman marks its 50th year in business. Still in its landmark Ginza store that curiously sits slightly below street level, the Tokyo retailer has announced a series of one-off and limited edition watches to mark the occasion. The latest commemorative edition is a pair from Habring², the Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary and Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary, both featuring a discreet champagne-tone sector dial with thoughtful details. The flagship Shellman store in Tokyo’s Ginza district Initial thoughts Habring² offers honest quality and solid engineering, which makes it tangible qualities impeachable, especially in its price segment. So the appeal of a specific Habring² watch boils down to its specific design. While sector dials are common today, perhaps too common, Shellman was a pioneer in this type of design, having debuted its first Habring² with a sector dial in 2017, well before the style became a fad. For that reason, these anniversary watches have a stronger resonance than the average sector dial. The time-only And the two are also intrinsically appealing because of their careful design. At a distance both appear to be typical “sector” dials – attractive but more of the same. Up close, however, the dial designs are both smartly executed with strong attention to detail. The leaf-shape hands, for instance, are a familiar shape, but here they are heavier than usual, giving the ...

Five of our favourite watch and fashion brand collaborations Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2022

Five of our favourite watch and fashion brand collaborations

Collaborations have been the headlining trend in the fashion world in recent times, serving as the perfect way to create excitement, owing to the generally limited nature of the releases. Naturally, it only makes sense for watch brands to jump onto the hype train, which is reflected in the number of joint ventures, whether that … ContinuedThe post Five of our favourite watch and fashion brand collaborations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Living on a Thin Line – Our pick for six ultra-thin watches Deployant
Richard Mille who recently just [...] Jul 10, 2022

Living on a Thin Line – Our pick for six ultra-thin watches

There is a certain obsession with ultra-thin watches in the scene, with manufacturers trying to outdo each other by producing the world’s thinnest timepieces. Earlier this year, Bvlgari launched the world’s thinnest mechanical timepiece, in the form of the 1.80mm thick Octo Finissimo Ultra. This effort was however bested by Richard Mille, who recently justRead More

Here are the most beautiful quartz movements with open casebacks, with some hidden honourable mentions Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP017 Jul 10, 2022

Here are the most beautiful quartz movements with open casebacks, with some hidden honourable mentions

Following last week’s review of the Grand Seiko SBGP017, and your comments on Instagram regarding the exhibition of quartz movements, we were inspired to find other quartz watches with equally beautiful movements that also chose to put them on display. It’s always been a rare sight to see a quartz watch with a display caseback, … ContinuedThe post Here are the most beautiful quartz movements with open casebacks, with some hidden honourable mentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells A Story: Asmini’s Longines DolceVita Time+Tide
Longines DolceVita Some watch enthusiasts Jul 10, 2022

Every Watch Tells A Story: Asmini’s Longines DolceVita

Some watch enthusiasts obsess over the concept of a one-watch collection, gathering huge lists of specifications that would make their dream daily wearer capable of everything and anything. The truth is that all a watch really needs to do is tell the time and last the miles, which is exactly what Asmini’s Longines DolceVita L5.158.4.16.6 … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells A Story: Asmini’s Longines DolceVita appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2022

The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer

The brief at Brellum is usually quite simple, I presume. Create well-specced watches, in limited numbers, while minimising mark-ups. That last part is an often-heard filler for independent brands, but it’s also where Brellum differs from many - offering proper substance. The new Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer happens to be one of the more … ContinuedThe post The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Ranger Ref. 79950 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 8, 2022

Tudor Introduces the Ranger Ref. 79950

Conceived as a watch for explorers, the Ranger arrived in its current form with an Arabic-numeral dial in the 1960s, although the name dates to 1929. Although the model was revived in 2014, it never really caught on. Now that looks set to change with the brand-new Ranger that’s a subtly but substantial upgrade over its predecessor. Now housed in a better-proportioned case that now contains an in-house movement, the new Ranger becomes Tudor’s most affordable watch with a proprietary movement, thanks to its retail price that starts well under US$3,000. Initial thoughts For watchmaker that excels in affordable, reliable watches, the Ranger makes a lot of sense as it condenses Tudor’s key strengths in a compact, affordable package. The latest version of the model is equipped with the brand’s state-of-the-art features, including an in-house movement and the “T-fit” micro-adjustment clasp, but is priced at just US$2,725 on strap. In fact, the Ranger almost seems like Tudor intentionally making a point that it delivers arguably the best quality-to-price ratio in Swiss watchmaking. It is difficult, maybe impossible, to find another watch with the same tangible qualities for the same price. Aside from its technical features, the new Ranger is an intrinsically appealing watch, largely because it has better proportions and details than earlier version. Now 39 mm wide instead of 41 mm, the case is more appropriately given the design and historical inspiration. The diame...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin boutique Jul 8, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron

