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Quartz Crisis

1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.

Wiki · Guide
The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.

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Snowflake Grand Seiko

The 2010 Spring Drive reference with a dial textured like fresh Shinshu snow.

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko After Dark “Moonlit Birch” Sep 22, 2025

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007

Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...

Grand Seiko Goes Gold SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Goes Gold Grand Seiko Sep 19, 2025

Grand Seiko Goes Gold

Grand Seiko has unveils three gold Spring Drive models with the new 9RA2 movement, the Japan-only Heritage Collection SLGA030, SLGA027 and SLGA028, in rose, white, and yellow gold respectively. The new collection benefits from a slimmer case, a longer power reserve, and some new dials to go with the satisfying heft of a full 18k gold bracelet that weighs in at almost 200 g. SLGA030 in rose gold. Initial Thoughts While mostly unknown outside Japan, a trio of gold Spring Drive models in 44GS-style cases on full gold bracelets were a staple of the domestic Grand Seiko catalog for nearly a decade, powered by the cal. 9R15 that was once the brand’s finest automatic Spring Drive movement. While identical to the cal. 9R65, save for a gold medallion on the rotor, Seiko set aside the best performing quartz timing packages for these special movements. The earlier generation of all-gold models, from left to right: SBGA364, SBGA361, and SBGA362. Grand Seiko has decided that now is the time to refresh the line with the upgraded cal. 9RA2, while preserving the heavyweight gravitas and luxurious bracelet of its predecessor. I have anticipated these watches since the second generation of Spring Drive movements launched in 2020; it took five years, but the result meets my expectations, though I would have liked a gold winding weight to match the case material. Selling watches on full precious metal bracelets in this segment is a mark of a strong brand. Gold prices and luxury margins bein...

Introducing – The Ai-Iro Blue Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB525 and SPB527 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB525 Sep 19, 2025

Introducing – The Ai-Iro Blue Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB525 and SPB527

If you’re looking for a classic watch with elegance, solid watchmaking credentials, a slight retro touch and a price that doesn’t break the bank, the Seiko Presage collection never falls short of offerings. While mostly known for its artistic dials, bringing Japanese crafts into the spotlight, the collection has grown dramatically to become the dressy/elegant […]

From whiskies to Negronis: Seiko continues its run of cocktail-inspired Australasian limited editions with the Presage SRPL96J ‘The Conte’ Time+Tide
Seiko continues Sep 16, 2025

From whiskies to Negronis: Seiko continues its run of cocktail-inspired Australasian limited editions with the Presage SRPL96J ‘The Conte’

Seiko follows 2023's SRPK50J 'Irori Moments' and 2024's SRPL20J 'Ichigo Ichie' with a Negroni rather than whisky -inspired Cocktail Time.The post From whiskies to Negronis: Seiko continues its run of cocktail-inspired Australasian limited editions with the Presage SRPL96J ‘The Conte’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Adds Sep 11, 2025

Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph

Almost as soon as Grand Seiko released the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches & Wonders 2024, we started to wonder what this new class of manually wound dress watch from one of our favorite brands might look like in different variants. This seemed like a natural platform for expansion, and we figured it was just a matter of time before we saw some alternative dial options and new metals. In the year and a half or so since Grand Seiko introduced these watches, and the 9SA4 caliber powering them, things have been quiet on the manually wound dress watch front. That is, until this week, when we finally got a peek at the new SLGW007, Grand Seiko’s first new launch with this case and movement since the big debut at Watches & Wonders last year.  While the most obvious update on the surface here is certainly the new dark blue dial, it’s actually the case itself that really has my interest. The SLGW003, you’ll recall, was crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This is a very cool material, for sure, but has a niche appeal in a classically styled dress watch like this thanks to its ultra light weight and the associations we all have with titanium and tool watches. The SLGW007 is in stainless steel, and I’m incredibly curious to see how this might change the character of the watch on the wrist. One would certainly expect it to be a bit heavier, but I imagine the finishing will also have a slightly different, perhaps more traditional look to it, at least in the con...

Grand Seiko Introduces The “Sunrise” Tentagraph SLGC006 And “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007 Fratello
Grand Seiko Introduces Sep 11, 2025

Grand Seiko Introduces The “Sunrise” Tentagraph SLGC006 And “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007

Grand Seiko has been steadily expanding its Evolution 9 collection since its introduction in 2020. We have seen a wide variety of releases linked by a combination of modern case designs and technologically advanced new calibers. For its latest introductions, Grand Seiko releases two variations of popular models in the collection. The first is the […] Visit Grand Seiko Introduces The “Sunrise” Tentagraph SLGC006 And “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007 to read the full article.

