Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Understanding The New Middle Class Of Watchmaking
A lot has changed for the watch world's mid-grade makers, but there are plenty of reasons to be excited about the future.
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A lot has changed for the watch world's mid-grade makers, but there are plenty of reasons to be excited about the future.
SJX Watches
With edgy decor that set it apart from a typical luxury-watch store of the period, the inaugural Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore’s Hilton hotel was one of the world’s first “concept” stores dedicated to high-end mechanical watches when it opened in 2005. After a run of well over a decade, the original SHH store closed in 2019, but the format has now made a comeback at Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino complex. Located along a stretch of the mall dominated by watch and jewellery brands, the new SHH once again focuses on niche and independent brands. Its stable of brands total 19 and include Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and Ferdinand Berthoud. Reboot and revive Being amongst the first retailers in the world to offer brands that were then just startups but would go on to do great things – Sincere took on Franck Muller in 1992, Lange in 1995, Panerai in 1998, and F.P. Journe in 2000 – SHH was a logical progression of Sincere’s retail strategy in the early 2000s. “[SHH in Hilton] was meant to be a touch point for very fine mechanical watches and high end brands,” says long-serving Sincere chief executive Ong Ban, “At the same time, it was also a launchpad for what we thought were the future stars of the industry.” Projects like the first SHH helped established Sincere as one of the three biggest watch retailers in Southeast Asia, alongside Cortina Watch and The Hour Glass. But after several changes in ownership, S...
Time+Tide
One of the biggest gripes in the watch marketplace is accessibility. For example, when the MoonSwatch launched, and it was revealed it would only be sold in boutiques, many were concerned they did not have a place to visit locally to purchase it. This is where e-commerce is crucial, opening the doors and giving people … ContinuedThe post Zenith launches e-commerce in Australia – boutique editions available now online! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Are Fossil Watches Any Good? Check out our detailed review to get the facts, insights, and unique photos you need to learn about this iconic watch brand!
Time+Tide
“I’m off fishing next week.” “Right I’ll overnight it to you.” Timing is everything, and this holds especially true in the horological world. Mike Blythe, founder of Draken Watches, had just received the first of his updated Kruger model, the Kruger SE, set for release on September 1, and there was a story that needed … ContinuedThe post Trout fishing in New Zealand with the Draken Kruger SE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Spanning the gamut from a wall clock to an elegant dress watch – this week's Vintage collection delivers.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton is now in its 20th year as a watchmaker. In that time it has gone from basic, ETA-powered watches to a variety of impressive complications, including its signature Spin Time, and even a minute repeater with automaton. To mark the occasion, Louis Vuitton (LV) has just announced the Tambour Twenty Chronograph, a remake modelled on the brand’s first serious mechanical timepiece. The two-decade journey has seen LV’s watchmaking division evolve from a shared space inside TAG Heuer’s factory to its own expansive facility in Geneva that includes not only a complications workshop but also its own dial-making facility. While LV does make some of its own movements now, the Tambour Twenty is a nod to its origins as a watchmaker. The 200-piece limited edition is modelled on the Tambour LV277 of 2003, the brand’s first chronograph that was powered by the Zenith El Primero. Initial thoughts Despite its odd proportions – a big case with tall, sloping sides and narrow lugs – the Tambour case is attractive in my eyes. And it’s distinctive and recognisable although its form is fairly simple. In short, it’s a successful design. The Tambour works especially well with complications since that gives its size – especially its thickness – a sense of purpose. Ordinarily I am not a fan of brown dials, but this is one of the few dials in the colour that looks good. LV executes its dials well – most of them are made in-house – and the reflective metallic brown o...
Time+Tide
For those who buy watches to wear in different situations, what context best suits the Olto-8 Infinity II? It could be in the seat of a race car, or even on the wrist of Tony Stark. Truthfully, the Olto-8 Infinity II wants to be worn anywhere, bringing it’s own high-octane energy into the dullest of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Welcome to Geneva Watch Days 2022. Slotted perfectly as a summer send off just as we start coming back from those much needed vacations, this year’s fair has lived up to it’s “last treat before returning to the real world” timing. Dozens of brands have come packing new heat as well as some much wanted … ContinuedThe post Ricardo’s Top 5 from Geneva Watch Days 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Norqain has become one of those brands that is synonymous with adventure. From tackling the great outdoors to becoming at one with mother nature. Yet, as other brands interpret adventure differently for men and ladies (often creating a dumbed down version of a more adequate watch), Norqain breaks the mold. They continue to highlight what … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Norqain impresses with the new Adventure Sport 37mm Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Osmium is so rare and dense, has such a high melting point, and is so hard to form or compress that it has very few practical uses. But earlier this year Czapek & Cie released the limited edition Antarctique Frozen Star S with an absolutely mind-blowing dial made of pure osmium crystals.
