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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy Time+Tide
Dec 23, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy

Raw sex appeal may have won Brad Pitt some of his early Hollywood roles. But rather than coast along on his dashing looks alone, the actor’s career has evolved to turn him into one of, if not the, biggest movie stars in the world. From Thelma & Louise to Fight Club and Moneyball to The … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The watch collection of Brad Pitt will make you drool with envy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now Time+Tide
Dec 22, 2020

5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now

When it comes to buying vintage watches, the phrase “buy the seller” should always be at the back of your mind. That’s because trust is always paramount when you’re buying anything pre-owned due to that nagging fear the watch you buy might not arrive at your door as advertised. This year, eBay has made a … ContinuedThe post 5 wildly desirable watches that you can buy on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bays Dec 22, 2020

3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT

Having a relationship with brands and authorised dealers is something any watch collector strives for. If you’re thinking that a quick re-read of How to Make Friends and Influence People will help you with this, we have bad news. This connection is typically developed through purchase history rather than charm, genuine dialogue and friendship. Being a … ContinuedThe post 3 custom Tudor Black Bays in a week! John Mayer’s Undefeated Tudor Black Bay 41mm and Air France’s Fifty-Eight & GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Highlights The Difference A Dial Makes With 2020 Saxonia Thin And Saxonia Outsize Date Models Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Dec 21, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Highlights The Difference A Dial Makes With 2020 Saxonia Thin And Saxonia Outsize Date Models

Is a new dial color a new watch? Technically speaking, probably not. But a dial can make all the difference in a watch's character, which A. Lange & Söhne highlights with three new additions to the Saxonia collection. Even among the classically inclined collections of A. Lange & Söhne, for Martin Green the Saxonia line is the home of the brand’s ultimate dress watch.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Line Cut SJX Watches
Richard Mille s familiar case style. But Dec 21, 2020

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Line Cut

In a departure from its usual exuberant, Technicolor style, Franck Müller’s latest creation is slim, pared back, and monochromatic. An exclusive for its stores in France, the Vanguard Line Cut is a thin time-only watch entirely in sandblasted titanium, giving it a sleek, clean look. And priced a little under €10,000, it is also affordable as such things go. Initial thoughts While most of the Vanguard models feel derivative, or a bit much, the Line Cut seems just right in size, style, and price. It’s 41 mm wide, smallish by Franck Muller standards, and under 10 mm high, giving it the wide-but-thin proportions of many popular luxury-sports watches. And the pared-back look also extends to its colours and textures – the liberal use of sandblasted titanium is clean and suits the style, resulting in an aesthetic that’s both cohesive and attractive. But its water resistance is only 30 m, which is a bit less than typical for a sports watch. Not much was provided on the FM 708 movement inside, although the Franck Muller says it was developed specifically for this watch. Cintree Curvex Descended from Franck Muller’s signature Cintree Curvex tonneau-shaped watch, the Vanguard is a sports watch that does bear some resemblance to Richard Mille’s familiar case style. But the slimness of the Line Cut brings to mind instead the earliest watches of Franck Muller, which were mostly smaller and thinner than today’s models. The titanium case measures 41 mm by 50 mm, with a...

MB&F; x Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement Jules Verne: Science Fiction Stories Exquisitely Engraved In Metal Quill & Pad
MB&F; Dec 20, 2020

MB&F; x Eddy Jaquet LM Split Escapement Jules Verne: Science Fiction Stories Exquisitely Engraved In Metal

It’s no surprise that MB&F; would create a special limited series of Legacy Machines honoring Jules Verne and the type of retro-futurism found within his novels. Yet this project is also the artistic child of master engraver Eddy Jaquet who has worked with MB&F; for the last decade and was the driver behind the focus of each piece on and how to realize it. The results of these eight unique timepieces are simply spectacular.

INTRODUCING: The Zelos Watches Blacktip 200m is one of the best-value divers around Time+Tide
Dec 20, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Zelos Watches Blacktip 200m is one of the best-value divers around

Zelos Watches stand out for their well-honed design vision and obsession with details that puts them firmly on the microbrand podium. Elshan Tang, the owner and designer, releases a steady stream of new stock on their website, ranging from chunky bronze divers to dress watches with elaborate ETA movements. But whatever Zelos offer, it’s quickly … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zelos Watches Blacktip 200m is one of the best-value divers around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Greubel Forsey Names Antonio Calce CEO SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux where he had Dec 19, 2020

