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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Three watches I wish that Omega, TAG Heuer and Tudor made… Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aug 27, 2021

Three watches I wish that Omega, TAG Heuer and Tudor made…

It’s inevitable that you’ll get to a point in your collecting life where you hit a wall. You find a watch you love. Everything about it is perfect. Well, almost everything. Try as hard as you can, there are a handful of things that keep you from taking that last step into ownership. This is … ContinuedThe post Three watches I wish that Omega, TAG Heuer and Tudor made… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers SJX Watches
F.P. Journe seeks out Aug 26, 2021

Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers

Every year F.P. Journe seeks out the world’s most promising young clock- and watchmakers and selects one, or sometimes a handful, to receive the year’s F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition prize. The 2022 contest is now open for submissions. Contestants must be between the ages of 18 and 30 years old, and have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”. A jury of industry notables, including Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe himself, will then decide on the winner, who receives a CHF20,000 grant. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, who devised a secular perpetual calendar clock. Past winners include Russian watchmaker Anton Suhanov, who has built monumental table clocks, including one with a triple-axis tourbillon within a metal flower, and Remy Cools, who unveiled his first wristwatch tourbillon not too long ago. To enter the contest, submit your entry on fpjourne.com. The deadline for submissions is February 25, 2022.  

Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph     Time+Tide
Aug 26, 2021

Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph    

Walk into a room of watch enthusiasts and mention Bamford London. The first thing that comes to the mind of pretty much anyone you talk to is the brand’s amazing GMTs, flavoured in a broad array of colours. While being synonymous with a specific collection in your catalogue isn’t necessarily a bad thing, most brands … ContinuedThe post Bamford takes a step out of their comfort zone with a cracking monopusher chronograph     appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hour Striker Made Surprisingly Affordable SJX Watches
Aug 25, 2021

The Hour Striker Made Surprisingly Affordable

A German brand with a specific and quirky focus, Meistersinger produces watches with only one hand that simultaneous indicates the hours and minutes. Having been founded in 2001, Meistersinger has rolled out a variety of one-handed watches in its two decades, but earlier this year it debuted perhaps the most interesting to date, the hour-striking Edition Bell Hora. A chiming watch for surprisingly little money, the Bell Hora strikes a single note at the top of every hour. It accomplishes that with a straightforward chiming module on top of a Sellita base movement, explaining its affordable price tag. First launched earlier this year with a metallic finish dial, the Bell Hora is now given a more classical, white-lacquered dial in a limited edition. Initial thoughts Meistersinger by and large only does one product, but in a vast number of iterations. To appreciate any of them, you have to like a single-handed watch, which is a good idea if executed right. In terms of design, Meistersinger’s offerings have been a mixed bag. The new Bell Hora fortunately gets it right. Bringing to mind vintage “multi-scale” chronographs, the white dial has evokes an old-school medical instruments. The watch is, however, quite large at 43 mm, and also thick at 13 mm high. But the Bell Hora does well where it matters. The base movement is a low-cost Sellita, which isn’t fancy but it is an hour striker: a single note is sounded at the top of every hour. For a bit over US$4,000, it’s...

Piaget Introduces the Mid-Size Polo 36 mm SJX Watches
Piaget Introduces Aug 25, 2021

Piaget Introduces the Mid-Size Polo 36 mm

After a major facelift in 2016, the Piaget Polo has evolved into a thin but sporty watch available in a variety of guises, including the ultra-thin, skeletonised version introduced earlier in the year. But all of the Polo models to date are masculine, with the smallest model a sizeable 42 mm in diameter (and the high complicated Emperador models even larger). Now Piaget has finally taken the covers off the Piaget Polo Date 36 mm, essentially a mid-sized version of the Polo sports watch. It’s a straightforward watch – automatic, three hands, and date – with either a little or a lot of bling. Initial thoughts Given the popularity of luxury-sports watches, the introduction of the Polo Date 36 mm is a natural progression, while also making sense since there are increasingly enthusiasts, both male and female, who want such watches in a smaller format. That said, the new Polo is primarily a feminine watch, especially since all versions are set with diamonds. Even the understated base model in steel with a blue dial has diamond hour markers. Price wise, the Polo Date 36 mm is pretty competitive, both against its larger sibling as well as alternatives from the competition. For instance, the steel version with diamond markers is priced at US$13,100, which is about 10% pricier than the 42 mm version – that doesn’t have any diamonds – and a lot more affordable than many high-end luxury-sports watches. Still, the Polo is fairly priced for what it is. They are executed ...

