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Monochrome
Like every year and for now eight consecutive times, Swiss watch industry consultancy firm LuxeConsult and financial institution Morgan Stanley have worked together to bring their annual report of the Swiss watch industry, and the estimated revenues of the top 50 brands. While the 2023 report showed records for the market, it also indicated the […]
Quill & Pad
The first full month of the second half of 2024 continues to show the market in decline. The WatchCharts Overall Market Index lost 0.8% in July, worse than the performance in June.
Quill & Pad
This month’s Dispatch explores the changes in the market we’ve seen against the backdrop of new releases and discontinuations at Watches and Wonders 2023. We also bring you our usual coverage of high level trends for our Overall Market Index and the Big Three brands: Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet.
Worn & Wound
Behrens 2012 is one of the most exciting young brands working in the ever growing affordable avant-garde space. Based in China, Behrens has developed a cult following as of late, riding primarily on the strength of the impressive “Ultralight,” a futuristic design that is typical of their house aesthetic, weighing in just 20 grams. Given the Ultralight’s impressive specs and unique design, the $7,600 price tag feels almost like a bargain, but a look through the Behrens catalog reveals that they have a number of gems at prices that are truly affordable. Their latest watch, the Orion One Automatic, is a little more approachable in terms of price point, but is perhaps the brand’s most outlandish design yet. It’s yet another example of a watchmaking aesthetic that was previously reserved for six figure timepieces working its way down into the affordable segment. The case of the Orion One recalls something between a spaceship and what you’d see under the hood of a modern supercar. It’s the kind of thing that barely resembles a watch, at first, but reveals its form and complexity as you observe it. The first thing you notice is likely the array of gears under the sapphire crystal window at the top of the case, where you’d normally find a dial. Here, the only time telling function is a running seconds hand at the center. Time is read through a “twin roller” time display system at the 6:00 position. It’s fairly intuitive, but in a position that you’re li...
Hodinkee
The continued rise of Cartier and complicated Patek, a $400,000 G-Shock, along with what's not-so-hot in today's market.
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Hodinkee
The continued rise of neo-vintage, the over-saturation of Journe (and others?), and the year we embrace jewelry watches.
Time+Tide
No matter how exquisite the finishing, how innovative the escapement, or how beautiful the colour of the dial, unfortunately these days the worth of a watch can be far more literal in the eyes of the broader marketplace. Outside of the scope of die-hard watch geekdom, a watch is only alluring as its value on … ContinuedThe post First 2023 Rolex novelties hit the secondary market – where does the new GMT Master II sit? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
We are seeing more and more releases of vintage and prestige cuvees from the great champagne producers. Latest cab off the ranks is the 2014 La Grande Année from Bollinger (and the Rosé from the same year). Ken Gargett tackles questions about it including: where does 2014 rank? Is it a justifiable release? If so, what makes it so?
Quill & Pad
Tenuta San Guido's 2015 Sassicaia was a warm vintage but an exceptional one, and that is reflected in the wine. It is considered to have similarities with the sensational vintage conditions of 1985, which Ken Gargett has tasted twice and has rated 100 points standing on its head both times. Sassicaia is one of the most famous wines of Italy, and often one of the country’s very best.
Time+Tide
It feels like a lifetime ago that I was heading home from the DOXA Australia Launch Event to pack my bags for Dubai Watch Week 2019. Since then, the global pandemic put a stop to any in-person watch events (with the exception of the LVMH Watch Week and more recently at a socially distanced Geneva Watch … ContinuedThe post “The grey market is a creation of the brands, and they need to address it.” The virtual Horology Forum 2020, brought to you by Dubai Watch Week, kicks off with a bang appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
SIHH 2017 is a wrap. It’s done. After months of anticipation and speculation (along with regret for us Aussies leaving behind summer for subzero temperatures) the first watch fair of the year is behind us, the next one not too far away. But before we even think about the ‘B(asel)’ word, Felix and I want to … ContinuedThe post LIST: The 6 defining moments of SIHH 2017* (AKA the Friday Wind Down) *Product does not contain doom or gloom appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A true chronometer from Longines and an early variant of an iconic Rolex lead the way.
