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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Recommended Reading: Will yet another auction record be broken this weekend? The world’s most complicated wristwatch is up for grabs… Time+Tide
Jan 23, 2021

Recommended Reading: Will yet another auction record be broken this weekend? The world’s most complicated wristwatch is up for grabs…

This might be exactly what we need to start 2021 with a BANG, and signal what we all hope is a strong year of growth for both the watch industry and consumer market in general. Auction results are a very important marker of the market temperature, and as WatchPro reminded us, this weekend sees the … ContinuedThe post Recommended Reading: Will yet another auction record be broken this weekend? The world’s most complicated wristwatch is up for grabs… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming Time+Tide
Grand Seiko watches from 2020 Jan 23, 2021

Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming

Grand Seiko and their meticulous artistry never cease to amaze me. Each watch has a rich back story with every dial tone, texture, case form and finish carefully selected in order to best convey the brand’s grammar of design. Their relationship with Japanese culture and the nature that surrounds their workshops really shines through in … ContinuedThe post Blindsided by brilliance: three Grand Seiko watches from 2020 that we never saw coming appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum with Blue Stella Dial at Sotheby’s SJX Watches
Zenith Daytona Jan 22, 2021

Auction Watch: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in Platinum with Blue Stella Dial at Sotheby’s

Having sold the first publicly-known Daytona “Zenith” in platinum, Sotheby’s is going to offer yet another. Once again a unique example, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16516 in platinum – and a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial – will go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong watch auction in April 2021. “Sothebys is delighted to present this automatic Zenith Daytona rendered in platinum with a ‘Tiffany blue’ lacquered ‘Stella’ dial in April,” says Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, who adds, “Manufactured in 1998, this previously unknown watch comes from the same collection as the record-breaking platinum Daytona with hardstone lapis lazuli dial sold by Sotheby’s last year.” The “Tiffany blue” lacquered dial of the platinum Daytona that’ll be sold in April According to Sotheby’s, only five platinum Daytonas with the Zenith El Primero movement were made in the late 1990s, at the request of Rolex’s then chief executive Patrick Heiniger. Each example was unique in having a different dial, but all were equipped wit the same cal. 4030 derived from the Zenith El Primero, which was phased out in favour of the in-house cal. 4130 in 2000. The late Heiniger kept one for himself, and gifted the remainder to key business partners of Rolex. Sotheby’s has since sold two of the five, each achieving a record price for an automatic Daytona. The first was a wedding present to a member of the Gobbi family that owns the eponymous watch retailer in...

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review Pros Jan 21, 2021

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review

Pros: El Primero 3600 movement with 1/10th of a second chronographTri-coloured dials add a touch of class Rolex Ceramic Daytona anyone? Cons: Some may find it heavy on the wrist after a long period of wearTo change links have to unscrew using two screwdriversSome may not appreciate the monochromatic oscillating weight Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Zenith has shown great success during the LVMH Watch Week 2020 in Dubai, which is why alongside other LVMH brands, they are now releasing their latest watches in a one-week online event. Zenith will put together a special presentation that is a mix of digital and physical representations to showcase the latest timepieces.  Reference: 03.3100.3600/69.M3100 One of these latest models to leave the Zenith Manufacture is the new Chronomaster Sport. For Zenith, 2021 has been dubbed the year of the Chronomaster. The focus of the LVMH week for Zenith will of course then be on this latest Chronomaster Sport release, which features an evolved version of the El Primero movement, now being able to allow for 1/10th of a second measurement!  Zenith CEO Julien Tornare spoke about the importance of LVMH event and also Chronomaster by stating that “My team and I are thrilled to finally be able to share with you something we’ve been working on for quite some time – a true evolution of a mod...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport and El Primero 3600 SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 21, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Sport and El Primero 3600

Two years ago, when Zenith celebrated the semicentennial of the El Primero – the world’s first high-beat, automatic chronograph movement – a successor to the long-running workhorse was quietly unveiled as part of a three-piece set. Designed from ground up as a brand-new movement, the El Primero 3600 was equipped with modern tech and additional features, including twin chronograph seconds hands. But the movement never made it to regular production, until now. The El Primero 3600 finally becomes accessible with the new Chronomaster Sport, a new line of sports chronographs featuring a shiny black-ceramic bezel and two dial options. Initial thoughts The debut of El Primero 3600 two years ago was noteworthy, but it was lost amongst the tasteful remakes – case in point – created to commemorate the anniversary. Now that the vintage remakes have reached their end with the final instalment announced just recently, the new movement can take the stage. The El Primero 3600 is certainly an impressive upgrade and a completely different animal compared to the original El Primero. Most notable is the addition of a lightning central seconds that travels six times as fast, completing one revolution every 10 seconds, allowing it to measure 1/10th of a second. That truly unleashes the full potential of the El Primero movement, which runs at 10 beats a second, or 36,000 beats per hour. Technical ingenuity notwithstanding, the watch itself looks good, albeit slightly derivative. T...