Time+Tide
We are wrapping up an exciting week here in Switzerland, with Geneva Watch Days 2022 coming to an end. Thirty brands brought the heat, giving us plenty to check out all over the city. It is a more casual vibe than what you would find inside the indoor Palexpo maze of Watches & Wonders, instead … ContinuedThe post GWD WIND DOWN: Geneva Watch Days wrap up and some big news… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Luxury watches sold by fashion brands will always be fighting an uphill battle to be taken seriously by elitist watch enthusiasts, but after two decades the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has definitely made more than enough compelling arguments for its legitimacy. Between the Tambour Spin Time, the Spin Time Air Quantum, and the artisanal-focused Tambour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's up for grabs at Phillips this November. Here's what you need to know about this highly significant George Daniels timekeeper.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Dom Toretto joins the Diesel family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Frederique Constant and Alpina are two brands that have existed under the Citizen Watch group umbrella for some time. Each bring something special to the table, whether it be through the movement innovations and timeless designs supplied by Frederique Constant or the bold, adventure-driven watches presented by Alpina. With Geneva Watch Days, each brand continues … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Frederique Constant and Alpina refine two of their classics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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While the last few releases from Dan Henry have focused on the post-WWI era of military chronographs, the micro-turned-major brand return to a more lighthearted spirit with their most “modern” watch so far - the Dan Henry 1975. While the concept of a diving watch rose throughout the 1950s and was popularised in the 1960s, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1975 is a diver that’s playful yet refined and costs under $300 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Geneva Watch Days, a trade show that began as a pandemic special, has now expanded way beyond its initial eight founding brands, with more than 20 exhibiting partners for its 2022 edition. I was happy to see so many independent brands showcased at the event, which will become painfully obvious in my top five picks … ContinuedThe post Borna’s top 5 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...
Hodinkee
Anyone want to buy a few of my watches?
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Today at Geneva Watch Days, Doxa unveiled one of their most anticipated releases since the recent shift in management; a standard production Doxa Army in stainless steel with a couple of bezel and color options to choose from.
Quill & Pad
Patrick Mouratoglou morphed from a frustrated player in his teens into today’s perennial supercoach; he is able to deal with the highly complicated psyche and game of an elite competitor just the way a horologist is qualified to finetune a supercomplication. And he is a Zenith ambassador. Learn all about him here thanks to tennis and timepiece writer Miguel Seabra!
Hodinkee
Nothing says party like a pink gold Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
SJX Watches
Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...
Time+Tide
In March this year, Bulgari released the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, only to be beaten again in July by the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari by just 0.05mm. While creating another record-breaking watch within a handful of months would be inconceivable, the Bulgari lineup for Geneva Watch Days offers an … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
MB&F; continues to extend their EVO lineup, with the new LM Split Escapement EVO. We got a hands-on and photography session with this novelty, and bring this you review as the embargo lifts for this watch. This novelty is the extension in two directions, so to speak. It extends the earlier LM Split Escapement andRead More
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When Doxa released a ceramic limited edition of their legendary Army watch with Watches of Switzerland, we all knew it would be a matter of time before this thrilling design would be made available to the masses. While it’s expected that some production models will modernise reissues to some extent, the Doxa Army offers the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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It’s getting harder and harder to stand out as a microbrand as dozens seem to pop up every week, but the most distinctive examples are always something special. Julian Michaels are the latest brand to forge an individual identity, but they do so without the need for any gimmicks or garish novelties. Instead, Julian Michaels … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Neil Armstrong's watch of choice is widely known to be the Omega Speedmaster Professional.The post The hunt for unsung vintage treasure: Neil Armstrong’s watch, but not the one you think appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
There is just something special about gold watches, and for thsi article, we are looking to explore some of the coolest gold timepieces.
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