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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition Time+Tide
Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Dec 2, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition

The latest young star to join the ranks of Rado is the Australian tennis player Ash Barty, who despite being only 23 has already reached the position of women’s world No. 1. What is most exciting for us, and her fans around the world, is that she has collaborated with Rado to release a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale Time+Tide
Pequignet Dec 2, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale

Getting engaged is an incredibly special moment in anyone’s life, as it spells the beginning of something that will endure to stand the test of time. What better way to celebrate than with a new watch, to match your fiancée’s new ring. This is the story of David and his Pequignet Rue Royale. When did … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prototype in Titanium SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prot... Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas “Everest” Dual-Time Prototype in Titanium

In early June 2019, American mountaineer Cory Richards embarked on his third attempt at scaling Mount Everest – after successfully reaching the summit twice before, including once without oxygen – but had to give up halfway due to dangerous weather. In fact, the year’s climbing season was one of the deadliest in recent years, with 11 climbers dead or missing. Prior to his valiant but unsuccessful attempt at Everest, Mr Richards worked with Vacheron Constantin to develop a watch for the occasion. He wanted something light, robust and able to track two time zones. Mr Richards at Everest base camp wearing the Overseas Dual Time prototype. Photo – Vacheron Constantin/Keith Ladzinski The beefed-up Overseas The result was the one-off Overseas Dual-Time prototype that looks a great deal more aggressive than the average Overseas. In fact, the designers at Vacheron Constantin managed to boost its presence and sportiness without bulking it up too much; the diameter remains the same. Mr Richards wore the watch up Everest, and now Vacheron Constantin has donated it to charity. Exactly as it was when Mr Richards left Mount Everest, with scratches on the case and fraying on the strap, the prototype will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction, with all proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Though identical in size to the standard Overseas Dual Time – the case is 41mm in diameter – this prototype has a bulked-up case, primarily with the addition...

Rolling in the deep with the Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm It Dec 2, 2019

Rolling in the deep with the Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm

It has been a big year for Panerai’s distinctive Submersible range, with the new and now standalone collection featuring heavily at the watchmaker’s 2019 SIHH showing. The amphibious timepieces, while varied, have been a great opportunity for Panerai to show off some of their newest innovative materials. Case in point is this Submersible, the BMG-TECH … ContinuedThe post Rolling in the deep with the Panerai Submersible BMG-TECH 47mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection Time+Tide
Rolex Cellini collection Editor’s note:Benvenuto Dec 1, 2019

Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection

Editor’s note:Benvenuto Cellini was an Italian goldsmith and sculptor born in the last year of the 15th century, who would go on to become one of the most important precious metal workers of his time, finding employment with the royal families of Europe and the Vatican. It is this talented artisan who was the inspiration … ContinuedThe post Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: How NASA tested the Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster There Dec 1, 2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: How NASA tested the Omega Speedmaster

There is a plethora of watches out there with an equally large amount of claims. First watch with a date complication. First watch with a GMT complication. First waterproof watch. However, of all the watches on sale today, the coolest claim surely has to be: “The first watch worn on the moon.” I’m sure that … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: How NASA tested the Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch SJX Watches
Rado x Nov 28, 2019

In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch

Voutilainen watches are well loved for their dials, which are made in-house and offered with a myriad of finishes – primarily guilloché or enamel – as well as numerous colours and appliques. But unconstrained freedom leads to hesitation, and too many choices make a decision difficult. American psychologist Barry Schwartz, writing in The Paradox of Choice, notes that consumers are often happier having to choose from fewer options, rather than more. The author’s custom GMT-Villes But in my own collecting, perhaps the opposite is true. When I work with an independent watchmaker on a custom or bespoke watch, exploring the abundance of possibilities is the main attraction, particularly when I can specify the details face to face with the watchmaker himself. Investing sufficient time to figure out my goal makes the process of choosing not a task to be feared, but an enjoyable journey leading to the unique piece. This is my story of commissioning the GMT-Villes from Kari Voutilainen (which happened slightly before I embarked on a similar project with Andreas Strehler). Kari Voutilainen in his showroom. Image – FHH The beginning of custom work After setting up his own workshop in 2002, Kari, then 40 years old, made his debut as an independent watchmaker with the Masterpiece series of wristwatches, starting with Masterpiece 6 unveiled at Baselworld in 2005. The Masterpiece watches were all one-off minute repeaters relying on rebuilt and finely decorated vintage ebauches ma...

