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Results for Lug-to-Lug

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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.
Raymond Weil’s Expanded Millesime Collection Worn & Wound
Raymond Weil Apr 18, 2024

Raymond Weil’s Expanded Millesime Collection

If you had told me a few weeks ago that one of the brands I’d feel best about coming out of Watches & Wonders 2024 would be Raymond Weil, I’d probably have been pretty confused, because at that point I don’t think I even had a meeting set up with the brand, and their attendance at the show was not even on my radar. But Watches & Wonders, as ever, has surprises in store for everyone. And sometimes you wind up taking an unexpected appointment with a brand you frankly don’t really know much about or have paid much attention to over the years, and it completely wins you over. Raymond Weil, dollar for dollar and watch for watch, had one of the most impressive showings at this year’s Watches & Wonders, and they took me completely off guard.  Worn & Wound has covered Raymond Weil sporadically over the course of our website’s existence. CEO Elie Bernheim came on the podcast in 2017, and there have been a handful of new releases written about and reviews filed, but for the most part Raymond Weil has simply not appeared in these pages. Why is that? Well, for much of the brand’s history, they just haven’t caught the eye of the enthusiast. Raymond Weil has always positioned itself as a mass market brand making affordable watches for everyday people, not collectors or connoisseurs, necessarily. There’s nothing at all wrong with that, of course, it was just never really our wheelhouse.    View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Zach Kazan (@zkazan) But the b...

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Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGC275 Apr 15, 2024

Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial

Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog.  Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...

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Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot Fratello
Cartier Hermès Apr 15, 2024

Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot

Maybe it’s because I experienced Watches and Wonders from a distance this year, but I have the feeling there weren’t really any big showstoppers among all the novelties. However, that certainly doesn’t mean there weren’t any good releases. And who buys those showstoppers anyway? That’s why, for my list of favorites, I’ve chosen a trio […] Visit Fratello Favorites: Daan’s Favorite Watches And Wonders 2024 Releases By Cartier, Hermès, And Hublot to read the full article.

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The Jump Hour: A Love Story Quill & Pad
Apr 14, 2024

The Jump Hour: A Love Story

The jump hour has a long history, but first things first: it can’t technically be called a complication since the accepted definition of complication is a mechanism that provides information other than the time. However, anyone who gives a hoot will say in the same breath that there are many complications that don’t fit that definition and Joshua Munchow couldn’t agree more. But why does he love the jump hour so much?

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Public Service Announcement: Save The Vintage Gold Watches Fratello
Apr 13, 2024

Public Service Announcement: Save The Vintage Gold Watches

If you haven’t been watching, gold prices have been on a tear over the past year. Currently, the metal is trading at an all-time high. For lovers of vintage watches made from the precious metal, it’s time to wake up and take action. When bidding at auction on an old gold watch, there’s a good […] Visit Public Service Announcement: Save The Vintage Gold Watches to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Apr 12, 2024

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

I don’t know exactly why, but Parmigiani Fleurier isn’t a brand we often discuss in the Fratello office. For some reason, the brand often passes just below our radar. Maybe it simply has something to do with the fact that its watches are out of budget for most of our team members. However, whenever we […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date to read the full article.

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Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek Worn & Wound
Czapek Czapek & Cie has Apr 11, 2024

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek

Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...

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Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models

At Watches and Wonders last year, TAG Heuer presented new Carrera models using a 39mm Glassbox case design. Many celebrated these watches due to their clean, classic looks and moderate size. Since then, more variants have entered the lineup, including a full-gold model and the return of the cult-classic Skipper. Now we have two new […] Visit Introducing: The New TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox Models to read the full article.

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Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver Fratello
Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Apr 10, 2024

Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver

Well, well, well… What do we have here? A proper dedicated dive watch in the Zenith lineup, that’s what! The Le Locle-based brand hasn’t made one of these for decades, but it seems the team has pulled out all the stops with the Defy Extreme Diver. Alongside it comes the new (although somewhat predictable) Defy […] Visit Meet The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph And Defy Extreme Diver to read the full article.

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Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024 Time+Tide
Hermes Apr 9, 2024

Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024

As a rule, fashion brands and watches don’t usually mix. However, Hermès is a rare exception. Not only is Hermès one of the most highly revered fashion brands of all time, but in recent years, it has gained a significant foothold in being able to compete with the best in the watch business. Firstly, the … ContinuedThe post Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT - By Very Popular Request Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT - By Very Popular Request

Almost ever since the Tudor Black Bay 58 came out, people have been craving a GMT version. But, of course, this isn’t the first GMT watch in Tudor’s collection. The regular 41mm Black Bay GMT debuted in 2018. After that, the smaller 39mm Black Bay Pro showed its face in 2022. However, both of those […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT - By Very Popular Request to read the full article.

