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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 Last May 4, 2022

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

Last year, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 collection turned 100 years old. But when a design remains incredibly compelling for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims as Andrew discovered when he tried it out for a week on the wrist. There’s no denying that Vacheron Constantin … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition Time+Tide
Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition May 3, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition

Bremont is a brand that needs little introduction. Based in Henley-on-Thames in the UK, they’ve become closely associated with tough, tool watches inspired by military heritage; think pilot’s watches, field watches, diving watches and chronographs. The British watchmaker has been going from strength to strength in recent years including opening a new high-tech facility in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont S500 Bamford Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph delivers looks, utility and value Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical May 2, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph delivers looks, utility and value

Since the beginning of recorded time, man has sought to escape the bounds of earth’s pull for the freedom of the skies above. From the dawn of the 20th century, when man first affixed wings to engine for that brief-yet-monumental flight on the beach in Kitty Hawk, it seemed there was nothing left holding us … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hamilton Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chronograph delivers looks, utility and value appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone® Time+Tide
IWC proves May 1, 2022

“About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone®

With any sort of commercial product, the choice of colour plays a crucial role in attracting the consumer. But watchmaking is a game of precision, an art ever striving for the pursuit of perfection. It is no longer enough to make a black dial these days, now it needs to be the blackest black or … ContinuedThe post “About 80% of human experience is filtered through our eyes.” IWC proves the power of Pantone® appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highsnobiety just reposted our Moser Streamliner Vantablack video, because it is pure voodoo insanity Time+Tide
May 1, 2022

Highsnobiety just reposted our Moser Streamliner Vantablack video, because it is pure voodoo insanity

This year at Watches and Wonders, there were some new kids in on the block. For the first time ever, street and culture title Highsnobiety was invited to the media table, along with the usual specialist, trade and mainstream suspects. And you know what, it was a joy to have them there. Highsnob’s lifestyle and … ContinuedThe post Highsnobiety just reposted our Moser Streamliner Vantablack video, because it is pure voodoo insanity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 30, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders

When I went to Geneva for Watches & Wonders, the best way to describe the journey would be a horological food coma of bliss. Never before had I engaged with so many brands and timepieces at once, a delectable 40-brand course meal for a week straight. Of course, with such a wide menu of watches … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Zach (and Andrew) share their top 5 picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick” SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser which Apr 29, 2022

English Independents Team Up for the “Fears Garrick”

A pair of watchmakers with English roots, Fears and Garrick have banded together to create a wristwatch that bears the aesthetic of the former while relying on the mechanics of the latter, the Fears Garrick. Founded in 1846 but having gone out of business during the Quartz Crisis, Fears is an English brand that was revived in 2016 by a descendant of its founder. Though it was not in continuous operation, Fears is now one of the oldest, family-owned English watch brands. Its modern-day offerings are all about clean, simple designs inspired by watches from its past catalogue, which are sometimes paired with period-correct, vintage movements. Garrick, on the other hand, was founded in 2014. Sitting in a higher price point than the typical Fears, Garrick’s offerings are constructed with the help of Swiss specialists, including Andreas Strehler, and dressed up with traditional decoration such as engine turning. David Brailsford of Garrick (left), and Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of Fears’ founder Initial thoughts The Fears Garrick is essentially a Garrick S1, the brand’s most impressive offering to date, but redesigned to give it a simpler aesthetic. Though intriguing, the open dial of the S1 has been done away with and the result is minimalist but appealing. I actually prefer the look of the Fears Garrick over the S1. But the Fears Garrick does bring to mind the IWC Portugieser, which is a good thing. For anyone who found the movement of ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control in Blue SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Apr 29, 2022

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control in Blue

The Master Control was first conceived in 1992 as Jaeger-LeCoultre’s best offering in terms of accuracy and reliability, with every watch undergoing a 1,000-hour, in-house quality control test. While the rigorous testing was fairly novel at the time, it has since become the norm for all Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) watches. But the Master Control line has lived on. Facelifted in 2020, the Master Control watches have grown moderately in size to suit contemporary states but they retain the restrained design that characterised the original range. Most of the models sport a muted silver dial, but for the 30th anniversary of the collection, JLC has introduced the Master Control Date and Master Control Calendar with tri-tone blue dials. The simpler of the duo – the Master Control Date Initial thoughts My first impression of the watches is positive. Blue is a contemporary colour that nudges the aesthetic towards a more casual style, as opposed to the retro-formal look of the standard, silver-dial models. Notably, the limited-edition pair are ore than a change of colour. The thoughtful design is evident through the details, especially with the tri-tone finish of the dial. While blue can be found practically everywhere in watchmaking, tri-tone blue is unusual and attractive. And the calendar windows reveal discs that are in blue to match the dial. The red accents as well as the starry background of the moon phase are details that make the dial more interesting Both watches are othe...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront