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite Nov 27, 2019

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite is a highly technical yet decorative grand complication panelled in meteorite and aventurine. But it also evokes watchmaking of the early 2000s in its mechanical grandeur. Exotic tourbillons started to proliferate at the turn of the millennium, and soon the offerings were numerous, ranging from orbital to inclined to multi-axis. Today such tourbillons are commonplace, but in the early 2000s they were radical and cutting edge. While the orbital tourbillon was nothing more than a visual spectacle, the inclined and multi-axis tourbillons were attempts to adapt Breguet’s invention for the wrist, in other words they made chronometric sense, at least on paper. One of the earliest and most significant multi-axis tourbillons was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon of 2005. While it wasn’t the first multi-axis tourbillon in a wristwatch – that honour goes to Thomas Prescher – the Gyrotourbillon was distinguished by its elaborate, three-dimensional cage of lightweight aluminium, made possible only with the aid of modern technology. The original Gyrotourbillon of 2005, which also incorporated a perpetual calendar with equation of time With the leap year and power reserve displays on the back The Gyrotourbillon was arguably the complication that defined Jaeger-LeCoultre as an haute horlogerie brand rather than a movement maker for other marques. Since its launch the Gyrotourbillon evolved into several iterations, including thi...

What Sealed The Deal – Andreas’ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Has Nov 27, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – Andreas’ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M

Has any one watch had more of an immediate effect on its audience than the Omega Seamasters featured in James Bond films? Seriously … almost every single time we talk to anyone about their SMP, invariably 007 is hurled into the equation. It’s got to be one of the smartest pieces of marketing since, well, … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – Andreas’ Omega Seamaster Professional 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Is this Baume & Mercier the best dress watch you can buy for under $5K? Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Nov 26, 2019

VIDEO: Is this Baume & Mercier the best dress watch you can buy for under $5K?

Anyone looking for a capable and exceedingly handsome dress watch on a relatively low budget needs to sit up and pay attention now, because this Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic is unquestionably one of the bargains of the moment. Here is a wristwatch that retails for a mere $4600 AUD, and yet it’s powered by … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Is this Baume & Mercier the best dress watch you can buy for under $5K? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Chopard’s svelte Alpine Eagle 41mm with Bernina Grey dial Time+Tide
Chopard s svelte Alpine Eagle Nov 25, 2019

HANDS-ON: Chopard’s svelte Alpine Eagle 41mm with Bernina Grey dial

This has unquestionably been the year of the contentious steel sports watch, with just about every watchmaker and their Bernese entering the fray in what has to be the most hotly contested genre of timepieces in the current watch market. Chief among these new steely provocateurs is Chopard’s Alpine Eagle. We’ve been fortunate enough to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Chopard’s svelte Alpine Eagle 41mm with Bernina Grey dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage SJX Watches
Casio Introduces Nov 25, 2019

Casio Introduces the G-Shock “Full Titanium” Camouflage

Just a few months after the G-Shock 5000-series in titanium was unveiled, Casio has announced the G-Shock GMW-B5000TCM-1, which is essentially the same but with an unusual, laser-engraved camouflage pattern on the case and bracelet. The pattern is achieved by varying the size of the pixels that make up the camouflage motif; three different pixel sizes are engraved to create shading of the camouflage. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard titanium model, which means a sapphire crystal, black screen and gold accents. The case is in lightweight titanium case and bracelet – coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC) – weighing just 110g in total. (Editor’s note: I handled one just last week and it’s a cool-looking watch that light on the wrist, but the price is pretty steep for what it is, though it’s probably worth the premium just for the cool factor.) Also announced at the same time is the G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A, which has the same engraved camouflage pattern, except on the steel case and bracelet that have a black ion-plated (IP) coating. G-Shock MTG-B1000DCM-1A Key facts and price G-Shock “Full Titanium” in camouflage print Ref. GMW-B5000TCM-1JR Diameter: 43.2mm Height: 13mm Material: Titanium engraved with camouflage pattern and coated with DLC Water resistance: 200m Movement: Electronic Functions: Multi-function electronic with Bluetooth connectivity Winding: Solar-powered Power reserve: 22 months Strap: Titanium bracelet Limited edit...