Living With: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Jan 21, 2021

Living With: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue

H. Moser & Cie. launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph almost exactly a year ago with a launch edition of a 100 pieces that sold out quickly. I liked the watch when I first saw it in late 2019. Both its design and execution were done well, and the movement is special. Unlike many of its peers, the Streamliner is an original in a segment dominated by derivative watches. So when I was offered the chance to borrow the prototype for a few days – off the wrist of Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, who had been wearing it skiing – it was an easy yes. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the 1970s and 1980s sports watches – but not the obvious ones like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – the Streamliner is one of the few integrated-bracelet sports watches that isn’t derivative, which is a feat in itself. The “Funky Blue” version has exactly the same design and movement, but with a new dial in a graduated, metallic blue that’s even more striking. I do, however, miss the vertically-brushed finish on the dial of the launch edition, which was uncommon amongst Moser watches. The subtle, radially-brushed finish of the Funky Blue dial Aesthetic aside, a key part of its appeal lies in the HMC 902 movement, a calibre developed by Geneva specialist Agenhor. Not only is the construction clever, it is also good looking, despite its modern aesthetics. Traditionally-styled chronograph movements like the L951.1 of the Datograph are usually the most attractive, but the HMC 902 is...

Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter SJX Watches
Panerai Jan 20, 2021

Business News: Richemont Sales Recover in Third Quarter

In the third quarter of its financial year – the three months to end-December 2020 – Richemont reported a modest recovery, with sales rising 5% over the same period a year before at constant exchange rates. This modest recovery was enough to moderate its results for the nine months to date, with revenue for the period down 14%, as compared to the drastic 38% plunge in sales for the first half of the year. Owners of over two dozen watch and jewellery brands including Cartier, IWC, and Panerai, the Swiss luxury conglomerate was buoyed by robust demand in Asia, its biggest regional market, as well as the Middle East and Africa. Combined, the two regions make up approximately half of Richemont’s global sales. The Asia Pacific enjoyed a 25% rise in sales, driven largely by exceptional demand in mainland China, where revenue rose an impressive 80% for the period, with sales in Taiwan also seeing a marked 29% increase – both consequence of a return to regular economic activity as the pandemic was brought under control, and the inability to travel and shop overseas. Paradoxically, the results in the Middle East were driven by a revival of tourist spending in Dubai as flights resumed, and domestic spending in Saudi Arabia where citizens cannot easily go abroad. This contributed towards a remarkable 27% increase in sales for the region. Elsewhere, sales too rose, albeit in smaller, single-digit increments. Bolstered by domestic demand, sales in the Americas rose by 3%. Jap...

My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020 Time+Tide
Bulgari releases Jan 20, 2021

My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020

Bulgari has enjoyed a real hot streak over the past few years, throwing their hat into the ring of haute ultra-thin watchmaking. The Octo Finissimo has delivered the most refreshing entry into the integrated-bracelet watch category with its distinct, architectural design unlike anything else in the market. To some, Bulgari designs still remain a matter … ContinuedThe post My three favourite Bulgari releases of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rutherglen Muscats: Fortified Liquid Delights From A Historical Australian Wine Region Quill & Pad
Jan 19, 2021

Rutherglen Muscats: Fortified Liquid Delights From A Historical Australian Wine Region

Ken Gargett remembers it as though it was yesterday: the aroma from this small glass was the most alluring, enticing, extraordinary thing he had ever smelled in his life. Indeed, the nose of a great Muscat is for him one of the three great aromas one can find in the world of wine (the other two being a first-class, mature champagne and a great Burgundy). In this story, he introduces us to the beautifully fragrant world of Australia's Rutherglen Muscats.

RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman Time+Tide
Jan 19, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman

When we think of watchmakers, we immediately think of European and Japanese artisans. But to ensure our watches remain in tip-top shape, watchmakers around the world and of varying backgrounds all work hard to ensure the immortality of our timepieces. Earlier this month AFP via Prestige shone a spotlight on 52 year-old Youssef Abdelkarim, a … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The heartwarming tale of Baghdad’s last watch repairman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Battle of the Doxa colours! Cast your vote as the team fight over their favourite hit of dive-watch freshness. Time+Tide
Doxa colours! Cast your vote Jan 19, 2021

Battle of the Doxa colours! Cast your vote as the team fight over their favourite hit of dive-watch freshness.

We love the fresh pop of Doxa colours – what an easy way to brighten up your day. But what’s your favourite? Are you a monochrome black Shark Hunter, or an orange Professional traditionalist? We put this to the team in an editorial meeting and a heated discussion ensued, recorded for posterity by yours truly … ContinuedThe post Battle of the Doxa colours! Cast your vote as the team fight over their favourite hit of dive-watch freshness. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary SJX Watches
Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary Jan 18, 2021

