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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

MICRO MONDAYS: The BOLDR Odyssey Freediver melds style and substance at an eyebrow-raising price Time+Tide
Boldr Odyssey Freediver melds style Dec 27, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The BOLDR Odyssey Freediver melds style and substance at an eyebrow-raising price

BOLDR is a well-established microbrand with a strong following, which we covered earlier this year in a story on their tough, keenly priced Venture titanium field watch. We suspect there might be something new coming in January (hint!) but, for the moment, let’s take a look at the rugged BOLDR Odyssey Freediver that’s recently been … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The BOLDR Odyssey Freediver melds style and substance at an eyebrow-raising price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Year in Review: The Best of Independent Watchmaking 2020 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Dec 27, 2020

Year in Review: The Best of Independent Watchmaking 2020

Twenty-twenty was a surprisingly good year in independent watchmaking – despite everything – with a fair number of compelling creations by watchmakers of all stripes. From Bernard Lederer at the top to Stefan Sarpaneva at the other end of the price spectrum, the watchmakers showed that the world of independent horology continued to turn in an abnormal year. Here’s a roundup of the best of 2020, led by the impressive and expensive, but also including the eminently affordable. In terms of pure technical achievement, Bernhard Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer is hard to top. Building on the work of George Daniels and Abraham Louis Breguet, Mr Lederer constructed a movement equipped with a double natural escapements, each with its own remontoir and powered by its own going train. While the design of the watch doesn’t do justice to the mechanics, the movement is outstanding. In fact, the only other watch in 2020 comparable to the Central Impulse Chronometer was surprisingly from an establishment brand, or more specifically a subsidiary of a big name, the FB 2RE by Ferdinand Berthoud, which has Chopard as its parent comment. The movement of the Central Impulse Chronometer. Photo – Bernhard Lederer Also conceived with chronometry in mind, the new Chronomètre à Résonance movement is very much a new and improved version of the original, which has become the hallmark watch of F.P. Journe. Now featuring a remontoir d’egalite for each going train – which mea...

Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m? Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona sell Dec 27, 2020

Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m?

Nothing over $1 million can really be called a bargain. Particularly when it’s a mere wristwatch from the Swinging Sixties. Yet we all know the stratospheric values paid for Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona 6241. The first one went for a mind-boggling and (then) world record $17.8 million USD back in 2017. Fast forward to the … ContinuedThe post Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Lessons Learned Free Ranging Peacocks (Peafowl): A Colorful Christmas ‘Tail’ (With Videos) Quill & Pad
Dec 26, 2020

Lessons Learned Free Ranging Peacocks (Peafowl): A Colorful Christmas ‘Tail’ (With Videos)

Peacocks on Quill & Pad? Well, if luxury is defined as an inessential, desirable item that is expensive or difficult to obtain, then peafowl surely fit the bill as well as any fine mechanical watch. Here Ian Skellern shares more than you are likely to ever need to know about free-ranging peacocks/peafowl, recounting his colorful journey to sharing a garden with Bonnie and Clyde along the way.

We followed every single round of the Fratello Omega Speedmaster World Cup in case you missed it, and the winner is… Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster World Cup Dec 26, 2020

We followed every single round of the Fratello Omega Speedmaster World Cup in case you missed it, and the winner is…

Which is the best Omega Speedmaster of all time? Our friends at Fratello Watches decided there was only one way to settle this one properly – by launching the Speedmaster World Cup. Over a gruelling tournament that lasted almost two months(!), 32 eager Speedies duked it out to determine who would be the ultimate victor. … ContinuedThe post We followed every single round of the Fratello Omega Speedmaster World Cup in case you missed it, and the winner is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Thor’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Greubel Forsey, Moser and Longines Time+Tide
Greubel Forsey Moser Dec 24, 2020

Thor’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Greubel Forsey, Moser and Longines

What were Thor’s 3 favourite watches of 2020? On a length-to-difficulty ratio, this piece ranks right up there in the difficulty stakes. Seriously, how am I supposed to sum up my three favourites of the whole year? In this bastard 12 months of lockdowns and cancelled holidays, there has been a deluge of delights from … ContinuedThe post Thor’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Greubel Forsey, Moser and Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Konstantin Chaykin Joker Santa Special Edition: Kitsch, Cute, Or Just What We All Need? Quill & Pad
Konstantin Chaykin Dec 23, 2020

Konstantin Chaykin Joker Santa Special Edition: Kitsch, Cute, Or Just What We All Need?

Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin’s holiday-themed Santa Wristmon is appropriately seasonal. And whatever you may think of Chaykin’s parade of themed faces in the wake of his ultra-successful Joker, you have to admit they’re really cute. They make Elizabeth Doerr smile every time she sees one. This one might give you all the feels at this time of year, too.