Business News: Greubel Forsey Names Antonio Calce CEO

Perhaps the leading maker of avant-garde and exotic tourbillon wristwatches, Greubel Forsey has just appointed Antonio Calce as chief executive officer. Having spent the early years of his career at Panerai in product development and then overseeing its manufacture, Mr Calce then became chief executive of Corum, and subsequently Eterna as well. Next came the top job at Girard-Perregaux, where he had a mandate to turn it around but departed before his plans gained traction. At Greubel Forsey, Mr Calce succeeds Fabrice Deschanel, who became chief executive officer of Greubel Forsey in 2017 after several years as head of Audemars Piguet’s complications subsidiary Renaud & Papi. The recently-launched Greubel Forsey GMT Sport Commenting in the announcement, Robert Greubel stated, “I am convinced Antonio will carry the Greubel Forsey signature a long way, all the while respecting our values and our DNA.” Mr Greubel remains chairman of the board, while fellow cofounder Stephen Forsey continues in his role helming product and movement development. While the role of Greubel Forsey chief executive was historically one and the same with the top job at Complitime, Greubel Forsey’s sister company that builds complications for other brands, Mr Calce’s new role is only overseeing Greubel Forsey.  

Five people who made watches sexy again… Time+Tide
Dec 19, 2020

Five people who made watches sexy again…

One of the reasons that watch collecting is so fascinating is its thematic diversity. A timepiece is a wrist-bound intersection for history, culture and the audacity of the human spirit. The only thing is that – whisper it quietly – it’s not always particularly sexy. Eyed from certain angles, the watch world often looks to … ContinuedThe post Five people who made watches sexy again… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Dec 18, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition

Grand Seiko has been celebrating its 60th Anniversary these past few weeks and months, but during today’s Grand Seiko USA webinar some huge news was announced regarding the future of Grand Seiko USA, as well as a new watch – the Grand Seiko SBGE263 US Limited Edition. The 110 watches are a nod to the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE263 GS9 Club US Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Thank you for making our Bamford collab, our first-ever watch, a winner, we love you Time+Tide
Dec 17, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Thank you for making our Bamford collab, our first-ever watch, a winner, we love you

For anyone who spends a lot of time on social media, and cruises around Time+Tide’s Instagram on a regular basis, they’ll probably already know that our Bamford x Time+Tide GMT1 sold out in 26 hours over the weekend. And for those who happened to tune in to Insta Stories over the weekend, they’ll also know … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Thank you for making our Bamford collab, our first-ever watch, a winner, we love you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why a Vogue journalist is buying her first watch Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why a Vogue journalist is buying her first watch

When you’re a hardcore enthusiast it’s easy to get stuck in the #watchfam echo chamber, so it’s always nice to get some outside perspective from others who’ve yet to fall down the horological rabbit hole. That’s exactly what we got from journalist Liana Satenstein, as she ponders her first move in acquiring a classic watch. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why a Vogue journalist is buying her first watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Seiko bolster their legendary dive range with two PADI-certified winners Time+Tide
Seiko bolster their legendary dive Dec 16, 2020

INTRODUCING: Seiko bolster their legendary dive range with two PADI-certified winners

Seiko dive watches are the stuff of legend. They have inspired everything from the creation of entire Instagram accounts to the cult followings of references that appeared on the silver screen. They might not be the collective dials that launched a thousand ships, but they’re pretty damn close. This global ardour for the water-resistant wonders … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Seiko bolster their legendary dive range with two PADI-certified winners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Bovet’s high-impact collab with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a wrist-bound serotonin hit Time+Tide
Bovet Dec 16, 2020

INTRODUCING: Bovet’s high-impact collab with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a wrist-bound serotonin hit

To celebrate their 70th birthday, luxury watch retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons have released a limited-edition watch with Bovet. The distinctive black and yellow design of the resulting watch is certainly eye-catching. But what makes the Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons and Bovet 19Thirty Dimier U.A.E Limited Edition such an intriguing proposition? Well, to understand the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Bovet’s high-impact collab with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons is a wrist-bound serotonin hit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Dec 15, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano

Announced as a prelude to the 90th anniversary of its iconic reversible wristwatch, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is the final debut from Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) for 2020. Cleverly constructed to utilise the twin faces of the watch for two time zones, the Tribute Duoface was already launched earlier in the year in a similar guise, with a dark blue dial. Now it returns with a pleasing metallic-burgundy dial that’s once again equipped with a strap made by Argentinian polo-boot maker Casa Fagliano – in a 190-piece limited edition that’ll be available only at JLC boutiques. Initial thoughts Rendered in a glossy, metallic burgundy, the dial of the new Reverso is striking. It suits the colour of the pink-gold case well, while also giving a more vibrant look to a watch that is usually dressed in more sedate colours. The Tribute Duoface feels a little bit thick for an elegant watch, something that’s accented by the curve of the back, a feature devised to help it sit better on the wrist. Also at odds with the style of the watch is the strap. Robustly made of canvas with leather ends, the strap feels more suited to something far more sporty. Nonetheless the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is still an attractive watch. And it’s not only the look that appeals, but also the movement within. Although the cal. 854A/2 is several decades old – the original cal. 854 was unveiled in 1994 with the first-generation Reverso Duo – it remains simple, sensible, and smart in h...