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary

Announced quietly late last year and already in stores, the Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary (ref. WGTA0057) is a limited edition to mark the centenary of the jeweller’s formal watch for men. A handsome watch that faithfully replicates nearly all elements of the vintage original, the anniversary edition is distinct from the 2018 Tank Cintrée in both case and movement. In fact, the anniversary model is actually a revival of the 2005 Tank Cintrée. The elegance and refinement, however, comes at an unusually high price. A variety of modern-day Tank Cintrée iterations Initial thoughts The Tank Cintrée is a formal watch, with all the elegance and simplicity that dictates, while being a form watch, instead of a plain, round shape that most dress watches are. That’s the singular talent of the Tank Cintrée, explaining why it remains appealing after a century. Practically a one-to-one remake of the 1920s Tank Cintrée, the anniversary edition – like most other vintage remakes – scores high on beauty since the original was attractive, but low on imagination and novelty. And more notably, the anniversary edition is a revival of the a more recent watch, the Tank Cintrée in yellow gold of 2005 – both have the same case and movement. Perfectly executed as a remake, the anniversary edition reproduces the look of a vintage original well in all aspects. But the anniversary edition approximates how a 1920s example would look today, after a century of ageing, rather ...

Getting colour coordinated with the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 collection Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 collection Editor’s Jan 17, 2021

Getting colour coordinated with the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 collection

Editor’s note: Without a doubt, one of the hottest trends of 2020 was the sheer volume of coloured watches that were released. From pretty pastels to the range of rainbows, these colours were a welcome bright spot in a grim year. A certain Le Brassus-based brand joined in on the fun introducing the CODE 11.59 … ContinuedThe post Getting colour coordinated with the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Bulgari Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport: Intertwined History, Great Design Quill & Pad
Bulgari Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Jan 14, 2021

New Bulgari Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport: Intertwined History, Great Design

After celebrating the fiftieth anniversary of Gérald Genta's eponymous company founded in 1969, Bulgari embarks on reinstating the niche brand within its own ranks, kicking off with a captivating, revamped version of the Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport. Find out the fascinating history behind this formerly independent brand and the series of events leading to this decision right here.

Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist… Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Jan 14, 2021

Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist…

Conor McGregor is a larger-than-life personality within the world of MMA. When you’re as successful as the “The Notorious” Irishman, you can not only afford to strut your stuff in the manner he does, but also spend ludicrous sums of money on watches. Yesterday, McGregor shared a window into his extraordinary life, filming his visit … ContinuedThe post Conor McGregor drops £2.2M on Jacob & Co. watches including one with an X-rated twist… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now Time+Tide
Jan 13, 2021

5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’re likely to sit somewhere on the scale of watch addiction. From unrelenting curiosity to full-blown collecting mania, you should know that you aren’t alone in your unquenchable thirst for that next addition to the collection. And what better way to start the year than by getting a … ContinuedThe post 5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref 6301P-001 Jan 12, 2021

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001

Patek Philippe closed 2020 in a big way with the launch of the Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 in November. The most complicated wristwatch unveiled by the Geneva watchmaker in recent years, the Grande Sonnerie is a grande and petite sonnerie carillon. With last year’s Geneva watch fair cancelled, the brand unveiled its new releases one by one throughout the year, starting with the limited-edition Calatrava ref. 6007A in June, allowing each new model to be in stores as soon as it was announced. The Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 was no different, albeit on a tiny scale, with reputedly only a handful available in each region – all sold before the launch. Initial thoughts An impressively large watch, the ref. 6301P feels like a modern-day grand complication. The size is a consequence of the wide and complex movement, so the watch has good proportions all things considered. But the styling is classical, incorporating many elements from vintage Patek Philippe watches – and also the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – which gives it an elegant appearance, something helped by the relative thinness of the case. Still, it is clearly a contemporary watch – Patek Philippe rarely does exact remakes of vintage watches – with details that mark it out as such, including the recessed case band and the luminous hands. The fact that the watch is contemporary is evident in the movement, which looks and functions like a modern calibre, reflecting Patek Philippe’s measured,...

Ressence Unveils the Last in the 10th Anniversary “X” Series Tetralogy SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils Jan 12, 2021

Ressence Unveils the Last in the 10th Anniversary “X” Series Tetralogy

Though just 10 years old, Belgian watchmaker Ressence has already made its mark with its sleek, inventive designs centred on a planetary time display – which is fun and surprisingly legible – and an ingenious, oil-filled case. To mark its 10th anniversary, the brand rolled out a quartet of limited-edition “X” series watches, which has just reached its conclusion with the launch of the final instalment, the Type 1 Squared X. The Type 1 Squared X Each of the anniversary watches was based on a standard model, but gently and cleverly tweaked to distinguish them. A recurring theme throughout the quartet is green dial, albeit in different shades, and more notably, quirky technical modifications. So the new Type 1 Squared X is clad in metallic, olive green while having a novel day and night indicator that relies on coloured ceramic ball. The X series (from the top): Type 1 Squared X, Type 5X, Type 3X, and Type 1 Slim X Initial thoughts Ressence watches are appealing in a quirky way. Though entirely mechanical, they evoke the liquid-crystal displays of smart watches. Many of the brand’s watches are modern, looking cool but somewhat cold in their black or grey metallic colours. The Type 1 Squared X, however, lightens its tone with the green dial. And it is made all the more intriguing with its day and night indicator developed with the neuroscientist at Harvard, a string of colourful ceramic ball that Ressence dubs the “Time by Colour” system. Nevertheless, the Type ...