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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Let Them Eat Cake: The Intriguing Story Of Marie Antoinette And Her Legendary Breguet Pocket Watch No. 160 – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Pocket Watch No 160 Jun 13, 2020

Let Them Eat Cake: The Intriguing Story Of Marie Antoinette And Her Legendary Breguet Pocket Watch No. 160 – Reprise

In 1783, just as the queen of France, Marie Antoinette, was sitting for a portrait, an officer of the queen’s guard visited Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop: Queen Marie Antoinette desired a pocket watch containing all known horological complications at the time. It took 44 years to complete and is perhaps the most famous watch in history, as much for its intriguing story as its ingenious mechanics.

VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Jun 12, 2020

VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay

Well, it’s been almost better than the real thing, and certainly as epic in terms of the length of the videos, but it’s over – it’s part 3 of 3 of our Home Delivery Watch Fair Basel Edition! And to finish, we’re doing what we do at the end of all watch fairs. A list. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: It’s part 3/3 of (pretend) Baselworld 2020, buckle up for 40 minutes of Seiko, Grand Seiko and Chris Hemsworth from his home in Byron Bay appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jun 12, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia

One of the grandest and oldest watchmakers in the world, Breguet was founded in 1775 and usually sticks to watches very much rooted in tradition. Even its high jewellery timepieces are elaborate and lavish, but still old school. The new Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia, however, is a strikingly lively, ocean-inspired jewellery watch. Named after the Posidonia oceanica, a seagrass found the Mediterranean sometimes known as Neptune grass, the new Marine has an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial invisibly set with 85 gemstones to form an elegant floating-seagrass motif surrounded by baguette-cut gemstones. It’s very different from the usual Breguet fare – in a good way – especially in the coloured gemstone versions. The Poseidonia is available four variations, each distinguished by the combination of gemstones. While the diamond version is set only with diamonds, the emerald, ruby, and sapphire models are each set with a variety of gems – amethysts and tsavorites on the sapphire version for instance – to create a rainbow-hued decor. The ruby And emerald Initial thoughts Breguet has a penchant for making high-jewellery timepieces inspired by nature. Thematically, the Poseidonia is no different, but it is far, far more spectacular in visual effect. Going by the photos, the watch will no doubt be dazzling and unapologetically luxe – and a world away from the restrained elegance of the Marine for men. Watches that have been liberally set with gems tend to b...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Blue SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Jun 11, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Skeleton Blue

Unveiled just last year, the Bell & Ross BR 05 was yet another luxury-sports watch with an integrated bracelets, but priced more affordably than the average. The flagship model of the line up was the BR 05 Skeleton, an urban and contemporary open-worked watch that’s just been given a new look. The BR 05 Skeleton Blue is essentially the same as last year’s model, but facelifted with a blue-tinted sapphire dial that gives it a punchier look. Initial thoughts The BR 05 is one of my favourites from Bell & Ross. The design blends the key elements of the brand’s flagship military-aviation watches like the BR 01 and BR 03, and incorporates them into a case that is modern and sharp, giving it arguably greater mainstream appeal than the military-inspired pilot’s watches. While the BR 01 and BR 03 are undoubtedly icons, their tool-like appearance and large case – 46 mm and 42 mm respectively – definitely dissuade some. On the other hand, the BR 05 is much more manageable on the wrist at 40 mm wide and 10.4 mm in height. Though it’s smaller than the BR 01 and BR 03, the case is architectural in form, and features myriad textures – polished and satin-brushed surfaces, often separated by polished bevels. The result is a smallish but appealing case that manages to look three-dimensional. I feel that the BR 05 Skeleton works better as a whole, compared to its solid-dial counterparts. The open-worked movement enhances the visual depth of the watch. While the blue-tinte...

Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain Dial “Suigetsu” SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Jun 9, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Presage Arita Porcelain Dial “Suigetsu”

Having gained a big following for its tremendous value proposition, the Seiko Presage collection often features dials in artisanal finishes such as fired enamel and urushi, combined with solid movements and affordable prices. The latest to join the collection is the Presage Arita Porcelain Dial “Suigetsu”, which has a pure-white porcelain dial matched with dark blue hands and markers. The colours of the watch take inspiration from Suigetsu (水月) – literally as “water moon” – which describes a subtle, ethereal beauty that might be an illusion. It is also a nod to Tsukimi, which translates as “viewing the moon”, the Japanese autumn moon festival where the moon’s reflection on water is admired. Initial thoughts The Presage collection does democratise the artisanal methods used for dial making, the fairly large limited-edition runs dampen the appeal of each release. Even though the dials are made in large numbers, the dial-making process is complex and artisanal. But the new Presage is priced at only US$2,050, which makes it pretty much a bargain, just like many of the other Presage limited editions. I have always found porcelain dials to have a richer and more profound depth and texture when compared with enamel dials, although both have a similar glossy, smooth appearance. The Arita porcelain dials are exceptional for the price, boasting a silky and creamy finish that’s one of the most appealing dials found on a watch in this price range. Because ...

INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight Time+Tide
Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Jun 9, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight

First, we had the Limited Edition ‘Moonlit Night’, and now we have a brand new Limited Edition porcelain dial model inspired by Suigetsu, a Japanese tradition which celebrates the beauty of the moon reflected in water. If you needed another reason to be entranced by this stunning, liquid white porcelain dial, there it is – a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko SPB171 Limited Edition Arita Porcelain Dial, a liquid white delight appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jun 8, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition

To mark the recent opening of its first store in continental Europe – and its biggest boutique in the world – Grand Seiko has unveiled the Paris Vendôme Limited Edition, either in platinum (SBGK011) or rose gold (SBGK013). With a dial motif inspired by the streets of Paris, the limited edition is powered by the 9S63 movement. Located at the corner of the posh Place Vendôme famous for being home to jewellers and the Hôtel Ritz, the new Grand Seiko boutique is the brand’s largest store ever, with a floor area of over 190 square metres (or some 2000 square feet) spread over two floors. Distinctly Japanese in style and materials – the floors are tatami and the screens, bamboo – the is the work of Kengo Kuma, one of Japan’s leading contemporary architects. The Grand Seiko Boutique Paris Vendôme Grand Seiko’s location on the square with the entrance to the store at the lower right corner of the photo, adjacent to the white awning Initial thoughts If the limited editions look familiar, it’s for good reason – they are based on the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection introduced last year, featuring the same case, movement, and dial layout.  The refined dimensions of the Elegance Collection immediately made it one of my favourites of the Grand Seiko collection. Although Grand Seiko watches are well designed and equipped with great movements, the cases tend to wear large and thick, something the Elegance Collection managed to avoid.  The 9S63 as seen in a ...

MICRO MONDAYS: Serica watches, the revival of the affordable good watch Time+Tide
Serica watches Jun 8, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Serica watches, the revival of the affordable good watch

Serica was born only late last year when they were announced to the world as a brand that would offer a well-designed and robust timepiece at a fair price. They delivered in spades with their first watch, the Serica W.W.W. (standing for Wrist. Watch. Waterproof), inspired by the watches of the Second World War, where … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Serica watches, the revival of the affordable good watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bohematic Graphic Sutnar: Czech Watchmaking By Design Quill & Pad
Jun 5, 2020

Bohematic Graphic Sutnar: Czech Watchmaking By Design

The Bohematic Graphic Sutnar is an homage to Ladislav Sutnar, the most significant artistic figure in Czechoslovakia's interwar period of modernism. Sutnar was chosen as the historical figure to launch this brand-new micro brand and its first line. However, the Graphic Sutnar watch bears not only the name of the world-renowned artist, but also his unique font for the numerals. Find out what all that means right here!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jun 5, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Control Memovox and Memovox Timer

Having revived the Master Control models of 1992 earlier this year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) was surely going to do the same for one of its longest-lived complications, the vibrating Memovox alarm. And so it has, with two new alarm watches in fact: the Master Control Memovox and the Master Control Memovox Timer. Both are powered by the same base movement, but the limited-edition Memovox Timer features an additional countdown function for the alarm. The cal. 956 with an open-worked, pink gold rotor Initial thoughts The base-model Master Control Memovox looks just like the Memovox of 20 years ago, and it is a good look. Now the case finishing has been upgraded, as has the movement – which is now visible through a display back – creating a tidy package that’s just right. And price-wise the new model is comparable to recent JLC alarm watches, which is fair, albeit still a bit pricey. A little bit more funky and countdown scale in relief, the Master Control Memovox Timer is a lot more expensive, almost 35% more expensive than the base model. It does have an added countdown function to go along with the fancier dial, but it is too expensive. Ringing since 1951 The Master Control Memovox is a moderate 40 mm in diameter, though fairly thick at 12.39 mm, a necessary consequence of the movement. Compared to its namesake watch of the 1990s, the case has grown slightly larger, but more importantly has an improve finish. It features contrasting polished and brushed finished on the ...