Fratello
A few weeks ago, on a cool autumn morning in Bologna, I found myself wandering through a vintage market tucked between porticoed streets and the kind of cafés where the espresso machine never sleeps. Among boxes of old coins, war-era postcards, and lovingly worn leather jackets, a couple of small steel items caught my eye […] Visit Finding A Vintage Perseo Italian Railway Watch In A Flea Market to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
In the world of Rolex, most people’s minds go straight to rarity, unattainability, and exclusivity. And in so many cases that rings true – except (and you may find this hard to believe) for the Submariner. That’s right, Rolex’s stalwart and most ubiquitous watch is also, kind of, its most accessible on the secondary market… and I am talking vintage and neovintage here. Sure, there are rare examples like Explorer dials (we will get to that in a bit), and early ref. 1680 Red Submariners that fetch a pretty penny at auction or from a vintage dealer. But there’s a very real reason for that. Those watches in particular fall into a bucket shared by many collectible rarities: They were only produced for a very short period of time. But there were many variations of vintage Subs, some rarer than others. And some still that weren’t rare at all. And the best example of that is the Rolex 5513, a Submariner model so common that it was one of Rolex’s most popular and best selling over the course of its – wait for it – 17-year run. Rolex 5513 History The Rolex Submariner ref. 5513 was in production from 1962 until 1989, and while there are some pockets of special ref. 5513 models within that run, it is for the most part of one the brand’s longest-selling and most-produced Submariners, or even sports watches full stop (the Explorer ref. 1016 has entered the chat). In 1962, Rolex had been producing its Submariner reference 5512 for about three years. The 5512 was a n...
Fratello
The King Seiko 45KS is a lesson in finding value in vintage. Unlike its modern counterparts, this King Seiko offers a fiercely large amount of watch for the money. Depending on its condition, the 45KS can be found on the secondary market for €900–1,500. Modern Seiko has a problem. It’s not rival brands, such as […] Visit Value In Vintage With The King Seiko 45KS to read the full article.
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Fratello
Over the last couple of weeks, you’ve seen some of the guys pick favorites among some of the best vintage watches on the market for less than €5,000. I set them out to complete this task, so it only seems fair that I join in. Today, I’ve scratched the surface of the vast selection of […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Nacho’s Picks From Breitling, Omega, And Doxa to read the full article.
Welcome to episode one hundred of A Week in Watches! It’s hard to believe we’ve reached this milestone-what started in 2022 as a weekly rundown of the latest watch releases has now spanned two and a half years. We’ve covered countless releases from big brands, independent watchmakers, and everything in between. There have been plenty of opinions shared, a few laughs along the way, and most importantly, a thriving community of viewers who have made this journey so rewarding. Your continued support, comments, and enthusiasm keep this show going. To mark episode 100, we wanted to do something special, so we reached out to the Worn & Wound Plus Slack community and our Instagram followers for a special AMA session with Zach Weiss. Thank you to everyone who submitted questions, and apologies if we didn’t get to yours. This episode is made possible by the Windup Watch Shop, featuring Worn & Wound’s latest limited edition collaboration with Nivada Grenchen-the 36mm Meca-Quartz Datomaster in green and teal with a hint of purple. Check those out and more here. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 100: AMA! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
The vintage expert returns to give us a market update, tell some old stories, and generally get nerdy about watches.
SJX Watches
Capping several months of rumours, Richemont has just announced the appointment of Louis Ferla as the chief executive of Cartier. Having been in charge of Vacheron Constantin since 2017 – during which its annual sales tripled to about €1 billion – Mr Ferla succeeds Cyrille Vigneron, who is retiring after eight years at the top of the jewel in Richemont’s crown. This news comes just weeks after Nicolas Bos was named chief executive of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that also owns brands like Van Cleef & Arpels and IWC. Mr Bos was the longtime chief executive of Van Cleef & Arpels and will be replaced by Catherine Rénier, who’s been running Jaeger-LeCoultre since 2018. Elevating VC Officially assuming the coveted top job at Cartier on September 1, Mr Ferla has been with Richemont since 2001 when he joined Alfred Dunhill, before moving to Cartier in 2006 where he rose to International Director of Clients and Business. His tenure at Vacheron Constantin saw the brand increase both its sales and margins as the brand trimmed its retail network to focus on in-house boutiques, while also boosting its offerings of high-end, one-off Les Cabinotiers timepieces. Vacheron Constantin has yet to announce Mr Ferla’s replacement, but his deputy, chief commercial officer Laurent Perves, will step up as the interim chief executive. Mr Ferla’s name became the subject of conversations in the industry at end 2022, when it emerged he was one of the candidates to succeed Francois...
