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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 SJX Watches
Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084 Apr 22, 2021

Living With: Panerai Luminor Logo PAM 1084

I admit that I wasn’t much of a Panerai fan. Nothing against the brand – it’s just that large, military-inspired watches aren’t my cup of tea. However, I’ve always been intrigued by the loyalty and enthusiasm that the brand engenders in Paneristi, its most loyal aficionados. In a nod to that following, Panerai launched a limited edition for the 20th anniversary of the Paneristi forum last year – the sixth watch created for the community. Few brands have their own watch forum, much less one that has lasted two decades. Clearly, there’s a lot of love for Panerai watches, and I’ve always wondered what lay behind that. When Panerai offered me the chance to test-drive the Luminor Logo 44 mm PAM01084, the latest version of its entry-level model, it was the perfect opportunity to venture outside my comfort zone and see what Panerai is all about. Initial thoughts The PAM 1084 is very much what I had expected. Let’s start with the positives. One is a utilitarian and eminently legible dial that is quintessentially Panerai – I never had an issue telling the time. Another is the classic Panerai case with its signature, oversized crown-lock bridge. And at 44 mm, it has significant wrist presence, but doesn’t feel overly large due to its short, sloping lugs. There is substantial heft to the watch, but it comes across as reassuring rather than bulky. And despite being one of the most affordable references in Panerai’s current lineup, the PAM 1084 retains much of...

LIST: Which do you choose? 8 awesome TAG Heuer Autavias Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavias If like me Nov 23, 2018

LIST: Which do you choose? 8 awesome TAG Heuer Autavias

If, like me, indecisiveness is your middle name, choosing your next watch can be hard. That may seem like nothing more than a #firstworldproblem to the uninitiated, but to me, I prefer to think of it as a rewarding methodical process, a “journey to better beginnings” if you will. Let’s face it, though, sometimes it’s … ContinuedThe post LIST: Which do you choose? 8 awesome TAG Heuer Autavias appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look – The New and Affordable Certina DS-1 Day-Date Monochrome
Certina DS-1 Day-Date Certina’s robust Jul 12, 2024

First Look – The New and Affordable Certina DS-1 Day-Date

Certina’s robust and affordably priced DS-1 is a descendant of the brand’s pioneering DS (Double Security) concept introduced in 1959. Back then, much like a turtle’s protective shell, the DS concept was engineered to enhance the resilience, reliability, and water resistance of watches against external threats by incorporating O-ring seals. This versatile and straightforward timepiece […]

First Look – The New IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night Monochrome
IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day Apr 11, 2024

First Look – The New IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night

The Portugieser is one of IWC‘s oldest ambassadors, and the collection hosts more haute horlogerie models than any other family in the lineup. What unites all these manifestations, from the simplest to the most complex, is the distinctive look of the Portugieser with its clean, well-organised, legible dials and large dimensions. Tourbillons are no strangers […]

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses… Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t Jul 23, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses…

The summer watch is a category as important as pilot’s watch or doctor’s watch, but without the historically derived definition that comes from a serious professional context. A loose definition might include a watch that needs to be robust, waterproof and easy to read after five Aperol Spritzes, but it also needs to be fun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer “Tortoise Shell” ain’t like your Granny’s glasses… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Taking another look at the Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943 Time+Tide
Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943 Editor’s Sep 25, 2019

Taking another look at the Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943

Editor’s note: Panerai are known for many things – a rich Italian heritage in watchmaking that dates back to 1860, steep aquatic history providing watches for the naval forces of many countries, most notably Italy and Egypt, and a quintessential design language that has spanned the better part of a century … the list goes … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite Many Sep 24, 2024

First Look – The Extraterrestrial Meteorite Dial of the De Bethune DB28XS Aérolite

Many of De Bethune’s watches reveal master watchmaker Denis Flageollet’s passion for outer space. Who could forget his interplanetary delta-shaped spaceship known as the Dream Watch 5 or his heat-blued titanium models that evoke the mystery of our cosmos? Flageollet is also drawn to extraterrestrial materials like iron meteorites, particularly fragments of the famous Muonionalusta […]

First Look – Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day Blue and Tourbillon Régulateur Blue Monochrome
Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day Mar 23, 2026

First Look – Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day Blue and Tourbillon Régulateur Blue

