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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster Time+Tide
Urwerk auctions Apr 9, 2023

Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster

Not many watch brands can be proud of the fact that their watches are inspired by dinosaurs, but the deviant horologists over at Urwerk can claim at least two pieces that have drawn inspiration from these overgrown lizards – the UR-100 T-Rex and UR-105 T-Rex. It is the latter that serves as the base for … ContinuedThe post Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials Time+Tide
Bovet Apr 8, 2023

IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials

Despite the age of the watchmaking trade, there aren’t too many brands that can boast 200 years of history. Those that do often have insular development, still operating from within their small town beginnings and sometimes run by the original family. The story of Bovet is much more diverse, including a multitude of characters and … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The history of Bovet, a contemporary brand with impeccable old-world credentials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) at Watches & Wonders 2023 Revolution
Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Apr 5, 2023

Introducing the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) at Watches & Wonders 2023

At the end of Day 3 at Watches and Wonders 2023, Team Revolution wound up at Frederique Constant’s booth where Wei held a discussion with an esteemed panel of guests about Revolution’s latest limited edition collaboration: The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Future Past (Salmon). This watch is an amalgamation of Frederique Constant’s history-making […]

Australian Grand Prix – TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor spot with more Red Bull dominance, and I live out a childhood dream Time+Tide
TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor Apr 4, 2023

Australian Grand Prix – TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor spot with more Red Bull dominance, and I live out a childhood dream

Last weekend, the Australian Grand Prix took place in Melbourne’s picturesque surroundings of Albert Park. We got an incredible spectacle, too, with plenty of drama and one of the most confusing endings in recent times – reminiscent of that controversial night in Abu Dhabi. Despite the action-packed race, most people’s predictions of a Red Bull … ContinuedThe post Australian Grand Prix – TAG Heuer affirms top watch sponsor spot with more Red Bull dominance, and I live out a childhood dream appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On With the New Rolex Daytona Worn & Wound
Rolex Daytona Change Mar 30, 2023

Hands-On With the New Rolex Daytona

Change is hard, as they say. Particularly when the thing that requires it, wasn’t exactly broken in the first place. Rolex has found themselves in a near impossible situation of updating the near universally lauded 1165XX generation of the Daytona. A watch that’s recently found itself in a position it never really asked to be in, serving as the barometer of the second hand watch market and subsequently the subject of ire to many lamenting availability issues writ large at boutiques the world over. The watch itself, though? When considered at its initial MSRP upon introduction in 2016, which was $12,400 (or even its MSRP last year, which was $13,500), is pretty awesome. Not without fault, certainly, but a mighty fine chronograph to be sure and a total sweetheart on the wrist.  But of course, the Daytona was a rare bird to score at retail pricing, and judging it at aftermarket prices was a far murkier proposition. Still, there’s no doubting that this watch tapped into something deep, serving as the veritable poster child of the meteoric rise of the hype watch, and for good reason: it’s a great all around watch sitting on a load of heritage that includes some of the coolest figures of the past 50 years helping to inadvertently build the watch’s lore to unhealthy levels in today’s climate. While things have mercifully cooled off over the past 12 months, this is still largely the context in which Rolex is tasked with creating a new generation of Daytona, which they...

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908 Worn & Wound
Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Reveals New Formal Collection With 1908

Among the bevy of new Rolex watches released this year were a few unexpected watches, which isn’t a phrase we often mutter about the brand. We saw some unusually colorful dials (more on those later), and the launch of an entirely new formal collection called the Perpetual 1908, a reference to the brand’s name coinage by Wans Wilsdorf. With its introduction, the existing Cellini line has come to a close. The 1908 lives within the ‘classic’ range alongside the likes of the Oyster Perpetual and Sky-Dweller, but feels distinctly different from any existing line. Coming from a brand that’s been at the center of the sport watch craze over the past decade, the 1908 feels like a breath of fresh air. The Perpetual 1908 is a three hand time only watch offered only in 18k white or yellow gold. The trim case measures 39mm in diameter with a divided, partially fluted bezel framing the austere dial. Within resides the Rolex automatic caliber 7140, which gets a healthy amount of decoration worthy of being presented through an exhibition caseback. This is a new move from Rolex this year, appearing on both this watch, and the 60th anniversary platinum Daytona. The bridges of the 7140 receive a finish that the brand is calling “Rolex Côtes de Genève”, a re-interpretation of the classic technique seen often in Swiss movements. It differs from traditional Côtes de Genève in that it places a narrow polished groove between each of the parallel bands. Being a Rolex, there’s a...

