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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Mouse King SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Jan 24, 2020

Konstantin Chaykin Introduces the Mouse King

Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin had a hit on his hands when he unveiled the Joker at Baselworld 2017. Inspired by the “moving eye” clocks invented by German clockmaker J. Oswald in 1926, the Joker has since been iterated into several new versions, including the one-off Joker Selfie that sold for 75,000 Swiss francs at last year’s Only Watch charity auction. To mark the upcoming Chinese Year of the Rat, Konstantin has created a special variant of the Joker – the Mouse King – featuring the same “rolling eye” time display, but powered by a new base movement. According to Konstantin, the genesis of the watch came during the recent Christmas season, when he read the German fairytale The Nutcracker and the Mouse King, or Nussknacker und Mausekönig in its original language, to his daughter. A story about a nutcracker doll that comes to life and then defeats the evil Mouse King, the fairytale is the basis for Tchaikovsky’s ballet The Nutcracker. But most relevant to Konstantin is the fact that one of its main characters, Drosselmeyer, is a clockmaker. And in another coincidence, the Chinese Year of the Rat begins on January 25, 2020, which is also his daughter’s birthday. And so the Mouse King watch was created, as a limited edition of seven watches – because the evil Mouse King has seven heads, each wearing a golden crown. It indicates the hours and minutes regulator-style with a”moving eye” display, along with the moon phase at six o’clock ...

What Sealed The Deal – Jeremy’s Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe Jan 23, 2020

What Sealed The Deal – Jeremy’s Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe

A chronograph is an important part of any watch collection, but the decision regarding which brand or model to buy can be a tough one. Time+Tide reader Jeremy talks us through the decision to pull the trigger on what was not only his first chronograph, but his first-ever Swiss watch, a silver dial example of … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Jeremy’s Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronographe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium SJX Watches
Breguet Marine 5517 Jan 23, 2020

Up Close: Breguet Marine 5517 in Titanium

Breguet today is highly regarded for its watches that classically designed but often powered by innovative, high-tech movements, like the Classique Chronométrie 7727 with magnetic balance pivots, or the recent, elaborately finished skeleton tourbillon 5395. The brand is not, however, known for its luxury-sports watches (its line of Type XX aviator’s chronographs are entry-level and not quite sports watches). But last year Breguet unveiled the latest – and best – version of its luxury-sports watch, the Marine 5517. An under-appreciated contender in the category, the new Marine more conservative in style than its competition, but built to an admirably high standard. The Marine 5517 in titanium with a matching bracelet Horloger de la Marine Unlike its competitors, Breguet was relatively late to the luxury-sports watch segment (though not as late as A. Lange & Söhne, which launched the Odysseus last year); the original Marine only made its debut in 1990. The model name was inspired by Breguet’s appointment in 1815 as Horloger de la Marine – clockmaker to the French navy, an appointment it held for over 150 years. Designed by Jorg Hysek, perhaps the most famous watch designers of the 1990s, the first-generation Marine was distinguished by its fluted, domed crown, but otherwise looked pretty much like any other Breguet. That was replaced in 2005 by the second generation, a major redesign that gave it a more distinctive style. The practical robustness of the Marine...

Survival of the fittest: Bear Grylls and Luminox have created some tough timepieces Time+Tide
Luminox Jan 23, 2020

Survival of the fittest: Bear Grylls and Luminox have created some tough timepieces

Maverick survivalist, TV host and ex-British special forces soldier Bear Grylls has teamed up with Californian-based watchmaker Luminox to create the ultimate range of tough and ready timepieces. Judiciously called the Bear Grylls Survival Collection, there will be six watches in total to … bear Bear’s name. In fact, each and every one of the … ContinuedThe post Survival of the fittest: Bear Grylls and Luminox have created some tough timepieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches SJX Watches
Bulgari Watches Noted watch designers Jan 22, 2020

Interview: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Creative Director at Bulgari Watches

Noted watch designers are usually prolific, but often famous for a handful, or even just one or two, creations. The obvious example is the late Gerald Genta, who conceived tens of thousands of designs, but is best known for his twin luxury-sports watches of 1972 and 1976. And so it is for Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, the chief watch designer at Bulgari. Born in Naples but having moved to Rome as a child, the 49-year old joined Bulgari in 2001, after a short stint at Fiat in Turin straight out of design school. Over the 19 years designing watches for Bulgari, with several spent as a freelancer in the mid 2000s, he has created numerous and diverse timepieces, but the Octo Finissimo is his definitive work to date. The sleek and exceptionally thin watch has won critical acclaim, as well as many awards, since its launch in 2014. While it is probably too early to elevate the design to iconic status – something he admits below – the Octo Finissimo certainly has a good chance of getting there. The new Octo Finissimo in steel Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani I admire Mr Buonamassa Stigliani’s work with the Octo Finissimo, and though I managed to speak with him on several occasions over the years, they were brief conversations. But at last week’s LVMH Watch Week in Dubai – where Bulgari, Hublot, and Zenith presented their latest timepieces – I spoke with him at length. In an enlightening interview, he discussed the conception and construction of the Octo Finissimo, watch ...