Editorial: The Rise of the Indian Watch Collector SJX Watches
Rolex watches as most were Jun 5, 2020

Editorial: The Rise of the Indian Watch Collector

Years ago, while attending a wedding in the southern Indian state of Kerala, I noticed most men in attendance were uniformly dressed – crisp, white linen shirt and matching mundu. Some milled about, some laughed over the most recent ministerial gaffe making the rounds, and others waited impatiently for the evening to end. For an outsider, the plainness of their attire seemed at odds with the occasion they were attending, except for the occasional glint of gold on their wrists, which caught my eyes more often than I’d anticipated. The heavy lustre of their Rolex watches, as most were, stood out because of the simplicity of everything else. Observing closely one could notice the subtle nods of affirmation exchanged between the men as they glanced at each other’s timepieces. For a culture obsessed with jewellery – India is the world’s second-largest consumer of the precious metal according to the World Gold Council – the country has taken predictably well to fine watches. Timepieces in precious metals form a substantial proportion of the gifts given to grooms – a practice that is, in a small but undeniable way, bringing the appeal of horology to a larger, otherwise untapped audience. A market in its infancy But the sales of luxury watches in India are far lower in proportion to its population as compared to say, China. According to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH), Switzerland exported 1.99 billion Swiss francs of watches to China in ...

MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser SJX Watches
H. Moser Partners Jun 5, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser

Partners for more than a decade in the supply of hairsprings, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F; have recently announced their first watch collaboration. Both mark their 15th anniversaries with a pair of watches that each brand designed for the other, blending the defining traits of both. MB&F; helped styled the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F;, while Moser added its signature aesthetic to the LM101 MB&F; x H. Moser. A refreshing take on MB&F;’s simplest Legacy Machine, the new LM101 has a steel case and the option of four dial colours in Moser’s signature smoked finish – Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, red fumé, and Aqua Blue fumé – each limited to 15 pieces. The watch incorporates the aesthetic sensibilities of H. Moser & Cie on the front, along with a slight redesign of the movement. Initial thoughts Based on the photos, the new LM101 is one of the most appealing recent watches from MB&F;, though that isn’t really a surprise since it synthesises the elements that have made both brands successful – and the elements remain successful when combine together. The most apparent is the sunray-brushed, fumé dial that is very much Moser. Although the brand did not invent the look, the smoked finish has become synonymous with the brand – and the fumé effect also translates very well on the LM101. While the Moser fumé finish has been added, the traditional sub-dials (for the time and power reserve) of the LM101 have been removed. This streamlinin...

Business News: Frédéric Arnault Appointed Chief Executive of TAG Heuer SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Having joined TAG Heuer Jun 4, 2020

Business News: Frédéric Arnault Appointed Chief Executive of TAG Heuer

Having joined TAG Heuer in 2017, Frédéric Arnault has just been named the watchmaker’s boss, effective July 1. He succeeds Stephane Bianchi, who will then be elevated to head the newly-formed LVMH Watch and Jewellery division – a job that Mr Arnault is perhaps being groomed for – which encompasses the group’s three watch brands, which include Hublot and Zenith, as well as its smaller jewellery brands, Chaumet and Fred. The biggest LVMH jewellery brand, Bulgari, retains its standalone status. Bulgari chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin, who industry sources say enjoys a competitive rivalry with Mr Bianchi, will report only to the number two man in LVMH, Group Managing Director Antonio Belloni. Presumably Tiffany & Co., the American jeweller that LVMH is in the process of acquiring, will enjoy similar independence. A digital leader While Mr Arnault is the fourth son of Bernard Arnault, the founder and controlling shareholder of LVMH, the younger Arnault arrived in the watch business with an impressive résumé. The 25-year old graduated from France’s prestigious Ecole Polytechnique with a degree in Computational and Applied Mathematics, notching up internships at McKinsey and Facebook along the way. He started at TAG Heuer as head of connected watches, just as the brand was ramping up its push into smartwatches, before being promoted to Strategy and Digital Director in 2018, where he led the design of the latest-generation Connected watch. The recently launch...