Fratello
In March 2022, the global watch market was at an all-time high. A stainless steel Rolex Daytona was worth just over €50,000, any new limited-edition watch would sell out in a matter of minutes, and sites like Fratello attracted a lot of new readers. Since then, things have cooled down substantially. According to Chrono24, that […] Visit Weekend Contemplation: The Watch Market Isn’t In Crisis, But How Should We Describe Its Current State? to read the full article.
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![[Video] The Rado Anatom, and What the Next Vintage Watch Revival Might Look Like](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/03/Rado-AnatomAutomatic_07.jpg)
Worn & Wound
When you write about watches for a living, it’s impossible not to think about the concept of vintage reissues and vintage inspired watches on an almost daily basis. For the last ten years, at least, vintage inspired watches have been the key driving force in the watch market, even if you take a somewhat narrow view of what a “vintage inspired” watch really is. They have been ubiquitous for a long time now. But that’s changing. We no longer live in an environment where every other watch that finds its way into my inbox is based on a design from the middle of the last century. They’re still there, to be sure, but it’s not nearly as overwhelming as it once was. It’s been gratifying to see many brands, a lot of them small and making watches at affordable price points, introduce popular contemporary designs that are original and have resonated strongly with the community. By the same token, the best makers of watches inspired by designs from the 1950s and 1960s have established themselves more firmly, and carved out niches for themselves in the enthusiast community where their watches don’t feel like knock-offs, but part of a long tradition, and possessed of their own unique design language. It occurs to me though that my perspective on this could simply be that of someone who is getting older. I’ve rounded 40 now, and am shocked on a weekly basis to learn that albums and movies that meant a lot to me in high school and college are now celebrating 20 and 2...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bulova A17A Military Watch Vintage military watches are always highly sought after, and this one is a really cool example. The Bulova A17A mil-spec is small but mighty. These were made from about 1956-1962, and were issued as navigation watches for aviators. Nice smaller but chunky steel case with the original bead blasted finish and the military engravings on the back. The black dial is easy to read, and the lume has a nice patina. And you gotta love the oversized crown for the manual wind movement. No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs. View auction here. Pulsar LED I don’t know why so many vintage LED watches are popping out of the woodwork, but I’m loving it. This week we have a sleek looking vintage Pulsar LED, complete with original bracelet, inner and outer boxes and a boat load of paperwork. This is a fantastic time-capsule piece that is in immaculate condition, and is currently working great! Look at that futuro / space age look of the steel case and that wild bracelet. Even the warranty paperwork is filled out, which you rarely see. So cool! View auction here. Heuer Autavia GMT Chronograph Ok, time for a big boy. This is the famous Heuer Autavia GMT ch...
Time+Tide
There’s no shortage of vintage-inspired divers in the independent and microbrand market. While many brands have got this formula wrong and wheeled out bland homages, some have also got it right and today’s brand, Fleux, is a prime example. The two models that we’ll dig into below – the FLX001 and FLX002 – are launching … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Fleux Watches revives the 1960s with two vintage-throwback divers for less than $500 each appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As the first mechanical alarm wristwatch and a watch that graced the wrists of presidents since 1953 – the Vulcain Cricket was always a great vintage proposition. For 2022, however, Vulcain is releasing two model lines across two sizes that will continue the Cricket’s legacy, comprising of the Vulcain Cricket Classic and Cricket Tradition. The … ContinuedThe post “I don’t like cricket – I love it!” Why the new Vulcain Cricket is one of the best vintage re-issues to date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The 2022 Formula 1 season is back after the summer break, and we here at Time + Tide couldn’t be more stoked. This is a season fraught with intrigue, from McLaren cutting loose favourite Aussie son Daniel Ricciardo, to his replacement, young gun and fellow countryman Oscar Piastri sliding into Ricciardo’s seat for his inaugural … ContinuedThe post Winning Formula: 5 of the coolest vintage watches in Formula 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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