MICRO MONDAYS: Go green with the About Vintage x Kristian Haagen 1970 GMT Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Go green with the About Vintage x Kristian Haagen 1970 GMT

How many times have you ever turned to a buddy and said: “We should start our own watch brand”. Picture this: two childhood friends on vacation, Coronas in hand, watching a sunset over the ocean in Mexico. For the two founders of About Vintage it was a moment of creative zen. With a passion for … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Go green with the About Vintage x Kristian Haagen 1970 GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill Time+Tide
Fears Aug 25, 2021

“A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill

I’m going to put it out there and say there is no more charismatic person in today’s watch world than Fears managing director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. In an industry littered with formidable personalities – hi Jean-Claude Biver, Patrick Prunnaux and Georges Kern – there is something refreshing about he of the double-barrelled name, and that is … ContinuedThe post “A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What is the ultimate two-watch collection? The Time+Tide team have their say… Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2021

What is the ultimate two-watch collection? The Time+Tide team have their say…

Today we defer to the shrewd counsel of Rob Base and DJ E-Z Rock. As the eighties hip- hop duo so wisely put it: “It takes two to make a thing go alright”. And such advice can certainly apply to your watches. If you pick with true mastery then two watches are potentially all you’d … ContinuedThe post What is the ultimate two-watch collection? The Time+Tide team have their say… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial SJX Watches
Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 Aug 24, 2021

Massena Lab Introduces Habring2 with J.N. Shapiro Guilloche Dial

After two collaborations with Habring², Massena Lab has just taken the covers off its third joint project with the Austria watchmaker. Strikingly different from the earlier “sector” dial editions, the Erwin Lab03 is a step up in terms of dial decoration. Doing away with the printed sector dial of earlier editions, Massena Lab recruited American guillocheur J.N. Shapiro to create an engine-turned bronze dial with classical Roman numerals and Breguet hands. Initial thoughts Having three variations of one Habring² model in as many years might seem a lot, but Massena Lab has made each version distinctive, each is different enough to bear little resemblance to the stock Erwin. At the same time, the Erwin has appeal. It’s wearable and compact while having an interesting complication, a jumping seconds. Perhaps more elegant than the earlier Massena Lab Erwins, the LAB03 distinguishes itself from the typical guilloche-dial watch. The salmon colour is faddish, but the extra-large Roman numerals and absence of hour markers make the watch stand out from most Breguet-inspired watches. The highlight is definitely the hand-crafted dial. It’s made by Joshua Shapiro, a self-taught independent watchmaker and engine-turning specialist best known for pulling off the extremely intricate guilloche pattern of his own creation. At the same time, Mr Shapiro’s rising reputation certainly adds to the appeal of LAB03. Priced at US$9,450, the Lab03 is the most expensive Erwin from ...

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Aug 24, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow

The most extravagant watch to date in 2021 has arrived courtesy of Hublot – the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow. Combining Hublot’s signature porthole face with the integrated bracelet introduced last year, the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow has almost every surface set with coloured gemstones. And ticking away inside is an in-house movement with a tourbillon and clear sapphire bridges. Initial thoughts Rainbow watches are the “it” watches of our era, with the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” being the most famous of the multi-coloured, gem-set timepieces. But now Hublot has taken it to the outlandish next level. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow is a lot, probably too much, but it’s also a stunning example of gem setting – proof comes in the form of 36 carats of stones – with an unusually interesting movement. The movement will probably be overlooked by whoever buys either of the two unique examples, but it is quite accomplished in a technical sense: an automatic tourbillon wound by a micro-rotor, with everything held in place by clear sapphire bridges. Contrasting starkly with the densely saturated case, the movement is light and airy in its layout, with its wheels appearing to be floating within the case thanks to the transparent bridges. The only glaring shortcoming in its technical features is the Etachron regulator index for the tourbillon. It’s entirely functional, but typically found in less expensive watches. Even though I would not ...