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Nomos Celebrates Diversity And Its First Physical Appearance At Watches And Wonders With The Colorful Tangente 38 Datum Fratello
Nomos Celebrates Diversity Apr 9, 2024

Nomos Celebrates Diversity And Its First Physical Appearance At Watches And Wonders With The Colorful Tangente 38 Datum

What should a watch brand do when it physically attends Watches and Wonders for the very first time and wants to be noticed? I think that’s exactly the question the people at Nomos asked themselves. Their answer was to launch 31 new and colorful versions of the brand’s signature Tangente 38 Datum. Yes, you read […] Visit Nomos Celebrates Diversity And Its First Physical Appearance At Watches And Wonders With The Colorful Tangente 38 Datum to read the full article.

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Rolex Introduces The GMT-Master II Black And Gray In Stainless Steel Fratello
Rolex Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Rolex Introduces The GMT-Master II Black And Gray In Stainless Steel

Last year, Rolex released a string of hits. Among the biggest were the yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II with a black and gray bezel. The combination of colors and the Jubilee bracelets made for a duo of GMT-Master IIs that quickly won people over. But this year, the duo has become […] Visit Rolex Introduces The GMT-Master II Black And Gray In Stainless Steel to read the full article.

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Cartier Introduces The Rewind And Dual Time Versions Of Its Beloved Santos Fratello
Cartier Introduces Apr 9, 2024

Cartier Introduces The Rewind And Dual Time Versions Of Its Beloved Santos

Whether it’s the more elegant and classy Santos-Dumont or the sportier Santos de Cartier, Cartier’s Santos collection continues to be immensely popular. No wonder the French Maison adds a few new references to the lineup every year. Understandably, 2024 is no exception, and there are even a few surprise appearances here. What to think of […] Visit Cartier Introduces The Rewind And Dual Time Versions Of Its Beloved Santos to read the full article.

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IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Apr 9, 2024

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence.  The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...

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In-Depth: The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Perhaps Apr 9, 2024

In-Depth: The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Perhaps the complication most associated with IWC, the perpetual calendar with its distinctive four-digit year display was introduced in 1985 in the Da Vinci. Today IWC takes the “perpetual” concept to its maximum with the Portugieser Eternal Calendar that boasts a supercharged perpetual calendar, otherwise known as a secular calendar, requiring no adjustment for a thousand years. In addition, it is equipped with a moon phase of unprecedented accuracy – a day in 45 million years. Initial thoughts Even though it appears similar to the standard Portugieser Perpetual Calendar – though it is slightly thicker and wider – the Eternal Calendar is an appealing and note-worthy proposition in terms of its technical merits. The rare complication, however, comes at preposterously steep price. Discreetly dressed in the classic Portugieser case, but the Eternal Calendar reveals a modern twist in the form of the glass dial that shows off the calendar works underneath. To accomplish that, the movement employs a sapphire bridge in the calendar module, marking the first time IWC is using the material as a structural element in a calibre. The extensive use of sapphire hints at the impressive technicality of the movement, giving a sense of tangibility to the mechanics within.  And the mechanics are certainly worth admiring. An “eternal” or secular calendar complication is appealing, for both the mechanical inclined and even the plain romantic who wants something that will go on...

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The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable? Revolution
Ferdinand Berthoud Apr 5, 2024

The New Ferdinand Berthoud Of 2024 Is Now Customisable?

In 2020, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud introduced its second collection, the Chronomètre FB 2RE. This timepiece signaled a significant milestone for the Maison, featuring the first round case, a display with three central hands, and notably, the debut of a movement with a double regulation system-a fusion of fusee-and-chain transmission with a one-second “remontoir d’égalité”. This […]

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Two New Moser Pioneers Announced Just Before Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
H. Moser Apr 4, 2024

Two New Moser Pioneers Announced Just Before Watches & Wonders

Watches & Wonders hasn’t started yet, but I think we can safely identify the first honest to goodness trend: brands exhibiting at the show announcing new watches ahead of the big event. We saw it last week with Czapek, and now H. Moser is following suit with what I think can be fairly described as a Watches & Wonders apéritif. The Swiss indie has just announced a pair of watches in their Pioneer line in two distinct shades of green. One is a long awaited new entry in the Pioneer’s 40mm case, and the other is the latest example of Moser’s signature “Concept” dial.  First up is the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green. If you’re unfamiliar with Moser’s Concept dials, they are devoid of markings and visible branding on the dial, and a showcase for whatever color, texture, or design Moser is interested in showcasing for a given watch. It’s a design principle that has become Moser’s signature, and while it’s certainly not for everyone, fans of the brand admire their commitment to showing off what are often vibrant colors and letting a stripped down aesthetic speak for itself.  The Citrus Green colorway has a dramatic green fumé effect, with the shade at the center appearing yellow while growing to a darker green shade as we move to the perimeter. This reference is in the larger 42.8mm steel Pioneer case, which is water resistant to 120 meters. The Streamliner notwithstanding, the Pioneer is the closest thing Moser makes to a true sports watch, and...