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Jan 21, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial

The personal watch of Adam Clayton, bass player of U2, this Pioneer Centre Seconds is one of only three Pioneer models in existence without a brand name on the dial. It has not been polished and is literally ‘off Adam’s wrist to the auction’ – light scratches and wear marks remain. Adam has been photographed … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 1: U2 bass player Adam Clayton’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Centre Seconds Limited Edition #1 of 3, with funky blue dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 Jan 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch?

Unquestionably one of Grand Seiko’s most surprising releases of 2019, the SBGK additions to the Elegance Collection had all the makings of a perfect dress watch. There was just one problem, however - if I’m being really finickity, the dial options that were made available upon release were perhaps slightly out of keeping with that of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is this Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK007 a perfect dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fight Club: We pit Conor McGregor’s watch collection against one another Time+Tide
Jan 20, 2020

Fight Club: We pit Conor McGregor’s watch collection against one another

As I’m sure most of you are aware, “The Notorious” Conor McGregor made a triumphant return to the UFC octagon last weekend, knocking out his opponent, seasoned veteran Donald Cerrone, within 40 seconds of the very first round. It was a resounding statement from the Irishman (those shoulder charges!) and it will no doubt again … ContinuedThe post Fight Club: We pit Conor McGregor’s watch collection against one another appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction for the Australian bushfires is live! See and bid on all 16 watches now… Time+Tide
Jan 20, 2020

The ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction for the Australian bushfires is live! See and bid on all 16 watches now…

I am excited – after a couple of furiously busy weeks of behind-the-scenes planning – to announce the launch of the ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction in aid of the Australian bushfire crisis. The auction, launched today on the Invaluable online auction platform at 9am AEST, will run for 10 days, until 9am AEST … ContinuedThe post The ‘Watch & Act!’ World Watch Auction for the Australian bushfires is live! See and bid on all 16 watches now… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Space odyssey: How the Omega Calibre 321 became the first watch movement on the moon Time+Tide
Omega Calibre 321 became Jan 19, 2020

Space odyssey: How the Omega Calibre 321 became the first watch movement on the moon

In many ways, outer space and space exploration have become a routine part of life. We all carry a device that listens to signals from space in the form of our mobile phone. Most can receive messages from GPS satellites in medium earth orbit more than 20,000km away. Just as space is now entwined with … ContinuedThe post Space odyssey: How the Omega Calibre 321 became the first watch movement on the moon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH Watch Week 2020: A Round Table Discussion Of A New-Generation Group Fair And A Photofest Of New Watches From Zenith, Hublot And Bulgari Quill & Pad
Bulgari As Baselworld Jan 18, 2020

LVMH Watch Week 2020: A Round Table Discussion Of A New-Generation Group Fair And A Photofest Of New Watches From Zenith, Hublot And Bulgari

As Baselworld and Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) continue to evolve, change, and metamorphose, the various groups and brands continue to ponder how to best show their new watches to both retail and press. In an experimental trial run for a new-age solution, LVMH staged a small fair comprising three of its watch brands – Zenith, Hublot, and Bulgari – in Bulgari's Dubai Resort. Here's what we thought of the event.

Tissot trifecta: The 3 most important Tissot watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Tissot trifecta Jan 18, 2020

Tissot trifecta: The 3 most important Tissot watches of 2019

Tissot had a resolutely excellent end to the decade, releasing plenty of exciting new timepieces in 2019 that got the watch community talking. What’s more, the Swiss watchmaker made a conscious effort to cater to both people just getting into watches, as well as the dyed-in-the-wool veterans. We won’t cover every new timepiece Tissot unveiled … ContinuedThe post Tissot trifecta: The 3 most important Tissot watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My week with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne Jan 18, 2020

My week with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm

“Authentic” is an often misused and even abused accolade in today’s disposable and instant-service world. Consumers tend to be impressed for brief moments with the speed and functionality of an app, or the savings and convenience that a subscription model lends to their lifestyle. Less and less frequently, consumers are able to appreciate a product … ContinuedThe post My week with the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 37mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Edition SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 17, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Edition

