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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Masahiro Kikuno Oct 23, 2020

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker

Fine finishing in high-end watchmaking automatically brings to mind polished bevels, black-polished steel, Cotes de Geneve, blueing, and even perlage. But less thought is given to frosting, even though it is prominent in the grandest of timepieces made by leading independent watchmakers. Put simply, frosting is the treatment of a metal to create an uneven, pitted surface. A beautifully rough finish, frosting dulls the appearance of the component it is applied to. Many brands rely on the technique for decoration, but often in strikingly different forms. Akrivia, Greubel Forsey, Masahiro Kikuno, and Roger W. Smith are all known for their frosted finishes, but each differs from the other in technique and aesthetic effect. The frosted bridges on the front of the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Heroes and sidekicks When it comes to finishing methods in horology, I like to separate them into two categories: heroes and sidekicks. The sidekicks – such as perlage, graining, and of course frosting – are the methods that help the heroes stand out. Do not think any less of the sidekicks because without them, the heroes would not get the attention they deserve. The heroes are the methods that make you wonder: “This is beautiful – how did they do that?” Black polishing, blueing and engraving are just a few of them. As in the comic books, heroes and sidekicks work together to make each other look good. But as is frequently the case in fiction, sidekicks are often forgotten. Take fo...

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel Oct 22, 2020

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has seen the update it was waiting for this year, with the announcement in January that it was going to be produced in steel. The months since that announcement have felt both very slow and very fast at the same time, and some may have missed that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Oct 22, 2020

Fugue Introduces the Fiction One

Founded just three years ago, Fugue got its start with a watch featuring a modular case with interchangeable lugs. The brand’s second model is altogether more interesting, the Fiction One. Powered by an automatic Sellita movement, the Fiction One has an intriguing mystery dial – the hands appear to be floating over its surface with no connection to the central axis. Available for pre-order on crowdfunding platform Kickstarter until end October, the Fiction One is available in two dial variations, white and smoked grey. And it is affordable, with a price of €350, or about US$420. [Update December 10, 2020: The original Kickstarter campaign for the watch did not meet its target, but Fugue is doing it a second time, offering the watch at a slightly lower price, as well as a smaller minimum quantity. The new campaign closes January 8, 2021.] Initial thoughts “Microbrands” tend to capitalise on designs that are the flavour of the day, reusing classic sports-watch designs for affordable watches. So amidst its crowdfunded peers, the Fiction One is refreshing. That said, the mystery time display is an old invention, dating to early 19th century when it was invented by French magician Jean-Eugène Robert Houdin.And in the mid 20th century, the Galaxy watch with mystery hands was produced by several brands, most notably LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Longines. Fugue takes inspiration from those wristwatches, successfully reinterpreting the idea to create something mod...

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2020

Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes…

This year has been remarkable in many ways. I’ve lost track of how many times I’ve said to myself, “Well, I never thought I’d see that happen in my lifetime.” Despite these surprises, the watch industry has demonstrated a remarkable stability. Sure, we lost a few trade shows. But there was also a regular flow … ContinuedThe post Are high-value vintage watches pandemic-proof? The auction market results from 2020 say yes… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium time-only – Oct 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh

The strangest feeling is to be had when you first put on the Bulgari Aluminium time-only - if you actually get it on in the first place. Holding it makes you do a double take and shift it from left to right hand as if to check your own function as a makeshift human set of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2020

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro

Watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres. The movements powering wristwatches are effectively a tiny city of gears and levers, that when blown up to a larger scale, become a chronometric Atlantis waiting to be explored and appreciated. One of the first things people notice when looking at a dial of a watch is … ContinuedThe post Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection Time+Tide
Massena Lab Uni-Racer Oct 20, 2020

INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection

From the secret lab of William Massena we have come to expect the unexpected. The LAB has a short but exciting history of sharp collaborations with a disruptive edge, exhibiting a wide scope of taste and style. This exciting new model is a case in point, with the last public project being a brilliant vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Massena LAB Uni-Racer, the first in-house production from Massena LAB, with a fresh take on vintage chronograph perfection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 200 C-GRAPH – Oct 19, 2020

HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years

It is fair to argue that the two most popular watch categories that find their way onto the wrists of buyers around the world are dive watches and chronographs. Both have their merits and are classic staples of the watch industry, but what if there was a way to have both? The DOXA SUB 200 … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The DOXA SUB 200 C-GRAPH – the most colourful chronographs we’ve seen in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 19, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020