Hello everyone - Borna here! Thank you to Zach for letting me hijack this portion of the FWD. Last night, through the joint efforts of the Time+Tide Club and the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Melbourne, two dozen of our club members squeezed into the cosy store. Chit-chat was had before a presentation by Warren Ho, boutique … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Time+Tide Club swings by Vacheron appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 of the best watches worn by women on-screen Time+Tide
Omega s Jul 7, 2022

5 of the best watches worn by women on-screen

There’s no shortage of great timepieces in film and television, from the Rolexes and Omegas of the James Bond films (featuring a slate of deadly accoutrements), to the Speedmaster worn by Tom Hanks in Apollo 13, but what about the wristwear of women on-screen? It’s out there if you’re looking, and there’s a lot to … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best watches worn by women on-screen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Jul 7, 2022

Baltic Introduces the Aquascaphe Titanium

A French watchmaking startup founded in 2017 that successfully reimagined several well-known vintage designs, Baltic has just unveiled highest-spec dive watch to date – and arguably its most contemporary design. While still clearly vintage-inspired in terms of aesthetics, the Aquascaphe Titanium does better than its predecessor in terms of materials, construction, as well as water resistance. The result is a more substantial watch that’s pricier but still value minded. The bezel insert is brushed ceramic with luminous markings Initial thoughts For a brand that’s heavily reliant on vintage watches for insrpaiton, the Aquascaphe Titanium is a welcome departure from its other offerings. Granted it still retains a retro feel, but does so with materials that are decidedly modern, namely ceramic and titanium. On the subject of materials, one aspect that distinguishes the new Aquascaphe is the highly-domed sapphire crystal that calls to mind PlexiGlas found on vintage watches. Rarely found in modern dive watches at this price, most of which utilise flat crystals, the domed crystal results in slight visual distortion of the dial’s edges, which might not help legibility but certainly adds to the vintage feel. Another key detail that contributes to the appealing vintage styling is the all-brushed finish on both the case and bezel, along with the tasteful typography, which speak to the brand’s attention to detail. At the same time, the design that combines smart details w...

Richard Mille Unveils the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils Jul 6, 2022

Richard Mille Unveils the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever

Having signed Ferrari as a partner last year, Richard Mille was expected to debut a Ferrari wristwatch – and probably one with a seven-figure price tag. And so it has, although the watch itself is certainly a surprise. The first watch to result from the partnership is the RM UP-01 Ferrari, the thinnest mechanical watch ever at just 1.75 mm high, besting the previous record holder by 0.05 mm. Very wide and extremely flat, the RM UP-01 achieves that by relying on familiar principles in terms of mechanical deconstruction and reduction, but takes them slightly further to shave off the millimetres. Initial thoughts The last couple of years have seen the record for the thinnest mechanical watch change hands rapidly, with Piaget taking the title in 2018 with the AUC (that came to market in 2020), followed by Bulgari earlier this year with the Octo Finissimo Ultra. The Italian jeweller did not retain the crown for long because Richard Mille has just claimed the title with the RM UP-01 that stands 1.75 mm high, compared to 1.8 mm for the Bulgari. Tellingly, the approach taken by Richard Mille echoes that of Piaget and Bulgari, essentially deconstructing the movement and doing away with as many components as possible. As a result, the RM UP-01 has parallels with the former record holders, most obviously in the tiny time display as well as the deconstructed winding and setting mechanism that each require a key. That indicates that absolute thinness has more or less been achieved...

The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer Time+Tide
Jul 6, 2022

The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer

For years, in the circles I’m a part of, watch collectors have been asking a simple question. As watch prices continue to skyrocket, who in the bloody hell is buying pieces at these premiums? Premiums that are two, three, sometimes four times the original retail price. We all agree that there are ridiculously wealthy people … ContinuedThe post The link between crypto and collectible watches is becoming clearer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Jul 5, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture

Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...

550 words of extremely valuable – and at times explicit – dating advice in heavy horological lingo Time+Tide
Jul 3, 2022

550 words of extremely valuable – and at times explicit – dating advice in heavy horological lingo

Editor’s note: There’s more to life than watches. There’s also dating, and how to handle your love life business. In one of the most peculiar, but wonderful, stories ever filed at Time+Tide, Borna has compiled some pointers about, uh, coupling up. There is a catch, though. If you’re not up to date with horological terminology, it’s going to … ContinuedThe post 550 words of extremely valuable – and at times explicit – dating advice in heavy horological lingo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX” SJX Watches
Rolex Submariner Todd Rexford Jul 1, 2022

Up Close: Hot-Hammered Haute Horlogerie – Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”

One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based  on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...