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 28, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Perpetual 1908 Refs. 52508 and 52509

Due to its enviable position as the leading Swiss watch brand by revenue, Rolex tends to dominate headlines for even the smallest changes to its collections. So it’s even bigger news when the brand launches an entirely new collection, the Perpetual 1908, as it has on the opening day of this year’s Watches & Wonders. Named for the year that Hans Wilsdorf registered the Rolex trademark in Switzerland, the Perpetual 1908 is a slim, time-only watch with a display back that signals a renewed focus on the dress watch category for the giant of Geneva. Initial thoughts The Perpetual 1908 is a worthy replacement for the outgoing Cellini collection, which to me always felt like the forgotten child of the Rolex portfolio. Forced to use movements from their sportier siblings, the Cellini watches were never able to achieve the right proportions to be taken seriously as dress watches. The Perpetual 1908 debuts in four references in yellow and white gold, with the option of white or black satin finish dials; the black dials look especially good. The designs are atypical for Rolex, featuring a sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock, and a new handset. “Superlative Chronometer” drapes over the sub-seconds dial, calling to mind the Rolex Veriflat of the 1950s. Speaking of the Veriflat, the 1908 case measures just 9.5 mm thick thanks to the new cal. 7140. This is a big improvement over the Cellini watches, which were over 12 mm thick. The 1908’s dress watch credentials are bolstered fur...

VIDEO: New TAG Heuer Plasma timepieces presented at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
TAG Heuer Plasma timepieces presented Mar 28, 2023

VIDEO: New TAG Heuer Plasma timepieces presented at Watches and Wonders 2023

Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, discuss TAG Heuer’s new Plasma timepieces. The star timepiece is the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon, which is 44mm in case size and has 124 lab-grown diamonds. Alongside a few other Carrera timepieces launched at Watches and Wonders 2023 such […]

New dials, movements and clasps for the Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection Mar 28, 2023

New dials, movements and clasps for the Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection

Tudor have overhauled their fixed-bezel Black Bay watches in steel. The new collection features modern in-house movements and the T-fit clasp. All watches are available in blue, anthracite, or champagne, with or without diamond markers. Following last year’s Watches & Wonders blast of two-tone releases, it’s now time that the Tudor Black Bay fixed-bezel models … ContinuedThe post New dials, movements and clasps for the Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models Time+Tide
Rolex takes off Mar 27, 2023

Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models

The Rolex Sky-Dweller sees three new releases for Watches & Wonders 2023. A brand new blue-green dial colour is a first for any Rolex model. The movement gets an update, too, with the introduction of the calibre 9002. Rolex’s most complicated timepiece, the Sky-Dweller, has dropped three new versions for 2023’s Watches & Wonders, featuring … ContinuedThe post Rolex takes off with 3 new Sky-Dweller models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a prototype-inspired novelty Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni Mar 27, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a prototype-inspired novelty

The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a modern take on a 1936 reissue. The recycled eSteel case is decorated with a Brunito PVD coating, emulating tarnish. The 8-day power reserve is advertised on the dial, and provided by the hand-winding calibre P.5000. With a lot of focus put onto the Radiomir series this Watches & … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni is a prototype-inspired novelty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a masterclass in platinum Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Mar 27, 2023

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a masterclass in platinum

The newest Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor goes for a solid platinum case. If the case wasn’t enough platinum, the dial is also made from sandblasted platinum. The in-house calibre PF703 with a micro-rotor allows the whole watch to be just 7.8mm thick. Since Parmigiani Fleurier’s change of ownership and introduction of the Tonda PF … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a masterclass in platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up Mar 27, 2023

Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante

Parmigiani Fleurier follows up arguably their best 2022 release with a precious metal version in 18k rose gold The sleek GMT watch features a stunning hand-guilloché grain d’orge dial highlighted by 18k rose gold appliques Combining rattrapante and GMT functionality, the PF051 calibre may just be the greatest thing since sliced bread Causing a splash … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier dresses up the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model Time+Tide
Rolex Air-King Mar 24, 2023

The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model

When you think of Rolex, you don’t exactly think of quirky or unusual watches. Nowadays, the massive brand is known for its simple, surgically measured designs. Only one model remains the odd one out. The Air-King is probably the quirkiest Rolex piece currently in production, along with the Milgauss. It is one of the oldest … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Air-King: A history of the Crown’s most divisive model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Rado xical Part Mar 23, 2023

Petermann Bédat Introduces the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Owned Mar 18, 2023

The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China

A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...