Business News: LVMH Buys Tiffany & Co. for US$16.2 Billion SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Nov 25, 2019

Business News: LVMH Buys Tiffany & Co. for US$16.2 Billion

After several weeks of negotiations, LVMH has sealed the deal to buy Tiffany & Co. in a US$16.2 billion, all-cash deal. Despite several years of listless growth and a declining share price – though its current management was in a midst of engineering a turnaround – Tiffany & Co. is the biggest acquisition ever in the luxury goods industry. The French luxury conglomerate, which owns Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, is paying US$135 a share, about 35% above the last traded price before news of the takeover broke. With the acquisition of the storied American jeweller, LVMH strengthens its presence in the “hard” luxury business of jewellery and watches, a segment traditionally dominated by its Swiss rival Richemont, the owner of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and most recently, Buccellati. The addition of Tiffany’s to its 75-strong stable of brands, which includes watchmakers like Hublot and TAG Heuer, will also help LVMH grow its presence in China and the United States, where the jeweller’s baubles are popular. And the deal also means Tiffany’s well regarded chief executive, Alessandro Bogliolo, returns to LVMH, where he was once the chief operating officer at Bulgari.  

Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Becomes Most Expensive Watch Sold in Asia SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2523 World Time Nov 25, 2019

Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 World Time Becomes Most Expensive Watch Sold in Asia

Just two weeks after the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in steel set the record for the most expensive watch ever when it sold for US$31m at Christie’s in Geneva, the auctioneer clinched the title of most expensive watch sold in Asia, toppling the former record holder. It sold a Patek Philippe ref. 2523 double-crown world time wristwatch – with a blue enamel dial signed by Milan retailer Gobbi – for HK$70.175m including fees, equivalent to US$8.97m. The result yields a tidy profit for the seller, a noted Asian collector who purchased the watch in 2010 at Christie’s in Geneva for 2.675m Swiss francs. One of two known with a blue enamel dial and extremely crisp, the ref. 2523 was offered for sale in an unusual manner. Though it was part of the Hong Kong watch auction, the watch was instead offered as the first lot during the 20th century and contemporary art sale a few days before, presumably to appeal to buyers who regularly spend much larger sums on art. The watch was extensively documented by Christie’s in its catalogues, both online and offline, though it did not do the typical presale marketing tour around the region due to its insured value. The presale estimate of HK$55m-110m, or about US$7m-14m, made the ref. 2523 the most expensive lot to be ever offered at a watch auction – leading to some mutterings that the watch might not sell – so anticipation was high when the sale started at 5:30pm, especially since ultra high-value vintage watches are usual...

Omega Introduces the James Bond Limited Edition Set SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Nov 25, 2019

Omega Introduces the James Bond Limited Edition Set

Omega is slowly counting down to the latest James Bond film, No Time to Die, which is scheduled for April 2020, with a trickle of 007-themed watches. Just two months ago it debuted a Seamaster Diver 300M to mark half a century of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (OHMSS),  and now it’s the release of a box set of two watches in steel and gold respectively, presented in a suitcase by British luggage maker Globe-Trotter. Limited to 257, the James Bond Limited Edition Set is made up of a pair of Seamaster dive watches almost identical to the earlier OHMSS edition but without the date. Both are essentially variants of the 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M but tweaked to incorporate several references to 007. The stainless-steel model features a black ceramic bezel insert with a white enamel scale, while the yellow gold version has a scale of Ceragold, which is ceramic with gold filling for the markings. Both have black ceramic dials engraved with the gun barrel motif taken from the title sequence of James Bond films. The hands and indices of both models are yellow gold, with the 12 o’clock marker inspired by the fictional Bond family coat of arms. A subtle detail is the “50” embedded within the luminous marker at ten o’clock, visible only in the dark, a nod to the 50th anniversary of OHMSS. And there’s also the tiny “007” that takes the place of the marker on the minute track. A commemorative plate bearing the set serial number is screwed into the side of the case, ...