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Aug 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Edition

Recently we covered the Grand Seiko SBGY007, its icy blue dial inspired by the frozen waters of Lake Suwa. Its blue hue could only be described as subtle, the blue only emboldening itself under the right light. Today, however, the brand has introduced yet another limited-edition novelty in honour of the 140th Anniversary of Seiko’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SLGA007 140th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mumm RSRV R. Lalou 2006 Champagne: A Revelation (With Or Without Usain Bolt) Quill & Pad
Aug 23, 2021

Mumm RSRV R. Lalou 2006 Champagne: A Revelation (With Or Without Usain Bolt)

Mumm Champagne has wonderful history, but then for a period it seemed to descend into little more than a discount producer. More recently, there appeared to be a serious intent to return to the glory days when this house was seen as one of the greats. Ken Gargett thinks that Mumm's RSRV R. Lalou 2006 is a revelation. Rich and complex with honeycomb notes and some butterscotch. Great length. Finely balanced.

Crossing the threshold: The first time I bought a watch over $1000 Time+Tide
Aug 21, 2021

Crossing the threshold: The first time I bought a watch over $1000

Many of us within the watch community can remember the moment we fell in love with a piece. Whether it was a textured dial or a complication that caught our interest, that moment creates a sense of euphoria that’s impossible to forget. Immediately following that high, we come back down to earth and commence “The … ContinuedThe post Crossing the threshold: The first time I bought a watch over $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition

Often our readers really respond to watches that are released by the less usual suspects. Something different and more approachable, that still serves up a serious level of quality and value to the prospective buyer. Hanhart may not be a household name, but it’s a storied German watch manufacture, established in 1882, with a rich … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hanhart Introduces the Flieger Friday Edition SJX Watches
Aug 20, 2021

Hanhart Introduces the Flieger Friday Edition

Historically the world’s leading producer of mechanical stopwatches – the sort once standard issue at athletic meets – Hanhart has shifted its focus to sports chronographs in recent years. Most of them are based on the brand’s vintage watches from the early- to mid- 20th century, especially the distinctive pilot’s chronographs it supplied to the German air force. While some of its offerings are remakes, the brand’s latest is an overtly modern take on the 1930s pilot’s chronograph. The #FliegerFriday Edition combines a black-coated steel case with a dark blue dial as well as the brand’s trademark red reset pusher. With the origins of the design are vintage, the Flieger Friday Edition has a calculated casual style that stems from its inspiration – the social media hashtag #FliegerFriday, which refers to wearing a pilot’s watch over the weekend. Initial thoughts Hanhart is not short of vintage remakes – usually executed with signature elements like a red pusher or knurled bezel – so the modern style of the Flieger Friday Edition is unusual and welcome. Admittedly the blue-dial sports chronograph formula is well used, but here it’s done with a little more novelty by pairing the dial with a steel case coated in black diamond-like-carbon (DLC). Add to that the splash of red, and the result is a striking watch that does live up to the hashtag’s basis of a fun, weekend watch. The watch is reasonably priced at US$2,700, which is not much more than the...

Watch fetishes are officially a “thing”. Here’s a list of the most common (and kinky) Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

Watch fetishes are officially a “thing”. Here’s a list of the most common (and kinky)

When you think about it, this is all thuddingly inevitable. After all, if you can imagine a kink, the chances are that it not only exists, but there are already multiple live web-cams devoted to servicing it in eye-popping detail. And we’re not here to judge. As long as it’s safe and consensual and so … ContinuedThe post Watch fetishes are officially a “thing”. Here’s a list of the most common (and kinky) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers

It was Voltaire that said: “If God did not exist, it would be necessary to invent him”. The same can be said of watch auctions and two people of note in the watch industry, collector and dealer Eric Ku and retailer Justin Gruenberg.  An online auction platform that worked for them did not exist, so … ContinuedThe post Introducing Loupe This, a highly evolved online watch auction platform for buyers and sellers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.