The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers Time+Tide
Mar 16, 2023

The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers

Bamford London presents new Bamford B80 lineup Three expressions, seven configurations, all cased in titanium The Adventure, Heritage and Modern models have their own distinct dial expressions Most watch collectors are familiar with the name George Bamford and the Bamford Watch Department due to their pioneering efforts in watch customisation. But, these days, while Bamford … ContinuedThe post The new Bamford B80 collection offers colourful value-driven titanium daily wearers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365 SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 15, 2023

Citizen Introduces the Eco-Drive 365

A pioneer in solar-powered watches, Citizen has hundreds of such models in its catalogue. But the brand’s latest solar-powered offering, the Eco-Drive 365, is different. Distinctly 1970s in style, the oversized and chunky case is modelled on the Quartz E.F.A. of 1973, one of the brand’s first quartz watches. Named after its 365-day power reserve, the Eco-Drive 365 makes its debut in three variants: a pair of regular-production models in muted colours as well as a limited edition remake of the Quartz E.F.A. that celebrates the 1970s with its ruby-and-gilt dial. From left: The Eco-Drive 365 in steel, black-coated steel, and the limited edition with synthetic ruby markers Initial thoughts Most Eco-Drive watches are either chunky sports watches or conservative and plain. The Eco-Drive 365, on the other hand, is bold and retro. In other words, it is a different solar-powered watch. Almost over the top in style, the large case easily evokes the chunky forms typical of the 1970s. On its face the combination of 1970s design and a solar-powered movement might seem peculiar, but the styling makes this far more interesting than the typical Eco-Drive. Citizen would certainly do well to install the Eco-Drive movements in more watches like this. I’ve yet to see the Eco-Drive 365 in the metal, but assuming the build quality is on par with similarly priced Citizen watches, it should have good tactile feel, particularly for the US$500-ish price tag. And while it costs slightly mor...

MICRO MONDAYS: Blok Watches make a tough watch specially designed for kids Time+Tide
Mar 13, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: Blok Watches make a tough watch specially designed for kids

This may be the first time that I’m recommending a watch that you will never wear yourself, but the target demographic for Blok Watches don’t tend to do their own shopping. To put it simply, Blok make watches for children. There may not be any shortage of small quartz watches out there to fill stockings, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Blok Watches make a tough watch specially designed for kids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel Revolution
Louis Vuitton s New High Watchmaking Mar 10, 2023

In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel

After winning the GPHG’s Audacity Prize in 2021 with the Tambour Carpe Diem, Louis Vuitton unveiled today in Courchevel the new story of La Fabrique du Temps. Four high watchmaking timepieces have been developed with exceptional complications including two automata with 5 to 7 animations and sapphire innovations. Eleonor sat down with creative genius Michel […]

The Tutima x Revolution M2 Coastline Chronograph is a Modern Flieger That Hits all the Right Notes Revolution
Tutima Mar 9, 2023

The Tutima x Revolution M2 Coastline Chronograph is a Modern Flieger That Hits all the Right Notes

Watches with a military heritage or connection have always held the fascination of collectors and enthusiasts, due to their robust qualities and a love for the romanticized ideals of fighting for one’s country. And then there is a special class of chronographs used throughout history by German military pilots, also known as fliegers, that have […]

The Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold is Very Blue and Unexpectedly Gold, Kind Of Worn & Wound
Nomos watch will imagine Mar 9, 2023

The Tangente Neomatik Blue Gold is Very Blue and Unexpectedly Gold, Kind Of

I don’t have any way to scientifically prove this, but I’m willing to bet that most people, if asked to close their eyes and picture a Nomos watch, will imagine a Tangente of some kind in their head. Nomos has been around long enough to create a whole bunch of beautiful watches, and some that are not the Tangente have become icons (or close to it) in their own right. Every model family has its ardent supporters, from the Zurich world timers to the funky and colorful Tetras, you can find watch enthusiasts who are obsessive about each and every Nomos watch. But the Tangente remains the halo piece, the signature. It’s the one that you can most easily see all the things that make Nomos special within it. The Bauhaus influenced design, the playful use of color and shape, and, above all, a very specific type of casual elegance.  Perhaps understandably, Nomos has iterated almost endlessly on the Tangente over the years. I’m sure someone is keeping track of the many variants, case sizes, dial colors, and so forth, but that task is well beyond my own capabilities at this point. Suffice it to say, they’ve made a lot of Tangentes. And the new one, which they’ve dubbed the Neomatik Blue Gold, is a very nice looking one indeed, if not immediately easy to understand based on name alone. That’s OK. I might not have an encyclopedic knowledge of every Tangente ever released, but I’m a professional watch person, and you better believe I’m up to speed on the new one.  The...