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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Crushed by Antiques Roadshow – this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was… Time+Tide
Cartier pocket watch was not Jul 10, 2021

Crushed by Antiques Roadshow – this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was…

Antiques Roadshow is a source of a lot of fun for watch enthusiasts eagerly anticipating the appraisals of timepieces. Whether family heirlooms or watches bought while serving in the military, the people who bring their watches to be evaluated have their fingers crossed for high numbers – hoping they have hit the jackpot with their … ContinuedThe post Crushed by Antiques Roadshow – this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2021

Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can

In the line of duty, soldiers are routinely subjected to wildly stressful situations. How they handle that mental strain can make a vital difference to how they perform under pressure. Even when enemy bullets are whizzing about their heads, soldiers are required to maintain the necessary composure to think clearly and act decisively. Military training … ContinuedThe post Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual – Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 10, 2021

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual – Reprise

The date: January 13, 2012. The place: Glashütte, Germany, where one of my best friends had arranged for the two of us to visit A. Lange & Söhne. The vision: my friend extended his arm from the sleeve of his shirt, and what I saw left me reeling – my first view of the Lange Datograph Perpetual in white gold. I was confident from that very moment that this was a watch for me, but pursuit of the piece took four long years.

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 gives Jul 9, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade

The IWC Big Pilot is not quite so big anymore. That’s right, the new IWC Big Pilot 43 is now a full 3mm smaller in diameter compared to the previous 46mm generation, but doesn’t lose any of the impact that it has on the wrist. The iconic pilot’s watch has been updated to become more … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Big Pilot 43 gives an iconic watch a modern upgrade appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

No Surprise: First Green-Dial Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014 At Antiquorum’s July 2021 Auction In Monaco, Plus Other Highlights Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1A-014 Jul 9, 2021

No Surprise: First Green-Dial Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014 At Antiquorum’s July 2021 Auction In Monaco, Plus Other Highlights

Antiquorum will be holding its next auction in Monaco on July 21, 2021, where collectors will have a chance to bid for the very first time on a Patek Philippe Reference 5711/1A-014. Yes, this is the brand-new stainless steel Nautilus with olive-green dial introduced in April 2021 as the model replacing the blue-dialed Reference 5711/1A-010. While that's noteworthy, there are a number of other lots worth looking at too.

The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool Time+Tide
Casio n Jul 9, 2021

The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool

Note: This is a rather momentous occasion for me as a writer and Independents Editor for Time+Tide.  July 10 is my one-year anniversary for the site with 294 stories to my name, a number that boggles my mind (and that of my very, very patient and beautiful wife). It has been a crazy, loving ride … ContinuedThe post The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas Jul 9, 2021

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas for Hokusai

Debuted in 1931, the ubiquitous reversible watch is marking its 90th anniversary this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has rolled out several special editions for the occasion, from a digital hours to the uber Reverso with four faces. But the latest anniversary edition is pared-down in mechanics, but elaborately crafted. JLC turned to its enamel workshop for the Reverso Tribute Enamel, a time-only watch with both the dial and back decorated in grand feu enamel. Most remarkable is the miniature painting on the reverse of the case, which is a miniature version of Kirifuri Waterfall, a 19th century woodblock print by Hokusai, the Japanese artist most famous for The Great Wave off Kanagawa, a print depicting roaring waves with Mount Fuji in the distance (which JLC already put on the back of another Reverso three years ago). Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Enamel is a evidently a good looking watch. Simple on the front, looking similar to the standard model, the watch is discreetly captivating, thanks to the green, wavy guilloche dial that evokes the serene motion of the flowing water. And hidden until the case is flipped over is a miniature enamel painting that’s even more outstanding. The brand’s miniature enamelling has long ranked amongst the best in the industry – it was one of the first to establish an in-house enamel studio – and this watch shows that JLC has preserved its prowess. The back is a near-exact recreation of the original woodblock printing by Hokusa...

Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2021

Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history

Racing, diving, and pilot’s watches are the three pillars of the sports watch category. There is a lot of demand for these kinds of watches, and as a result there is a saturation of novelties in a familiar format. Zero West, however, takes things to the next level. Their watches are living mementos of history, … ContinuedThe post Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jul 8, 2021

The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future

In 2017, Rado decided to bring back their 1960s classic, the Captain Cook diver. Sparking positive reactions from the watch media, while making a strong connection with many a vintage watch lover’s heart, it became an instant success. Subsequently, Rado has refused to rest on their laurels by continuously evolving the line. We have seen … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic takes a bold leap into the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2021

Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki

I was fortunate enough to receive my Kurono Toki this week, and took to Instagram the day I received it to celebrate my new watch alert. Unknowingly, however, I was totally upstaged by none other than actor Alec Baldwin who had already shared his #NWA weeks earlier. This is truly what #watchfam loves to see. … ContinuedThe post Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh Jul 8, 2021

VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice

Last year, IWC focused on revamping their impressive Portugieser line. In 2021, it’s the turn of the IWC Pilot’s collection that’s expanded to offer greater choice than ever before with a veritable squadron of new pieces. Highlights include a new Big Pilot that’s downsized from the slightly intimidating 46mm to a more wearable 43mm option. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The IWC Pilot’s collection offers fresh sizes and a wider array of choice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov SJX Watches
Breguet numerals as well as Jul 7, 2021

The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov

Russian independent watchmaker Maxim Sushkov specialises in affordable custom timepieces, and has just unveiled his latest. Created for an Austrian client, the Watch Creative is a dress watch with classical elements like teardrop lugs and Breguet numerals, as well as a few striking, original details, such as the unusual, droplet-shaped hands. Initial thoughts While still niche, independent watchmaking has gained increasing traction in recent years. Its rising popularity has been accompanied with rising prices, both in the secondary market and at retail. A few watchmakers, however, continue to offer accessibly priced, original work. One such example is Mr Sushkov, who provides a channel for enthusiasts to commission one-off timepieces, appealing to collectors who fancy something unique but affordable. The Watch Creative illustrates Mr Sushkov’s work well. From the case with soldered lugs to the guilloche dial, it’s made up of a mix of stock and custom parts – with a good deal of work done by hand – resulting in a simple watch with interesting details. In fact, the custom execution make it a good value proposition at around US$4,200. This has little competition at the US$4,000 mark in a similar vein of customised watches, except for fellow Russian watchmakers like HoD (though it occasionally works with Mr Sushkov). An alternative similar priced but the complete opposite in concept is the Ophion Velos, a watch that is more polished and refined, but made by machine i...

Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best? Time+Tide
Rolex best? Let’s get ready Jul 7, 2021

Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best?

Let’s get ready to rumble in this horological battle with Rolex as the weapon of choice. In one corner, wearing his customary skinny jeans is Wiz Khalifa. The rap superstar has always been open about enjoying blinged-out wristwear. “So many rocks up in my watch I can’t tell what the time is,” he happily admitted … ContinuedThe post Wiz Khalifa versus Mia Khalifa – who wears Rolex best? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Jul 6, 2021

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 – And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe

At watch auctions by Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s held in 2020, the first year of the pandemic, 22 timepieces hammered for more than one million Swiss francs. And to date in 2021, there have been (at least) 13 watches selling for more than one million Swiss francs. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the top auction results of the pandemic era so far, and, yes, Patek Philippe still reigns supreme.

First Tudor boutique in Australia opens with launch of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Time+Tide
Tudor boutique Jul 6, 2021

First Tudor boutique in Australia opens with launch of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Tudor achieved a perfect storm in Australia recently – launching the first Tudor boutique in the country, and the 50th around the world, while at the same time unveiling another eye-catching new model – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. The third moment of note was the opportunity to meet in person the new General Manager … ContinuedThe post First Tudor boutique in Australia opens with launch of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch 2021: Breguet Type XX SJX Watches
Breguet Type XX Breguet has Jul 6, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Breguet Type XX

Breguet has an unexpectedly long history in military watches dating back over a century, but its best known military timepieces are undoubtedly the aviator’s chronographs made for the mid-century French Air Force and navy. It was one such watch that inspired the Type 20 Only Watch 2019. For this year’s Only Watch auction, Breguet turned pivoted to the civilian-market equivalent with the Type XX Only Watch 2021. Breguet incorporated details not found on the 2019 watch, namely a “Big Eye” register as well as a 12-hour bezel. Together, this and its predecessor form a perfect pair that encapsulate Breguet’s 20th century pilot’s chronographs. Initial thoughts The result achieved by the Type 20 at Only Watch 2019 – Breguet has supported the charity since its inauguration in 2005 – makes the motivation behind yet another pilot’s watch clear. While the technically-impressive in-line perpetual calendar created for Only Watch 2017 sold for CHF110,000, the Type 20 achieved fetched CHF210,000 – twice as much despite being a steel watch with a simple movement. The Type XX conveniently sticks to the same formula, making it almost interchangeable with the Type 20 at a distance. Most obvious is the milk-chocolate dial, which evokes the aged “tropical” dials of vintage examples. The rich, even colour allows it to stand on its own as a modern-day take on an old look. It’s achieves a nostalgic feel without trying too hard. But it is in exactly the same shade as ...