Audemars Piguet has just taken the covers off the seventh and latest country-specific Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, after the editions for Hong Kong, Thailand, Switzerland, Indonesia, Japan, and Latin America – this time, it’s for the Chinese market. Launched just three months after the debut of the gorgeous skeleton version in black ceramic, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar China Limited Edition is a first for Audemars Piguet, being the only Royal Oak perpetual calendar to date in titanium. Though the material is novel, the size and finishing are identical to that of the standard model, which means 41 mm and gorgeously contrasting brushed and polished surfaces from end to end. The dial is dark grey, and engine-turned with the signature chequerboard tapisserie guilloche of the Royal Oak. It has the week-of-the-year indicator in red, traditionally an auspicious colour in Chinese culture and one that’s synonymous with the Lunar New Year. Similarly, the presentation box for the watch is finished in red, instead of the usual dark green. Another reference to Chinese culture is the limited edition size of 88 – “8” is phonetically similar to “prosper” in many Chinese dialects, making it a most desirable number. Unusually, the China edition was developed with the input of horological influencer Austen Chu, better known as Horoloupe on Instagram, who “contributed towards the overall aesthetics” according to Audemars Piguet. Michael Friedman, Head of Complication...

How LIP And Timex Became Involved In Two Of The 20th Century’s Most Vicious Industrial Disputes Quill & Pad
Timex Became Involved Jan 17, 2020

How LIP And Timex Became Involved In Two Of The 20th Century’s Most Vicious Industrial Disputes

If you were to ask people about the first watch they received as a child, the majority would probably say it was a Timex. And although LIP was at one point the world’s seventh largest watch manufacturer, it's now little known outside France. Both companies share an extremely turbulent past one aspect of which Colin Smith shares with us here.

Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition SJX Watches
Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Jan 16, 2020

Hands-On: Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition

The Zenith Defy 21 is unquestionably strong value for money – a 1/100th of a second chronograph starting at just over US$10,000 for the base model in titanium. But most of the iterations of the Defy 21 so far have a highly technical look, combining a skeletonised dial with a large, angular case. Now the Defy 21 design has taken a sharp turn in another another direction: with the help of Land Rover, Zenith has given it a makeover, creating the minimalist and functional Defy 21 Land Rover Edition. While automotive-inspired watches are often over designed, the Defy 21 Land Rover Edition has been redesigned in a simple and effective manner; the watch has been streamlined and pared back, giving it a slightly military look that works. The styling is a nod to the 2020 Land Rover Defender, the most no-nonsense of the British carmaker’s offerings that was launched in late 2019. Clean lines and surfaces To start with the case is micro-blasted titanium – finished with a finer-than-usual frosting that is faintly granular, in contrast to the coarser frosting that is more commonly applied to titanium. The surface is smooth enough that is resembles a coating, but it is natural titanium. The simplicity of the case finish is appealing, because it suits the chunky, angular form of the case. But it is also practical, because it reduces the perceived size of the case, which is large at 44 mm by 14.4 mm. But being titanium, the case is fairly lightweight and wears comfortably, though...

These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Jaquet Droz Jan 16, 2020

These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019

As is the case with every other year in recent times, 2019 was a very, very good one for the inimitable Swiss watchmaker Jaquet Droz. Not only did we see the marque, which has been around since 1738, create their first ever Grande Seconde Chronograph, we also saw a great new addition to their Grande … ContinuedThe post These were the 3 best Jaquet Droz watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Louis Vuitton Buys World’s Largest Uncut Diamond SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Buys World’s Largest Uncut Jan 16, 2020

Business News: Louis Vuitton Buys World’s Largest Uncut Diamond

Just as the inaugural LVMH Watch Week closed its doors – after Hublot, Bulgari and Zenith had presented their new timepieces – Louis Vuitton has something even bigger to boast about. The Parisian luxury brand, which is the biggest component of LVMH, has just acquired a stake in the world’s largest uncut diamond, which is also the second-biggest diamond ever. Discovered last April at the Karowe mine in Botswana, the Sewelô weighs 1,758 carats, or quite a bit larger than a tennis ball. Sewelo means “rare find” in Setswana, a language spoken in Southern Africa. It was the name chosen from some 22,000 entries that were submitted to a contest run by the mining firm that discovered the stone, Canadian outfit Lucara. Despite the moniker, the Sewelo is not unique – it is the second diamond over 1,000 carats mined by Karowe, after the 1,109 carat Lesedi de Rona found in 2015 and then sold for US$53 million to Graff, which cut it into in several smaller stones. Currently stored on the top floor of Louis Vuitton’s jewellery store on the Place Vendome in Paris, the Sewelô is covered in carbon, and its quality is unknown, although it was described as “near gem quality”, and containing “domains of high-quality white gem”, by Lucara. According to Louis Vuitton chief executive Michael Burke, quoted in The New York Times, the luxury house will only cut and set the stone after it has found a buyer, instead of keeping it as an object for exhibitions. Though Louis V...