As it did for several anniversaries before – but against a vastly different landscape in the past – Panerai has just announced the Radiomir Paneristi 45mm PAM02020 for the 20th anniversary of its collector forum. The PAM 2020 is a hand-wind, 45 mm Radiomir with a steel case finished with an faux-patina treatment, and an inappropriately large anniversary logo on the front (and an even larger one on the back). Initial thoughts This is the sixth Paneristi edition. Six editions ago, Paneristi was arguably the most fanatical watch forum dedicated to the hottest brand in the world. The first Paneristi edition, the PAM 195 of 2003, sold out in an instant, and despite all of them having the owner’s name engraved on the back, sold for many multiples of the original retail price on the secondary market. But times have changed. Although Panerai describes the new Paneristi Radiomir as “the result of an intense creative process involving close collaboration between… Panerai’s technical and creative team… and the Paneristi”, it is neither intense nor creative. The emblem on the dial might be engraved like it is on vintage Panerai, but it looks unattractive. And “Venti”, which is Italian for “twenty”, between the lugs regrettably brings to mind the extra-large Starbucks coffee. The dial colour and finish does look good, however, and the faux-aged case (identical to that on the Radiomir PAM 992) is also appealing. And for €6,500 this is reasonably priced, though...

Paulin Introduces the Neo SJX Watches
Oct 19, 2020

Paulin Introduces the Neo

Founded in 2013 by the Paulin sisters, descendants of Scottish sculptor George Henry Paulin who is most famous for his war memorials across the United Kingdom, Paulin was conceived as a locally-designed watch brand focused on minimalist and monochromatic watches. And now the Glasgow-based brand introduces the Neo, a watch with 1970s flavour that the brand’s first to feature a colourful dial, either in blue, yellow, and white. More notably, the Neo is the result of a collaboration with fellow Scottish watchmaker Anordain, best known for its accessibly-priced enamel dials. Initial thoughts Put simply, the Neo is a solid offering with playful colours and in-house typography in an amiable, 38 mm package. It was realised in an unusual three-way collaboration between Paulin, local jeweller Helen Swan, and anOrdain (which was founded by the husband of one of the Paulin sisters). Paulin and Anordain have both been successful in creating original, affordable watches, but their respective offerings differ in style and price. Paulin has kept to simple, coloured dials for its watches, while Anordain made a name for itself with vitreous enamel dials. The Anordain Model 2 with a purple enamel dial As a result, the collaboration between the two is interesting, since it bridges two brands that are similar yet different. The Neo injects the fun and colour of anOrdain into the more affordable Paulin timepiece. The dial of the Neo is anodised aluminium, and not enamel, but entirely suitab...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Oct 19, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue

A proven trend within the world of watches is for brands to reinterpret historic models within their archives for modern-day release. Seiko has revived and renewed one of their classic ’70s divers with the new Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. ⁣ The case While slightly larger than the original, the Seiko Prospex SPB183J … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB183J 55th Anniversary Limited Edition is back in blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective SJX Watches
Oct 18, 2020

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective

I recently had a wide-ranging conversation with a fellow collector during which the following question was raised: is it possible for one watch to be objectively better than another? While pondering this question, I was reminded of Euthyphro, a Socratic dialogue written by Plato.  The “TL;DR” version is this: Plato asks Euthyphro if he can provide a definition of piety. Euthyphro responds with a clear-cut example of piety, but Plato is unsatisfied. He responds that an example is not enough; he wants the underlying rules that define piety, those by which Euthyphro chose his example. So it is with watches. We can all point to examples of great watches, and to some extent we can defend these examples with some kind of justification. But it’s very difficult, if not impossible, to articulate a set of criteria that can be applied universally – a necessary precondition of truly objective comparison. But as an exercise, I think it’s worth exploring in what ways, specifically, watch collecting defies objective analysis so that we can understand the limitations of this way of thinking.  Defining objectivity Objectivity is, according to the Cambridge Dictionary, “the quality of being able to make a decision or judgment in a fair way that is not influenced by personal feelings or beliefs”. Objectively, there’s not much more to a watch than its size, shape, colour, materials, and functions. A lot of the criteria collectors use to make value judgements about watches ...