A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – Jul 6, 2021

A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people

The relationship between the Swatch Group and Tissot brings a host of benefits to the table. As the powerful parent company, the Swatch Group can deliver enviable command over economies of scale and a direct line to movement manufacturing with ETA. Being able to tap into such mighty resources enables Tissot to react quickly to … ContinuedThe post A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters Time+Tide
Omega Speedmasters Noah Lyles Jul 5, 2021

Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters

Noah Lyles is set to be one of the big attractions at the Tokyo Olympics. Despite being only 23 years old, he already boasts a 100m personal best of 9.86 seconds, while last week, in the U.S. Olympic track and field trials, Lyles ran the 200m in 19.74 seconds, the fastest time in the world … ContinuedThe post Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jul 5, 2021

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review

Pros: Comfortable on the wrist for long periods of wearUnlike previous models, the R734 movement is on display – the best one to dateGreat Build quality, High-tech ceramic is a winner for captain cook range Cons: Some may find it thick on the wrist compared to the other captain cook varients The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may not appreciate the blacked tinted sapphire crystal dial Over All Rating: 8.0/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there’s one watch brand that has earned the nickname “Master of Materials”, it is Rado. Being one of the biggest watch manufacturers in Switzerland, Rado uses the latest technology and innovation to create some unique materials for their watches.  Diving into the history of the brand, in 1960 they were the first to create the “world’s first scratchproof watch”, the DiaStar 1. This was done by innovation, through introducing materials into the watch industry that were not known at the time. Materials such as hard metal and sapphire crystal.  In 1970, Rado continued to innovate new materials by coming up with a scratch-resistant and high-tech ceramic bracelet called Rado Integral. This was arguably the first use of high-tech ceramic on a watch by Rado, and it would eventually become the brand’s signature material. In 1990, Rado really stepped things up in their use of ceramic, with this particular year being dubbed as “the cera...

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Heritage Perpetual Jul 4, 2021

INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel

After getting used to H.Moser’s futuristic offerings and extraordinary fumè dials, their Heritage line is a  collection that pays tribute to Heinrich Moser, the man behind the name. The new H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel invites you on a journey back to the brand’s traditional roots and may well sweep … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Heritage Perpetual Calendar Midnight Blue Enamel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Only Watch 2021: Krayon Anywhere “Impression, Sunrise” SJX Watches
Krayon Jul 3, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Krayon Anywhere “Impression, Sunrise”

Founded in 2013 by veteran movement constructor Rémi Maillat, Krayon made its debut with the impressive, enormously complex mechanical computer that calculates sunrise and sunset times in any location. It followed up with the more affordable Anywhere, which strikes a better balance between complexity and user friendliness. And now for Only Watch 2021, Krayon is taking the Anywhere to the next level with a metiers d’art dial. The Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2021 features a lacquer dial inspired by Monet’s Impression, Sunrise. Initial thoughts The standard Anywhere is compelling to begin with, complex but executed in thoughtful manner. Despite being ultra complicated – the movement is made up of over 430 components, rivalling a split-seconds chronograph – the Anywhere is rather easy to read and operate, as well as being wearable at just 39 mm wide and 9.5 mm high. But the original design arguably left room for improvement. The hour markers, for instance, seem to interrupt the styling of the dial. And it appears that the Only Watch edition has picked up where the original left off by refining the dial design. The highlight is the dial centre that’s a reinterpretation of Impression, Sunrise by Claude Monet, a thematically-congruent decoration since both the watch and painting are centred on the Sun. Like the painting, the dial is Impressionist in its execution: the Sun rising over water is only visible at a distance. Also notable is the movement inside, which is...

Only Watch 2021: Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” While several Jul 2, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa”

While several of the watchmakers taking part in Only Watch 2021 have turned to historical timepieces for inspiration, all have created new watches for the biennial charity auction, except for Urwerk. An intriguing blend of new and vintage, the UR-102 “Gaïa” is actually one of the brand’s earliest watches that’s been given a new case back decor. Launched in 1997, the UR-102 had a low-cost aluminium case contrasted with a platinum case back, along with a wandering hours display. Urwerk retrieved an original example of the UR-102 to create the Gaïa, which is named after the watchmaking industry prize Urwerk’s twin founders received in 2020. The Gaïa preserves the aluminium case and movement, but its platinum back has been finished with a speckled, blue-lacquer motif inspired by the Gaïa Prize trophy. Initial thoughts While the complexity and materials of the UR-102 “Gaïa” pale in comparison to the brand’s modern-day creations, the Gaïa is significant for the brand both intrinsically and philosophically. The watch itself is historically important, being one of the brand’s first watches, while the reference to the Gaïa Prize is a symbol of Urwerk’s success since the difficult early days when the UR-102 was introduced. In fact, the watch encapsulates Urwerk’s progress over the past 25 years in a tangible sense, with the aluminium case of its early days now bearing the Gaïa Prize motif that exemplifies its success. UFO The Gaïa retains much of th...