Collaborations between Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein are easy to spot by now, and the new Smile-Day Blue and Tourbillon Régulateur Blue fit right in. Over the past few years, the duo has worked across regulators, tourbillons, and more playful complications, always built around Silberstein’s mix of bold colours and simple geometric shapes. It is […]

First Look – The Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, With a Rare Sympathetic Clock Monochrome
Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Feb 2, 2026

First Look – The Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, With a Rare Sympathetic Clock

Here’s the third of the five collaboration watches done by Louis Vuitton with some of the most revered independent watchmakers. Indeed, following the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie made with Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Atelier Akrivia, and the LVKV-02 GMR 6 made with Finnish-born watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, it’s time now for LV to unveil its project […]

First Look – The New Doxa SUB 750T Series, Now a Permanent Collection Monochrome
Doxa SUB 750T Series Now Sep 4, 2025

First Look – The New Doxa SUB 750T Series, Now a Permanent Collection

Since 1967, the Doxa SUB series has been a benchmark in underwater timekeeping, bringing the cushion-shaped case, patented no-decompression bezel and high-contrast dials to professional and recreational divers alike. In 2002, the brand introduced the SUB 750T, a bolder, oversized companion built for extreme depths. For its 20th anniversary, Doxa paid tribute to one of […]

First Look – The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Jan 20, 2025

First Look – The Forest Green Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a Dress Watch to Kill For

A Chopard L.U.C watch offering a perpetual calendar complication with a tourbillon regulator is not new to the series. In 2013, Chopard presented its L.U.C Perpetual T model, which was then followed by two extraordinary unique pieces in 2018, the “La Santa Muerte” decorated with the Mexican motifs and “Spirit of the Chinese Zodiac” in […]

First Look – The Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris Watch, Now Officially Uniting Two Icons Monochrome
Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Oct 31, 2024

First Look – The Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris Watch, Now Officially Uniting Two Icons

Thanks to a licensed collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Piaget has been permitted to rename its cult 1970s Black Tie dress watch, which is now officially “the Andy Warhol watch”. Celebrating this meaningful association with the undisputed King of Pop Art and long-time watch collector and friend of the brand, […]

Artisanal Humour in the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Flagship SJX Watches
Hermes logo Oct 9, 2024

Artisanal Humour in the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Flagship

A clever play on words, the Slim d’Hermès Flagship features a hand-painted dial depicting the flagship Hermès store in Paris as a sailing ship. Executed with a gold appliqué and miniature painting on an aventurine-glass dial, the “flagship” transforms the famous store at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré into the hull of the ship with sails billowing above it. As is often the case with Hermès’ métiers d’art watches, the dial is based on a scarf bearing the same motif designed by Dimitri Rybaltchenko, an artist based in Paris who’s a longtime designer for Hermès. Initial thoughts Both the motif and presentation of the Flagship encapsulate what Hermès does well. It’s typical Hermès – whimsical, elegant, and finely executed. And it’s not just about aesthetics: the depth and detail of the dial decoration is outstanding. Beyond the dial decor, the Flagship also incorporates subtle touches that reflect an attention to detail, like the spinning star disc on the dial and the slightly retro yellow gold case. Slim and witty An aventurine glass base serves as the base for the dial decoration. The store building is a solid gold appliqué that’s hand-engraved with a burin to fill out the fine details of the structure. It’s then painted by hand to add colour to the windows and “Hermes” logo. The rest of the dial, including the sails and starry sky, is done in miniature painting, specifically acrylic paint applied by hand and then baked in an oven to set...

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Aug 28, 2024

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake

Coinciding with Watches & Wonders Shanghai, Vacheron Constantin gets a head start on the 2025 Chinese New Year and releases two limited editions celebrating the Year of the Snake. An annual tradition now for the past 12 years, the brand’s richly decorated Chinese Zodiac pieces not only pay homage to China’s cultural traditions but highlight […]

First Look – The Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler, the Second Chapter of the Story Monochrome
Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Jul 15, 2024

First Look – The Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler, the Second Chapter of the Story

Nothing does more for a brand’s image than having a famous name spontaneously endorse your product. Although Doxa was not the first Swiss brand to produce a professional dive watch, it was the first to introduce a dive watch with a unidirectional rotating bezel to ensure safe no-decompression ascents in 1967. Doxa’s SUB 300, with […]