Design a Seiko 5 Sports online with the Custom Watch Beatmaker, get lots of votes, and see it released by Seiko Time+Tide
Seiko 5 Sports online Oct 18, 2020

Design a Seiko 5 Sports online with the Custom Watch Beatmaker, get lots of votes, and see it released by Seiko

Seiko 5 Sports has just announced a global digital campaign, “CUSTOM WATCH BEATMAKER” which will run from October 19, 2020 to the end of January 2021. Having just gone through the process, this is a super fun customisation process that also has you name your bespoke watch. A track created for the campaign by an up-and-coming … ContinuedThe post Design a Seiko 5 Sports online with the Custom Watch Beatmaker, get lots of votes, and see it released by Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: My biggest 180 of 2020 is admitted in this video about the new Bulgari Bulgari Aluminium Collection… Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux regarding Oct 18, 2020

VIDEO: My biggest 180 of 2020 is admitted in this video about the new Bulgari Bulgari Aluminium Collection…

It seems to happen about once a year. I must sheepishly admit that I was wrong about a watch. In 2019, I offered a full retraction to Girard-Perregaux regarding the Laureato, a watch that I not only came to love but purchase. In 2020, it’s apology time once again. And this time, it’s to the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: My biggest 180 of 2020 is admitted in this video about the new Bulgari Bulgari Aluminium Collection… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Ceramic Time+Tide
Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Oct 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Ceramic

It’s hard to believe it’s been four decades since the inception of arguably the most disruptive and provocative watchmaker in modern history. But we are indeed celebrating their 40th birthday and their first-ever watch – the Classic Original, otherwise known as the OG gold watch with a rubber strap. To commemorate the milestone, Hublot has … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot 40 Years Anniversary Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present Time+Tide
Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch Oct 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present

For many around the world, one of the unexpected side effects of a global pandemic is spending a lot more time on the couch watching Netflix. And if that’s something you can relate to, then you have probably watched (or at least been recommended to watch) The Social Dilemma, a documentary about the addictive elements … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bausele Vintage 2.0 Hybrid SmartWatch blends past and present appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Deployant
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox DEPLOYANT Oct 17, 2020

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox

Underwater, accomplished and amateur divers alike need to rely on equipment that is impeccable both in terms of precision and safety. While previous models of the Polaris automatic only came with 100m water resistance, the dive styled watch is now a dive ready watch with the upgraded 300m water resistance. The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is also equipped with this update in an attractive blue sunburst dial.

One watch brand dominates the wrists of the LA Lakers, 2020 NBA champions Time+Tide
Oct 16, 2020

One watch brand dominates the wrists of the LA Lakers, 2020 NBA champions

2020 has definitely been a chaotic year with the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic worldwide. Blockbuster films have been delayed, major music festivals cancelled, but at least one American pastime managed to go on relatively unscathed – NBA Basketball. Twenty-two teams participated in the 2020 NBA season, held within a quarantined bubble that both players and staff … ContinuedThe post One watch brand dominates the wrists of the LA Lakers, 2020 NBA champions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Oct 15, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition

Zenith had a surprise hit last year with the El Primero A384 Lupin The Third, a limited edition modelled on a fictional Zenith chronograph found in the Lupin III manga and anime series. Though available only in Japan, the 50-piece edition gained traction internationally with its striking gold-and-black livery. Now another Zenith watch found in the Japanese comic has been realised as the Chronomaster Revival Lupin The Third – 2nd Edition. Launched to coincide with the opening of Zenith’s new boutique in Tokyo’s posh Ginza district, the new Lupin edition is a “panda” – featuring a white dial with black sub-dials as well as a parchment-coloured Super-Luminova. It’s based on the El Primero A384, a faithful remake of the vintage original of the same name, and shares the same specs. Initial thoughts The second Lupin edition lacks the high-contrast look of the first, but it does have a more classically vintage look that goes well with the angular A384 case. Zenith – or more accurately, the artist behind Lupin III, Monkey Punch – smartly removed most of the branding under 12 o’clock. The traditional four lines of text is now just one, bringing to mind similarly-clean Zenith dials of the 1970s. Perhaps the only weakness of the new edition is the short interval between this and the last one, about 11 months but feeling like a shorter span of time. And the new edition of 200 pieces is not large by watch industry standards, but substantially larger than the 50-pi...