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New: TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300
TAG Heuer revives an icon, adding 3 new watches to the Aquaracer Professional 300 family, including the return of the Night Diver.
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SJX Watches
In-Depth: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (sans Tourbillon)
Launched earlier this year as its new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch (replacing the venerable Langematik Perpetual), the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar (L1 QP) appears to be a simplified version of the same watch with a tourbillon from 2012. But it is actually entirely different. Though the L021.3 inside the L1 QP borrows from the architecture of an existing calibre, it has been extensively reengineered and substantially upgraded, as is the norm for Lange. And despite the new mechanics, the L1 QP retains the assuringly familiar face of the Lange 1. Initial thoughts The L1 QP was long awaited for the simple reason that is makes a good idea – a calendar cleverly displayed in the distinctive layout of the Lange 1 dial – far more affordable than it was. When it was first launched, it was combined with a tourbillon, which lifted the price to well over US$300,000. Now the same calendar layout is available in a watch priced at about US$100,000. That’s still a lot of money, but within the ballpark for a perpetual calendar from a high-end brand. Comparable watches like the recent Patek Philippe ref. 5236P cost about the same. So price wise, the L1 QP is acceptable, even reasonable value, because it is an excellent perpetual calendar. The display is unique, but strongly functional. The crucial bits of information, namely date and month, are easily readable. Add to that the trademark, asymmetric layout of the Lange 1, and the result is a display that excels in both clarit...
Quill & Pad
Cohiba Lancero Cuban Cigars: Talked About Far More Than Smoked
Cohiba Lancero is arguably the most famous cigar of all. It is, however, a cigar that is talked about far more than it is smoked. Why? With measurements of 7½ inches and a ring gauge of 38 (not to forget the little pigtail at the end), it falls smack in the center of what the old timers call the “long and skinnies.” Ken Gargett explains why it's worth a puff.
SJX Watches
Panerai Debuts a Smartly Minimalist Perpetual Calendar
Following the recent return of platinum to Panerai’s line up, the brand is continuing with precious metals, but this time with a far more elaborate movement boasting a perpetual calendar and GMT. Despite its complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar – available as the Goldtech PAM 742 or Platinumtech PAM 715 – is smartly designed, with a clean dial that’s typical of Panerai, clean enough it resembles as a day-date Panerai at a glance. Initial thoughts Arriving in a Panerai wristwatch for the very first time (though there was the co-branded Panerai-Ferrari FER015 of 2007), the perpetual calendar was only incorporated in one other Panerai timepiece, the uber-complicated planetarium clock made in 2014 to commemorate Gallileo Galilei. While simpler, the perpetual calendar wristwatch doesn’t disappoint, with its concise calendar display. While the complication is now common, few brands can boast calendar displays that are both distinctive and legible – Moser being one of the few. Perhaps more important for Panerai than any other brand, given the simplicity of its trademark design, the streamlined display means the Luminor Perpetual Calendar still looks very much like a typical Panerai. Unlike the recent time-only Platinumtech Luminor with blue hands, the Perpetual Calendar has pink gold hands that blend into the olive background better As the dial being the familiar Panerai design, it falls to the case materials to distinguish Luminor Perpetual from the...
Time+Tide
Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold”
A blink of the eye is usually judged to take one tenth of a second to complete. In the 100m freestyle, Kyle Chalmers missed out on Olympic gold by considerably less than that. Arch-rival Caeleb Dressel of the United States pipped the Aussie swimmer to the finish by just 0.06 seconds. After reviewing the race … ContinuedThe post Olympic swimmer Kyle Chalmers: “This silver medal means so much more than my gold” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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New: Zenith opens its Manufacture Boutique and launches the Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition
The new Zenith Boutique is recently opened, and to celebrate this monumental opening, they launched a new Zenith Chronomaster Original Boutique Edition.
Hodinkee
Weekend Rewind: Submariner Mania: A Deep Dive Into The World's Most Famous Dive Watch
Everything you need to know about vintage Rolex Subs.
Deployant
New: Swatch injects more colour into their Big Bold collection with the Planets line
Swatch makes a colourful extension to their popular Big Bold Collection with four funky colours with cryptic names to make up the new Planets line.