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nov 24, 2019

Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional

While wandering the booths of Dubai Watch Week, any enthusiastic eye can spot Rolex, Patek Philippe and the rest of the usual suspects on the wrists of other attendees, but it was a surprise to see a flash of orange pass by one afternoon. Sure enough, after stopping and speaking with Julian briefly, I confirmed … ContinuedThe post Dubai Watch Week WSTD – Julian’s DOXA SUB 300 Professional appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia Time+Tide
Doxa Nov 24, 2019

Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia

If I could offer one piece of advice for anyone who is ever asked to speak at a watch event, it is this: know your stuff. At the second launch of Doxa watches in Australia in a week, this time in Sydney at the home of Oscar Hunt tailors in York Street, I spoke about … ContinuedThe post Real watch lovers of Sydney turn out for second launch of DOXA in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Keeping it classic: 3 of the best Hublot Classic Fusions Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusions It’s fair Nov 24, 2019

Keeping it classic: 3 of the best Hublot Classic Fusions

It’s fair to say that Hublot is mostly known for their iconic range of Big Bang timepieces. And that’s completely understandable, as the Big Bang is the brainchild of the Swiss watchmaking doyen, Jean-Claude Biver. Furthermore, the timepiece itself is credited with saving Hublot from an uncertain future when it was first released in 2005. … ContinuedThe post Keeping it classic: 3 of the best Hublot Classic Fusions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Hublot’s Prancing Pony Time+Tide
Hublot s Prancing Pony Nov 23, 2019

VIDEO: Hublot’s Prancing Pony

At Baselworld 2019, Hublot released a new chronograph in partnership with Ferrari that looked almost un-Hublot. We had become so used to recognising the hard angles and faceted cases of the brand founded by Carlo Crocco that the flowing curves of the newest Classic Fusion were staggeringly svelte in comparison, and suddenly appealing to an entire … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot’s Prancing Pony appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection” Time+Tide
Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection” Nov 23, 2019

INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection”

The limited edition watch is a tactic used by watch brands that is receiving increasing numbers of eye-rolls as dozens are churned out each year. But where many brands simply change a dial colour and limit production to 200 pieces, Bremont has been making limited editions with a difference. Cutting through the noise of endless … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Rock and rolling with the Bremont Ronnie Wood “1947 Collection” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Introduces the Legacy Machine 101 in Palladium SJX Watches
Breguet overcoil Visible through Nov 23, 2019

MB&F; Introduces the Legacy Machine 101 in Palladium

In 2014, MB&F; unveiled the Legacy Machine 101 (LM101), its most affordable classically-styled watch, but nonetheless equipped with a beautifully executed, hand-wound movement that had its styling and decoration conceived by Kari Voutilainen. Several editions later, including the pair of “Frost”watches and one in platinum, the brand unveils the Legacy Machine 101 Palladium. Limited to 18 pieces, the watch has the same dimensions as the earlier versions of the LM101, so the case 40mm wide, making it the smallest Legacy Machine. It is made of palladium, a bright white metal that resembles platinum – they are both in the same family of metals – but is considerably lighter, yet harder and more resistant to scratches. The case has a polished top surface on the lugs and bezel, with a contrasting brushed case band. It is combined with a pale blue, sunray-brushed dial, on which time is indicated on a sub-dial at two o’clock and a power reserve on a smaller sub-dial at six o’clock. Both sub-dials are in white lacquer with printed markers, giving them a vague resemblance to porcelain dials on antique pocket watches. Like all other Legacy Machines, the balance wheel is suspended high above the dial by an arched balance bridge. The balance is 14mm large with four adjustable weights for regulation and a hairspring with a Breguet overcoil. Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement demonstrates a significant degree of fine finishing and classical details, no doub...