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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs Time+Tide
Hamilton s BTCA Nov 11, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs

This week seems to be the week of awards shows. I was in California last weekend for the Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards, while today Andrew was at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards celebrate the hard work of those who work behind the scenes in the movie industry, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Nov 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time

When you think of a GMT watch with a blue dial, your mind probably goes to one of many sports watch classics. Having almost nothing in common with those is the new Speake-Marin collaboration with Watches of Switzerland - the One & Two Dual Time Limited Editions. Produced to pay tribute to the London origins … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Speake-Marin x Watches of Switzerland One & Two Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Nov 10, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces the Hand-Wind Spring Drive “Asaborake” SBGY011

Having launched several elegant and concise time-only watches this year, Grand Seiko has unveiled something once again simple but still unusual: the first regular-production, manual-wind Spring Drive 44GS, the Heritage Collection SBGY011 “Asaborake”. The SBGY011 combines two of the best elements of Grand Seiko (GS), namely the hybrid Spring Drive movement and the distinctive 44GS case. While the combination has been seen before, the SBGY011 brings something new to the table because the movement is manual wind, instead of self-winding as most Spring Drive calibres are. Initial thoughts I appreciate the SBGY011 because it retains the key features of the original, namely the 44GS case, silver dial, and hand-wind movement – but reinterpreted to incorporate contemporary elements such as the Spring Drive movement and patterned dial. Combined with the 44GS case, the silver dial gives the SBGY011 an aesthetic that’s close to the vintage 44GS of 1967. In fact, it’s essentially a modern, more technically-capable version of the original, which also contained a hand-wind mechanical movement. In fact, the SBGY011 is only the second hand-wind Spring Drive watch with a 44GS case, and the first and only one that’s not a limited edition. The hand-wind movement matters because the 44GS case is exponentially more attractive when it’s thin; in this case it is only 10.5 mm high. In comparison, a typical automatic Spring Drive is around 13 mm thick. Notably, despite being a regul...

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy If Nov 10, 2022

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy

If you’ve been following Time+Tide closely, you’ll have noticed that Andrew has had some pretty special moments in Switzerland recently. As much as a visit to any Holy Trinity watch manufacturer is going to be a highlight, there seems to be something about the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin collection which just makes his eyes glaze … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Trilogy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Nov 10, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection

For me, Minase are one of the few brands who can beat Grand Seiko in their level of artful dials, finishing quality and ingenuity. In addition, their originality extends to their case design as well. Add in their reasonably low prices, and this Japanese brand is probably one of the best value options out there … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case Time+Tide
Grand Seiko debuts Nov 9, 2022

Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case

Grand Seiko is known for their colorful and textured dials born from natural muses. The Japanese philosophy of translating their surrounding nature into their craft has long distinguished their creations but, in regard to the Grand Seiko catalogue, has resulted in an ample menu of dial flavours to choose from. For the watch geek looking … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko debuts the manually wound Spring Drive SBGY011 in a 44GS case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger

A company had to muster real tenacity to make it through the Quartz Crisis, but Delma managed to thrive instead of survive during those tough years, continuing to honour the art of traditional mechanical watchmaking. Despite this, they’re not talked about as much as they perhaps deserve to be, and so we’ve been taking a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Delma Montego is a bold chronograph with plenty of macho swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year” SJX Watches
Casio nal practice Nov 7, 2022

IWC Introduces the Portugieser Automatic 40 “Chinese New Year”

Continuing with its occasional practice of special editions to mark the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC debuts the Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” to commemorate the Year of Water Rabbit that begins in early 2023. The limited edition retains the style of the classic Portugieser but dressed up with a riveting burgundy dial with gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts As an admirer of vintage timepieces, I find few watches that match the distinctive simplicity of the original Portugieser ref. 325 from 1939. So the Portugieser Automatic 40 is easy to like since it echoes the feel of the vintage original. The Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year” stands out with its unusual dial. Bright red is the traditional colour of Lunar New Year, but its darker counterpart is a more appropriate hue for a dress watch. While the design still evokes the original – the gold hands and numerals give it a vintage feel – the burgundy dial is more dynamic than the conventional silver alternative, giving it a more versatile feel than the formal original. More importantly, the new Portugieser is not merely a fancy dial catered to Asian buyers. The case back reveals the in-house movement that’s one of the better automatic movements in this price segment. Lastly, the Chinese New Year edition costs US$1,000 more than the standard edition, which is an acceptable premium for the new dial as well as the commemorative rabbit rotor. The only downside for a co...

MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe

For the last few years, watchmaking has really been throwing off the shackles of stylistic repression across independent and large-scale manufacturers, leading to some of the most outlandish designs ever seen. Although an ever-increasing will to experiment can only be a good thing for the industry, the trend towards more eccentric shapes and “fun” colours … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: With a design that’s clean and serene, the Wolter Classic lets every detail breathe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never Nov 6, 2022

VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction

Despite being over 50 years old, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has never ceased to be a thought provoker. Even though the signature octagonal design has well and truly been accepted into the collective consciousness of watch design, having thousands of copies and homages, there are still so many mysteries surrounding how the physical object … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The truth behind the Royal Oak’s construction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer Time+Tide
Nov 6, 2022

Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer

There are a lot of unique jobs in the world, and careers are very rarely planned out accurately. The wristwatch world adopted me in a whirlwind, and I went from preferring not to wear a watch to writing for Time+Tide within the space of about a year. Even if you told me when I was … ContinuedThe post Top 5 questions I get when people find out I’m a watch reviewer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2022

The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative

LeJour is one of those rare success stories of an extinct Swiss brand being revived with a modern catalogue, and they continue to move from strength to strength with the LeJour Brooklyn collection - putting some unique twists on much-loved elements from dress and field watches. If you’ve been looking for an interesting and reliable … ContinuedThe post The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve

Some say that it’s a fashion faux-pas to mix black with brown, but rules are meant to be broken. Just as steel and gold can work together if you’ve got the attitude, a two-tone colour scheme of black and brown can bring some gloriously retro vibes to your wrist, sharing in the indulgent and decadent … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Pilot GMT Chocolate will add a few Twix up your sleeve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Fans Nov 4, 2022

Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX

Fans of the best affordable integrated bracelet sports watch, rejoice! While possibly a bold claim, no other big box brand has managed to grasp the market quite as well as the Tissot PRX. Though successful, the Swatch Group brand has been pretty quiet with strap support for the PRX, despite its quick-release bracelet and the … ContinuedThe post Delugs delivers with a range of high-end rubber straps for the Tissot PRX appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Making a Mark: Understanding the 1931 Alphabet Typeface by Jaeger Le-Coultre SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre JLC has been exploring Nov 4, 2022

Making a Mark: Understanding the 1931 Alphabet Typeface by Jaeger Le-Coultre

Watchmakers have long embarked on collaborations with artists, from Geneva jeweller Gilbert Albert and his Brâncuşi-inspired designs for Patek Philippe to the Zen creations by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando for Bulgari. Such collaborations are amongst the best ways for a watch brand to broaden its appeal. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has been exploring such relationships with “Made of Makers”, an initiative made up of collaborations with varied designers and artisans from other disciplines, including mixologist Matthias Giroud and the Michelin-starred pastry chef Nina Métayer. Its latest partnership is with Spanish typographer and illustrator Alex Trochut, who has penned a font specifically for the brand, the 1931 Alphabet. Alex Trochut Initial thoughts On its face, this might sound like the typical artistic collaboration embarked upon by a watchmaker. But this has a subtle twist in engaging with watch enthusiasts as it’s all about personalisation of the watch.  The 1931 Alphabet can transform a stock Reverso into something unique and something that would not be out of place Jay Gatsby’s wrist. It’s a prime example of typography as a decorative art in watchmaking. The attention to detail in the font design is evident in the kerning of the letters, which includes the use of negative space to create balance.  The 1931 Alphabet Given this typeface’s strikingly bold design, it is a perfect pair for the Reverso. Since its introduction in 1931, the model has evolve...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Jaeger-LeCoultre opens pop-up Reverso 1931 Café in NYC Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre opens pop-up Reverso 1931 Nov 4, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Jaeger-LeCoultre opens pop-up Reverso 1931 Café in NYC

This week Jaeger-LeCoultre brought their pop-up Reverso 1931 Café to the upper east side of New York City. Jaeger-LeCoultre explains: “This season, the Reverso 1931 Café opens in different locations around the world from New York to Tokyo. Immerse yourself in an Art Deco setting for an enchanting journey through the aromas and flavours of … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Jaeger-LeCoultre opens pop-up Reverso 1931 Café in NYC appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

I bought four of my friends Seikos in 2019 – here’s how much they’re worth now Time+Tide
Seiko s Nov 3, 2022

I bought four of my friends Seikos in 2019 – here’s how much they’re worth now

I’ll admit that 2019 was a fantastic time for me personally. Not only was I blissfully unaware of the oncoming pandemic, but it was also the first time I was earning an expendable income. It may have only been minimum wage, but I decided that it was time to reimburse some of my close friends … ContinuedThe post I bought four of my friends Seikos in 2019 – here’s how much they’re worth now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R Cruiser draws high-octane inspiration from the world of motorcycling Time+Tide
Rolex sponsoring almost all Nov 3, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R Cruiser draws high-octane inspiration from the world of motorcycling

Motosports get a lot of love from the world of watches, from the smallest microbrand homage to Rolex sponsoring almost all of the Formula 1 Grands Prix. Sadly, one side of automotive expression that doesn’t get anywhere nearly as much recognition is motorcycling. Doing their bit to redress the balance, the Depancel Serie-R Cruiser taps … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R Cruiser draws high-octane inspiration from the world of motorcycling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Rado’s new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic is a statement piece and material flex Time+Tide
Rado s new Captain Cook Nov 3, 2022

HANDS-ON: Rado’s new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic is a statement piece and material flex

On the long list of watch brands known to excel with ceramic, Rado easily finds its place in the top five. Going beyond just a shiny bezel insert, the brand makes full use of the material in a large percentage of their watches from ceramic cases to ceramic bracelets. They’ve been doing it for years, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Rado’s new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic is a statement piece and material flex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Nov 2, 2022

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

It’s always a safe assumption that watches from Vacheron Constantin are going to be exquisite in all aspects, yet still nothing prepares us for those occasions when they release something infinitely special. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton gets every possible element right despite being quite a complicated package, and seeing it as … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.