First Look – The new Grand Seiko Sunrise Tentagraph Limited Edition SLGC006 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Sunrise Tentagraph Limited Edition Sep 10, 2025

First Look – The new Grand Seiko Sunrise Tentagraph Limited Edition SLGC006

Released in 2023, the Tentagraph was Grand Seiko’s first-ever mechanical chronograph… I know, it sounds weird for a brand with about 65 years of history, but all of its chronographs used to be based on a Spring Drive architecture (calibres 9R86 and 9R96) until the launch of the SLGC001. Using the Evolution 9 platform, the Tentagraph […]

Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Upcycles Leather Sep 10, 2025

Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage

Seiko adds a new limited-edition to its line of affordable dress watch with the Presage Classic Series Upcycled Leather Strap that sports knurled bezel, golden-brown gradient dial, and with a leather strap made from shoe leather offcuts supplied by Regal, a Japanese shoemaker best known for its leather dress shoes. Initial Thoughts Though strange on the surface, the Seiko Presage and Regal tie-up makes sense. Both are affordable, solid offerings in their respective segments, and also distinctly Japanese. Notably, Regal is launching the saddle shoes that produced the offcuts later this week. The watch itself is a good looking iteration of Seiko’s familiar entry-level dress watch. The bezel and smoked dial are a pleasing combination that set this apart from most Presage models. Seiko didn’t mention the impetus for this collaboration in press materials; I suspect geography was a part. Regal builds its top of the line shoes in the town of Morioka, near Morioka Seiko Instruments, the heart of Seiko’s domestic mechanical watch production. That proximity lends a lot of authenticity to the collaboration for me, and I wish it were part of Seiko’s messaging, though I understand most consumers don’t care. At the same time, Regal is little known outside Japan, but its shoes are a fixture in major Japanese department stores. The transient nature of leather straps is arguably a shortcoming in watches like the new Presage, or the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon at the other en...

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer Fratello
Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” Sep 8, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer

Upcycling, the process of transforming materials that would otherwise be discarded into new products of higher value through thoughtful design and creativity, is a current theme, and that’s a good thing. You’ll get my point by looking at the new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529. The elegant 40.2mm watch features a strap made of […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Presage Classic Series “Shiracha” SPB529 - Like Slipping On A Loafer to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Aug 15, 2025

eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Shreve & Co LED  Another week, another cool vintage LED! I honestly don’t know why there are so many of these coming out of the woodwork, but I’m glad they are. This one is a vintage Shreve & Co. with a nice space-age chunky look. The 36.5mm steel case is in great shape with sharp edges and unpolished. The bracelet is original and complements the watch perfectly. The display works and the watch runs as it should. Nice 1970’s goodness from a seldom seen brand. View auction here Vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000  We have a real winner here, a vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000 dress watch. This 61GS epitomizes Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design aesthetic. The broad planes, sharp edges and mix of brushed and polished finishes is simply sublime. The silver dial is clean and has the classic simple stick markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The dauphine hands have gorgeous bevels, a testament to the precise craftsmanship of the Grand Seiko line. The 6146 movement is hi-beat, pulsing at 36000 beats per hour. The deeply grooved crown is original and signed with the GS logo as it should. The gold GS caseback medallion is in really nice condition as well. Really a beautiful piece here. Vie...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph Fratello
Grand Seiko Tentagraph Sunday morning! Time Aug 10, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph

Sunday morning! Time for a cup of coffee and another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head in a battle of the titanium high-beat chronographs. Mike’s pick this week is the titanium Grand Seiko Tentagraph. The first blue dial model was released in 2023 and got a follow-up this year. However, the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph to read the full article.

Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue Fratello
Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition Aug 9, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue

There’s no shortage of Seiko releases these days, but few pique our interest quite like a new Alpinist. The rugged field watch has earned cult status over the years, balancing quirky charm with real-world capability. Now, with the introduction of the Seiko Alpinist SPB531, the brand adds a Europe-only edition in a deep, moody blue. […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Alpinist EU Limited Edition In Blue to read the full article.