LIST: Zach’s 3 favourite watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Dec 15, 2020

LIST: Zach’s 3 favourite watches of 2020

This year was strange, to put it mildly. The pandemic was ever-present, lurking over our shoulder, keeping us locked in our homes and generally limiting our contact with the rest of the world. Fortunately, for those of us into watches, the new releases have continued to flow with manufacturers adapting their release strategies to meet … ContinuedThe post LIST: Zach’s 3 favourite watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ever considered buying a watch on eBay? Here’s why it’s now 100% risk-free Time+Tide
Dec 15, 2020

Ever considered buying a watch on eBay? Here’s why it’s now 100% risk-free

When buying pre-owned watches online, there are two emotions that you feel after sending your money. The first is the heady excitement at the prospect of adding a new piece to your collection. The second is that queasy feeling in the pit of your stomach – a blend of terror and anxiety as you fear … ContinuedThe post Ever considered buying a watch on eBay? Here’s why it’s now 100% risk-free appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding: All-Gold, Off-Beat Elegance Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding All-Gold Off-Beat Dec 14, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-Winding: All-Gold, Off-Beat Elegance

With the Égérie collection, Vacheron Constantin created a very tempting assortment of watches appealing to contemporary women. While the design of the Égérie is rooted in tradition, these watches always come with a little twist. In the case of the new Égérie Self-Winding, quite literally as the crown is at two o'clock with the date of this self-winding model occupying the same corner of the dial. While also available in steel, Martin Green thinks that the pink gold version on a gold bracelet is an especially precious proposition.

Up Close: Panerai Radiomir Venti “Paneristi” 45 mm PAM 2020 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Venti “Paneristi” 45 Dec 14, 2020

Up Close: Panerai Radiomir Venti “Paneristi” 45 mm PAM 2020

Announced two months ago to mark 20 years of Paneristi, the Radiomir Venti “Paneristi” PAM02020 is an unexpectedly good-looking watch, albeit one that can’t help but remind you why it exists, again and again. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Paneristi got the inspiration for its name from Ferraristi, the nickname given to Ferrari owners and fans. It the pioneering web forum dedicated to Panerai, which meant Paneristi was once the most important online community for the world’s hottest watch brand. Those days have long since passed, but the forum remains influential, and no doubt figures in Panerai’s plans in rejuvenating itself amongst collectors, which probably explains this watch. I outlined the background of the watch in the original announcement at its launch: “This is the sixth Paneristi edition. Six editions ago, Paneristi was arguably the most fanatical watch forum dedicated to the hottest brand in the world. The first Paneristi edition, the PAM 195 of 2003, sold out in an instant, and despite all of them having the owner’s name engraved on the back, sold for many multiples of the original retail price on the secondary market. But times have changed.” Beyond the history, the PAM 2020 is actually an enticing watch with several strongly appealing features – as well as one major drawback. Initial thoughts The verdict on the PAM 2020 is straightforward: it’s appealing, with well executed details and a particularly beautiful brown dial, ...

Urwerk UR-220: Spacetime Curves And Satellites Reign Supreme Quill & Pad
Urwerk UR-220 Spacetime Curves Dec 13, 2020

Urwerk UR-220: Spacetime Curves And Satellites Reign Supreme

The Urwerk UR-220 is an evolution of the popular UR-210, featuring the now-iconic Urwerk satellite display for the hours and minutes. And it's one more tangential celebration of Einstein’s theory. “The Falcon Project” is the nickname for the first variation of the UR-220, which sees the return of some legacy details from other models and the addition of some small changes to the function and aesthetic of the watch overall. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look.

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review Dec 13, 2020

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Review

The Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”, a timepiece clouded in such mystery that its existence was all but forgotten, until recently. The story behind this timepiece goes back to 1970, where after the iconic El Primero movement was produced by Zenith, the manufacture also produced a prototype for a manual winding chronograph. This chronograph model was housed in a blackened steel case, which was quite rare during the ’70s. The manufacture produced only a handful of these concepts, with the watch never making it into full production.  Soon after, the quartz crisis hit, which forced Zenith’s El Primero savior Charles Vermont to store all the plans and designs for mechanical watches including El Primero designs in a secret walled off attic in the manufacture. Just imagine though, if this beautiful all-black timepiece was never to be uncovered by the manufacture!  Luckily this wasn’t the case, as in 2019 when Zenith began celebrating their 50th anniversary of the El Primero Chronograph caliber, the team at the manufacture decided to go through all the plans, designs, and parts that they found in the secret attic. Among the numerous items hidden away, was a box that contained the original prototype of this special black chronograph model. A model that hasn’t been seen by anyone since the early 1970s.  The Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” project is a remake of the original 1970 model. Zenith, however, decided that instead of faithfully reproducing a replica of...