Ricardo here again! Before I hand the mic back over to Zach for the usual Friday Wind Down programming, I quickly wanted to give a shoutout to an exciting event happening this week here in NYC. Months back, we did a  “Who to Follow” feature on Jason, who was focused on building a new type … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Complecto – a watch community with diversity at the forefront appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders

This year’s Watches & Wonders amazed me, not just because I was shocked by the scale of the in-person event, but because so many different brands decided to buck all trends. Sure, there were plenty of green dials, but there also seems to be a growing desire for watches that show a quirkier personality, and … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Buffy’s top 5 leftfield picks from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Apr 28, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders

Baume & Mercier have established themselves as a go-to option for great watches at a mid-range luxury price, and their impressive lineup from Watches & Wonders only expands the possibilities for potential customers to fall in love. While their more heritage-focused lines such as the Classima and the Hampton received a few tasty updates, it’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the Baume & Mercier novelties from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection Apr 28, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection

The Rado Captain Cook has proved a big hit since its launch in 2017 with its vintage-inspired looks reimagined with a smooth, contemporary edge that gives the watch a unique character among the hundreds of other Swiss dive watches. The range has gradually expanded over the last few years to include a 37mm version, different … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rado Captain Cook 2022 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Northern Lights For Ukraine: GoS Auctions Unique Piece Norrsken For Charity Quill & Pad
Apr 27, 2022

Northern Lights For Ukraine: GoS Auctions Unique Piece Norrsken For Charity

Patrik Sjögren of GoS was already active on Instagram in support of Ukraine in early March, at which time he saw an opportunity to help in the form of a collaboration with artist Matthew Miller (@sunflowerman.watch). The result is the GoS Northern Lights for Ukraine Norrsken unique piece now being auctioned by Sotheby's. Elizabeth Doerr explains what it is and how it came about here.

Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week Time+Tide
Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe Apr 27, 2022

Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week

It’s easy to understand the dangerous appeal of online auction platform, Loupe This. For a start, it’s co-owned by internationally renowned watch dealer / super-collector, Eric Ku (read this story about his crazy life here). As a result of his know-how and connections, the product on offer is always intriguing. “What we want to do, is … ContinuedThe post Cartier fanatics rejoice! Loupe This is auctioning a treasure trove of vintage rarities this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Apr 27, 2022

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121

Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 Sotheby’s just Apr 27, 2022

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s Sets Record for Most Expensive Patek Philippe Ref. 2499

Sotheby’s just concluded the first sale of the spring auction season, which now moves to Geneva with a series of auctions in the Swiss city starting the first weekend of May. The season opened strongly with several records set at Sotheby’s, most notably with The Nevadian Collector, a sale of Patek Philippe timepieces all owned by an American collector. Made up of 38 watches and one lot of vintage Gay Freres bracelets, the auction was led by an unsurprising favourite that sold for a record price – the possibly unique ref. 2499 in pink gold with a dial signed “Gobbi Milano”. Sotheby’s consultant Sam Hines bringing the hammer down on the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” Four telephone bidders competed for the watch, with bidding swift and aggressive. One of the bidders went big early on, taking the bid from HK$19 million to HK$30 million with one bid – an increment of about US$1.4 million. Eventually one of the phone bidders triumphed and set the record for the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction. The pink ref. 2499 “Gobbi” hammered for HK$50 million, resulting in a total of HK$60.265 million including the buyer’s premium. That’s equivalent to about US$7.68 million, making it the most expensive ref. 2499 ever sold at auction by some margin. The last record holder was the ref. 2499 “Asprey” that sold in 2018 for about US$ 4 million at Sotheby’s in Geneva – which was also sold by the Nevadian. While the ref. 2499 “Gobbi” was the headline lot,...