SJX Watches
A Brief History of the IWC Pilot’s Watch
One of IWC’s signature wristwatch lines – the other being the Portugieser – is the Pilot’s Watch, a collection descended from the timepieces dating to the earliest days of aviation. Popular for its functional styling and general affordability, the Pilot’s Watch collection is regularly updated – IWC revamped the range in 2016, 2019, and again this year – and diverse. There are two threads running through IWC’s modern-day Pilot’s Watch collection that connect to the brand’s historical aviator’s watches: the smaller “Mark” watches typically associated with the British Royal Air Force (RAF) and the oversized “B-Uhr” made for the German air force of the Second World War. Big pilot and small pilot – Mark IX and B-uhr The origins IWC’s history in aviator’s watches started the Special Pilot’s Watch ref. 436, now widely known as the “Mark IX”. Conceived by the two sons of Ernst Jakob Homberger, the then-owner of IWC, the Mark IX was unveiled in 1936. Homberger’s sons were both licensed pilots and understood the features required for good pilot’s watch, resulting in style that is now synonymous with the pilot’s watch genre. IWC was not the only maker of pilot’s watches during the period, though it was arguably the most successful since it continued to be a leading supplier of aviator’s timepieces for the next two decades. The Mark IX had a 38 mm case – extraordinarily oversized in an era when the standard man’s watch was a...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return
Design is the language microbrands use best to communicate to collectors what it is they bring to the table. One microbrand who has done an amazing job of this is Brew Watch Company. Founded by designer Jonathan Ferrer in 2015, the company has released multiple collections, which feature attention-grabbing designs, that all focus on a … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Built for baristas, the Brew Retrograph Technicolor makes a welcome return appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Rewind: The Why Of Dive (Watches)
To dive or not to dive ... that is the question.
Quill & Pad
Kari Voutilainen Masterpiece 8 Decimal Repeater – Reprise
One of the big introductions of 2015 in the collector’s world was A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk Minute Repeater: a watch that both shows and chimes off the time using a “decimal” format of hours, tens of minutes, and minutes rather than the more traditional hours, quarters (15 minutes), and minutes. But the first decimal repeating wristwatch to reach the market wasn’t the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. It was by independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen.
Quill & Pad
Corum Bubble X-Ray: It Glows Inside!
No one buys a Corum Bubble to hide underneath a jacket sleeve; it's a watch that makes its presence felt. And with a luminous layered x-ray image of the human skull smiling out from under the bulbous sapphire crystal dome, the Bubble X-Ray is no exception.
Hodinkee
Weekend Rewind: Ben Spends A Week On The Wrist With The Rolex Sea-Dweller
When it comes to Rolex dive watches, the Sub is just the beginning.
Quill & Pad
Making Of A Custom-Engraved Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique – Reprise
A collector got in touch with Martin Green about an engraving project on a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classique that he was planning. What caught Martin's attention was that the collector was collaborating with an engraver very close to his home, so he seized the opportunity to follow the project as it unfolded. He shares his experiences and photos here.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver
Most view the Diver as a luxury sport watch, and it is, but we wanted to test the Diver in the conditions that it was engineered for.
Revolution
Presenting The “Nuclear Option” for Revolution & The Rake
Introducing the world’s first Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in Black Ceramic. The “Nuclear Option” for Revolutionand The Rake is a limited edition of 30 pieces, priced at USD $19,550. Available to purchase now on RevolutionWatch.com.
Revolution
The Legacy of Carl F. Bucherer
Revolution recounts the story of Carl Friedrich Bucherer – the man, his legacy and the institution that was birthed out of his passion, which still guides it to this day.
Revolution
Introducing the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic Chronograph GMT “Nuclear Option” for Revolution & The Rake
In the follow-up to “White Light,” the fully luminous Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT created for us last year, we’ve gone nuclear with a case in black sandblasted ceramic and a dial so luminous it can be seen from space.
Hodinkee
Bulgari's Diva Moment Continues
With two very different tributes to the ancient Roman Caracalla mosaics.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Gérald Genta Arena Retro Mickey Mouse Disney
Built to last.
Revolution
The Art of Engineering: Glashütte Original’s Pano Collection
The Pano Collection by Glashütte Original has the weight of history, flair of modernity and heart of the incredibly talented artisans who build them. The latest addition to this extraordinary collection is a striking and visually stunning PanoInverse in platinum, which is limited to 25 pieces.