The Pepsi Challenge: Seiko Continues their Summer of Licensing Worn & Wound
Seiko Continues their Summer Aug 6, 2025

The Pepsi Challenge: Seiko Continues their Summer of Licensing

A few months ago when Seiko unveiled their Jaws watch, I didn’t really think much of it. Jaws is one of the most popular movies ever made, and it’s celebrating a big anniversary this year. In a world where watch brands collaborate with all kinds of silly entities for all kinds of silly reasons, it seemed like a pretty normal release. Then, just in the last week, Seiko announced a trio of watches bearing the Datsun name. OK, a Japanese car – a cult classic car at that – doesn’t require a whole lot of mental gymnastics to figure out. But then yesterday, when I opened Instagram over my morning coffee and saw the new Seiko “Pepsi” watches, reader I have to admit: it broke my brain a little.  At first I thought it must be a prank or a joke. Maybe Seiko’s account got hacked and one of these new AI engines built an entire marketing campaign around the most on-the-nose “collaboration” yet? But no, a little digging revealed that the two new Seiko 5 Sports watches with blue and red Pepsi bezels were indeed an endeavor bearing the name of the number 2 cola in the country. We’ve been referring to bezels in this colorway as “Pepsi” bezels for longer than I’ve been involved in the watch industry, as a hobbyist and certainly as a professional. It certainly never occurred to me that one day the beverage company would sign on as what amounts to an official partner with a watch brand. But it’s a testament to the ultra-corporatized watch world we’re all livin...

From Homage to Heritage: Why I Traded My Seiko SPB317 for the 6105-8000 Fratello
Seiko SPB317 Aug 6, 2025

From Homage to Heritage: Why I Traded My Seiko SPB317 for the 6105-8000

Every once in a while, a big box with Seiko watches arrives at the Fratello office. It contains the brand’s releases for the upcoming months and allows us to review and photograph them ahead of time. I still remember when I discovered the Seiko SPB317 in there, back in 2022. I immediately fell in love […] Visit From Homage to Heritage: Why I Traded My Seiko SPB317 for the 6105-8000 to read the full article.

Seiko Introduces Six New Speedtimers, Including Three Limited Editions Celebrating the Datsun 240Z Worn & Wound
Seiko Introduces Six New Speedtimers Aug 5, 2025

Seiko Introduces Six New Speedtimers, Including Three Limited Editions Celebrating the Datsun 240Z

We’re several years deep into the era of collaborative, limited edition watch releases, and while a lot of the hype has subsided around some of these drops, there’s no sign that the overall strategy is shifting anytime soon. Brands both large and small are still keen to slap partner logos on dials and casebacks, and draw parallels between watches and, well, you name it. Obviously, the automotive world is ripe for these collaborations, and is the window through which a trio of new Seikos come into our lives. Three limited edition references made in partnership with Datsun are the headline here, but in a smart move, Seiko is simultaneously announcing corresponding regular production models that riff on the same themes without all the branding. So there’s something here for the Datsun enthusiast (of which we know there are many) as well as those that are more inclined to shun this type of commercial cross-polination and just want their watch to be a watch and not an exercise in remembering a very specific link to a carmaker’s history.  The premise for all these watches (or rather, for the limited editions) is Seiko’s relationship with Datsun, which dates back to the early 1970s when Seiko supported the 240Z in races across the world. Most notably, Seiko was a sponsor of the #11 car that won the East-African Safari Rally, a 6,200 kilometer race that is generally regarded as one of the most challenging on the international circuit.  All of the watches discussed here...

Has Seiko Reignited A Little Magic With Its New Limited Edition 5 Sport? Fratello
Seiko Reignited Aug 5, 2025

Has Seiko Reignited A Little Magic With Its New Limited Edition 5 Sport?

Seiko is an absolute titan in the watch industry. The number of key timepieces in the brand’s catalog is too long to list here. Nevertheless, it’s a brand that has faced an identity crisis over the last half-decade or so, I would argue. The new SRPL91 and SRPL93 Seiko 5 Sports series show just how […] Visit Has Seiko Reignited A Little Magic With Its New Limited Edition 5 Sport? to read the full article.

Introducing – The Europe-Exclusive Seiko Prospex Alpinist Night Sky SPB531 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex Alpinist Night Sky Aug 4, 2025

Introducing – The Europe-Exclusive Seiko Prospex Alpinist Night Sky SPB531

One of the oldest Seiko watches still in production, the Alpinist was introduced in 1959 (note that the Laurel, released in 1913, is even more enduring), and it has since become a staple of the brand’s catalogue. Considered Seiko’s first professional watch, it was designed specifically by Seiko for Yama-Otoko, or mountain men. The collection […]