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SpaceOne Introduces the Tellurium, an Affordable Astronomical Complication in a Futuristic Package Worn & Wound
Apr 4, 2024

SpaceOne Introduces the Tellurium, an Affordable Astronomical Complication in a Futuristic Package

One of my absolute favorite discoveries at last year’s Watches & Wonders wasn’t even at Watches & Wonders, but at a presentation at the Beau Rivage hotel by Guillaume Laidet and Théo Auffret. Their new brand, now known as SpaceOne, was launching, and the watch they presented, a spaceship shaped bit of imagination with an impressive jump hour complication designed by Auffret, kind of blew me away. As a sci-fi nerd, I’m an easy mark for this kind of thing, admittedly, but even taking the futuristic, space stuff out of it, I was just incredibly excited to see this kind of purely imaginative watchmaking happening at such an accessible price point. It struck me at the time as being part of a wave of somewhat gonzo watch designs that take their cues from the highest of high horology, but bring the barrier to entry way down.  One year later, SpeceOne has released their follow up, a watch that I think in many ways is even more impressive than the Jump Hour. The Tellurium continues down the cosmological path set forth by the debut (and the brand name) with an astronomical complication that heretofore would be hard to imagine in a watch retailing for just under 3,000 EUR. This watch, in addition to telling the time and featuring a calendar with the date and month, tracks the moon’s orbit around the earth and the earth’s orbit around the sun via the heliocentric tellurium that is the core of the watch.  This is an admittedly more simple version of a planetarium watch tha...

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Introducing – The New & Improved Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series (SRPK87, SRPK89, SRPK91) Monochrome
Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series Apr 4, 2024

Introducing – The New & Improved Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series (SRPK87, SRPK89, SRPK91)

Launched in 1963, the Seiko Sportsmatic 5 was Seiko’s and Japan’s first automatic day-date watch. With its solid water and shock-resistant stainless case and bracelet, practical functions, automatic movement and accessible price, the Seiko 5 became an instant best-seller among young people. Following Seiko’s participation in the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, exports of the Seiko 5 […]

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Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection Fratello
Bravur Apr 2, 2024

Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection

The people at Swedish brand Bravur are about as crazy about watches as they are about cycling. Last year, the brand from Båstad gave us the Grand Tour Chronograph series inspired by the three grand tours - Giro d’Italia, Tour de France, and Vuelta a España. This year, the inspiration comes from iconic cycling teams […] Visit Attention, Fans Of Both Cycling And Watches: Bravur Launches The Three-Watch-Strong Team Heritage Collection to read the full article.

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Tudor taps into the “daring spirit” of its ambassadors for new Black Bay Chrono Pink Time+Tide
Tudor taps into Mar 28, 2024

Tudor taps into the “daring spirit” of its ambassadors for new Black Bay Chrono Pink

Tudor has launched a new Black Bay Chrono Pink inspired by ambassadors David Beckham’s Inter Miami CF and Jay Chou’s love for pink. It is not just a dial evolution, it is also presented on a five-link bracelet with a T-fit clasp – a first for the range. Unfortunately, Tudor claims “only a small number … ContinuedThe post Tudor taps into the “daring spirit” of its ambassadors for new Black Bay Chrono Pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hot-Take: Tudor Unveils A New Pink-Dialed Black Bay Chrono On A Five-Link Bracelet Fratello
Tudor Unveils Mar 28, 2024

Hot-Take: Tudor Unveils A New Pink-Dialed Black Bay Chrono On A Five-Link Bracelet

Less than two weeks out from Watches and Wonders, Tudor has jumped the starting gun with a pre-show introduction. This pink-dialed Black Bay Chrono is also the version of this model we’re seeing for the first time on the brand’s five-link (don’t call it Jubilee) bracelet. Its distinct shade of pink sets it aside from […] Visit Hot-Take: Tudor Unveils A New Pink-Dialed Black Bay Chrono On A Five-Link Bracelet to read the full article.

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