SJX Watches
IWC Introduces the Pilot’s Watch Laureus Edition 2021 in Blue Ceramic
Long an annual tradition for IWC – now in its 15th consecutive year in fact – the “Laureus Sport for Good” edition is back once again in its usual blue livery that echoes the emblem of the eponymous charity with the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Edition ‘Laureus Sport for Good’. Each annual Laureus edition sees IWC facelift one of its watches, from the classical Portofino to the sporty Pilot’s Watch, typically in a simple fashion with the addition of a blue dial – good enough but not quite great. This year the brand is doing something a bit more special with its entry-level aviator’s watch, which gets a blue ceramic case in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts As is typical of the IWC Pilot’s Watch, the new Laureus edition is simple, coherent and appealing. But it offers a bit more with the tone-on-tone case and dial, making it slightly more special than the standard Pilot’s Watches, or even past Laureus editions. Though IWC used a similar formula for the Laureus edition of two years ago – that had a polished, black ceramic case instead – the latest edition is tangibly better. For one, a blue ceramic case is rare, having been utilised by only a handful of watchmakers, and it also looks pretty cool. At the same time, the watch has been upgraded in technical terms. It houses the new, five-day cal. 32111, which is derived from the cal. 32115 first seen in the ultra-shock resistance Big Pilot XPL. Both are in turn modified versions of the cal. 32...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Classic 12 celebrates the brand’s 60th with a reverse panda dial
I love brand anniversaries. They present the perfect opportunity for a brand to do something new or to celebrate their past by pulling something special out of their archives. In 2011, Sinn gave us the grey dialled, bi-compax, 358 chronograph to celebrate their 50th anniversary. With this year being their 60th, I couldn’t wait to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Sinn 103 Classic 12 celebrates the brand’s 60th with a reverse panda dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Montblanc Honors Nicolas Rieussec With New Chronograph
A return to form.
Revolution
Introducing the Junghans Meister Gangreserve Edition 160
To celebrate 160 years of watchmaking, Junghans announced new limited-edition models to honor their new slogan, “Creating time – yesterday, today and for generations to come.” Meister Gangreserve Edition 160 is inspired by Junghan’s 1950s mechanical timepiece with a unique and colorful power reserve indicator.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The 2021 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore reinvigorates the original design
In 1989, designer Emmanuel Gueit, who, at the time, worked for Audemars Piguet, presented a conceptual sketch that introduced a more robust take on the classic Genta designed Royal Oak. Its design, later realised for commercial release in 1993, came at a time where bigger and bulkier watches really spoke to a younger generation and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The 2021 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore reinvigorates the original design appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Sinn 103 Classic 12
Sinn releases a new 600-piece limited classic chronograph with a ceramic bezel insert to mark the 60th anniversary. Presenting the Sinn 103 Classic 12.
Revolution
Austen Chu Goes All Out with Wristcheck’s First Store in Hong Kong
Wristcheck’s flagship store in Hong Kong’s plush Landmark mall is all set to redefine the pre-owned watch business with its ultra cool, immersive experiences especially curated for the younger watch collecting community.
SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante
Czapek & Cie unveiled the Antarctique a year ago, its first foray into the popular category of luxury-sports watches. While the Antarctique had many of the elements synonymous with a luxury-sports watch, namely a steel case, blue dial, and integrated bracelet, it lacked what is arguably the signature element of Czapek’s design DNA – a pair of sub-dials at five and seven. Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the followup to the original model combines a light touch of high horology with styling more faithful to the brand’s origins – the Antarctique Rattrapante, which is also the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Antarctique Rattrapante is a noble effort in fusing the brand’s signature look with a modern, open-worked dial. Aesthetically, the design works well. The concept of having the entire split-seconds chronograph module visible on the dial creates an intricate view of the mechanics that would normally be hidden. And the mechanics are interesting, as the look is the result of substantial contortions to lower the sub-dials while ensuring they do not run into the gear train for the central hands. Notably, the repositioning was done with extra wheels – the chronograph mechanism actually has the registers in their traditional three and nine positions. At its core however, the chronograph remains a traditional, mono-pusher mechanism, albeit one that’s modular. The split-seconds mechanism does lack a key feature found ...