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy Time+Tide
Dec 23, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy

Raw sex appeal may have won Brad Pitt some of his early Hollywood roles. But rather than coast along on his dashing looks alone, the actor’s career has evolved to turn him into one of, if not the, biggest movie stars in the world. From Thelma & Louise to Fight Club and Moneyball to The … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now Time+Tide
Dec 22, 2020

5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now

When it comes to buying vintage watches, the phrase “buy the seller” should always be at the back of your mind. That’s because trust is always paramount when you’re buying anything pre-owned due to that nagging fear the watch you buy might not arrive at your door as advertised. This year, eBay has made a … ContinuedThe post 5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bays Dec 22, 2020

3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT

Having a relationship with brands and authorised dealers is something any watch collector strives for. If you’re thinking that a quick re-read of How to Make Friends and Influence People will help you with this, we have bad news. This connection is typically developed through purchase history rather than charm, genuine dialogue and friendship. Being a … ContinuedThe post 3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Highlights The Difference A Dial Makes With 2020 Saxonia Thin And Saxonia Outsize Date Models Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 21, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Highlights The Difference A Dial Makes With 2020 Saxonia Thin And Saxonia Outsize Date Models

Is a new dial color a new watch? Technically speaking, probably not. But a dial can make all the difference in a watch's character, which A. Lange & Söhne highlights with three new additions to the Saxonia collection. Even among the classically inclined collections of A. Lange & Söhne, for Martin Green the Saxonia line is the home of the brand’s ultimate dress watch.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Line Cut SJX Watches
Richard Mille s familiar case style. But Dec 21, 2020

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Line Cut

In a departure from its usual exuberant, Technicolor style, Franck Müller’s latest creation is slim, pared back, and monochromatic. An exclusive for its stores in France, the Vanguard Line Cut is a thin time-only watch entirely in sandblasted titanium, giving it a sleek, clean look. And priced a little under €10,000, it is also affordable as such things go. Initial thoughts While most of the Vanguard models feel derivative, or a bit much, the Line Cut seems just right in size, style, and price. It’s 41 mm wide, smallish by Franck Muller standards, and under 10 mm high, giving it the wide-but-thin proportions of many popular luxury-sports watches. And the pared-back look also extends to its colours and textures – the liberal use of sandblasted titanium is clean and suits the style, resulting in an aesthetic that’s both cohesive and attractive. But its water resistance is only 30 m, which is a bit less than typical for a sports watch. Not much was provided on the FM 708 movement inside, although the Franck Muller says it was developed specifically for this watch. Cintree Curvex Descended from Franck Muller’s signature Cintree Curvex tonneau-shaped watch, the Vanguard is a sports watch that does bear some resemblance to Richard Mille’s familiar case style. But the slimness of the Line Cut brings to mind instead the earliest watches of Franck Muller, which were mostly smaller and thinner than today’s models. The titanium case measures 41 mm by 50 mm, with a...

MB&F; x Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement Jules Verne: Science Fiction Stories Exquisitely Engraved In Metal Quill & Pad
MB&F; Dec 20, 2020

MB&F; x Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement Jules Verne: Science Fiction Stories Exquisitely Engraved In Metal

It’s no surprise that MB&F; would create a special limited series of Legacy Machines honoring Jules Verne and the type of retro-futurism found within his novels. Yet this project is also the artistic child of master engraver Eddy Jaquet who has worked with MB&F; for the last decade and was the driver behind the focus of each piece on and how to realize it. The results of these eight unique timepieces are simply spectacular.

INTRODUCING: The Zelos Watches Blacktip 200m is one of the best-value divers around Time+Tide
Dec 20, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Zelos Watches Blacktip 200m is one of the best-value divers around

Zelos Watches stand out for their well-honed design vision and obsession with details that puts them firmly on the microbrand podium. Elshan Tang, the owner and designer, releases a steady stream of new stock on their website, ranging from chunky bronze divers to dress watches with elaborate ETA movements. But whatever Zelos offer, it’s quickly … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zelos Watches Blacktip 200m is one of the best-value divers around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Greubel Forsey Names Antonio Calce CEO SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux where he had Dec 19, 2020

Business News: Greubel Forsey Names Antonio Calce CEO

Perhaps the leading maker of avant-garde and exotic tourbillon wristwatches, Greubel Forsey has just appointed Antonio Calce as chief executive officer. Having spent the early years of his career at Panerai in product development and then overseeing its manufacture, Mr Calce then became chief executive of Corum, and subsequently Eterna as well. Next came the top job at Girard-Perregaux, where he had a mandate to turn it around but departed before his plans gained traction. At Greubel Forsey, Mr Calce succeeds Fabrice Deschanel, who became chief executive officer of Greubel Forsey in 2017 after several years as head of Audemars Piguet’s complications subsidiary Renaud & Papi. The recently-launched Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Commenting in the announcement, Robert Greubel stated, “I am convinced Antonio will carry the Greubel Forsey signature a long way, all the while respecting our values and our DNA.” Mr Greubel remains chairman of the board, while fellow cofounder Stephen Forsey continues in his role helming product and movement development. While the role of Greubel Forsey chief executive was historically one and the same with the top job at Complitime, Greubel Forsey’s sister company that builds complications for other brands, Mr Calce’s new role is only overseeing Greubel Forsey.  

Five people who made watches sexy again… Time+Tide
Dec 19, 2020

Five people who made watches sexy again…

One of the reasons that watch collecting is so fascinating is its thematic diversity. A timepiece is a wrist-bound intersection for history, culture and the audacity of the human spirit. The only thing is that – whisper it quietly – it’s not always particularly sexy. Eyed from certain angles, the watch world often looks to … ContinuedThe post Five people who made watches sexy again… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Dec 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition

Grand Seiko has been celebrating its 60th Anniversary these past few weeks and months, but during today’s Grand Seiko USA webinar some huge news was announced regarding the future of Grand Seiko USA, as well as a new watch – the Grand Seiko SBGE263 US Limited Edition. The 110 watches are a nod to the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.